Route
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North Face, Iliniza (5 263 m / 17 267 ft)

Mountain: Iliniza (5 263 m / 17 267 ft)
Activity type: Mountaineering
Activity level: Easy/ Moderate
Elevation: 4 400 m / 14 436 ft
Duration: 2 Day(s)
Expenses: from$ 500

Overview

Route Name:
North Face, Северный Склон
Activity type:
Mountaineering
Activity level:
Easy/ Moderate
Type of Climb:
Rock
Location:
South America, Ecuador: (Provincia de Pichincha)
Starting Point:
Parent Range:
Mountain:
First Ascent:
1/1/2015
Duration:
2 Day(s)
Max. Elevation:
4 400m / 14 436 ft
Vertical Gain:
726m / 2 382 ft
Length:
10km / 6 miles
Climbing Season(s):
15 Nov-28 Feb;
01 Jun-31 Aug;
Nearst
Airport(s):
Please update
Convenience Center(s):
National
Park(s):

Location

South America, Ecuador: (Provincia de Pichincha)
Guided Tour

Location: Ecuador

Price: $1440
8 Day(s)

Activity type:Mountaineering

Difficulty: Challenging

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Guided Tour

Location: Ecuador

Price: $540
3 Day(s)

Activity type:Hiking

Difficulty: Moderate

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Guided Tour

Location: Ecuador

Price: $230
2 Day(s)

Activity type:Mountaineering

Difficulty: Easy/ Moderate

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  • Your Chance To Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    Ascent to the North Summit of Iliniza unofficially holds the first place in popularity among all ascents to Ecuadorian volcanoes. The normal route via the southeast ridge does not require any mountaineering skills and provides the easy climb to the mountain summit raised above 5000 meters. As a rule climbers come to Iliniza to get good acclimatization needed for climbing taller volcanoes such as Chimborazo and Cotopaxi.
  • Description Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    The North Face route to Iliniza North does not require any climbing skills and can be done anybody who has a good physical fitness. The climb usually takes 2 days. The route starts from the parking lot "La Virgen" located at 3900 meters near the El Chaipi city. Approach from the parking lot to the campsite at 4400 takes up to the 2-3 hours. To carry your loads from the parking lot to the campsite you can hire porters or horses. Depending on the route condition the climb may require some climbing equipment such as a harness, rope and carabiners, but in general above the refuge route goes on gentle rocky slopes of south-eastern ridge. Rocks here are very loose so be extremely careful and always keep an eye on the groups that are above you cause they may accidentally pull on you a rockfall. The helmet is obligatory throughout the summit day and descent.
  • Getting There Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    From Quito by bus or car to the city El Chaupi and then proceed to the La Virgen parking lot located at 3900 meters in Illinizas Ecological Reserve.
  • Red Tape Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    Since the end of 2012 climbing all the volcanoes of Ecuador are not allowed without hiring an accredited local mountain guides. There is a lot of travel agencies in Quito that can help you with the organization of the climb.
  • Are You Ready? Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    Pay extra attention to your acclimatization - overnight stay at an altitude of 4400 meters, as well as reaching the summit of 5126 meters are possible only if you have an excellent acclimatization. The acclimatization process usually takes 3-4 days. As a rule, before Iliniza climbers do an ascent to the peak Pasachoa.
  • Tips Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    To deliver your stuff from the parking lot to the campsite you can use porters or arrange horses. Weather is more stable during the night and in the morning, so climbers usually start climbing at 4 am. Rocks on the southeast ridge are very loose so be extremely careful and always keep an eye on the groups that are above you cause they may accidentally pull on you a rockfall. Put your helmets on when you reach the ridge. The couloir "Pass of Death" sometimes could be icy or snow covered and be difficult to climb. In some cases you may necessary to fix some ropes here.
  • Parameters Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    Base Camp Elevation: 3 900 m / 12 795 ft
    Summit Camp Elevation: Please update
    Accommodation in Base Camp: Tents only
    Accommodation above Base Camp: Tents only
    Number of Camps: Please update
    Avg. Cost: 500 USD
    Age Restrictions: At least 21 years old
    Soloing: No, at least 0 people
    Avg. Descent Time: Please update
  • Key Points Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    Name (Elevation) Description
    Parking lot "La Virgen"
    3 900 m / 12 795 tf
    The parking lot is located at 3900 meters in 9 km of the El Chaupi.
    El Paso de la Muerte (Pass of Death)
    5 050 m / 16 568 tf
    Steep scree couloir located on the summit ridge. Sometimes could be covered by ice and snow so you may need to fix some ropes here.
  • Agencies Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates


    Guided Tours

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  • Did You Know Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    Iliniza Norte unofficially holds the top position in popularity among all ascents to Ecuadorian volcanoes because it's actively used by climbers as a part of acclimatization preparation for the ascent to the higher volcanoes of Ecuador - Cotopaxi, Chimborazo and Kayambe. The North Face route does not require   ... Read more
  • References Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

Last update: (07 Oct 2015) • History
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Day 1


The route starts from the parking lot "La Virgen", situated at 3900 meters in 9 kilometers from the El Chaupi. The first 3 km go through the alpine meadows on the well-recognized trail. Before getting to the scree ridge you h ave to keep right till the campground located at 4400. The trail can be seen clearly from the base of this ridge, heading north towards the creek.

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Day 2


Wake up early and be on the trail before 5 am. You’ll be hiking diagonally up on very steep loose scree until gaining the north east shoulder of Illiniza North. Once there, the route continues up by steep rocky sections until it joins with the Normal Route right below the summit pyramid, at the last steep gully. The descent route is the same.

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