Created: Eric Albino Lliuya...
Last update: 05 Dec 2017
Activity type: | Mountaineering |
Activity level: | Challenging |
Availability: |
15 May 2020 - 10 Sep 2020 |
Duration: | 20 Day(s) / Tour with flexible start dates |
Price: | from $2150 / Negotiable |
Detailed description:
About Quebrada Ishinca: Mountain views - Three Peruvian Peaks - Urus (5495m), Ishinca (5530m) and Tocllaraju (6034m). Climb of Ishinca, with a journey through the Ishinca Valley, is a popular destination for climbers who want to get to 5 or 6000 meter peak, but because of the scenic beauty, this is a great climb even if you don’t reach the peak. On this hike we have a fascinating view of the massif that includes Ishinca, Urus, Tocllaraju, Ranrapalco, the Palcarajus and much more. Ishinca Traverse (5530 m / 18,143 ft)
Nevado Urus (5495 m): Ascent from the base camp of Ishinca at (4350 m) to the top of Urus in 2h30 up and 1 hour down.
Urus is an acclimatization mountain to prepare for the higher peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. It's normally considered a trekking peak more than a climbing one, but weather conditions can make this 'easy' summit far from a sure bet.
About Huascarán Peak: This mountain has two summits: Huascarán North (6655 m) and the main summit, Huascarán South (6768 m). Huascarán is the highest peak in Peru. Many climbers dream of reaching this high summit of 6,768 meters. Technically, the mountain is not difficult, nevertheless, due to its elevation and risk of avalanches, it is a serious climb.
The mountain offers multiple routes to arrive at the highest point in Peru. In any case, anyone attempting this peak should be well acclimatized to altitude before venturing to these huge glaciated mountains.
Observation: Huascarán South Summit (6.768 m)
The conditions on all mountains change every year; particularly since the glacier between High Camps I and II is receding. Accordingly, some years it is a challenge to get from to High Camp 2 due to the crevasses and the large avalanches that can fall in the chute. Nevertheless, , an ascent of Huascarán is without a doubt one of the highlights of mountaineering in the Andes.
The difficulty: Nevado Huascarán is demanding.
Eric Albino Lliuya Peru Expeditions
29 years, Peru
Guide
0
Biography About Eric Albino Lliuya a Mountain Guide from Peru
Eric Albino Lliuya
Professional guide by: AGOMP
E-mail: office@peru-expeditions.org
WhatsApp Eric Albino Lliuya 0051 943081066 - | LinkedIn |
He speaks: Spanish, Quechua, English, and some French. Currently he is learning German also.
General Sales Manager, mountaineer, tour organizer and mountain guide of Peru Expeditions Tours EIRL
Eric was born in 1984 in Unchus viallge - Huaraz, Peru. Very early he was inspired by the mountains from trips taken with his father and grandfather. At 18, he began working as a trekking and mountain guide and support his father Juventino with tourism. Juventino is a Mountain Guide AGMP-UIAGM from Huaraz, Peru.
Eric is responsible and organized groups trekking and mountaineering in the area of logistics and security in the Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Huayhuash and South America.
| CV = Curriculum vitae
Details:
• Born 01. July . 1984
• Lives in Huaraz, Ancash - Peru
Education:
High School 2002 Jorge Basadre Grohmann in Huaraz
Education/studied Centro de Estudios de Alta Montaña (CEAM), School of Mountain Guides from 2006 to 2008
Languages:
• English language course intermediate VII (2006 to 2008), from Monday to Friday from 08:00 Hrs to 9:30 Hrs in the Casa de Guias - School of Mountain Guides, Parque Ginebra 28G - Huaraz city, Ancash - Perú
• German language course Module 1 to 4 (from 17 October 2011 to 26 March 2012), from Monday to Thursday from 08:15 Hrs to 12:15 Hrs in the VHS-Bildungszentrum school, Schlossergasse 8-10 Frankenthal city - Germany
Associacions:
• Member of DAV Summit Club - Deutsche Alpenverein since 2016, application area worldwide, especially expeditions, expedition-like things and training courses
• 'Since 2013 member of the Official Peruvian Mountain Guides Association and instructor of the mountain courses (AGOMP) in Peru
• On 15th. October 2016, take the first aid training course in Schladming - Austria with the Berg- und Schiführer Steiermark - IVBV - UIAGM - IFMGA
Working Experience:
• 2005 - 2016 mountain guide and tour leader of "Peru Expeditions Tours" and different
• A tour leader by BergSpechte Mr. Edi Koblmüller travel agency from Austria (2005-2017)
• A tour leader by Suedamerika Tours Mr. Thomas Wilken travel agency from Germany (2009-2017)
• A tour leader by 7 Summits Club 7 Summits Club Mrs. Lubmila and Mr. Alexander travel agency from Russia (2015-2017)
• A tour leader by AndeanVenture Mr. Christian Schöttle travel agency from Germany (2014-2017)
• A tour leader by Explore-Share Mr. Nicolas Vandepaer community platform from Belgium/Argentina (2013-2017)
• A tour leader by AlcostaRica Mr. Armin Liedl travel agency from Costa Rica(2006-2017)
• A tour leader by Mountaineering Association of Vojvodina Mr. Milivoj Erdeljan Association from Serbia (2013-2017)
• A tour leader by Eco Field trips Mr. Ronen Raz travel agency from Israel (2005-2017)
• A tour leader by BergHorizonte Mr. Christian Schubert travel agency from Germany (2016-2017)
• A tour leader by ProjectCordillera Mr. Sam Williams travel agency from England (2016-2017)
Projects:
• Peaks 150 Team: Mammut-Project/Huascarán - Successful expedition year 2012 Huascaran North Summit
• Rescue organization recovery of bodies September,2, 2015 Huandoy Sur, Peru. Alexander Ruchkin and Vjacheslav Ivanov died on the descent on Huandoy Sur South face
Journeys:
• Journey through the Andean countries of South America '2005 / 2017'
• Since 2005 to 2017 guiding tours-expeditions in Ecuador, Bolivia, Chile & Argentina
• On 2011 year first visit to Europe and experience in the Alps countries as Germany, Austria, Italy, Switzerland, etc. current location or visit is in Europe from 15th September to 13rd December 2016
General Sales Manager of: Peru Expeditons Tours
Mountaineering experience in his life
Expert Mountain Guide from Huaraz, Peru.
Eric is a guide as well sport climber, he is traveling often in South Americain and Alps of Europa for climbing and guiding and organizing trips-expedition mountaineering. He counts with more than 50 lead-expeditions to the comercial high altitude mountaineers and guidig in the Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Huayhuash and including other countries in South America as well in the alps. he led since 2005 the company Peru Expeditons Tours together with his father Juventino Martin Albino Caldua a mountain guide member of AGMP-UIAGM, in Peru his travel agency is leader in professionally managed expeditions in the Cordillera Banca and Huayhuash.
South America
Peru:
» Nevado Alpamayo (5947 m)
» Nevado Huascaran Sur (6768 m) normal route and route Escudo (direct and technical sign-route ), MAMMUT Project 150 years aniversary Huascaran North Peak (6655 m)
» Nevado Tocllaraju (6034 m) normal route & record Climbing west side in 2 days
» Nevado Ranrapalca (6162 m) new route south valley Cojub
» Nevado Urus central (5495 m) new direct route south
» Nevado Chopicalqui (6354 m)
» Nevado Palcaraju central (6264 m)
» Nevado Ishinca (5530 m)
» Nevado Vallunaraju (5686 m)
» Nevado Pisco (5752 m) normal route and direct route South Face
» Nevado Diablo Mudo (5300 m) in the Huayhuash
» Nevado Maparaju (5325 m)
» Nevado Andavite (5518 m)
Ecuador:
» Volcano Chimborazo (6310 m)
» Volcano Cotopaxi (5897 m)
» Volcano Cayambe (5790 m)
» Volcano Iliniza Norte (5126 m)
» Volcano Antisana (5758 m)
» Volcano Guagua Pichincha (4784 m)
» Volcano Rucupichincha (4698 m)
» Volcano Pasochoa (4199 m) and others.
Bolivia:
» Mountain Condoriri summit "Cabeza de Condor" Direct Route (5648m)
» Mountain Huayna Potosi normal route (6088 m)
» Volcano Sajama (6542 m)
» Volcano Acotango (6052 m)
» Volcano Parinacota (6348 m)
» Mountain Illimani (6462 m)
» Pequeño Alpamayo (5410 m) direct route
» Cerro Kinkillosa (5008 m)
» Cerro Austria (5321 m)
Chile:
» The highest volcano in the world Ojos del Salados (6893 m)
» San Pedro de Atacama - Exploring the city (2440 m)
» San Pedro de Atacama - Tour to Valle de Luna (2500 m)
» San Pedro de Atacama - Tour Exploring Guatin Canyon (3500 m)
» San Pedro de Atacama - Exploring Geyser "El Tatio" (4300 m). Highest geysers in the world
» San Pedro de Atacama - Climbing Lascar Volcano (5592 m)
» San Pedro de Atacama - Climbing Toco Volcano (5604 m)
» San Pedro de Atacama - Exploring Pukará de Quitor (2800 m) » City Copiapo - After breakfast bus transfer to Laguna Santa Rosa (3600 m)
» Laguna Santa Rosa - Transfer Laguna Verde (4400 m)
» Laguna Verde - Climbing Cerro San Francisco (6018 m)
» Laguna Verde - Transfer Refugio Atacama (5200 m) - Climbing Cerro Vicuñas (6067 m)
» Camp Atacama - Trekking up to Refugio Tejos (5820 m) - Return to Camp Atacama
» Camp Atacama - Trekking up to Refugio Tejos (5820 m)
» Region Putre - Cerro Surunche (3878 m)
» Region Putre - Hike to Lake Chungara (4600 m)
» Region Putre - Akklimatisierungstouren - Jurasi (4800 m)
» Region Putre - Cerro Guane Guane (5050 m)
» Region Putre - Village Guallatire Summit (5400 m)
Argentina:
» Aconcagua up to 6850M (not summit due to bad weather)
In the Alps / Europe
Italy:
» September / 2015 - Ortler via Hintergrat (3905 m), Südtirol
» 2015 / 2016 - Verschiedene Kletterrouten am Gardasee (Aprodite / Porci del Ai, Moonbears, Luna de argentea, Fiaba del Bosco, Il mercurio serpegiante, Il Scalette del Indria
» April / 2016 - Klettern Tannheimer - Via Anita
» April / 2016 - Klettern Gindlkante
Austria:
» April / 2012 - Schneeberg (1051 m)
» October / 2015 - Großes Wiesbachhorn via Kaindlgrat (3564 m)
» October / 2015 - Wildspitze über Breslauer Hütte (3770 m)
» May / 2016 - Skitour – Großglockner (3798 m)
» October / 2016 - Schönfeldspitze (2653 m)
Germany:
» April / 2012 - Zugspitze (2962 m)
» September / 2015 – Watzmannüberschreitung (2713 m)
Switzerland:
» October / 2015 - Versuch Matterhorn bis 4200 - Abbruch wegen Wetter
» September / 2016 - Cavadiras Südkante (2948 m)
Croatia:
» November / 2016 - National Park Paklenica: Rock Climbing different routes
Slovenia:
» November / 2016 - Triglav (2864 m), via Tomineksteig and Bambergerweg
| TRAVELED SO FAR FOLLOWING COUNTRIES FOR PHOTOGRAPHING, MOUNTAINEERING AND CLIMBING
Destinations:
Europe: Germany, Austria, Italy, France, Spain, Holland, Italy, Switzerland
Asia: Not yet visited this place
Africa: Not yet visited this place
America: Canada
South America: Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile, Argentina
Central America: Not yet visited this place
Oceania: Not yet visited this place
Antarctica: Not yet visited this place
More info: https://www.peru-expeditions.org/history-biography-about-eric-albino-lliuya.php
Peru, Ancash
Flight from Europe, USA, Canada, etc - to Peru
Flight from Europe or the country of origin (USA or Canada), etc. Arrival in Lima - Transfer Hotel the large city in South America; population approximately 11 million. Rest or explore the city on your own.Overnight Hotel (-/-/-)
From Lima - Travel by bus to Huaraz (3100m).
This ride follows the Pan American highway north across the impressive Pacific coastal desert. Continuing toward higher terrain, we pass through the Cordillera Negra (Black Range) at Conococha Pass (4020 m) into the Santa Valley and Huaraz (3100m). Once across the pass, you’ll see a charming view of the mountains of the Cordillera Blanca, without a doubt some of the most impressive scenery in the world. You can also fly via LCPERU - flight duration 50 minutes. Overnight Hotel (B/-/-)
Huaraz - Trekking to Laguna Wilcacoha (3725 m) ↑↓
For acclimatization we visit the Cordillera Negra, where you can see a magnificent view of the Cordillera Blanca. We’ll have a chance to see wild ducks on the beautiful lake. Wilcacocha, because of its location, is an exceptional viewpoint for the Cordillera Blanca, allowing us to identify peaks (from north to south) Huandoy, Huascarán, Chopicalqui, Hualcan, Copa,Vallunaraju, Ocshapalca, Ranrapalca, Palcaraju, Churup, and many more.Overnight Hotel (B/L/-)
Huaraz - Trekking to Laguna Churup (4650 m)
The trail to Laguna Churup is one of the classic hikes of the Cordillera Blanca, challenging but a great acclimatization route. We drive to the village of Llupa, and from there begin our hike on an ancient Inca trail to Laguna (Lake) Churup. The trail narrows and steepens, but also becomes more interesting, including a small climb with fixed ropes. It is one of the most beautiful places in this varied mountain region. Churup Peak rises above the lake, a wild rocky mountain with glaciers and cliffs 5,400 meters above sea level. Here we can continue climbing and do a loop to the Churup summit trail before returning to the trailhead and back to Huaraz for the night. Overnight Hotel (B/L/-)
Huaraz - Transfer to Pashpa (3400 m) - Trekking to Ishinca B
Today we leave the city of Huaraz toward the north and down to the Callejón de Huaylas (also known as the Santa Valley) to the village of Paltay. We continue on an unpaved route to Pashpa (3,400 m), on to the small Lake Cochapampa. Here is where our local team of mule drivers waits for us. It is a 90 minute trip from Huaraz to Paltay. We then have a tranquil climb through the Ishinca Valley to our camp, near Refugio Don Bosco. 4-5 hours. Overnight Hotel (B/L/D)
Ishinca Base Camp - Climb Ishinca Peak (5530 m) - Base Camp
A continuous climb on a good trail and then over the moraine to the glacier. The climb on the glacier is not steep, except for the last 50 meters to the summit. However, in some years, depending on the conditions at the glacier, there can be some steep sections or hard ice, over which we will be accompanied by a local mountain guide. Return via the same trail to Base Camp. 10-12 hours. Overnight Hotel (B/L/D)
Rest day - Acclimatization at Ishinca Base Camp (4250 m)
Today we have the entire day free. If participants have any questions about use of technical climbing equipment, today is a good day to practice. Overnight again in Base Camp. Overnight Hotel (B/L/-)
Ishinca Base Camp - Climb Urus Peak (5495 m) - Ishinca Base
Ascent of the west face of Urus. A sloped route takes us to a ridge, crossing large rocks on the moraine until we reach the glacier. We climb over the snow and ice for an hour; then the last 50 minutes to the summit is easier over the moraine. A steep descent to camp. 7 hours. Overnight Camp (B/L/D)
Ishinca Base Camp - Trekking to Tocllaraju Moraine Camp (495
About mid day, after lunch, we begin the ascent via a steep moraine to the edge of the glacier. From this point we can seeTocllaraju (6,032 m), very near. We’ll set up our high camp on the moraine. Hiking time: 4-5 hours. Overnight Camp (B/L/D)
Moraine Camp - Ascend Tocllaraju Peak (6034 m) - Ishinca Bas
After Summit Day! Summit day! After a very early breakfast, we proceed over the glacier to the northwest ridge of the peak. Because the glacier changes from year to year, the technical ice climbing is also different from year to year. We might find small walls of ice, up to 60 degree surfaces. The summit ridge is secured with fixed ropes. From the 6000+ meter peak, the view opens on the entire Cordillera Blanca. Descend to Base Camp. At noon we return to Moraine Camp and continue to Base Camp. Some 10-12 hours today. Overnight Camp (B/L/D)
Ishinca Base Camp - Trekking to Cochapampa Lake (3,400 m) -
After breakfast we leave at 8am for an easy return walk to Pashpa. Today burros will be carrying our camping and personal equipment. We’ll return via a hillside covered with queñuales trees (Polylepis spp.), native to the high Andes. Here our private transport will be waiting. It’s likely we’ll arrive early and have lunch in Huaraz. Lodging in the hotel. Overnight Hotel (B/L/-)
Rest day in Huaraz. Optional: Rock climbing in Chancas
A classic location for those who like rock climbing. This area is 40 minutes north of Huaraz. It was developed thanks to the guides of Don Bosco in the Andes - a private organization formed to facilitate tourism - in 1997. It has 8 developed routes of different difficulties. This is a good place to spend a quiet day in nature and at the end visit the hot springs to relax aching muscles. Lodging in the hotel. Overnight Hotel (B/L/-)
Huaraz - Transfer to Musho (3000 m) - Trekking to Huascarán
Now the last and best mountain - the highest mountain in Peru, Huascarán. Transfer from Huaraz through the Callejón de Huaylas, the central section of the valley formed by the Santa River between the Cordillera Blanca and the Cordillera Negra. We arrive at the village of Musho, and load our luggage onto burros. From Musho it is a 4-5 hour hike to Huascarán Base Camp (4,250 m), from which we have a beautiful view of the Cordillera Negra. Overnight Camp (B/L/D)
Huascarán Base Camp - Ascend to High Camp I (5350 m)
Today we‘ll climb to High Camp 1. Porters will help us carry our camping equipment and food . From this point, the southern and northern peaks of Huascarán seem close enough to touch. Dinner and lodging in tents on the glacier. At this altitude, the temperature at night falls to as low as -13°C. Overnight Camp (B/L/D)
High Camp I - Ascend to High Camp II (Garganta, 6000 m)
Very early this morning we continue to climb over the steep section of the glacier, with crevasses, avalanches in the chutes, and an area of icefall with 50° faces requiring ice climbing. We expect to find changes to the rugged glacier because every year with the retreat of the glacier, the conditions change with regard to crevasses, bridges or new avalanches. Our porters accompany us to Camp 2 in La Garganta (“The Throat“), the saddle between the North Summit (6655 m) and the South Summit (6768 m.) We sleep in tents on the glacier. Overnight Camp (B/L/D)
High Camp II (Garganta, 6000 m) - Ascend to Huascarán Summit
Summit day! We begin our ascent very early this morning to the South Summit (6768 m) The trail takes us abruptly up, continues through many crevasses and avalanche zones until we arrive at the flat summit ridge. From here you can see all of the Cordillera Blanca, including Alpamayo to the north. The unforgettable view from the summit makes us forget all our effort to get here! After enjoying the summit and taking photos, we begin our descent back to High Camp II. If everyone still feels fine, we can descend to Base Camp (weather permitting) or stay in High Camp II. Rest one hour and begin to go down to Base Camp. Dinner and lodging in Base Camp. Time required: the ascent: 6-7 hours; descent to High Camp II: 3-4 hours; descent from High Camp II to Base Camp: 3-4 hours.Overnight Camp (B/L/D)
Reserve day in case of bad weather or to sleep in High Camp
Extra day in case of bad weather, or to remain in High Camp II.Overnight Camp (B/L/D)
Base Camp - Trekking to Musho (3000 m) - Transfer to Huaraz
Our last expedition day. Early in the morning the mule/burro drivers arrive, and after the luggage is loaded, we descend to the village of Musho, a walk of 3-4 hours. From here our private transport will be waiting to take us to Huaraz, our final destination. Here we say goodbye to our local team; have a complimentary dinner at the home of Juventino Albino Caldua - a special dish called Pachamanca. Lodging in the hotel. Overnight Camp (B/L/D)
Transfer to the bus terminal in Huaraz for the trip to Lima.
Transfer to the bus terminal in Huaraz for the trip to Lima. Options: Flight or bus.With Bus 8 Hrs 400km or Flights are via LC-Peru and last 50 minutes. Overnight on Bus (B/-/-)
Stay in Lima - transfer to the airport
Free day; depending on your departure schedule. Return to Europe or your country of origin. Overnight flight (B/-/-).
Created: Eric Albino Lliuya...
Last update: 05 Dec 2017
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