North flank., Tocllaraju (6 034 m / 19 797 ft)

North flank, some call it NE ridge but it´s not a ridge, and it´s definetely on the north side, and it´s not really a face, although it´s steep sometimes. The entrance to the flank is from the west, across the glacier. It´s a challenging glacier route with lots of seracs and crevasses. Take all the necessary glacier equipment: prussik loops, cord, biners, t-block, ropeman, 2 pulleys, 2-3 ice stakes (snow pickets), 1-2 ice screws. The crux is the final 60-80 near vertical metres of a mushroom snow and ice summit pyramid. There is a bergschrund and a steep snow + ice head wall (70°), which is ascended a bit diagonally to the right. Very important: take double ropes! At least 2x50mx8.5mm ropes since from the top there is a rappel anchor (or you can make your own), and unless you have double ropes, you will not be able to make the rappel, which is the safest descent route (nobody tells you about this, so I am). Also, take double ice axes.

From Huaraz, take a transport to Pashpa, where you hire donkeys/feeble horses to take your gear up. Alternatively, you can carry up your own kit if you are a minimalist and/or on a budget. The valley entrance is the Quebrada Ishinca, and it is quite beautiful and an easy, under 3-hour trek to get to base camp, which it shares with Ranrapalca and Palcaraju. For those interested in acclimatisng on lowlier neighbouring Ishinca and Urus, it´s an easy 3-5 hour brisk trek, depending on which one you want to do. There is an italian hotel in basecamp where, for a price, you can have a hot meal and a cold beer in a cozy mountain lodge.

Cellular Network: No (Guided Tours)

They are all in the description.

Base Camp Elevation:	4 300 m / 14 108 ft
Summit Camp Elevation:	4 900 m / 16 076 ft
Accommodation in Base Camp:	Tents only
Accommodation above Base Camp:	Tents only
Number of Camps:	Please update
Avg. Cost:	20 130 USD
Age Restrictions:	At least 21 years old
Soloing:	No, at least 2 people
Descent Route:	Same
Specify descent time:	4 Hour(s)

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