Southeast Ridge, Iliniza (5 263 m / 17 267 ft)

Ascent to the North Summit of Iliniza unofficially holds the first place in popularity among all ascents to Ecuadorian volcanoes. The normal route via the southeast ridge does not require any mountaineering skills and provides the easy climb to the mountain summit raised above 5000 meters. By the way you will get the new experience of having an overnight in the refuge located at 4700 meters above sea level. As a rule climbers come to Iliniza to get good acclimatization needed for climbing taller volcanoes such as Chimborazo and Cotopaxi.

The Southeast Ridge route to Iliniza North does not require any climbing skills and can be done anybody who has a good physical fitness. The climb usually takes 2 days. The route starts from the parking lot "La Virgen" located at 3900 meters near the El Chaipi city. Approach from the parking lot to the Iliniza Refuge (Nuevos Horizontes Hut) takes up to the 3-5 hours. The refuge is situated at the 4700 meters on the wide saddle between South and North summits. To carry your loads from the parking lot to the refuge you can hire porters or horses. Depending on the route condition the climb may require some climbing equipment such as a harness, rope and carabiners, but in general above the refuge route goes on gentle rocky slopes of south-eastern ridge. Rocks here are very loose so be extremely careful and always keep an eye on the groups that are above you cause they may accidentally pull on you a rockfall. The helmet is obligatory throughout the summit day and descent.

From Quito by bus or car to the city El Chaupi and then proceed to the La Virgen parking lot located at 3900 meters in Illinizas Ecological Reserve.

Since the end of 2012 climbing all the volcanoes of Ecuador are not allowed without hiring an accredited local mountain guides. There is a lot of travel agencies in Quito that can help you with the organization of the climb.

Pay extra attention to your acclimatization - overnight stay at an altitude of 4700 meters, as well as reaching the summit of 5126 meters are possible only if you have an excellent acclimatization. The acclimatization process usually takes 3-4 days. As a rule, before Iliniza climbers do an ascent to the peak Pasachoa.

Cellular Network: Yes (Accomodation)

Mobile Internet: Yes (Due to the fact of proximity to the capital city and other surrounding cities, cellular network covers the most part of the route.)

To deliver your stuff from the parking lot to the refuge you can use porters or arrange horses. Weather is more stable during the night and in the morning, so climbers usually start climbing at 4 am. Rocks on the southeast ridge are very loose so be extremely careful and always keep an eye on the groups that are above you cause they may accidentally pull on you a rockfall. Put your helmets on when you reach the ridge. The couloir "Pass of Death" sometimes could be icy or snow covered and be difficult to climb. In some cases you may necessary to fix some ropes here. The descent can be done by the same route or you can use the "North Face" route which is safer and takes less time to reach the parking lot. Using "North Face" route for descent will force you to carry all your stuff to the summit or you need to organize its delivery down from the refuge.

Base Camp Elevation:	3 900 m / 12 795 ft
Summit Camp Elevation:	Please update
Accommodation in Base Camp:	Tents only
Accommodation above Base Camp:	Both - huts and tents
Number of Camps:	1
Avg. Cost:	500 USD
Age Restrictions:	At least 21 years old
Soloing:	No, at least 0 people
Descent Route:	Another Route -Please update
Specify descent time:	5 Hour(s)

Name (Elevation)	Description
Parking lot "La Virgen" 3 900 m / 12 795 tf	The parking lot is located at 3900 meters in 9 km of the El Chaupi.
Refuge "Iliniza" 4 700 m / 15 420 tf	Refuge is located on the wide scree saddle between North and South Ilinizas at 4700 meters. It can accommodate up to 25 people and has all facilities needed such as bunk-beds, toilet and kitchen. There is a small scree field near the refuge which can be used as a campground.
El Paso de la Muerte (Pass of Death) 5 050 m / 16 568 tf	Steep scree couloir located on the summit ridge. Sometimes could be covered by ice and snow so you may need to fix some ropes here.

Guided Tours

• 7 Summits Club

Iliniza Norte unofficially holds the top position in popularity among all ascents to Ecuadorian volcanoes because it's actively used by climbers as a part of acclimatization preparation for the ascent to the higher volcanoes of Ecuador - Cotopaxi, Chimborazo and Kayambe. The normal route via the southeast ridge does not require any mountaineering skills and provides the easy climb to the mountain summit raised above 5000 meters. By the way you will get the new experience of having an overnight in the refuge located at 4700 meters above sea level.

 

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