Natasha Poletaeva
43 years,Russia
4 years ago
Stop! It’s a take! Everybody free!
Vitaliy Lazo shared his first impressions about climbing and skiing from the top of Nanga Parbat. GROSS ALERT.
«Hell is over at 17:30. On July, 3 we stood on the top of the most difficult mountain, Nanga Parbat. Now it’s name sounds different for me, not as it was.
We ascended in semi-consciousness, and were totally exhausted and washed out. I do not know, how I found the strength to do it. On 7,800 meters I nearly hallucinate and started to fill presence of some kind. It seemed that I act in a movie, like the crew shooting everything and are about to say: “It’s a take! Everybody free!”.
One step — 10 inhales. One step — 15 inhales… I cursed himself, dragged, forced himself forward; recalled relatives and friends… And you helped me!
We spend 15 minutes on top. Everything as in a fog… Is it for real?! I hugged my friends and cry...
And we were really lucky with the weather. Visibility was 100%, with the light wind. But very cold! I planned to shoot from drone, but unfortunately, there was no time, it was getting dark. However, we succeeded to film unique footage on 7,600 m and along the whole route, the movie coming soon!
I bring along to the summit my Elan Skis, drone, professional Sony Camera, microphone, voice recorder, GoPro, spare batteries. And, remember, that the ascent was completed without bottle oxygen.
The Descent
We put on skis at 8,800 meters. I think that nobody skied from this altitude on Nanga Parbat before! The snow was awful: snow ridges, firn… It got dark in an hour later, we descended with the headlights and at 12:00 PM reached the Assault Camp. Nor Anton Pugovkin, no I can’t speak, we mooed to each other, showing on things by the hand (and I remember these moments teary-eyed).
A while later Cala Cimenti joined us. Tea, sleeping bag, sleep. This was Nanga Parbat, 2019. It seems to me that my life divided into two parts: BEFORE and AFTER».
