|Mountain:||Iliniza (5 263 m / 17 267 ft)|
|Activity level:||Easy/ Moderate|
|Elevation:||4 700 m / 15 420 ft|
Southeast Ridge, Normal Route, Ruta Normale, Стандартный Маршрут, Юго-Восточное Ребро
|Type of Climb:||
South America, Ecuador: (Provincia de Pichincha)
4 700m / 15 420 ft
1 226m / 4 022 ft
11km / 7 miles
|Climbing Season(s):||Please update|
Difficulty: Easy/ Moderate
Difficulty: Moderate/ Challenging
Difficulty: Moderate/ Challenging
Cellular Network: Yes (Accomodation)
Mobile Internet: Yes (Due to the fact of proximity to the capital city and other surrounding cities, cellular network covers the most part of the route.)
To deliver your stuff from the parking lot to the refuge you can use porters or arrange horses. Weather is more stable during the night and in the morning, so climbers usually start climbing at 4 am. Rocks on the southeast ridge are very loose so be extremely careful and always keep an eye on the groups that are above you cause they may accidentally pull on you a rockfall. Put your helmets on when you reach the ridge. The couloir "Pass of Death" sometimes could be icy or snow covered and be difficult to climb. In some cases you may necessary to fix some ropes here. The descent can be done by the same route or you can use the "North Face" route which is safer and takes less time to reach the parking lot. Using "North Face" route for descent will force you to carry all your stuff to the summit or you need to organize its delivery down from the refuge.
|Base Camp Elevation:||3 900 m / 12 795 ft|
|Summit Camp Elevation:||Please update|
|Accommodation in Base Camp:||Tents only|
|Accommodation above Base Camp:||Both - huts and tents|
|Number of Camps:||1|
|Avg. Cost:||500 USD|
|Age Restrictions:||At least 21 years old|
|Soloing:||No, at least 0 people|
|Descent Route:||Another Route -Please update|
|Specify descent time:||5 Hour(s)|
Parking lot "La Virgen"
3 900 m / 12 795 tf
|The parking lot is located at 3900 meters in 9 km of the El Chaupi.|
4 700 m / 15 420 tf
|Refuge is located on the wide scree saddle between North and South Ilinizas at 4700 meters. It can accommodate up to 25 people and has all facilities needed such as bunk-beds, toilet and kitchen. There is a small scree field near the refuge which can be used as a campground.|
El Paso de la Muerte (Pass of Death)
5 050 m / 16 568 tf
|Steep scree couloir located on the summit ridge. Sometimes could be covered by ice and snow so you may need to fix some ropes here.|
The route starts from the parking lot "La Virgen", situated at 3900 meters in 9 kilometers from the El Chaupi. The first 3 km go through the alpine meadows on the well-recognized trail. Then you'll climb up a long scree slope, that will lead you in a 2-3 hours to the refuge "Ilinitza". The refuge is located on the wide saddle between North and South Ilinizas.
Wake up early and be on route about 4 am. The trail to the southeast ridge could be well beaten depending on the climbing season. Always keep your way up unless you find a few steep sections to negotiate. You’ll get to the base of a false summit where you may need to make a traverse to the north. After traversing and going down a bit, you’ll find yourself at Paso de la Muerte (Pass of Death). This is a steep rocky gully that can be easily climbed with caution, especially if there’s some ice/snow on it. Keep traversing all the way north below the true summit which can be seen right above. A last steep gully should be climbed in order to access to the last short traverse, located a few meters below the summit, which is marked with an iron cross.
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