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Created: Eric Albino Lliuya...
Last update: 05 Dec 2017
Expedition Nevado Ranrapalca (6162 m)
| Activity type: | Mountaineering |
| Activity level: | Challenging/ Tough |
| Availability: |
20 May 2020 - 9 Sep 2020 |
| Duration: | 4 Day(s) / Tour with flexible start dates |
| Price: | from $1000 / Negotiable |
Full description
About Nevado Ranrapalca: "Peruvian Andes - the Himalayas of South America" The name comes from the ancient Quechua language and means "place of many rocks." Ranrapalca Chinchey is in the solid, which can be seen very well from the city of Huaraz in its proximity and dimensions. The 6000 is one of the more unfrequented mountains of Peru, due to its technical demands. To climb this mountain, you need a lot of experience and a good physical condition. Before you try on the ascent, you should have well acclimatized in any case.
The Quebrada Ishinca Base camp: Besides a wide plan to put on your tent - offers indeed various possibilities to climb some interesting routes, as Urus Este Normal route, shorter than the Ishinca Normal one. Also the ascent of the neighbouring Urus Central and Urus Oeste shows low difficulties, but these latters are rarely climbed in favour of the very popular Urus Este. The super-classic Tocllaraju NW ridge and the most difficult Ranrapalca Normal route belong to another climbing range and complete the possibilities.
Ranrapalca is one of the most breathtaking mountains of Peru´s Cordillera Blanca. It is easily seen from Huaraz, and overwhelming to everybody climbing nearby Ishinca (5.530m), its North Face is a superb climb.
The Routes of Ranrapalca: First time I attempted Ranrapalca was in the summer of 99 via the NE Spur; half way on the route my two basque friends and I had to traverse to the left to catch up with the NE slopes because the snow-ice conditions at 10:00 am where as bad as waist deep corky snow while climbing the sharp´s edge ridge with 600m fall to one side and 150m fall to the other. Not to improve, because the rockfall from the rocky band way above the NE slopes was continuously testing our nerves to the point to make us bail out. NE Slopes, D- From the Ranrapalca-Ishinca col, that can also be gained from Q. Cojup. Climb the easy slopes to the left of the ridge then two sections through seracs, 60º. And crossing the bergschrund and climbing the ice-wall of a small serac is the crux, specially if we have to find the point to go through it in the middle of the night with the only help of the light of our headlamps. On an easier terrain you could join the NE ridge and climb it to the summit plateu or climbing the slopes straight forward to the summit plateu. Traverse 500m South to the sharped summit.
NE Ridge: D From the Ranrapalca-Ishinca col climb steep mixed NE ridge to snow summit platform. Traverse 500m South to the sharped summit.
N Face: Scandinavian Direct 1996, MD/MD+ (V,60º[90º],VI+[V],900m)The route starts to the right of the central couloir of the N.Face. We would have to cross over the rock band on our right, and ascend the snow cone for about 150m. Traverse right under the serac over rock, mixed, ice an snow to head again up in order to climb between the 3rd. and the 4rth. group of rocks in the middle of the face, before arriving to that point we will have to go across the bergschround. From the rock group head up a little left just to leave another rock group right by our left. Keeping on that line we would be getting closer to the N spur to meet with it right at the very top of the face. A short rock section and a gentle snow slope will leave us in the summit plateu. Looking south opposite to us the knife edged summit crowning the summit plateu.
Descent via NE slopes: I suggest to abseil the first part. Some years it is hard to find the way through the bergschround of NE slopes, make sure to be there by daylight.
Recomended gear: Two ropes, some: friends (big/med sizes), nuts, ice-screws,snow-stakes,pegs and two ice axes.
Price includes
- Peruvian qualified and experienced local guide/s
- All meals during the tour
- Camping tents (2 persons)
- Porters Nevado Ranrapalca (2 pax 1 porter)
- Kitchen equipment
- Cooks
- Donkey driver and donkeys
- Transportation as tour schedule / Huaraz
Not included in price
- Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure
- Travel accident and health insurance
- Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
- Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz
- Personal expenses
- Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station
- Domestic flight Airline ticket LC-Peru
- Hotel San Sebastián 4 nights in Huaraz
- Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)
- Tips
Guide
Eric Albino Lliuya Peru Expeditions
29 years, Peru
Guide
0
Mountaineering, Hiking, Rock Climbing, Ice Climbing, Backcountry Skiing
Verified Profile
- Email address
- Phone number
Biography About Eric Albino Lliuya a Mountain Guide from Peru
Eric Albino Lliuya
Professional guide by: AGOMP
E-mail: office@peru-expeditions.org
WhatsApp Eric Albino Lliuya 0051 943081066 - | LinkedIn |
He speaks: Spanish, Quechua, English, and some French. Currently he is learning German also.
General Sales Manager, mountaineer, tour organizer and mountain guide of Peru Expeditions Tours EIRL
Eric was born in 1984 in Unchus viallge - Huaraz, Peru. Very early he was inspired by the mountains from trips taken with his father and grandfather. At 18, he began working as a trekking and mountain guide and support his father Juventino with tourism. Juventino is a Mountain Guide AGMP-UIAGM from Huaraz, Peru.
Eric is responsible and organized groups trekking and mountaineering in the area of logistics and security in the Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Huayhuash and South America.
| CV = Curriculum vitae
Details:
• Born 01. July . 1984
• Lives in Huaraz, Ancash - Peru
Education:
High School 2002 Jorge Basadre Grohmann in Huaraz
Education/studied Centro de Estudios de Alta Montaña (CEAM), School of Mountain Guides from 2006 to 2008
Languages:
• English language course intermediate VII (2006 to 2008), from Monday to Friday from 08:00 Hrs to 9:30 Hrs in the Casa de Guias - School of Mountain Guides, Parque Ginebra 28G - Huaraz city, Ancash - Perú
• German language course Module 1 to 4 (from 17 October 2011 to 26 March 2012), from Monday to Thursday from 08:15 Hrs to 12:15 Hrs in the VHS-Bildungszentrum school, Schlossergasse 8-10 Frankenthal city - Germany
Associacions:
• Member of DAV Summit Club - Deutsche Alpenverein since 2016, application area worldwide, especially expeditions, expedition-like things and training courses
• 'Since 2013 member of the Official Peruvian Mountain Guides Association and instructor of the mountain courses (AGOMP) in Peru
• On 15th. October 2016, take the first aid training course in Schladming - Austria with the Berg- und Schiführer Steiermark - IVBV - UIAGM - IFMGA
Working Experience:
• 2005 - 2016 mountain guide and tour leader of "Peru Expeditions Tours" and different
• A tour leader by BergSpechte Mr. Edi Koblmüller travel agency from Austria (2005-2017)
• A tour leader by Suedamerika Tours Mr. Thomas Wilken travel agency from Germany (2009-2017)
• A tour leader by 7 Summits Club 7 Summits Club Mrs. Lubmila and Mr. Alexander travel agency from Russia (2015-2017)
• A tour leader by AndeanVenture Mr. Christian Schöttle travel agency from Germany (2014-2017)
• A tour leader by Explore-Share Mr. Nicolas Vandepaer community platform from Belgium/Argentina (2013-2017)
• A tour leader by AlcostaRica Mr. Armin Liedl travel agency from Costa Rica(2006-2017)
• A tour leader by Mountaineering Association of Vojvodina Mr. Milivoj Erdeljan Association from Serbia (2013-2017)
• A tour leader by Eco Field trips Mr. Ronen Raz travel agency from Israel (2005-2017)
• A tour leader by BergHorizonte Mr. Christian Schubert travel agency from Germany (2016-2017)
• A tour leader by ProjectCordillera Mr. Sam Williams travel agency from England (2016-2017)
Projects:
• Peaks 150 Team: Mammut-Project/Huascarán - Successful expedition year 2012 Huascaran North Summit
• Rescue organization recovery of bodies September,2, 2015 Huandoy Sur, Peru. Alexander Ruchkin and Vjacheslav Ivanov died on the descent on Huandoy Sur South face
Journeys:
• Journey through the Andean countries of South America '2005 / 2017'
• Since 2005 to 2017 guiding tours-expeditions in Ecuador, Bolivia, Chile & Argentina
• On 2011 year first visit to Europe and experience in the Alps countries as Germany, Austria, Italy, Switzerland, etc. current location or visit is in Europe from 15th September to 13rd December 2016
General Sales Manager of: Peru Expeditons Tours
Mountaineering experience in his life
Expert Mountain Guide from Huaraz, Peru.
Eric is a guide as well sport climber, he is traveling often in South Americain and Alps of Europa for climbing and guiding and organizing trips-expedition mountaineering. He counts with more than 50 lead-expeditions to the comercial high altitude mountaineers and guidig in the Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Huayhuash and including other countries in South America as well in the alps. he led since 2005 the company Peru Expeditons Tours together with his father Juventino Martin Albino Caldua a mountain guide member of AGMP-UIAGM, in Peru his travel agency is leader in professionally managed expeditions in the Cordillera Banca and Huayhuash.
South America
Peru:
» Nevado Alpamayo (5947 m)
» Nevado Huascaran Sur (6768 m) normal route and route Escudo (direct and technical sign-route ), MAMMUT Project 150 years aniversary Huascaran North Peak (6655 m)
» Nevado Tocllaraju (6034 m) normal route & record Climbing west side in 2 days
» Nevado Ranrapalca (6162 m) new route south valley Cojub
» Nevado Urus central (5495 m) new direct route south
» Nevado Chopicalqui (6354 m)
» Nevado Palcaraju central (6264 m)
» Nevado Ishinca (5530 m)
» Nevado Vallunaraju (5686 m)
» Nevado Pisco (5752 m) normal route and direct route South Face
» Nevado Diablo Mudo (5300 m) in the Huayhuash
» Nevado Maparaju (5325 m)
» Nevado Andavite (5518 m)
Ecuador:
» Volcano Chimborazo (6310 m)
» Volcano Cotopaxi (5897 m)
» Volcano Cayambe (5790 m)
» Volcano Iliniza Norte (5126 m)
» Volcano Antisana (5758 m)
» Volcano Guagua Pichincha (4784 m)
» Volcano Rucupichincha (4698 m)
» Volcano Pasochoa (4199 m) and others.
Bolivia:
» Mountain Condoriri summit "Cabeza de Condor" Direct Route (5648m)
» Mountain Huayna Potosi normal route (6088 m)
» Volcano Sajama (6542 m)
» Volcano Acotango (6052 m)
» Volcano Parinacota (6348 m)
» Mountain Illimani (6462 m)
» Pequeño Alpamayo (5410 m) direct route
» Cerro Kinkillosa (5008 m)
» Cerro Austria (5321 m)
Chile:
» The highest volcano in the world Ojos del Salados (6893 m)
» San Pedro de Atacama - Exploring the city (2440 m)
» San Pedro de Atacama - Tour to Valle de Luna (2500 m)
» San Pedro de Atacama - Tour Exploring Guatin Canyon (3500 m)
» San Pedro de Atacama - Exploring Geyser "El Tatio" (4300 m). Highest geysers in the world
» San Pedro de Atacama - Climbing Lascar Volcano (5592 m)
» San Pedro de Atacama - Climbing Toco Volcano (5604 m)
» San Pedro de Atacama - Exploring Pukará de Quitor (2800 m) » City Copiapo - After breakfast bus transfer to Laguna Santa Rosa (3600 m)
» Laguna Santa Rosa - Transfer Laguna Verde (4400 m)
» Laguna Verde - Climbing Cerro San Francisco (6018 m)
» Laguna Verde - Transfer Refugio Atacama (5200 m) - Climbing Cerro Vicuñas (6067 m)
» Camp Atacama - Trekking up to Refugio Tejos (5820 m) - Return to Camp Atacama
» Camp Atacama - Trekking up to Refugio Tejos (5820 m)
» Region Putre - Cerro Surunche (3878 m)
» Region Putre - Hike to Lake Chungara (4600 m)
» Region Putre - Akklimatisierungstouren - Jurasi (4800 m)
» Region Putre - Cerro Guane Guane (5050 m)
» Region Putre - Village Guallatire Summit (5400 m)
Argentina:
» Aconcagua up to 6850M (not summit due to bad weather)
In the Alps / Europe
Italy:
» September / 2015 - Ortler via Hintergrat (3905 m), Südtirol
» 2015 / 2016 - Verschiedene Kletterrouten am Gardasee (Aprodite / Porci del Ai, Moonbears, Luna de argentea, Fiaba del Bosco, Il mercurio serpegiante, Il Scalette del Indria
» April / 2016 - Klettern Tannheimer - Via Anita
» April / 2016 - Klettern Gindlkante
Austria:
» April / 2012 - Schneeberg (1051 m)
» October / 2015 - Großes Wiesbachhorn via Kaindlgrat (3564 m)
» October / 2015 - Wildspitze über Breslauer Hütte (3770 m)
» May / 2016 - Skitour – Großglockner (3798 m)
» October / 2016 - Schönfeldspitze (2653 m)
Germany:
» April / 2012 - Zugspitze (2962 m)
» September / 2015 – Watzmannüberschreitung (2713 m)
Switzerland:
» October / 2015 - Versuch Matterhorn bis 4200 - Abbruch wegen Wetter
» September / 2016 - Cavadiras Südkante (2948 m)
Croatia:
» November / 2016 - National Park Paklenica: Rock Climbing different routes
Slovenia:
» November / 2016 - Triglav (2864 m), via Tomineksteig and Bambergerweg
| TRAVELED SO FAR FOLLOWING COUNTRIES FOR PHOTOGRAPHING, MOUNTAINEERING AND CLIMBING
Destinations:
Europe: Germany, Austria, Italy, France, Spain, Holland, Italy, Switzerland
Asia: Not yet visited this place
Africa: Not yet visited this place
America: Canada
South America: Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile, Argentina
Central America: Not yet visited this place
Oceania: Not yet visited this place
Antarctica: Not yet visited this place
More info: https://www.peru-expeditions.org/history-biography-about-eric-albino-lliuya.php
Location
Peru, Ancash, Huaraz
Day 1
Huaraz - Transfer to Pashpa -Trekking to Ishinca Base Camp
Today we leave the city of Huaraz toward the north and down to the Callejón de Huaylas (also known as the Santa Valley) to the village of Paltay. We continue on an unpaved route to Pashpa (3,400 m), on to the small Lake Cochapampa. Here is where our local team of mule drivers waits for us. It is a 90 minute trip from Huaraz to Paltay. We then have a tranquil climb through the Ishinca Valley to our camp, near Refugio Don Bosco. 4-5 hours. Overnight Camp (-/L/D)
Day 2
Ishinca Base Camp - Yanapampa - NE ridge
This day we headed down the path to ascent Base Camp Ishincain to the valley Yanarajupampa, in direction NE ridge or the NE slopes Ranrapalca Col (5300 m) a which lies between the two Ranrapalca and Ishinca snow, uphill for easy ramps, avoiding cracks up to the Col where we will our camp. (Elevation: + 500 m; duration: 6 to 7 hours approx.). Overnight Camp (B/L/D)
Day 3
High Camp 1 Ranrapalca - Ascent Summit Ranrapalca (6162 m)
This day summit day! very early (2-3 am) we start to ascent to Ranrapalca (6162m). In the ascent to the mountain Ranrapalca on Route Arista NE, we will overcome cracks and bergschrunds, climbing a Arista razor sharp which ends in the next glacier plate, the ascent route will arrive to the summit of Ranrapalca, where we have a beautiful view of the Cordillera Blanca, we can see the Cayesh, San Juan, Maparaju, Tullparaju, Pucaranra, Huapi, Huantsan, Ishinca, Tocllaraju, Urus, snowy subsequently be returning to Col Ranrapalca. (Elevation: + 862 m; duration: 10 to 12 hours approx). Overnight Camp (B/L/D)
Day 4
Camp 1-Ishinca Base Camp -down to Pashpa -transfer to Huaraz
After breakfast we leave at 8am, we pick up our tents and will be returning to the Q Yanarajupampa and Ishinca base camp, we fail to dry materials mountain after our expedition Ascent to Ranrapalca Mountain, for an easy return walk to Pashpa, from Base Camp Ishinca the burros will be carrying our camping and personal equipment. We’ll return via a hillside covered with queñuales trees (Polylepis spp.), native to the high Andes. Here our private transport will be waiting. It’s likely we’ll arrive early and have lunch in Huaraz. Lodging in the hotel. Overnight Hotel (B/L/-)
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Last update: Eric Albino Lliuya Peru Expeditions
(10 Sep 2020)