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Expedition Alpamayo (5947 m), Artesonraju (6025 m) Huascaran (6768 m) More 12 photos

Expedition Alpamayo (5947 m), Artesonraju (6025 m) Huascaran (6768 m)

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Activity type: Mountaineering
Activity level: Challenging
Availability:

10 May 2020 - 10 Sep 2020

Duration: 23 Day(s) / Tour with flexible start dates
Price: from $3550 / Negotiable

Full description

About Alpamayo Peak: The pyramid shaped Alpamayo is considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. The ascent toward the peak is very steep and the majority of it is a technical climb. This mountain should only be attempted by those who are well acclimatized and who have summited of other high peaks. From one side Alpamayo is an almost perfect pyramid, covered with enormous ice shelves. The other face, the trapezoidal southwest wall, is even more beautiful. All of the Cordillera Blanca mountain range is protected by Huascarán National Park, a paradise of snowcapped peaks. The park also includes the peaks of Huandoy and Huascarán (the highest mountain in Peru), as well as 663 glaciers, 269 lakes, some 42 rivers, as well as 33 archaeological sites.

About Artesonraju Peak: Artesonraju (6,025 m) is one of the approximately 50 peaks of the Cordillera Blanca known especially for its exceptional settings for mountaineering. Pyramidal and completely covered in ice and snow all year, this mountain of unequalled beauty is situated between the two gorges of the Santa Cruz Massif to the north and the Parón to the south. It’s frequently considered the iconic mountain in the Paramount pictures introduction.

From its high plateau alongside the Paron Gorge, it is 1,025 meters to the peak. It can usually be climbed in 8-12 hours round-trip. According to the International French Adjectival System (IFAS), it’s categorized as TD+: very difficult +, on the route of the South Ridge, and D: Difficult, via the “normal” route.

Artesonraju offers two primary ascent routes: The first runs through the North Edge, born in the Santa Cruz Gorge, while the second rises via the southeast face from Parón Lake, at the end of the gorge of the same name. This last route is very technically demanding, requiring advanced experience in ice climbing. You conquer a slope of 1,200 meters with a gradient that varies between 45 and 55 degrees, sometimes surpassing 60 degrees.

About Huascarán Peak: Huascarán is the highest peak in Peru. This mountain has two summits: Huascarán North (6655 m) and the main summit, Huascarán South (6768 m). Many climbers dream of reaching this high summit of 6,768 meters. Technically, the climb is not difficult, nevertheless, due to its elevation and risk of avalanches, it is a serious climb.

The mountain offers multiple routes to arrive at the highest point in Peru. In any case, anyone attempting this peak should be well acclimatized to altitude before venturing to these huge glaciated mountains.

Observation: Huascarán South Summit (6.768 m) The conditions on all mountains change every year; particularly since the glacier between the first and second camps is receding. Accordingly, some years it is a challenge to get from High Camp 1 to High Camp 2 due to the crevasses and the large avalanches that can fall in the chute. An ascent of Huascarán is, without a doubt, one of the highlights of mountaineering in the Andes.

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Price includes

  • Acclimatization Tour
  • Peruvian qualified and experienced local guide/s
  • Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park
  • Cooks and helpers
  • Porters
  • All meals during the tour
  • Donkey driver and donkeys
  • Camping tents (2 persons)
  • Kitchen equipment
  • Transportation as tour schedule / Huaraz
  • Pick up at the airport in Lima to the Hotel
  • Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station
  • Bus tickets Huaraz/Lima, executive service in public bus-Movil Tours or Cruz del Sur
  • Hotel Kamana 1 nights in Lima
  • Hotel Casa Blaca 6 nights in Huaraz

Not included in price

  • Travel accident and health insurance
  • International flights to Lima / Peru round trip
  • Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure
  • Exit tax at the airport in Lima
  • Travel accident and health insurance
  • Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
  • Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz
  • Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)
  • Personal expenses
  • Tips

Guide

Eric Albino Lliuya Peru Expeditions

 Eric Albino Lliuya Peru Expeditions 

29 years, Peru

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Mountaineering, Hiking, Rock Climbing, Ice Climbing, Backcountry Skiing
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Biography About Eric Albino Lliuya a Mountain Guide from Peru

Eric Albino Lliuya

Professional guide by: AGOMP

E-mail: office@peru-expeditions.org

WhatsApp Eric Albino Lliuya 0051 943081066 - | LinkedIn |

He speaks: Spanish, Quechua, English, and some French. Currently he is learning German also.

General Sales Manager, mountaineer, tour organizer and mountain guide of Peru Expeditions Tours EIRL

Eric was born in 1984 in Unchus viallge - Huaraz, Peru. Very early he was inspired by the mountains from trips taken with his father and grandfather. At 18, he began working as a trekking and mountain guide and support his father Juventino with tourism. Juventino is a Mountain Guide AGMP-UIAGM from Huaraz, Peru.

Eric is responsible and organized groups trekking and mountaineering in the area of logistics and security in the Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Huayhuash and South America.

| CV = Curriculum vitae

Details:

• Born 01. July . 1984

• Lives in Huaraz, Ancash - Peru

Education:

High School 2002 Jorge Basadre Grohmann in Huaraz

Education/studied Centro de Estudios de Alta Montaña (CEAM), School of Mountain Guides from 2006 to 2008

Languages:

• English language course intermediate VII (2006 to 2008), from Monday to Friday from 08:00 Hrs to 9:30 Hrs in the Casa de Guias - School of Mountain Guides, Parque Ginebra 28G - Huaraz city, Ancash - Perú

• German language course Module 1 to 4 (from 17 October 2011 to 26 March 2012), from Monday to Thursday from 08:15 Hrs to 12:15 Hrs in the VHS-Bildungszentrum school, Schlossergasse 8-10 Frankenthal city - Germany

Associacions:

• Member of DAV Summit Club - Deutsche Alpenverein since 2016, application area worldwide, especially expeditions, expedition-like things and training courses

• 'Since 2013 member of the Official Peruvian Mountain Guides Association and instructor of the mountain courses (AGOMP) in Peru

• On 15th. October 2016, take the first aid training course in Schladming - Austria with the Berg- und Schiführer Steiermark - IVBV - UIAGM - IFMGA

Working Experience:

• 2005 - 2016 mountain guide and tour leader of "Peru Expeditions Tours" and different

• A tour leader by BergSpechte Mr. Edi Koblmüller travel agency from Austria (2005-2017)

• A tour leader by Suedamerika Tours Mr. Thomas Wilken travel agency from Germany (2009-2017)

• A tour leader by 7 Summits Club 7 Summits Club Mrs. Lubmila and Mr. Alexander travel agency from Russia (2015-2017)

• A tour leader by AndeanVenture Mr. Christian Schöttle travel agency from Germany (2014-2017)

• A tour leader by Explore-Share Mr. Nicolas Vandepaer community platform from Belgium/Argentina (2013-2017)

• A tour leader by AlcostaRica Mr. Armin Liedl travel agency from Costa Rica(2006-2017)

• A tour leader by Mountaineering Association of Vojvodina Mr. Milivoj Erdeljan Association from Serbia (2013-2017)

• A tour leader by Eco Field trips Mr. Ronen Raz travel agency from Israel (2005-2017)

• A tour leader by BergHorizonte Mr. Christian Schubert travel agency from Germany (2016-2017)

• A tour leader by ProjectCordillera Mr. Sam Williams travel agency from England (2016-2017)

Projects:

• Peaks 150 Team: Mammut-Project/Huascarán - Successful expedition year 2012 Huascaran North Summit

• Rescue organization recovery of bodies September,2, 2015 Huandoy Sur, Peru. Alexander Ruchkin and Vjacheslav Ivanov died on the descent on Huandoy Sur South face

Journeys:

• Journey through the Andean countries of South America '2005 / 2017'

• Since 2005 to 2017 guiding tours-expeditions in Ecuador, Bolivia, Chile & Argentina

• On 2011 year first visit to Europe and experience in the Alps countries as Germany, Austria, Italy, Switzerland, etc. current location or visit is in Europe from 15th September to 13rd December 2016

General Sales Manager of: Peru Expeditons Tours

Mountaineering experience in his life

Expert Mountain Guide from Huaraz, Peru.

Eric is a guide as well sport climber, he is traveling often in South Americain and Alps of Europa for climbing and guiding and organizing trips-expedition mountaineering. He counts with more than 50 lead-expeditions to the comercial high altitude mountaineers and guidig in the Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Huayhuash and including other countries in South America as well in the alps. he led since 2005 the company Peru Expeditons Tours together with his father Juventino Martin Albino Caldua a mountain guide member of AGMP-UIAGM, in Peru his travel agency is leader in professionally managed expeditions in the Cordillera Banca and Huayhuash.

South America

Peru:

» Nevado Alpamayo (5947 m)

» Nevado Huascaran Sur (6768 m) normal route and route Escudo (direct and technical sign-route ), MAMMUT Project 150 years aniversary Huascaran North Peak (6655 m)

» Nevado Tocllaraju (6034 m) normal route & record Climbing west side in 2 days

» Nevado Ranrapalca (6162 m) new route south valley Cojub

» Nevado Urus central (5495 m) new direct route south

» Nevado Chopicalqui (6354 m)

» Nevado Palcaraju central (6264 m)

» Nevado Ishinca (5530 m)

» Nevado Vallunaraju (5686 m)

» Nevado Pisco (5752 m) normal route and direct route South Face

» Nevado Diablo Mudo (5300 m) in the Huayhuash

» Nevado Maparaju (5325 m)

» Nevado Andavite (5518 m)

Ecuador:

» Volcano Chimborazo (6310 m)

» Volcano Cotopaxi (5897 m)

» Volcano Cayambe (5790 m)

» Volcano Iliniza Norte (5126 m)

» Volcano Antisana (5758 m)

» Volcano Guagua Pichincha (4784 m)

» Volcano Rucupichincha (4698 m)

» Volcano Pasochoa (4199 m) and others.

Bolivia:

» Mountain Condoriri summit "Cabeza de Condor" Direct Route (5648m)

» Mountain Huayna Potosi normal route (6088 m)

» Volcano Sajama (6542 m)

» Volcano Acotango (6052 m)

» Volcano Parinacota (6348 m)

» Mountain Illimani (6462 m)

» Pequeño Alpamayo (5410 m) direct route

» Cerro Kinkillosa (5008 m)

» Cerro Austria (5321 m)

Chile:

» The highest volcano in the world Ojos del Salados (6893 m)

» San Pedro de Atacama - Exploring the city (2440 m)

» San Pedro de Atacama - Tour to Valle de Luna (2500 m)

» San Pedro de Atacama - Tour Exploring Guatin Canyon (3500 m)

» San Pedro de Atacama - Exploring Geyser "El Tatio" (4300 m). Highest geysers in the world

» San Pedro de Atacama - Climbing Lascar Volcano (5592 m)

» San Pedro de Atacama - Climbing Toco Volcano (5604 m)

» San Pedro de Atacama - Exploring Pukará de Quitor (2800 m) » City Copiapo - After breakfast bus transfer to Laguna Santa Rosa (3600 m)

» Laguna Santa Rosa - Transfer Laguna Verde (4400 m)

» Laguna Verde - Climbing Cerro San Francisco (6018 m)

» Laguna Verde - Transfer Refugio Atacama (5200 m) - Climbing Cerro Vicuñas (6067 m)

» Camp Atacama - Trekking up to Refugio Tejos (5820 m) - Return to Camp Atacama

» Camp Atacama - Trekking up to Refugio Tejos (5820 m)

» Region Putre - Cerro Surunche (3878 m)

» Region Putre - Hike to Lake Chungara (4600 m)

» Region Putre - Akklimatisierungstouren - Jurasi (4800 m)

» Region Putre - Cerro Guane Guane (5050 m)

» Region Putre - Village Guallatire Summit (5400 m)

Argentina:

» Aconcagua up to 6850M (not summit due to bad weather)

In the Alps / Europe

Italy:

» September / 2015 - Ortler via Hintergrat (3905 m), Südtirol

» 2015 / 2016 - Verschiedene Kletterrouten am Gardasee (Aprodite / Porci del Ai, Moonbears, Luna de argentea, Fiaba del Bosco, Il mercurio serpegiante, Il Scalette del Indria

» April / 2016 - Klettern Tannheimer - Via Anita

» April / 2016 - Klettern Gindlkante

Austria:

» April / 2012 - Schneeberg (1051 m)

» October / 2015 - Großes Wiesbachhorn via Kaindlgrat (3564 m)

» October / 2015 - Wildspitze über Breslauer Hütte (3770 m)

» May / 2016 - Skitour – Großglockner (3798 m)

» October / 2016 - Schönfeldspitze (2653 m)

Germany:

» April / 2012 - Zugspitze (2962 m)

» September / 2015 – Watzmannüberschreitung (2713 m)

Switzerland:

» October / 2015 - Versuch Matterhorn bis 4200 - Abbruch wegen Wetter

» September / 2016 - Cavadiras Südkante (2948 m)

Croatia:

» November / 2016 - National Park Paklenica: Rock Climbing different routes

Slovenia:

» November / 2016 - Triglav (2864 m), via Tomineksteig and Bambergerweg

| TRAVELED SO FAR FOLLOWING COUNTRIES FOR PHOTOGRAPHING, MOUNTAINEERING AND CLIMBING

Destinations:

Europe: Germany, Austria, Italy, France, Spain, Holland, Italy, Switzerland

Asia: Not yet visited this place

Africa: Not yet visited this place

America: Canada

South America: Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile, Argentina

Central America: Not yet visited this place

Oceania: Not yet visited this place

Antarctica: Not yet visited this place

More info: https://www.peru-expeditions.org/history-biography-about-eric-albino-lliuya.php

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Day 1

Flight to Peru. Bus tu Huaraz
Flight from Europe or the country of origin (USA or Canada), etc. Arrival in Lima - Transfer Hotel the large city in South America; population approximately 11 million. Rest or explore the city on your own. This ride follows the Pan American highway north across the impressive Pacific coastal desert. Continuing toward higher terrain, we pass through the Cordillera Negra (Black Range) at Conococha Pass (4020 m) into the Santa Valley and Huaraz (3100m). Once across the pass, you’ll see a charming view of the mountains of the Cordillera Blanca, without a doubt some of the most impressive scenery in the world. You can also fly via LCPERU - flight duration 50 minutes. Overnight Hotel (-/-/-)

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Day 7

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Day 8

Moraine Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo High Camp (5300 m)
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Day 9

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Day 10

Reserve or Rest day in Alpamayo Base Camp (4300 m)
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Day 11

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Day 12

Taullipampa Base Camp - Climb to Artesonraju Moraine Camp
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Day 13

Artesonraju Moraine Camp - Summit Artesonraju (6025 m) - Des
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Day 14

Reserve day.
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Day 15

Taullipampa Base Camp - Trekking Descent to the village of C
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Day 16

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Day 17

Huaraz - Transfer to Musho (3000 m) - Trekking to Huascarán
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Day 18

Base Camp Huascarán - Ascend to High Camp I (5350 m)
Today we‘ll climb to High Camp 1. Porters will help us carry our camping equipment and food . From this point, the southern and northern peaks of Huascarán seem close enough to touch. Dinner and lodging in tents on the glacier. At this altitude, the temperature at night falls to as low as -13°C. Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

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Day 19

High Camp I - Ascend to High Camp II (Garganta, 6000 m)
Very early this morning we continue to climb over the steep section of the glacier, with crevasses, avalanches in the chutes, and an area of icefall with 50° faces requiring ice climbing. We expect to find changes to the rugged glacier because every year with the retreat of the glacier, the conditions change with regard to crevasses, bridges or new avalanches. Our porters accompany us to Camp 2 in La Garganta (“The Throat“), the saddle between the North Summit (6655 m) and the South Summit (6768 m.) We sleep in tents on the glacier. Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

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Day 20

High Camp II (Garganta, 6000 m) - Ascent to the Summit.
Summit day! Very early this morning we begin the ascent to the South Summit (6,768 m). The route leads abruptly up, continues through many crevasses and avalanche zones until we arrive at the flat summit ridge. From here you can see all of the Cordillera Blanca, including Alpamayo to the north. From this high point we see most of the most important mountains of the range. The unforgettable view from the summit makes us forget all our effort to get here. After enjoying the summit and taking pictures, we begin our descent back to High Camp II at the back of the gorge. If everyone still feels fine, we can descend to Base Camp (weather permitting) or stay in High Camp II. Rest one hour and begin the descent to Base Camp. Dinner and lodging in Base Camp. Time required: ascent: 6-7 hours; descent to High Camp II: 3-4 hours; Descent from High Camp II to Base Camp: 3-4 hours. Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

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Day 21

Base Camp - Trekking to Musho - transfer Huaraz
Our last day on the expedition. Early in the morning the mule/burro drivers arrive, and after the baggage is loaded, we descend to the village of Musho, a walk of 3-4 hours. From here our private transport will be waiting to take us to Huaraz, our final destination. Here we say goodbye to our local workers, and have a complementary dinner at the home of Juventino Albino Caldua - a special dish called Pachamanca. Lodging in the hotel. Overnight Hotel (B/L/-)

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Day 22

Transfer to the bus terminal in Huaraz for the trip to Lima.
Options: Flight or bus.With Bus 8 Hrs 400km or Flights are via LC-Peru and last 50 minutes. Overnight on Bus (B/-/-)

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Day 23

Stay in Lima - transfer to the airport
Free day; depending on your departure schedule. Return to Europe or your country of origin. Overnight flight (B/-/-).

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Last update: 05 Dec 2017

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