This year the expedition will take place on Summer, from June, 3 till July, 15. Anton and I will go through preliminary acclimatization on Elbrus, the highest point of Europe, and our third participant Carlo Alberto Cimenti — in Italy.
In 2019, compared to Manaslu and Annapurna climbing, we will have a slightly different format of expedition. Two professional cameramen will join us in the Base Camp, — they are my countrymen from Kamchatka, Russia. We plan to shoot the slopes from drones, this will definitely help the ascent.
Following the results, we plan to release a full-length movie to be shown at cinemas; several trailers and a TV movie. For that matter, the video, dedicated to our Annapurna attempt climb in 2018, you can see by the link .
We expect a lots of work on the route, because it turns out that our expedition will be the first in Nanga Parbat Base Camp this Summer. There will be no possible help from other international teams, all route operation will fall on us. According to preliminary estimates, we take 1,200 meters of rope.
We plan our ascent along the so-called “Normal Route”. Situation with the avalanche danger, of course, is not clear for now, and we will evaluate the possibilities from drones on site. While as for today there is a chance of descent along the ascent route.
Nanga Parbat Base Camp is situated at a level of three thousand meter and a little over, so, on one hand, it is good for the rest, but rather low for climbing. In total, we plan to establish four additional camps to acclimate and climb the mountain.
This year for the first time for «Freeride in the Death Zone» project the third member of the team will join us — my old friend, the Italian climber Carl Alberto Cimenti come on board. He is a famous climber and skier, and have a very high alpine credentials, including the «Snow Leopard » title (to receive it, a mountaineer must summit all five peaks of 7,000 m and high, located in the former Soviet Union territory).
On third expedition we continue to corroborate with our good partners, with whom we succeed to develop a great relationship. Their number has increased this year, we are supported by Russian Geographical Society and Sony Corporation. Our previous partner, Thuraya satellite communication, supply us with modem with the help of which we will establish permanent communication «with the Big Land» and send information and photos online.
Gear and equipment we have are the same as in 2018: well-proven Elan skis and Salewa clothes with Gore-Tex membrane. It turned out to be very light, functional and with excellent running characteristics; this also applies to jackets and pants.
Concerning the skis — in the beginning I was a little sceptic that Elan IBEX Carbon with 184 sm length could well bear not only my weight, but my weight plus 30-kg backpack. Because in our project we not only «riding» the slopes, but descend with a lot of gear. Last year, before the Annapurna expedition, I had some concerns that the skis are a little lightweight, but it turned out to be wrong! They got good grip as on icy as well as on glazed snow, and with a 30-kilogram pack also.
This year our «mountain diet» will expand. We take with us even a box of canned fish — saury in oil by Dobroflot , because taste in the altitude is changeable and from time to time you want to eat something unusual. As sweeties we will use Honey Candies , natural holistic bate, made not with sugar, but with honey.
POWERUP sport gel will support our strengths. I have already tested it in the field, and they have proven themselves well.
The article What Mountaineers Eat During High-Altitude Climbs? you can find by the link .
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Interview: Natasha Poletaeva