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Normal Route, Ojos del Salado (6 893 m / 22 615 ft)

South America, Chile: (Atacama)

Mountain:	Ojos del Salado (6 893 m / 22 615 ft)
Activity type:	Mountaineering
Activity level:	Moderate/ Challenging
Elevation:	5 900 m / 19 357 ft
Duration:	6 Day(s)
Expenses:	from$ 2 300

Image of Normal Route, Ojos del Salado (6 893 m / 22 615 ft)

Credit: www.7summits.ru

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Route Name:	Normal Route, Ruta Normal, routa normale, Стандартный Маршрут
Activity type:	Mountaineering
Activity level:	Moderate/ Challenging
Type of Climb:	Trekking
Location:	South America, Chile: (Atacama)
Starting Point:	-27°-6'-14.159''S -68°-32'-31.635''W
Parent Range:	Central Andean Highlands
Mountain:	Ojos del Salado (6 893 m / 22 615 ft)
First Ascent:	26/2/1937 Jan Szczepanski (Poland), Justyn Wojsznis (Poland)

Duration:	6 Day(s)
Max. Elevation:	5 900m / 19 357 ft
Vertical Gain:	1 693m / 5 554 ft
Length:	7km / 4 miles
Climbing Season(s):	Please update
Nearst Airport(s):	Comodoro Arturo Merino Benítez Santiago International Airport (SCL)
Convenience Center(s):	Copiapó
National Park(s):	Please update

Location

South America, Chile: (Atacama)

-27°-6'-14.159''S -68°-32'-31.635''W

Tours

Guided Tour

Ojos del Salado

Location: Argentina

Price: $0

16 Day(s)

Activity type:Mountaineering

Difficulty: Tough/ Extreme

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Ascent to the Ojos del Salado - is a unique opportunity for beginners in high altitude mountaineering who want to find out whether they can tolerate the height. Except for the last 100 meters before the summit, the route is very ease to climb from the technical point of view. It mostly passes onto volcano slopes which at times compete in jeeps trying to beat another world record by achieving the most elevated point. In addition, this volcano tops the list of "7 Volcanoes" being the highest volcano on the Earth.
Description Edit • Add / Share you knowledge with mates

From the base camp "Refuge Atacama" route lies along a scree up to the high camp "Refuge Tejos." Then up to the summit block the route goes on the gentle slopes zig-zagging up to the crater rim. The trail is usually easy to find but in case of darkness or snowfall better carry a GPS with pre-loaded route track. There are several ways to reach the crater rim but all of them later join into one trail further up - so choose the one that seems to you the shortest. During the summer months the ice-axe and crampons are not required. Bring lots of water as there are no any water above high camp and even ice and snow are difficult to be find. For climbing a summit block are recommended to have a few carabiners, rope, harness, ascender and descender. Close to the top and after a small rock couloir you will have a choice between Chilean and Argentinian Summits. Most climbers go to the Chilean which is on your right after leaving the couloir.
Getting There Edit • Add / Share you knowledge with mates

From the Santiago international airport take the domestic flight to Copiapo (Chile) and then drive to the base camp "Refuge Atacama". Up to the Laguna Verde path runs along a good road. The last part to the base camp you have to deal with the gravel road. As a rule, the climbers reach base camp by 4x4 jeeps. Distance from Copiapo to the volcano can be covered in 6 hours but during your way you have to elevate more than 5 000 meters above sea level.
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The climbing permit is required. There is a police station at the Laguna Verde where your permit has to be checked before you've been allowed to proceed further. A lot of local tour-agencies can help you to get the climbing permit.
Are You Ready? Edit • Add / Share you knowledge with mates

The main challenge you have to overcome during the ascent to the Ojos del Salado is a permanent struggle with mountain sickness. Someone adapt to the high-altitude better than others but no doubt you definitely will have all its symptoms and consequences. As a rule the toughest day is the summit day - on this day you will take a vertical gain about a thousand meters. Usually the summit push and descent to the high camp takes up to 12-15 hours but this time can vary highly depending on your acclimatization. In any case, it would be extremely helpful if a couple of months before the expedition you'll put into your training schedule some strength and aerobic exercise, such as hiking with a backpack and cross running.
Tips Edit • Add / Share you knowledge with mates

Cellular Network: No

Ojos del Salado is considered an easy walk-up but the last 100 meters can be a bit tricky. The summit block has very loose, steep and rotten rock so the climbing can be a severe problem especially if you are tired of the long summit push. Usually you can find some old ropes there but never rely on it. Never climb alone and always bring a good rope and vital climbing and belay equipment in your backpack. Keep in mind the weather conditions what can be the strong wind and cold down to 30 degrees Celsius. Heavy storms can quickly cover the surrounding area with a few feet of snow even in summer.

Parameters Edit • Add / Share you knowledge with mates

Base Camp Elevation:	5 200 m / 17 060 ft
Summit Camp Elevation:	Please update
Accommodation in Base Camp:	Both - huts and tents
Accommodation above Base Camp:	Both - huts and tents
Number of Camps:	1
Avg. Cost:	2 300 USD
Age Restrictions:	At least 21 years old
Soloing:	No, at least 2 people
Descent Route:	Another Route -Please update
Specify descent time:	1 Day(s)

Key Points Edit • Add / Share you knowledge with mates

Name (Elevation)	Description
Refuge Atacama (Rojas) 5 200 m / 17 060 tf	The box-like "Refuge Atacama" has four beds and a lot more people can sleep on the floor.
Refuge Tejos (High Camp) 5 900 m / 19 357 tf	The old marine freight container at the Refuge Tejos has six beds and a lot more people can sleep on the floor.

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Guided Tours
- Aventuras Patagonicas
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Did You Know Edit • Add / Share you knowledge with mates

The scientists recently have found traces of sacrificial altars of the Incas which situated not far from the "Normal Route" to the Ojos del Salado summit. Apparently the volcano was revered by Indians as a sacred mountain.

The most elevated lake on Earth is situated in Chili at the east slopes of ... Read more
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Last update: Slava Shevtsov (27 Jun 2018) • History

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Day 1

Drive up to Atacama Camp, at 5 200. Driving looks like a high altitude safari than a regular drive. Make a stop before arriving at base camp and take a short walk up to 1-2 kilometers - it improves your acclimatization.

Day 2

Acclimatization hike and carry loads to High Camp, Refuge Tejos, at 5 900. Perhaps this shelter is the highest mountain hut in the world! You'll cache your stuff at the hut and then go back down to the base camp. Approach time is very depends on your acclimatization but usually takes up to 5 hours.

Day 3

Move to Refugio Tejos, where you'll spend the night before summit push. It is a short day - you'll arrive early, get hydrated, eat and rest for the summit day.

Day 4

Wake up very early in the morning and climb up to 8-12 hours to the summit. The terrain may be snowy or dry. From the summit you'll have an amazing view over all major summits in the area, including Tres Cruces and Mount Pissis. Descent back and overnight at the high camp Refuge Tejos.

Day 5

Move to the base camp Refuge Atakama and further to Copiapo.

Day 6

Spare day in case of bad weather.

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Normal Route, Ojos del Salado (6 893 m / 22 615 ft)

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