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Normal Route, Aconcagua (6 962 m / 22 831 ft)

Mountain: Aconcagua (6 962 m / 22 831 ft)
Activity type: Mountaineering
Activity level: Challenging
Elevation: 6 000 m / 19 685 ft
Duration: 17 Day(s)
Expenses: from$ 3 500
Image of Normal Route, Aconcagua (6 962 m / 22 831 ft)
Credit: www.7summits-club.com

Overview

Route Name: Normal Route, Ruta Normal, routa normale, Northwest Ridge, Северо-Западное Ребро, Стандартный Маршрут
Activity type: Mountaineering
Activity level: Challenging
Type of Climb: Snow & Ice & Rock
Location: South America, Argentina: (Mendoza)
Starting Point: -32°-49'-25.179''S
-69°-56'-31.968''W
Parent Range: Argentina-Chile Andes
Mountain: Aconcagua (6 962 m / 22 831 ft)
First Ascent: 14/1/1897 Matthias Zurbriggen (Switzerland)
Duration: 17 Day(s)
Max. Elevation: 6 000m / 19 685 ft
Vertical Gain: 2 712m / 8 898 ft
Length: 108km / 67 miles
Climbing Season(s): 15 Nov-29 Feb;
Nearst
Airport(s):
Comodoro Arturo Merino Benítez Santiago International Airport (SCL)
Convenience Center(s): Mendoza, Santiago
National
Park(s):
Aconcagua Provincial Park

Location

South America, Argentina: (Mendoza)
  • Your Chance To Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    Ascent to Aconcagua is an unique opportunity for those who do not have high-altitude mountaineering skills to taste and smell the air up to 7 000 meters above sea level. For example, to find yourself on the same altitude somewhere in the Himalayas, Karakoram and Pamir, you will need several years of training and a special high-altitude equipment. Well, in addition to the above, it is an opportunity to climb one of the 7 Summits, which rightfully occupies first place in the ratings of several heights - it is the highest mountain in the whole of the Americas, the highest point in the Western Hemisphere and the highest mountain in the Southern Hemisphere.
  • Description Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    Flight to Mendoza International Airport (Argentina). Take a car or bus to Puente del Inca or Penitentes. The entrance to the Aconcagua Provincial Park where Normal Route begins is at Puenta del Inca.
  • Getting There Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    "Normal Route" is one of the most popular route to the summit of the highest point of South America. It has well-developed infrastructure and every year attract thousandth of tourists. Up to base camp Plaza de Mulas all carry loads are done by mules. Above base camp climbers to carry their loads themselves or involve porters. Keep in mind that the number of porters on the mountain is limited so you have to negotiate with them at least two or three days prior the ascent. The Base Camp Plaza de Mulas is one of the most comfortable place in the world which can be found at this altitude. For a small fee you can take a hot shower, use the services of two or three Internet-cafes, have a meal in one of the tent-restaurants and even make a sip of beer at the Refuge "Hotel" bar. Do not drink unboiled water even if it's water from the glacial stream. Always use boiled, bottled or purified water. Above the base camp the most part of the climbing goes on scree. There are no permanent snow fields on the Normal Route, but crampons and ice axe could be very required in some sections. If you are lucky then the last 300 meters (1 000 feet) of vertical gain will be covered by ice and snow - cramponing up is much easier than scrambling on a loose scree after a dry winter.
  • Red Tape Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    You must go to Mendoza (Argentina) to get your climbing permit and fill all necessary forms in person. Permits are sold at SUBSECRETARÍA DE TURISMO only. Address in Mendoza is på San Martín 1143. It's pretty close to the to Plaza Independencia. The permits can not be bought either at Puente de Inca or Punta de Vacas. Anywhere inside the park, the permit or the receipt may be required to be shown.
  • Are You Ready? Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    You will need to build a high degree of strength endurance, high-altitude tolerance, and strong cardiovascular conditioning. Just because you exercise regularly (four to six times per week) does not mean you have the conditioning needed to reach the summit of Aconcagua. Plenty of people who have the endurance to run a marathon or compete in triathlons fail to summit high-altitude peaks. Pure cardiovascular fitness is simply not enough. Focus on building the physical conditioning necessary to ascend 1 000 meters (3 500 feet) of vertical elevation gain on successive days carrying 20-25 kg (45-50 pounds). This trip includes a 30-mile approach trek over 3 days involving mule support, so you can enjoy the trek without extreme loads, and double carries, to keep pack weight down to allow for better acclimatization.
  • Tips Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    The route conditions very varies from year to year - sometimes climbers have to struggle with deep snow starting from the Plaza de Mulas. If the winter was dry you probably even wouldn't take your crampons out from your backpack. But anyway you have to be ready for the most unpleasant situation - even during the warmest month (February) a huge snowfalls and hurricane winds can happen. There were times when climbers could not leave their tents for several days because of the wind and were waiting for the end of the storm somewhere in camp at the altitude of 5 200 meters. In 99 cases out of 100, you will need crampons to approach from the summit camp to the summit. Be very careful when passing couloir "La Caneleta" - sometimes it could be so icy that local guides even were forced to fix some ropes there.
  • Parameters Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    Base Camp Elevation: 4 250 m / 13 944 ft
    Summit Camp Elevation: Please update
    Accommodation in Base Camp: Tents only
    Accommodation above Base Camp: Please update
    Number of Camps: 3
    Avg. Cost: 3 500 USD
    Age Restrictions: 18
    Soloing: Yes
    Avg. Descent Time: Please update
  • Key Points Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    Name (Elevation) Description
    Penitentes
    2 700 m / 8 858 tf
    Small city near the entrance to the Aconcagua Provincial Park. As a rule climbers have an overnight at Penitentens' hotels before crossing the border of the park.
    Horcones
    2 950 m / 9 678 tf
    Ranger's Station at the entrance of the Aconcagua Provincial Park. Here your climbing permit will be checked by rangers.
    Confluencia
    3 368 m / 11 050 tf
    Intermediate Camp located above national park entrance. It has a volley-ball court, tent-cafe and shower. Usually climbers spend a couple of nights here to acclimatize before approaching the Base Camp.
    Plaza Francia
    4 200 m / 13 780 tf
    Base Camp for those who are going to climb Aconcagua South Face.
    Plaza de Mulas
    4 250 m / 13 944 tf
    Plaza de Mulas is the biggest base camp in Aconcagua Park. It has some tent-restaurants, Internet-cafes, hot shower service and even a bar that situated by 20 minutes walk in the Refuge "Hotel".
    Canada
    4 900 m / 16 076 tf
    The camp situated above base camp Plaza de Mulas. Doesn't have any infrastructure.
    Nido de Condores
    5 400 m / 17 717 tf
    The camp situated above Camp Canada on a huge plateau. Sometimes it may be snow covered.
    Berlin
    5 900 m / 19 357 tf
    The alternative high camp situated above Nido de Condores and below Camp Colera. Usually there are less windy than at Colera but the summit push from Berlin takes about 1 hour more than from Colera.
    Colera (High Camp)
    6 000 m / 19 685 tf
    The main high camp situated above Nido de Condores and Berlin. It's located at the narrow field on the small col of the North Ridge. Sometimes may be covered by snow.
    Independencia Refuge
    6 500 m / 21 326 tf
    A tiny wooden cabin situated above the High Camp. In general it's used as a shelter.
    Caneleta
    6 700 m / 21 982 tf
    Steep scree couloir that leads to the summit ridge. Sometimes may be icy or snow covered.
  • Agencies Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates


    Guided Tours

  • GPS-Tracks

    Aconcagua_Normal_Route.gpx
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    Mountain Planet
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  • Did You Know Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    The most common question which newbies ask themselves after summiting Mount Kilimanjaro is "What's next?". Aconcagua has the answer in the form of climbing the Normal Route. It's believed that this is the ideal way to refine your high-altitude climbing skills.

     

  • References Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

Last update: Sergey Kofanov (06 Dec 2016) • History
Pavel Vorobiev

 Pavel Vorobiev 

50 years, Kyrgyzstan

Guide

12000

Mountaineering, Hiking, Rock Climbing, Ice Climbing, Backcountry Skiing
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