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Freeride in the Death Zone. Ready Steady Go on June, 2019

Third expedition «Freeride in the Death Zone» for climbing and skiing from Nanga Parbat 8-thousander will start on June, 2019. Alpinists Vitaliy Lazo and Anton Pugovkin have great news: this year Italian mountaineer and skier Carl Alberto Cimenti will join them, and a full length movie will follow the enterprise. Read what leader of the project and mountain guide Vitaliy Lazo says about it.  

Freeride in the Death Zone. Ready Steady Go on June, 2019

History of the project, covering of Manaslu and Annapurna climbs, you can find by the link.

Vitaliy Lazo narrate

Preparation for Nanga Parbat ascent we started a year ago, even before the attempt of climbing and skiing from Annapurna on Autumn, 2018 (detailed story you can find in the Vitaliy’s blog on Mountainplanet.com — M.P.). We worked through the options, writed and consulted the people who had already been there. Studied the avalanche situation, elaborated the routes.

Freeride in the Death Zone. Ready Steady Go on June, 2019

This year the expedition will take place on Summer, from June, 3 till July, 15. Anton and I will go through preliminary acclimatization on Elbrus, the highest point of Europe, and our third participant Carlo Alberto Cimenti  — in Italy.

REFERENCE. Nanga Parbat, 8125 м/26656.82 ft, the ninth world’s highest mountain, is situated on the north-west of Himalayas, in Kashmir (Pakistan). It was the first 8-thousander in the history of alpinism, which was attempted to climb so long ago, in 1895 by English mountaineer Albert F. Mummery.

Friend of Dalai Lama and an author of the famous «7 Years in Tibet» book Heinrich Harrer try to climb Nanga Parbat in 1939; but the first successful (and solo!) ascent have been undertaken by  Austrian climber Hermann Buhl in 1953.

Many tragedies are connected with «Naked Mountain» or «Huge Mountain» (from Sanskrit and Tibetan languages). It is considered the third in alpine death rating, after Annapurna and K2. Legendary Reinhold Messner lost his young brother Günther there in 1970, and the eyes of all world were glued to the incredible rescue operation of French Elisabeth Revol on Winter, 2018.   

Vitaliy Lazo narrate

In 2019, compared to Manaslu and Annapurna climbing, we will have a slightly different format of expedition. Two professional cameramen will join us in the Base Camp, — they are my countrymen from Kamchatka, Russia. We plan to shoot the slopes from drones, this will definitely help the ascent.

Freeride in the Death Zone. Ready Steady Go on June, 2019

Following the results, we plan to release a full-length movie to be shown at cinemas; several trailers and a TV movie. For that matter, the video, dedicated to our Annapurna attempt climb in 2018, you can see by the link.

We expect a lots of work on the route, because it turns out that our expedition will be the first in Nanga Parbat Base Camp this Summer. There will be no possible help from other international teams, all route operation will fall on us. According to preliminary estimates, we take 1,200 meters of rope.

We plan our ascent along the so-called “Normal Route”. Situation with the avalanche danger, of course, is not clear for now, and we will evaluate the possibilities from drones on site. While as for today there is a chance of descent along the ascent route.

Nanga Parbat Base Camp is situated at a level of three thousand meter and a little over, so, on one hand, it is good for the rest, but rather low for climbing. In total, we plan to establish four additional camps to acclimate and climb the mountain.

This year for the first time for «Freeride in the Death Zone» project the third member of the team will join us — my old friend, the Italian climber Carl Alberto Cimenti come on board. He is a famous climber and skier, and have a very high alpine credentials, including the «Snow Leopard» title (to receive it, a mountaineer must summit all five peaks of 7,000 m and high, located in the former Soviet Union territory).

On third expedition we continue to corroborate with our good partners, with whom we succeed to develop a great relationship. Their number has increased this year, we are supported by Russian Geographical Society and Sony Corporation. Our previous partner, Thuraya satellite communication, supply us with modem with the help of which we will establish permanent communication «with the Big Land» and send information and photos  online.

Gear and equipment we have are the same as in 2018: well-proven Elan skis and Salewa clothes with Gore-Tex membrane. It turned out to be very light, functional and with excellent running characteristics; this also applies to jackets and pants.

Concerning the skis  — in the beginning I was a little sceptic that Elan IBEX Carbon with 184 sm length could well bear not only my weight, but my weight plus 30-kg backpack. Because in our project we not only «riding» the slopes, but descend with a lot of gear. Last year, before the Annapurna expedition, I had some concerns that the skis are a little  lightweight, but it turned out to be wrong! They got good grip as on icy as well as on glazed snow, and with a 30-kilogram pack also. 

This year our «mountain diet» will expand. We take with us even a box of canned fish — saury in oil by Dobroflot, because taste in the altitude is changeable and from time to time you want to eat something unusual. As sweeties we will use Honey Candies, natural holistic bate, made not with sugar, but with honey.

POWERUP sport gel will support our strengths. I have already tested it in the field, and they have proven themselves well.

Freeride in the Death Zone. Ready Steady Go on June, 2019

The article What Mountaineers Eat During High-Altitude Climbs? you can find by the link.

You can follow us on «Freeride in the Death Zone» page as well as on Mountain Planet page, and Facebook.

Interview: Natasha Poletaeva

Vitaliy Lazo: Exam Before Nanga Parbat Expedition
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