Midnight Lightning, Columbia Boulder

The Bouldering in Yosemite Valley is epic. Although it may seem futile bouldering in a place surrounded by such large granite walls, the valley still has the best granite bouldering in California. Everything from wicked slab, crack climbing, dihedrials and micro edges... this place has it all. For most climbers, Yosemite is the best place on Earth," says 30-year-old Tommy Caldwell, one of the most accomplished rock climbers on the planet. "The rock is perfect, the walls are big, and the place has so much history." As park visitors flock to the Sierra Nevada's granite giants, they also pay their respects to renowned Midnight Lightning, located on the massive Columbia Boulder at Camp 4. MIDNIGHT LIGHTNING'S LEGACY "Camp 4 and Midnight Lightning are tremendously important to the cultural history of Yosemite National Park," notes Yosemite park ranger Scott Gediman. "Not only do they represent the origin of the sport of rock climbing, they serve as magnets for visitors from all over the world."

Right in Camp 4. Look for the chalked lightning bolt on the rock. You can't miss it. Start on the series of polished opening crimps, fire a right hand up to a good undercling crimp, move the left hand up, and then get ready to fly out to the Lightning Bolt hold with your feet kicking in the air (although if you're over 6ft. or so it can be done as a static move). The bottom moves are powerful but it's the infamous mantle that will throw most suitors back down into the dust. Trust your spotter and believe...

Rated a V8, Midnight Lightning may not be the hardest problem (ratings cap at V15), but it's nothing to scoff at. "Climbing Midnight Lightning is equivalent to running a 4.5-minute mile," notes Rich. "To this day, only a small percentage of climbers will ever be able to savor the view from the top." Most difficult move on Midnight lightning is a "spider-monkey swing 15 feet (4.6 metres) off the ground. The climber must suspend himself by the fingertips of his left hand, swing around a ledge of rock and propel himself far enough up, about four feet, to grab a precarious fingertip hold with his right hand. To do that he has to create momentum from stillness. All you need is chalk, climbing shoes, crash pad and good spotter!

Rated a V8, Midnight Lightning may not be the hardest problem (ratings cap at V15), but it's nothing to scoff at. "Climbing Midnight Lightning is equivalent to running a 4.5-minute mile," notes Rich. "To this day, only a small percentage of climbers will ever be able to savor the view from the top." Most difficult move on Midnight lightning is a "spider-monkey swing 15 feet (4.6 metres) off the ground. The climber must suspend himself by the fingertips of his left hand, swing around a ledge of rock and propel himself far enough up, about four feet, to grab a precarious fingertip hold with his right hand. To do that he has to create momentum from stillness. All you need is chalk, climbing shoes, crash pad and good spotter!

First ascent or route’s setter:	??/1/2016
Route length:	N/A
Maximum pitch’s length:	30 m / 98 ft
Avg. climbing time:	Please update
Essential quickdraws number:	N/A
Verticality:	Negative
Climbing school presence:	No
Sun exposition:	All the Day
Age Restrictions:	At least 21 years old
Descent Route:	Another route.
Soloing:	Yes

First sent by Ron Kauk who worked it for over two months in 1978 with fellow hardman John Bachar, this line up the Columbia Boulder stands as a true milestone in modern rock climbing.
The first female ascent of Midnight Lightning was by Lynn Hill, though she used a toprope to suss the moves, but this was before the days of crashpads as we know them today. Little Lynnie started trying it in 1995 and completed it in 1998.
The problem had been easily identified by a chalk lightning bolt draw by John Bachar in 1978 while attempting the problem with John Yablonski and Ron Kauk. In May 2013, the iconic chalk lightning bolt was scrubbed off the face of the boulder. The bolt was re-drawn in the same location a few days later.

 

First sent by Ron Kauk who worked it for over two months in 1978 with fellow hardman John Bachar, this line up the Columbia Boulder stands as a true milestone in modern rock climbing.
The first female ascent of Midnight Lightning was by Lynn Hill, though she used a toprope to suss the moves, but this was before the days of crashpads as we know them today. Little Lynnie started trying it in 1995 and completed it in 1998.
The problem had been easily identified by a chalk lightning bolt draw by John Bachar in 1978 while attempting the problem with John Yablonski and Ron Kauk. In May 2013, the iconic chalk lightning bolt was scrubbed off the face of the boulder. The bolt was re-drawn in the same location a few days later.

 

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