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Created: Eric Albino Lliuya...
Last update: 05 Dec 2017
Expedition Nevado Alpamayo the most beautiful mountain in the world
| Activity type: | Mountaineering |
| Activity level: | Challenging |
| Availability: |
10 May 2020 - 10 Sep 2020 |
| Duration: | 6 Day(s) / Tour with flexible start dates |
| Price: | from $900 / Negotiable |
Full description
About Alpamayo Peak: The pyramid shaped Alpamayo is considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. The ascent toward the peak is very steep and the majority of it is a technical climb. This mountain should only be attempted by those who are well acclimatized and who have summited of other high peaks. From one side Alpamayo is an almost perfect pyramid, covered with enormous ice shelves. The other face, the trapezoidal southwest wall, is even more beautiful. All of the Cordillera Blanca mountain range is protected by Huascarán National Park, a paradise of snowcapped peaks. The park also includes the peaks of Huandoy and Huascarán (the highest mountain in Peru), as well as 663 glaciers, 269 lakes, some 42 rivers, as well as 33 archaeological sites.
About Nevado Alpamayo Routes:Alpamayo should not be underestimated. Lessthan half of the climbers coming to the BC make it to the top.
NB: After the July-2003-icefall the conditions in Alapmayo SW-face seem to have changed.
Ferrari: AD+, 10m 70°, 8 pitches 45°, 1 pitch 55°. 5-7h.
Frech Direct: D+ 50°-65°, 10 pitches. 6-8h
Start near the lowermost part of the bergschrund (1½h). After 1/3 of the ascent follow the runnel leading to the top.
North Ridge: D The route of the first ascent. Nowadays unusual due to the higher objective risks. The ridge can be gained from Laguna Jancarurish or by traversing from the col.
Descent: Rappel down the way you came respectively the Ferrari Route (snow stakes most times in situ).
Price includes
- Peruvian qualified and experienced local guide/s
- All meals during the tour
- Camping tents (2 persons)
- Porters Nevado Alpamayo (2 pax 1 porter)
- Kitchen equipment
- Cook
- Donkey driver and donkeys
- Transportation as tour schedule / Huaraz
Not included in price
- Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
- Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure
- Travel accident and health insurance
- Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz
- Acclimatization Tour
- Hotel San Sebastián 4 nights in Huaraz
- Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)
- Tips
Guide
Eric Albino Lliuya Peru Expeditions
29 years, Peru
Guide
0
Mountaineering, Hiking, Rock Climbing, Ice Climbing, Backcountry Skiing
Verified Profile
- Email address
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Biography About Eric Albino Lliuya a Mountain Guide from Peru
Eric Albino Lliuya
Professional guide by: AGOMP
E-mail: office@peru-expeditions.org
WhatsApp Eric Albino Lliuya 0051 943081066 - | LinkedIn |
He speaks: Spanish, Quechua, English, and some French. Currently he is learning German also.
General Sales Manager, mountaineer, tour organizer and mountain guide of Peru Expeditions Tours EIRL
Eric was born in 1984 in Unchus viallge - Huaraz, Peru. Very early he was inspired by the mountains from trips taken with his father and grandfather. At 18, he began working as a trekking and mountain guide and support his father Juventino with tourism. Juventino is a Mountain Guide AGMP-UIAGM from Huaraz, Peru.
Eric is responsible and organized groups trekking and mountaineering in the area of logistics and security in the Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Huayhuash and South America.
| CV = Curriculum vitae
Details:
• Born 01. July . 1984
• Lives in Huaraz, Ancash - Peru
Education:
High School 2002 Jorge Basadre Grohmann in Huaraz
Education/studied Centro de Estudios de Alta Montaña (CEAM), School of Mountain Guides from 2006 to 2008
Languages:
• English language course intermediate VII (2006 to 2008), from Monday to Friday from 08:00 Hrs to 9:30 Hrs in the Casa de Guias - School of Mountain Guides, Parque Ginebra 28G - Huaraz city, Ancash - Perú
• German language course Module 1 to 4 (from 17 October 2011 to 26 March 2012), from Monday to Thursday from 08:15 Hrs to 12:15 Hrs in the VHS-Bildungszentrum school, Schlossergasse 8-10 Frankenthal city - Germany
Associacions:
• Member of DAV Summit Club - Deutsche Alpenverein since 2016, application area worldwide, especially expeditions, expedition-like things and training courses
• 'Since 2013 member of the Official Peruvian Mountain Guides Association and instructor of the mountain courses (AGOMP) in Peru
• On 15th. October 2016, take the first aid training course in Schladming - Austria with the Berg- und Schiführer Steiermark - IVBV - UIAGM - IFMGA
Working Experience:
• 2005 - 2016 mountain guide and tour leader of "Peru Expeditions Tours" and different
• A tour leader by BergSpechte Mr. Edi Koblmüller travel agency from Austria (2005-2017)
• A tour leader by Suedamerika Tours Mr. Thomas Wilken travel agency from Germany (2009-2017)
• A tour leader by 7 Summits Club 7 Summits Club Mrs. Lubmila and Mr. Alexander travel agency from Russia (2015-2017)
• A tour leader by AndeanVenture Mr. Christian Schöttle travel agency from Germany (2014-2017)
• A tour leader by Explore-Share Mr. Nicolas Vandepaer community platform from Belgium/Argentina (2013-2017)
• A tour leader by AlcostaRica Mr. Armin Liedl travel agency from Costa Rica(2006-2017)
• A tour leader by Mountaineering Association of Vojvodina Mr. Milivoj Erdeljan Association from Serbia (2013-2017)
• A tour leader by Eco Field trips Mr. Ronen Raz travel agency from Israel (2005-2017)
• A tour leader by BergHorizonte Mr. Christian Schubert travel agency from Germany (2016-2017)
• A tour leader by ProjectCordillera Mr. Sam Williams travel agency from England (2016-2017)
Projects:
• Peaks 150 Team: Mammut-Project/Huascarán - Successful expedition year 2012 Huascaran North Summit
• Rescue organization recovery of bodies September,2, 2015 Huandoy Sur, Peru. Alexander Ruchkin and Vjacheslav Ivanov died on the descent on Huandoy Sur South face
Journeys:
• Journey through the Andean countries of South America '2005 / 2017'
• Since 2005 to 2017 guiding tours-expeditions in Ecuador, Bolivia, Chile & Argentina
• On 2011 year first visit to Europe and experience in the Alps countries as Germany, Austria, Italy, Switzerland, etc. current location or visit is in Europe from 15th September to 13rd December 2016
General Sales Manager of: Peru Expeditons Tours
Mountaineering experience in his life
Expert Mountain Guide from Huaraz, Peru.
Eric is a guide as well sport climber, he is traveling often in South Americain and Alps of Europa for climbing and guiding and organizing trips-expedition mountaineering. He counts with more than 50 lead-expeditions to the comercial high altitude mountaineers and guidig in the Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Huayhuash and including other countries in South America as well in the alps. he led since 2005 the company Peru Expeditons Tours together with his father Juventino Martin Albino Caldua a mountain guide member of AGMP-UIAGM, in Peru his travel agency is leader in professionally managed expeditions in the Cordillera Banca and Huayhuash.
South America
Peru:
» Nevado Alpamayo (5947 m)
» Nevado Huascaran Sur (6768 m) normal route and route Escudo (direct and technical sign-route ), MAMMUT Project 150 years aniversary Huascaran North Peak (6655 m)
» Nevado Tocllaraju (6034 m) normal route & record Climbing west side in 2 days
» Nevado Ranrapalca (6162 m) new route south valley Cojub
» Nevado Urus central (5495 m) new direct route south
» Nevado Chopicalqui (6354 m)
» Nevado Palcaraju central (6264 m)
» Nevado Ishinca (5530 m)
» Nevado Vallunaraju (5686 m)
» Nevado Pisco (5752 m) normal route and direct route South Face
» Nevado Diablo Mudo (5300 m) in the Huayhuash
» Nevado Maparaju (5325 m)
» Nevado Andavite (5518 m)
Ecuador:
» Volcano Chimborazo (6310 m)
» Volcano Cotopaxi (5897 m)
» Volcano Cayambe (5790 m)
» Volcano Iliniza Norte (5126 m)
» Volcano Antisana (5758 m)
» Volcano Guagua Pichincha (4784 m)
» Volcano Rucupichincha (4698 m)
» Volcano Pasochoa (4199 m) and others.
Bolivia:
» Mountain Condoriri summit "Cabeza de Condor" Direct Route (5648m)
» Mountain Huayna Potosi normal route (6088 m)
» Volcano Sajama (6542 m)
» Volcano Acotango (6052 m)
» Volcano Parinacota (6348 m)
» Mountain Illimani (6462 m)
» Pequeño Alpamayo (5410 m) direct route
» Cerro Kinkillosa (5008 m)
» Cerro Austria (5321 m)
Chile:
» The highest volcano in the world Ojos del Salados (6893 m)
» San Pedro de Atacama - Exploring the city (2440 m)
» San Pedro de Atacama - Tour to Valle de Luna (2500 m)
» San Pedro de Atacama - Tour Exploring Guatin Canyon (3500 m)
» San Pedro de Atacama - Exploring Geyser "El Tatio" (4300 m). Highest geysers in the world
» San Pedro de Atacama - Climbing Lascar Volcano (5592 m)
» San Pedro de Atacama - Climbing Toco Volcano (5604 m)
» San Pedro de Atacama - Exploring Pukará de Quitor (2800 m) » City Copiapo - After breakfast bus transfer to Laguna Santa Rosa (3600 m)
» Laguna Santa Rosa - Transfer Laguna Verde (4400 m)
» Laguna Verde - Climbing Cerro San Francisco (6018 m)
» Laguna Verde - Transfer Refugio Atacama (5200 m) - Climbing Cerro Vicuñas (6067 m)
» Camp Atacama - Trekking up to Refugio Tejos (5820 m) - Return to Camp Atacama
» Camp Atacama - Trekking up to Refugio Tejos (5820 m)
» Region Putre - Cerro Surunche (3878 m)
» Region Putre - Hike to Lake Chungara (4600 m)
» Region Putre - Akklimatisierungstouren - Jurasi (4800 m)
» Region Putre - Cerro Guane Guane (5050 m)
» Region Putre - Village Guallatire Summit (5400 m)
Argentina:
» Aconcagua up to 6850M (not summit due to bad weather)
In the Alps / Europe
Italy:
» September / 2015 - Ortler via Hintergrat (3905 m), Südtirol
» 2015 / 2016 - Verschiedene Kletterrouten am Gardasee (Aprodite / Porci del Ai, Moonbears, Luna de argentea, Fiaba del Bosco, Il mercurio serpegiante, Il Scalette del Indria
» April / 2016 - Klettern Tannheimer - Via Anita
» April / 2016 - Klettern Gindlkante
Austria:
» April / 2012 - Schneeberg (1051 m)
» October / 2015 - Großes Wiesbachhorn via Kaindlgrat (3564 m)
» October / 2015 - Wildspitze über Breslauer Hütte (3770 m)
» May / 2016 - Skitour – Großglockner (3798 m)
» October / 2016 - Schönfeldspitze (2653 m)
Germany:
» April / 2012 - Zugspitze (2962 m)
» September / 2015 – Watzmannüberschreitung (2713 m)
Switzerland:
» October / 2015 - Versuch Matterhorn bis 4200 - Abbruch wegen Wetter
» September / 2016 - Cavadiras Südkante (2948 m)
Croatia:
» November / 2016 - National Park Paklenica: Rock Climbing different routes
Slovenia:
» November / 2016 - Triglav (2864 m), via Tomineksteig and Bambergerweg
| TRAVELED SO FAR FOLLOWING COUNTRIES FOR PHOTOGRAPHING, MOUNTAINEERING AND CLIMBING
Destinations:
Europe: Germany, Austria, Italy, France, Spain, Holland, Italy, Switzerland
Asia: Not yet visited this place
Africa: Not yet visited this place
America: Canada
South America: Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile, Argentina
Central America: Not yet visited this place
Oceania: Not yet visited this place
Antarctica: Not yet visited this place
More info: https://www.peru-expeditions.org/history-biography-about-eric-albino-lliuya.php
Location
Peru, Ancash, Huaylas Province
Day 1
Huaraz - Transfer Cashapampa - trekking to Llamacoral
Huaraz Privat transfer drive about 3 Hours to village Cashapampa via valley of Santa river crossing villages Caraz, Yugay and Caraz; Starting the Trekking Santa Cruz; meeting team and burros, trekking up to Llamacoral (3850 m). Overnight Camp (-/L/D)
Day 2
Llamacoral - Trekking to Base Camp of Alpamayo
Camp Llamacoral - Trekking to Arhuaycocha (4300 m). With views of the peaks Alpamayo, Artesnorahu and Taulliraju. Night at the Base Camp of Alpamayo (4350 m). Overnight Camp (B/L/D)
Day 3
Alpamayo Base Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo Moraine Camp 4900
Today we have a good breakfast and prepare the expedition equipment for Alpamayo, from here we begin using a local team (porters, cook and local guides), who will help us carry everything. We set out for the moraine after a small lunch in Base Camp. The trail takes us across the steep moraine at the tongue of the glacier to Moraine Camp (4,900 m). Overnight Camp (B/L/D)
Day 4
Moraine Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo High Camp (5300 m)
Alpamayo High Camp is on the steep glacier at the base of Alpamayo and Quitaraju. Due to the constant shrinkage of the glacier, every year we find a different situation along this section. We find magnificent views from High Camp the summit looks close enough to touch! We have dinner a bit early because we must rise very early, for the long day that awaits us tomorrow. High Camp (5,300 m). Overnight Camp (B/L/D)
Day 5
Ascend to Alpamayo Summit (5947 m)
High Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo Summit (5947 m) - High Camp (5300 m) or Descend to Base Camp (4300 m)
Summit day! One possible route is the French route, a 60 to 80 degree wall of ice which narrows toward the top. . Above the wall, you need to conquer a few meters to the highest point of the narrow ridge. At the summit, you will be rewarded with a magnificent view of the Cordillera Blanca! The neighboring peak of Quitaraju (6,036 m) is almost within striking distance; and to the southwest you can see the remarkable summit of Huascarán (6,768 m.) After a brief rest and photos at the summit, we return quickly to High Camp via a rappel down the route we came up. In good weather, the climb to the summit and return to base camp can be done before noon. The ascent takes 5-6 hours, while the descent takes about 2-3 hours. If participants are tired, we can stay one more night in High Camp. If everyone feels fine, which is usual, we descend to Alpamayo Base Camp (4,300 m). Overnight Camp (B/L/D)
Day 6
Down to Cashapampa trasnfer back to Huaraz
Base Camp - Descent through Quebrada Santa Cruz - Cashapampa - Transfer to Huaraz
Today we rise early in order to begin our hike, descending through the Santa Cruz valley to Cashapampa (about 6 hours.) In this village our minibus awaits to take us and the local expedition team back to Huaraz. Lodging at the hotel. Overnight Hotel (B/L/-)
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Last update: Eric Albino Lliuya Peru Expeditions
(11 Sep 2020)