via Linda Glacier, Mount Cook (3 754 m / 12 316 ft)

The spectacular peaks of the Aoraki/Mount Cook region have attracted climbers from all over the world for the last 100 years. The dramatic nature of these mountains provides a rare challenge. The combination of heavy glaciation, tremendous vertical scale and unpredictable weather means that they are not readily won. To climb successfully here requires skill, fitness, patience, and a great respect for the mountains. However, the rewards are commensurate with the demands of attempting these mountains - the experience of standing on the summit of one of New Zealand’s major peaks is a rare privilege.

Probably around 80% of all ascents (and 90% of descents), both guided and recreational, use the Linda Glacier route. The Linda Glacier is the most straight-forward route, and offers the best chance to reach the high peak. The Linda Glacier route is always challenging, and not to be underestimated. The Linda Glacier is relatively low-angled. Up to the Linda Shelf there is some objective hazard from ice cliffs on Mt Silberhorn. A steady and efficient pace must be maintained to minimise the risk from ice fall. To reach the Linda Shelf the “Gun Barrels” must be traversed, and on the shelf itself, the “Mini Gun Barrels” crossed. Both areas are subject to danger from falling ice debris. Steady, rapid movement is required in these places. Climbers will normally be moving together until the Linda shelf steepens. The last 50 to 100 metres is pitched climbing, on 40° to 45° ice up to the base of the Summit Rocks. Try to be at this point just after dawn. The Summit Rocks are normally iced up, but can be a rock climb in late summer. 3 or 4 pitches are belayed to the summit ice-cap. Conditions on the ice-cap vary from soft snow-ice to solid “boiler plate” ice. This section to the summit can be time consuming, and always requires concentration and care. Usually it is only necessary to belay short sections. The descent (by the same route) usually takes 7-10 hours. The descent requires concentration and good crampon technique down the ice-cap. Speed through the Gun Barrel section is essential, as warmer temperatures will soften the snow, increasing the risk of avalanche.

The easiest way from Mount Cook Village is to take a ski-plane or heli to the Grand Plateau. Otherwise you may take a walk/climb to Plateau Hut, however it is a strenuous exercise of 1.5 days. Flying in makes the best use of available good weather.

There is no permit required for climbing Mount Cook. However, ff you are going to use the Plateau Hut you have to pay a small fee.

There is no “easy” route up Aoraki/Mount Cook. The Linda Glacier is the most commonly guided route. This is a long and serious undertaking. The Linda Glacier route involves traveling amongst crevasses and across snow bridges, steep exposed snow slopes, belayed two-tool ice, and mixed climbing. The Linda Glacier route is graded at NZ Alpine Grade 3+. This is equivalent to European AD level. In European terms the climb is comparable to routes on Mont Blanc from the Italian side. For North America the closest parallel is Liberty Ridge on Mount Rainier. Prerequisite Experience: At least 10 days on crampons within the past 2 years Experience climbing with 2 tools on 45º to 50º snow and ice Experience of several 16-20 hour days on alpine ascents (NZ Alpine 1+ to 2+) Previous glacier travel experience Competence on rock - seconding to Australian 14, or US 5.7 A high level of aerobic fitness - able to carry an 8 kg backpack 1,000 vertical metres in 2.5 hours

Cellular Network: No (Guided Tours)

Summit day demands an alpine start (01:00 am) due to ice avalanches along the route. Due to this issue you must reach the base of the Summit Rocks just after dawn. Booking of Plateau Hut not required - first come, first served. You have to pay 36 NZD at Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park Visitor Centre.

Base Camp Elevation:	2 500 m / 8 202 ft
Summit Camp Elevation:	Please update
Accommodation in Base Camp:	Both - huts and tents
Accommodation above Base Camp:	Tents only
Number of Camps:	Please update
Avg. Cost:	3 000 USD
Age Restrictions:	At least 21 years old
Soloing:	No, at least 2 people
Descent Route:	Same
Specify descent time:	6 Hour(s)

Name (Elevation)	Description
Climber's Summit 3 750 m / 12 303 tf	The climbers' summit is where most climbers stop.
Summit Rocks 3 000 m / 9 843 tf	The Summit Rocks are normally iced up, but can be a rock climb in late summer. 3 or 4 pitches are belayed to the summit ice-cap.
Gun Barrels 3 300 m / 10 827 tf	A huge icefall above the route. In this point route must be passed during the night due to ice avalanche hazard.
Linda Shelf 2 800 m / 9 186 tf	The last 50 to 100 metres is pitched climbing, on 40° to 45° ice up to the base of the Summit Rocks. To reach the Linda Shelf the “Gun Barrels” must be traversed, and on the shelf itself, the “Mini Gun Barrels” crossed. Both areas are subject to danger from falling ice debris. Steady, rapid movement is required in these places.
Hochstetter Icefall 2 650 m / 8 694 tf	The Linda Glacier is relatively low-angled. Up to the Linda Shelf there is some objective hazard from ice cliffs on Mt Silberhorn. A steady and efficient pace must be maintained to minimize the risk from ice fall.
Plateau Hut 2 500 m / 8 202 tf	This is an alpine serviced 33-bunk hut in the Aoraki/Mount Cook area.

Guided Tours

• Alpine Guides (New Zealand)

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• General description of the route. www.alpineguides.co.nz/aoraki-mount-cook-details