Mountain Breithorn (4 164 m / 13 661 ft)

The Breithorn is considered the most easily climbed 4,000 m Alpine peak. This is due to the Klein Matterhorn cable car which takes climbers to over 3,820 m (12,700 ft) from Zermatt for a starting point. The standard route (SSW flank) is from the Italian side of the mountain (the south side) and continues over a glacial plateau before climbing to the summit on a 35 degree snow slope. However, inexperienced mountaineers may run into severe difficulty if caution is not taken near cornices or in bad weather. For experienced climbers wanting more of a challenge, the half traverse of the Breithorn crest is another option. This ascent is easy to combine with climbs to some other mountains in the area - to traverse the mountain from one hut to the other, or combine it with the ascent of other nearby summits such as the Pollux or Castor.

A mountain with several subsidiary peaks, all located east of the main summit: the Central Breithorn, the Eastern Breithorn, the Breithornzwillinge and the Roccia Nera. The main summit is sometimes distinguished by the name Western Breithorn. The mountain is mostly glaciated. If it were not for the Klein Matterhorn cable car, which whisks climbers and skiers up to over 12,700 feet, The Breithorn would be a long climb by any route. But the lift has turned the SSW Flank route on the Breithorn into one of the most climbed 4000 meter peaks of the Alps. This is a snow and glacier route. The primary challenges are those normally associated with high altitude climbing, that is fitness, pace, and basic crampon technique. In poor weather, or when avalanche hazard exists on this side of the peak, the climb takes on another character, and lives have been lost in these conditions.

Located in the Pennine Alps on the border between Valais, Switzerland and the Aosta Valley in Italy, approximately halfway between the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa and east of the Theodul Pass

By train from Geneva / Zurich in Zermatt, either by car to the parking lot near Zermatt and from this point by taxi-electric car. By car or train from Milano airport to Courmayeur, then to Cervinia.

Thanks to a cable car from Zermatt that takes you to just 300 metres below the summit, the Breithorn (4164m) offers an opportunity to ski above 4000 metres with minimal effort.
The ski down is almost as cruisey as the trip up — but as with all glacier skiing at any time of year (and especially in autumn), skiers are highly recommended to hire a local guide and have solid glacier travel and crevasse rescue skills before attempting this route.

 

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Guided Tours

• Alpine Guides
• Mont Blanc Mountain Guide

• http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breithorn
• http://www.peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=10034