Normal Route, Chimborazo (6 310 m / 20 702 ft)

Chimborazo will always be a special mountain because its summit, along with summit of Everest, tops the list of the "most-most" world's mountains. No doubt that Everest is the highest mountain of the world but Chimborazo holds a top position in the list of the farthest points of the Earth's center. Climbing Chimborazo requires good physical conditions, excellent acclimatization and cramponing skill and it is one of the "classic" one-day-ascent along with the Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn. In addition, a trip to Ecuador will allow you to combine Chimborazo with ascents to other distinguished volcanoes such as Cotopaxi or Antisana. Well, fans of diving at the most remote parts of our planet can go to the Galapagos after the climbing as well.

The Normal Route is the most popular route to Chimborazo and it goes via both the highest summits of the volcano - Whymper and Veintimilla. Depending on snow conditions the route can be classified as a snow and ice route but sometimes in case of absence of snow the route is required special ice climbing equipment. Typically, the ascent to the summit of Chimborazo starts from the Whymper refuge located at the altitude of 5030 meters. But in some cases the climbers spend the night in the Carrel Refuge located below at the altitude 4850 meters. Overnight at the Carrel's adds about an hour to your summit day but in this case you don't need to carry all your stuff from the parking lot to the Whymper Refuge. A 10-minute walk up from the Whymper Refuge is situated a small scree field which is normally used as the campground. After leaving the Whymper Refuge you should stay a bit to the left, gaining the elevation on the gentle scree slopes up to the west side of Tilman's Glacier. Then you have to climb on snow and ice slope to the Castillo Saddle. The path here is usually interspersed by rocks and frozen scree - the crampons might be required. After reaching the Saddle you should climb on the wide snow and ice ridge to the right towards the volcano's dome. The steepness of the ridge varies widely but sometimes can reach 40 degrees. Be very careful on the ridge because huge crevasses could be hidden by snow. At the height of 5900 meters the ridge becomes more gentle and leads you soon to the Veintimilla Summit. The most part of the climbers start their descent after reaching this point due to the threat of crevasses on the route to the Whymper (Main) Summit. To get from this point to the main summit you will need about an hour. The descent path goes via the same route and takes up to 5 hours. In average the climb requires up to 14-16 hours but this time is very depends on your acclimatization. Be extremely careful during the descent from the Castillo Saddle - after noon the danger of rockfall here is very high.

From the capital city Quito to Riobamba by car or by bus and from there to the entrance of the "Chimborazo Reserve". Then you have to drive to the parking lot near the Carrel Refuge located at 4850 meters. Usually same day climbers go further to the Whymper Refuge (5030 meters, apx. 30-40 minutes) where they spend an overnight before summit push.

Since the end of 2012 climbing all the volcanoes of Ecuador are not allowed without hiring an accredited local mountain guides. There is a lot of travel agencies in Quito that can help you with the organization of the climb.

Requirements to your mountaineering skills and fitness are strongly depend on the route's conditions. If there is no snow on the mountain, you'll climb for hours on steep ice slopes that may require front-pointing on the steepest sections. For safety it is necessary to organize the belay points (ice screws), that can definitely takes additional time. You should be roped up all the way from the Castillo Saddle to the Whymper summit. The descent on the steep ice slopes is also a difficult challenge and makes high demands on your cramponing skill. Perfect condition of the route it is when the slopes of the volcano are covered with a small amount of dense snow - climbing gets much easier and safer, the organization of belay points is usually not required. If there are a lot of loose snow on the slopes, then the climb can also be difficult, and there is a real threat of avalanches. Pay extra attention to your acclimatization - overnight stay at an altitude of 5030 meters, as well as reaching the summit of 6310 meters are possible only if you have an excellent acclimatization. The acclimatization process usually takes 6-8 days. As a rule, before Cotopaxi climbers do an ascent to the Illiniza Norte and Cotopaxi.

Cellular Network: No

The level of climbing is highly depends on the route conditions. Sometimes you may need to bring with you special snow and ice equipment such as ice screws and snow bars. Start your climb at midnight - in this case you will pass the most dangerous part of the route (ascent to the Castillo Pass) in the coldest time of the day when the danger of rockfall is minimal. Try to reach the summit with the sunrise and begin the descent in the morning. Usually Chimborazo is covered by clouds after noon and it might be hard to find the right descent trail on the wide snow and ice ridge.

Base Camp Elevation:	5 030 m / 16 503 ft
Summit Camp Elevation:	Please update
Accommodation in Base Camp:	Tents only
Accommodation above Base Camp:	Both - huts and tents
Number of Camps:	Please update
Avg. Cost:	3 000 USD
Age Restrictions:	At least 21 years old
Soloing:	No, at least 0 people
Descent Route:	Another Route -Please update
Specify descent time:	5 Hour(s)

Name (Elevation)	Description
Refuge Carrel 4 850 m / 15 912 tf	Big mountain hut located near the parking lot. Can accommodate up to 50 people.
Refuge Whymper 5 030 m / 16 503 tf	Mountain hut located in 30 minutes walking distance upper the parking lot. It provides up to 50 bunk-beds.
Moraine Camp 5 050 m / 16 568 tf	Scree field near the Whymper Refuge. It's good for making a tent camp.
Castillo Saddle 5 400 m / 17 717 tf	The Col on the Chimborazo southwest ridge. The name comes from the big rock on the Col that looks like a castle. Sometimes climbers do a high camp here to get more acclimatization and to reduce the route length at the summit day.
Veintimilla Summit 6 268 m / 20 564 tf	One of the two highest volcano's summits. The most part of the climbers start their descent after reaching this point due to the threat of crevasses on the route to the Whymper (Main) Summit.
Whymper Summit 6 310 m / 20 702 tf	The highest (Main) summit of Chimborazo.

Guided Tours

• Alpine Ascent International

In 2008 the eruption of Tungurahua, which located 40 kilometers east of the Chimborazo, changed the conditions of all the routes to the Chimborazo. Ash and dust from the eruption covered the Chimborazo's slopes and caused severe melting of snow that turned it slopes in a glaciated shell. The most popular routes to Chimborazo immediately became much more difficult and more than 90% of climbers canceled their expeditions to the highest mountain of Ecuador.

 

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