New route on Tyutyu, Central Caucasus (Russia)

Central Caucasus is quit popular place for climbing and mountaineering in Russia. Due to intensive exploration from 60s till late 80s it's became some good infrastructure for climbers and hikers. Massif of mount Tyutyu with its five peaks higher when 4000m is nice object for climbing. It offers long rock traditional and alpine climbing routes.

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The massif include five independent summits – East 4400m, Main 4460m, Central 4430m, 2d West 4420m and West 4350m. The name from local language means „barberry summit“. The most long exposed and truly alpine route are from the north side. They can be reached only on foot or by helicopter from Tyutyu-sy valley. The most rocky routes are easy reachable from the Adir-sy valley (south side). Not least because of the good rode and stationary alpine base. It's a some kind of simple hostel and camping ground it the same time. It takes only 4-5 hours to access the south face of Tyutyu from here.

I have visited that regions a couple of times during my earlier mountaineering experiences in Caucasus. But this summer I have been here as mountain guide student of Russian mountain guide school. During 10 days I could enjoy to be here again. Once after we have visited massif of Tyutyu I thought that it would be great to open a new route on one of south faces of Tytyu.

I was happy that my wife and at same time climbing partner was here as well. After the curs was finished we have moved to Tyutyu. It was so excited to explorer something new after eight years that I wasn't been here in Caucasus. We didn't know whether it possible to find any free line there. However that might be we have managed to find our line up to the summit of Tyutyu 2d West along south-east face.

We had luck with weather. The beautiful granite and good crack system lead us fast to the top. We could climb almost all sections free except of one small part. Because of the wet rock here I had to use add climbing technique. After less then 7 hours we have reached the summit. It was nice fast ascent in gorgeous scene and incredible filling to stand here on the top one more time...

Team

Maxim Fyogel (www.alpina-travel.com/maxim_foygel)

Yulia Belozerskaya

Some route numbers

Region: Central Caucasus (Russia)

Mount: 2d West summit of Tyutyu 4420m

Route: „Expromtus“ south-east face of south ridge

Grade: 5A (Russian alpine grade system) or TD 635m max 6a, A2 (5m)

Pitches

R0-R1 2 300м

R1-R2 4-5а 15м

R2-R3 5а-5с 30м

R3-R4 4-6а 35м

R4-R5 4-5b 40м

R5-R6 5а А2 15м

R6-R7 3 50м

R7-R8 3-4 150м