Manaslu Circuit, Himalaya

Arughat Bazar - Arkhet Bazar - Soti Khola. he route from Arughat Bazar to Soti Khola is quite nice. It passes several villages of different culture.

Soti Khola – Machha Khola. The trail continues on the west bank of the deeply incised valley of Budhi Gandaki river and undulates over ridges, passing waterfalls on a steep trail sometimes clinging to the side of a cliff. It then drops to the rice paddies and climb again to the attractive Gurung village of Labubesi. The valley opens out and the trail drops onto gravel banks and then rises to the village of Machha (Fish) Khola above the river – with good views of the 7,000m Ganesh Himal.

Machha Khola – Dobhan. The narrow trail follows moderate ups and downs, or drops to the gravel bar before crossing the Thado Khola and following a rocky ravine to Khorlabesi. After more ups and downs there is a small hot spring at Tatopani. The trail then climbs a ridge before crossing to the east bank of the Budhi Gandaki on a suspension bridge. A good staircase leads to a landslide before a final ridge to Dobhan.

Dobhan – Philim. The trail follows the east bank to a 93m suspension bridge over the Yaru Khola, then climbs stone stairs up and back to the Budhi Gandaki. Here it crosses to the west bank of the river, climbs a ridge and follows the river gently upwards to the old village of Jagat: entrance to the Manaslu Conservation Area. Then it descends to Sirdibas (entrance to the Manaslu border area, where special permit is checked). Another suspension bridge leads to the east bank, where the trail climbs up to Philim (about 100 m), a prosperous Gurung village.

Philim – Deng. The trail signposted to the Larkya La leads from Philim to Ekle Bhatti through attractive forest. Then it traverses high above a spectacular gorge, entering a largely uninhabited area of pine trees and the drops to a trail junction at New Bridge. The right hand trail leads to the Tsum Valley. The trail of this trek crosses the Budhi Gandaki and enter its narrow gorge on an up-and-down trail with river crossings. After a suspension bridge the trail enters bamboo forest and rises to the village of Deng.

Deng – Namrung. Beyond Deng the trail goes through the forest and then drops down to the Budhi Gandaki and crosses it. On the east bank it climbs to Rana and then up to Bihi Phedi. The trail continues in and out of canyons and through dense forests with little habitation. After crossing the Serang Khola it rises steeply, then traverses above the river (now in a deep gorge) before undulating through forest to the fields of Ghap. A bridge crosses the river to the south bank where it thunders down a gorge and beyond which the forest thins and the trail becomes easier. Further upstream, the Budhi is joined by the substantial Tum Khola flowing in a deep gorge. The trail then crosses the river twice before climbing steeply through bamboo and rhododendron forest to Namrung.

Namrung – Lho. The trail continues through forest to Lihi, a village with great views of Himal Chuli to the south. The trail then drops and crosses a side-valley and the Hinang Khola (where a trail leads south to the Himal Chuli BC). Beyond the bridge it rises sharply to the village of Sho. And then there is a final steep pull to the ridge and the large village of Lho. There are spectacular views of Manaslu and surrounding peaks.

Lho – Samagaon. The Budi Gandaki now flows far below in the valley. Then the trail drops to cross a bridge over the tributary of Budi Gandaki and follows upwards through shady pine forests. Then a short climb to a plateau and the sadly deforested village of Shyala. Huge mountains surround it. Further on, the trail crosses a bridge over the Numla Khola that drains the Pungyen Glacier from Manaslu (there is a trail to Pungyen gompa). In some time the trail goes down to the village of Samagaon.

Rest and Exploration day: Samagaon – Pungyen Gompa / Manaslu Base Camp. The village itself is worth exploring. Also there are two one-day routes for better adaptation: towards the Manaslu Base Camp (about 10 hours) or towards the Pung Gyen Gompa (about 12 gours).

Samagaon – Samdo. The trail descends to the Budhi Gandaki, that has turned north, and passes the lake and Base Camp trail. The valley begins to widen. This is an easy trail along a shelf above the river through juniper and birch forests that surround Kermo Kharka. Further on, the trail drops to cross the Budhi Gandaki on a wooden bridge before climbing steeply onto a promontory above the confluence of the river with the Mayol Khola to the village of Samdo.

Samdo – Dharamsala. A wide gentle trail passes fields of wheat, prayer flags and then descends to the river, crosses a wooden bridge and climbs upwards, over two streams, before the first sight of the Larkya Glacier. Now it works its way around and up the valley of the Salka Khola before climbing up to the stone guest house on the Larkya La Phedi named Dharamsala.

Dharamsala – Larkya La (5160 m) – Bimthang. The trail along the northern moraine of the Larkya Glacier is not difficult but is long and rocky. From Dharamsala, it rises gently to a ridge followed by a long gentle climb to the moraine. A short climb leads to an ablation valley followed by a drop to pass four frozen lakes, before a gradual ascent up the glacial moraine that becomes steeper on the final pull to the summit. The descent begins from the top of the moraine near a deep gully, beyond which it drops steeply on long loose scree slopes above the Salpudanda Glacier. Later this eases onto grassy moraines beyond a rock fall around Tabuche Kharka to more level, grassy slopes. It then follows a lateral moraine into the widening valley that leads to the village of Bimthang.

Bimthang – Gho. A further descent goes through beautiful forests and offers splendid views. The trail begins with a climb onto the lateral moraine above Bimthang, a walk along its crest, a drop to cross the glacier, then up to enter pristine rhododendron and pine forest. Then it descends rapidly along the right bank of the Dudh Khola. Beyond Karche is a flood related landslide, more terraced fields and a steep ridge climb before dropping to the first substantial village of Gho.

Gho – Tal. A nice trail leads to the village of Tilje. Then it crosses to the left bank of the river before descending rapidly towards the Marsyangdi Valley through scrub forest. Beyond Thonje the trail returns to the right bank and then climbs to cross the Marsyangdi Khola on a suspension bridge before joining the new road along the main Annapurna Circuit. Turn left for Dharapani. Further south, cross back to the left bank and old trail, and climb away from the river to the delightful village of Tal.

Tal – Jagat. From here you descend to cross a bridge over the river to meet the road from where a bus or jeep can be taken to Besi Sahar. Or you can take alternative trails (avoiding the road) and reach the village Jagat and only then take a bus or a jeep.