TRIP REPORTS

2 reports

Stop! It’s a take! Everybody free!

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Natasha Poletaeva

41 years,Russia

3 years ago

Stop! It’s a take! Everybody free!

Vitaliy Lazo shared his first impressions about climbing and skiing from the top of Nanga Parbat. GROSS ALERT.

«Hell is over at 17:30. On July, 3 we stood on the top of the most difficult mountain, Nanga Parbat. Now it’s name sounds different for me, not as it was.

Stop! It’s a take! Everybody free!

We ascended in semi-consciousness, and were totally exhausted and washed out. I do not know, how I found the strength to do it. On 7,800 meters I nearly hallucinate and started to fill presence of some kind. It seemed that I act in a movie, like the crew shooting everything and are about to say: “It’s a take! Everybody free!”.

One step — 10 inhales. One step — 15 inhales… I cursed himself, dragged, forced himself forward; recalled relatives and friends… And you helped me!

Stop! It’s a take! Everybody free!

We spend 15 minutes on top. Everything as in a fog… Is it for real?! I hugged my friends and cry...

And we were really lucky with the weather. Visibility was 100%, with the light wind. But very cold! I planned to shoot from drone, but unfortunately, there was no time, it was getting dark. However, we succeeded to film unique footage on 7,600 m and along the whole route, the movie coming soon!

I bring along to the summit my Elan Skis, drone, professional Sony Camera, microphone, voice recorder, GoPro, spare batteries. And, remember, that the ascent was completed without bottle oxygen.

Stop! It’s a take! Everybody free!

The Descent

We put on skis at 8,800 meters. I think that nobody skied from this altitude on Nanga Parbat before! The snow was awful: snow ridges, firn… It got dark in an hour later, we descended with the headlights and at 12:00 PM reached the Assault Camp. Nor Anton Pugovkin, no I can’t speak, we mooed to each other, showing on things by the hand (and I remember these moments teary-eyed).

A while later Cala Cimenti joined us. Tea, sleeping bag, sleep. This was Nanga Parbat, 2019. It seems to me that my life divided into two parts: BEFORE and AFTER».

Stop! It’s a take! Everybody free!

 

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