Annapurna Circuit, Himalaya

Besisahar - Bhulbhule. Buses from Kathmandu and Pokhara bring you to Besi Sahar. If you arrive early, you can walk to smaller villages forward the route, like Khudi (6 km) or Bhulbule (8 km). Some people take a local bus to get there, but there is a very rewarding side trek through beautiful rice paddy fields bypassing most of the road. At the end of Besisahar the road plunges down to the river, but there is a little shortcut trail on the right hand leading directly to the river which you can cross on a little wooden bridge. After reaching the road you follow it for approximately for 30 min. and then the trail marked with red white signs starts to the right. Soon you will reach the suspension bridge and cross the Marsyangdi River. From there you still have to climb a lot to reach the highest point at 1030 m (200m above Besisahar) and then go a little down and reach Bhulbhule.

Bhulbhule - Bahundanda. Start from Bhulbhule on the main trail which is easy to follow. The road is on the other side of the river. When you pass Ngadi and cross on a huge suspension bride over the Ngadi Khola, the trail joins again the road. When the road dips to the river and you turn sharply to the right and take the road going up. After some time you miss the side road on the right and continue straight seeing already the houses of Bahundanda which are above a high ridge.

Bahundanda - Chamje. From Bahundanda the trail drops steeply to Syange at 1070 m. It can be very slippery when it is raining. Crossing the Marsyangdi River on a suspension bridge you follow the road to the village of Jagat. First it is ascending slightly, but then it climbs in serpentines to Jagat. You may try short cuts but beware of falling rocks. Then you have to climb through a beautiful and romantic forest 130 m more till the trail is getting nearly flat and you reach Chamje at 1400 m.

Chamje - Bagarchhap. Just after Chamje turn right and descend a very steep path, marked with red and white signs going down to the river and cross it
on a suspension bridge. After the bridge follow the trail passing a great waterfall. After some going up and down you reach the step climb to Tal (1675 m) (3-4 hours from Chamje). We make a trail verse crossing a wide, flat valley. The journey continues up and down to Dharapani at 1890 meters. And then after an hour you reach Bagarchhap at 2160 m.

Bagarchhap - Chame. From Bagarchhap it is just a short way to the first houses of Danaque. Follow the trail till the river and cross it over a little wooden bridge. After the
bridge there is a steep climb to the right for more than 350 m to Temang (2,5 hours from Bagarchhap). After Temang the trail goes with little ups and down to the first village of upper Thanchouk (1, 5 hours from Temang). Follow the road trail for about 1 hour to reach the old village of Koto with some nice old wooden houses. And then it's about half an hour to reach Chame.

Chame - Pisang. After Chame the trail continues through nice pine forest and after 25 min you reach Talekhu 2710 m. Just a few minutes after Talekhu a marked trail turns to the right into the forest. After three kilometers you rejoin the road and reach after 30 min the lodge settlement of Bhratang (2800 m, 2,5 hours from Chame).Then the trail returns to the pine forest, but after 20 min there starts the path carved out from the solid rock. The valley turns to the left in sort of polished enormous rock wall which is called Swarga Dwari or gateway to heaven. After that you cross the river on a suspension bridge and climb up in a dense forest. The trail crosses once the road to join it later; there are some red/white marks. After 1 hour after the bridge you reach the settlement of Dhukur Pokhari. At the very end of the village after a mani wall you can take the trail on the right with the red and white signs. This trail leads to the old village of Upper Pisang. Follow the trail to the river and cross it on one of the two bridges, then turn left. It will first be rather even, then gently but steadily climb up to upper Pisang (3400 m).

Pisang - Manang. Leaving Pisang, there are alternate trails north and south of the Marsyangdi River which meets up again at Mungji. The southern route by Hongde involves less climbing than the northern route via Ghyaru, though there are better views on the trail that follows the northern bank of the river. The trail of the northen route will pass above a beautiful emerald green little lake in half an hour after start. Then the alpine stile small mountain path goes mainly through small pine trees and shrubs. When you finally reach a long Mani wall turn to the right and take the long suspension bridge over the river. From here you can see some flags of Ghyaru high above on the hill. The trail climbs up in many serpentines near the electric poles which are going up in the direct line. After Ghyaru the marked trail leads along the fields. Continuing above many fields you will reach the village of Ngawal. From here you can go down to the river right away, or take the high trail which offers beautiful views. It starts just opposite the Ngawal Gompa leading through some nice meadows with a little river. After climbing a ridge you will find yourself on a plateau with on the right side the old Gompa. After that you have to descend a very steep trail. Finally you reach two huts with three big wooden benches for the porters. This is the junction with the lower trail from Ngawal. The trail continues for about 45 minutes through sparse and dry forest with small pine trees and prickly scrubs. Descending a big meadow you come to the lodges of Munji and join the big road trail, that leads you to Manang via Braka.

Manang - Khangsar – Shree Kharka. From Manang take the trail going to Thorong La west. Around 200 m after the end of the Manag village turn to the left (there are two blue/white marks at the begin of the trail). Follow the trail going west and cross the river Thorong Khola, which is coming from Thorong Phedi, on a bridge. climb up the hill and you will reach Khangsar and its entrance chorten. Im order to pass the dangerous path early in the morning the next day, you can go a little further from Kangsar to the new lodge Shree Kharka at 3900 m.

Shree Kharka –Tilicho base camp lodge – Tilicho Lake – return to Tilicho base camp lodge. Follow the trail that climbs up to the ridge (4700 m) and then passes along a very steep gravel slope with amazing rock statues on it. And all the time you will have the breathtaking Grande Barriere just before your eyes. Be careful about falling rocks and keep always some distance between the people of the group. Then the trail goes down to the Tilicho base camp lodge (4000 m). It takes 2,5 hours from Shree Kharka toTilicho base camp lodge. Walk up the big side moraine to get to Tilicho Lake. Be prepared for stormy and cold winds in this area after 12 AM.

Tilicho base camp lodge –Yak Kharka. Going back to Khangsar and before reaching it, turn to the high trail on the left side of the river Khangsar Khola. Then you reach the river Jharsang Khola and cross it on the bridge. Then the trail goes up to the lodges of Yak Kharka.

Yak Kharka - Thorong Phedi - High Camp. Just go up the trail (red /white marks) with some up and downs above the river. Soon you will see a suspension bridge. Even when the main trail seems to continue straight on take the trail left leading down to the suspension bridge. Cross the river and climb the trail passing by two little teashops. From here you can already see at the end of the valley the houses of Thorong Phedi. About 20 minutes after the teahouse you will have to cross for 15 min a landslide and stone fall area which begins after the signpost. After this landslide stretch the trail continues at about the similar level for 15 min and you reach the two lodges of Thorong Phedi at 4550m. If you have time and feeling well, you can climb more 400 m to the High Camp (around 1,5 hour).

High Camp - Thorong La (5416 m) - Muktinath / Ranipauwa
The trail climbs gently behind High Camp and after around 25 min you will reach a little iron bridge. After the bridge you have to climb a ridge, on the top you can see also Annapurna II. 25 min after the bridge you will come to a teahouse situated at around 5000 m. From there the trail continues steadily, but not steep going up in sheer endless turns. The trail up is marked with several black poles. It takes about 3-4 hours from the High Camp to the seddle. The descent to Muktinath is long and exhausting. The trail is now very clear and marked with black poles. It descends in barren dry and rocky terrain. Descending you will reach a big pasture making a perfect camping site around 4700m with a new water fountain and some 50m lower an other pasture with some ruins. After this pastures the trail descends in sharp turns steeply down to the 5 teahouses at around 4200 m. From the teahouses it is another long 1:30 hour way through pastures till you finally reaches the temple area of Muktinath. Your lodge will be another 15 -30 min further in the lodge settlement of Ranipauwa.

Muktinath / Ranipauwa - Lupra - Jomsom.
From Ranipauwa you have several possibilities to continue to Jomsom: along the road via Kagbeni (5 hours), noerthen trail via Dzong and Kagbeni (9,5 hours), southern trail via Lupra (8 hours). Here you'll find the third one. Go to the parking site of the jeeps and follow the road for about 150 m. Turn left at the sign post indicating Lubra. The trail is marked with blue/white signs. It climbs gently through the large pastures and is easy to follow. Reaching the ridge the trail continues just a little below of it. From the Lupra pass turn left to the big a visible trail going down south to Lubra. The trail will turn right after passing a big apple orchard. It will descend to the river, which you cross on the bridge. Note that in monsoon it might be impossible to cross it. It is 2 hours from Lubra to Jomsom/ Walk around long 45 min along the riverbed till you reach the main Kali Gandaki Valley. In the afternoon you will have a stormy wind blowing sand and little pebbles in right into you face.

Jomsom - Marpha. If you are in a hurry, you can reach Marpha in about 1, 5 hrs. by road. There is alternative way by the trail over Thini and Dhumba lake marked with red/white marks which takes 2,5 to 3 hrs. The trail isn't very easy to follow. The marks and description of the route will be useful. Firast you climb up to the Dhumba lake and then go down to Kali Gandaki river and Marpha. You can stay in a new lodge not reaching Marpha and visit Marpha from it.

Marpha - (Tukuche) - Kokhethanti. This is a very long journey (8 hours). In the middle you can make a stop in the beautiful Thakali village of Tukuche and walk the rest of the day on the road. But the new trail is much better than the old one which is now the road. The trail is going up and down twice on this route. First above Chimang and second time - on the way from Chokhopani to Sauru.

Kokhethanti - Titi Lake, Taglung - Kalopani. If you have enough time, this day round trip is highly recommended, as it will bring you to beautiful surroundings. It takes about 5 - 6 hours and the trail has red/white marks. The top of this forest trail is at 2700m thus 200m higher than Kokhethanti. Descending with some minor up and downs you'll find the village Titigaon and after it you will see Titi Lake. Then you return to Kali Gandaki in the area of Chhoyo village. There you can cross it and choose where to stay: in Kalopani or Lete.

Kalopani /Lete - Ghasa. This marvellous jungle walk on a soft forest trail marked with red / white marks takes 4 hours. Most of the time the trail goes with ups and downs high above the road. One time it descends to the road at Ghumaune, then returns to the forest. The second time it returns to the road just before Kaiku, a little village. From here it's about 20 minutes walk by the road to Ghasa.

Ghasa - Tatopani. This route via villages Pairothapla, Kopchepani, Bhalebas and Dana goes up and down several times and takes 8 hours. But you can stay in Dana to have rest and not to reach Tatopani tired in the evening when it is difficult to get a place in a lodge. It's 2,5 hours from Dana to Tatopani. This trail avoids the road and only last 500 meters are on the road.

Tatopani - Ghorepani. An alternative to the bus drive is another 1-2 day route Ghorepani. As Ghorepani is on 2860m, this means climbing 1670m. This can be done in a very long and hard day or you stay at Ghara (1700m), Shikha (1935m) or Chitre (2390m). To go to Ghorepani, go down to the road and cross first the Kali Gandaki then the Ghar Khola on the suspension bridges. After the second bridge start climbing up the valley.

Poon Hill, Ghorepani - Naya Pul. Most people climb up the Poon Hill to watch Daulagiri and also the sunrise on the Himalaya rage in the north with the Annapurnas and the Machapucharean. This takes about 2 hours. Then you can go two ways from Ghorepani to Naya Pul where you can take a taxi or the bus to Pokhara: via Tadapani and Ghandrung or via Banthanti, Ulleri and Birethani. It's posible to walk both ways for one day, but it's a rather long way, so you can stop in the middle of the trek.