Route

via Linda Glacier, Mount Cook (3 754 m / 12 316 ft)

Mountain: Mount Cook (3 754 m / 12 316 ft)
Activity type: Mountaineering
Activity level: Challenging/ Tough
Elevation: 3 754 m / 12 316 ft
Duration: 6 Day(s)
Expenses: from$ 3 000
Image of via Linda Glacier, Mount Cook (3 754 m / 12 316 ft)
Credit: www.alpineguides.co.nz

Overview

Route Name: via Linda Glacier, North-East Ridge, from Plateau Hut, Northeast Ridge, с Ледника Линды, по Северо-Восточному Ребру
Activity type: Mountaineering
Activity level: Challenging/ Tough
Type of Climb: Snow & Ice & Rock
Location: Oceania, New Zealand: (Canterbury)
Starting Point: -43°-35'-15.594''S
170°10'19.354''E
Parent Range: Southern Alps
Mountain: Mount Cook (3 754 m / 12 316 ft)
First Ascent: ??/2/1912 Hugh Wright , Jim Murphy , Jack Clarke , Hugh Chambers
Duration: 6 Day(s)
Max. Elevation: 3 754m / 12 316 ft
Vertical Gain: 1 700m / 5 577 ft
Length: Please update
Climbing Season(s): 20 Oct-28 Feb;
Nearst
Airport(s):
Christchurch International Airport (CHC)
Convenience Center(s): Please update
National
Park(s):
Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park

Location

Oceania, New Zealand: (Canterbury)
  • Your Chance To Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    The spectacular peaks of the Aoraki/Mount Cook region have attracted climbers from all over the world for the last 100 years. The dramatic nature of these mountains provides a rare challenge. The combination of heavy glaciation, tremendous vertical scale and unpredictable weather means that they are not readily won. To climb successfully here requires skill, fitness, patience, and a great respect for the mountains. However, the rewards are commensurate with the demands of attempting these mountains - the experience of standing on the summit of one of New Zealand’s major peaks is a rare privilege.
  • Description Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    The easiest way from Mount Cook Village is to take a ski-plane or heli to the Grand Plateau. Otherwise you may take a walk/climb to Plateau Hut, however it is a strenuous exercise of 1.5 days. Flying in makes the best use of available good weather.
  • Getting There Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    Probably around 80% of all ascents (and 90% of descents), both guided and recreational, use the Linda Glacier route. The Linda Glacier is the most straight-forward route, and offers the best chance to reach the high peak. The Linda Glacier route is always challenging, and not to be underestimated. The Linda Glacier is relatively low-angled. Up to the Linda Shelf there is some objective hazard from ice cliffs on Mt Silberhorn. A steady and efficient pace must be maintained to minimise the risk from ice fall. To reach the Linda Shelf the “Gun Barrels” must be traversed, and on the shelf itself, the “Mini Gun Barrels” crossed. Both areas are subject to danger from falling ice debris. Steady, rapid movement is required in these places. Climbers will normally be moving together until the Linda shelf steepens. The last 50 to 100 metres is pitched climbing, on 40° to 45° ice up to the base of the Summit Rocks. Try to be at this point just after dawn. The Summit Rocks are normally iced up, but can be a rock climb in late summer. 3 or 4 pitches are belayed to the summit ice-cap. Conditions on the ice-cap vary from soft snow-ice to solid “boiler plate” ice. This section to the summit can be time consuming, and always requires concentration and care. Usually it is only necessary to belay short sections. The descent (by the same route) usually takes 7-10 hours. The descent requires concentration and good crampon technique down the ice-cap. Speed through the Gun Barrel section is essential, as warmer temperatures will soften the snow, increasing the risk of avalanche.
  • Red Tape Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    There is no permit required for climbing Mount Cook. However, ff you are going to use the Plateau Hut you have to pay a small fee.
  • Are You Ready? Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    There is no “easy” route up Aoraki/Mount Cook. The Linda Glacier is the most commonly guided route. This is a long and serious undertaking. The Linda Glacier route involves traveling amongst crevasses and across snow bridges, steep exposed snow slopes, belayed two-tool ice, and mixed climbing. The Linda Glacier route is graded at NZ Alpine Grade 3+. This is equivalent to European AD level. In European terms the climb is comparable to routes on Mont Blanc from the Italian side. For North America the closest parallel is Liberty Ridge on Mount Rainier. Prerequisite Experience: At least 10 days on crampons within the past 2 years Experience climbing with 2 tools on 45º to 50º snow and ice Experience of several 16-20 hour days on alpine ascents (NZ Alpine 1+ to 2+) Previous glacier travel experience Competence on rock - seconding to Australian 14, or US 5.7 A high level of aerobic fitness - able to carry an 8 kg backpack 1,000 vertical metres in 2.5 hours
  • Tips Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    Summit day demands an alpine start (01:00 am) due to ice avalanches along the route. Due to this issue you must reach the base of the Summit Rocks just after dawn. Booking of Plateau Hut not required - first come, first served. You have to pay 36 NZD at Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park Visitor Centre.
  • Parameters Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    Base Camp Elevation: 2 500 m / 8 202 ft
    Summit Camp Elevation: Please update
    Accommodation in Base Camp: Both - huts and tents
    Accommodation above Base Camp: Tents only
    Number of Camps: Please update
    Avg. Cost: 3 000 USD
    Age Restrictions: At least 21 years old
    Soloing: No, at least 2 people
    Avg. Descent Time: Please update
  • Key Points Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    Name (Elevation) Description
    Climber's Summit
    3 750 m / 12 303 tf
    The climbers' summit is where most climbers stop.
    Summit Rocks
    3 000 m / 9 843 tf
    The Summit Rocks are normally iced up, but can be a rock climb in late summer. 3 or 4 pitches are belayed to the summit ice-cap.
    Gun Barrels
    3 300 m / 10 827 tf
    A huge icefall above the route. In this point route must be passed during the night due to ice avalanche hazard.
    Linda Shelf
    2 800 m / 9 186 tf
    The last 50 to 100 metres is pitched climbing, on 40° to 45° ice up to the base of the Summit Rocks. To reach the Linda Shelf the “Gun Barrels” must be traversed, and on the shelf itself, the “Mini Gun Barrels” crossed. Both areas are subject to danger from falling ice debris. Steady, rapid movement is required in these places.
    Hochstetter Icefall
    2 650 m / 8 694 tf
    The Linda Glacier is relatively low-angled. Up to the Linda Shelf there is some objective hazard from ice cliffs on Mt Silberhorn. A steady and efficient pace must be maintained to minimize the risk from ice fall.
    Plateau Hut
    2 500 m / 8 202 tf
    This is an alpine serviced 33-bunk hut in the Aoraki/Mount Cook area.
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Last update: Mountain Planet (18 Mar 2016) • History
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