Gharserbrum 11 8027m. is one of the enchanting peak among the Karakorom Himalayan series (Pakistan). It has been described as an impressive peak, much like Cho Oyu walking to its BC, That is said to be the best trek in the world. The climbing provides a perfect mountaineering experience. G2 stands in the majestic neighborhood of K2 in a close line-up of world's highest peaks in the titanic amphitheater of Concordia that has no parity in the world.
The snow-face of the South-West Ridge presents difficulties on ice and snow mixed faces and ridges once you reach above the plateau after negotiating the heavily crevassed Gasherbrum Glacier. It has a steep way up at some sections. From above the snowy Banana Ridge you continue climbing on a series of ridges and reach a platform where camp 2 is generally settle up.
From here you climb a couple of ice pitches and then up the face going steeper before you reach the shoulder, the site of C3 at 7490m. After three pitches from there it is a diagonal way across the route from where a traverse leads to the base of the summit pyramid on the East Ridge. The climb from there is wide open with glorious surroundings but there is a few steep sections before you reach the narrow summit ridge.
2 years, Pakistan
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Difficulty: Moderate/ Challenging
Difficulty: Easy/ Moderate
Difficulty: Challenging/ Tough
Gasherbrum Expedition DETAIL ITINERARY:
Day 01: Islamabad
Arrive Islamabad. Transfer to hotel for overnight.
Day 02 Islamabad
Welcome reception (briefing) at Alpine Club of Pakistan. Overnight at hotel
Day 03 Skardu/Chilas
Fly to Skardu PK-451 (09:30 – 10:30). (Flight depends up the weather). Upon arrival transfer to hotel for overnight.
In case of cancellation of flight (12-14 hrs), driving by coach to Chilas (480 km) on Karakoram Highway. Overnight at hotel
Day 04 Chilas/Skardu
a) Day free at Skardu
b) If your are driving, complete road journey (07–08 hrs) to Skardu (275 km) En-route has good view of Nanga Parbat (8125m) at the junction of Indus River and the rapids and fall of Indus River. Overnight at hotel
Day 05 Skardu
Final shopping day at Skardu. Overnight at hotel.
Day 06 askole (3000)
By jeeps drive to Askole (6-7 hrs). The last village of about 50 houses. The villagers grow their own cereals, vegetable and fruit and own large herds of sheep's, goats, yaks. Overnight in tent
Day 07 Jhola: (3200m)
Start 4-5 hours, walk across wasteland and traverse Biafo Glacier, a tortured Ocean of moving boulders and crevasses 2 km wide. Cross the glacier and after a lunch break continue to Jhola (3-4 hrs). Cross-Dumardo River Bridge and camp at rather dusty campsite surrounded by a few bushes with a side stream. Overnight in tent
Day 08 Paiyu: (3600m)
Start on a relatively easy trail for 4-5 hrs. Crossing Bardumal campsites along a 2-km stretch of sandy River beach. After a lunch break continue towards Paiyu for another 2-3 hrs. trail climbs to a Vantage Point providing view of the Snout of Baltoro. And in the far distance a magnificent Panorama of Cathedral Towers and triangle of K2 to the left for the first time. Paiyu is a crowded campsite. Overnight in tent.
Day 09 Paiyu: (3600m)
Traditional rest day at Paiyu. Overnight at tent.
Day 10 Urdukas: (4200m)
Start for a 8-9 hrs. Gradual climb up Baltoro Glacier on the southern edge. After about two hours the path divides at the snout of Baltoro glacier where the left branch goes to the BC of Tango Tower and the Sarpo Lago pass. Continue to the right climbing up on to the glacier that extends up the valley 62 km long and 2 km wide. Further 2-3 hours steady climb on a long diagonal to the other side. 3 hours walk mostly along the crest of lateral moraine with stunning views of Paiyu Peak, Chorichi, Uli Biaho, Trango Towers and so on. Urdukas is a spectacular campsite. However like Paiyu this site is over used and polluted. Overnight at tent.
Day 11Goro II: (4500m)
8-9 hours walk on the glacier. The first hour walk is across the hard crevasses, however the way is smoother and easy in the center. Continue for 2-3 hours to Goro-I opposite of Yermanendo Glacier falling down from the Mashebrum pass. For the next 3-4 hrs continue east up is the Baltoro glacier. Following telephone wire from army HQ Goro to Gasherbrum IV. Goro-II campsite is pitched on the rough stones and ice in the center of the glacier with water from the glacier melt. Overnight at tent.
Day 12 Shagaring (4900m)
9-10 hours slightly easy walk towards Concordia, with panoramic views and gigantic mountain range, including Muztagh Tower, Gasherbrum IV, Mitre Peak and the mighty K2. Concordia named by Martin Conway after the place De La composition in Paris. After having lunch at Concordia 3-4 hours walk. You will meet some crevasses on Gasherbrum Glacier towards Shagaring. Overnight in tent.
Day 13 G-II Base Camp: (5045m)
4-5 hours walk to Gasherbrum I and II BC.
05 July – 04 August 2014 Day 14-44 (31 days) for acclimatization and climbing G-I and G-II.
Day 45 Vigne Baltoro Glacier: (4800m)
9-10 hours continue walk on Vigne Glacier, proving superb views of Chogolisa, and Mitre Peak, A rare mountain panorama and camp just below pass. Overnight at tent.
Day 46 Gondogoro-La (5940m) / Khuspang (4680m)
6-8 hrs Start very early in the morning for the tiring and steep ascend to Gondogoro la (high pass), descend to the high camp (Khuspang) on the other side. Also BC for Gondogoro Peak. Overnight in tent.
Day 47Shaie shcho: (3600m)
4-5 hours easy descends glacier Moraine to beautiful campsite of Dalzampa "field of flower". A climb to the lateral Moraine provides scenic views of glacier and jagged spires. Another 3 hours walk on the lateral moraine through wild roses, gooseberry cedar and Tamarisk bushes. The Charksa valley joins the Gondogoro at Shaieshcho and the route leads towards the base camp of K6 and K7. Overnight in tent.
Day 48 Hushe: (3300m)
3-4 hours the last day of the trek follow the east bank of Hushe River on an easy path through the field and camp out side the village.
Day 49 Islamabad/Chilas
a) Fly to Islamabad PK-452 (11:20–12:20). (Subject to weather). Upon arrival transfer to hotel.
b) In case of flight cancellation drive to Chilas. Overnight at hotel.
Day 50 Islamabad
1. Leisure day at Islamabad
2. In case of driving, complete road journey from Chilas to Islamabad. Overnight at hotel.
Day 51 Islamabad
Farewell meeting (de-briefing) at Alpine Club of Pakistan. Overnight at hotel.
Day 52 Fly Out
Transfer to airport for your return flight home.
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