Route

North flank., Tocllaraju (6 034 m / 19 797 ft)

Mountain: Tocllaraju (6 034 m / 19 797 ft)
Activity type: Mountaineering
Activity level: N/D
Elevation: 6 034 m / 19 797 ft
Duration: 3 Day(s)
Expenses: from$ 20 130

Overview

Route Name: North flank., Normal route
Activity type: Mountaineering
Activity level: Please update
Type of Climb: Please update
Location: South America, Peru
Starting Point: -9°-20'-49.949''S
-77°-23'-48.871''W
Parent Range: Please update
Mountain: Tocllaraju (6 034 m / 19 797 ft)
First Ascent: Please update
Duration: 3 Day(s)
Max. Elevation: 6 034m / 19 797 ft
Vertical Gain: 2 100m / 6 890 ft
Length: 5km / 3 miles
Climbing Season(s): 01 Jun-31 Aug;
Nearst
Airport(s):
Please update
Convenience Center(s): Please update
National
Park(s):
Huascaran National park

Location

South America, Peru
Guided Tour

Location: Peru

$ 750.00
11 Day(s)

Activity type:Mountaineering

Difficulty: Moderate

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Guided Tour

Location: Peru

$ 1650.00
21 Day(s)

Activity type:Mountaineering

Difficulty: Moderate/ Challenging

0 reviews
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  • Your Chance To Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

  • Description Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    From Huaraz, take a transport to Pashpa, where you hire donkeys/feeble horses to take your gear up. Alternatively, you can carry up your own kit if you are a minimalist and/or on a budget. The valley entrance is the Quebrada Ishinca, and it is quite beautiful and an easy, under 3-hour trek to get to base camp, which it shares with Ranrapalca and Palcaraju. For those interested in acclimatisng on lowlier neighbouring Ishinca and Urus, it´s an easy 3-5 hour brisk trek, depending on which one you want to do. There is an italian hotel in basecamp where, for a price, you can have a hot meal and a cold beer in a cozy mountain lodge.
  • Getting There Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    North flank, some call it NE ridge but it´s not a ridge, and it´s definetely on the north side, and it´s not really a face, although it´s steep sometimes. The entrance to the flank is from the west, across the glacier. It´s a challenging glacier route with lots of seracs and crevasses. Take all the necessary glacier equipment: prussik loops, cord, biners, t-block, ropeman, 2 pulleys, 2-3 ice stakes (snow pickets), 1-2 ice screws. The crux is the final 60-80 near vertical metres of a mushroom snow and ice summit pyramid. There is a bergschrund and a steep snow + ice head wall (70°), which is ascended a bit diagonally to the right. Very important: take double ropes! At least 2x50mx8.5mm ropes since from the top there is a rappel anchor (or you can make your own), and unless you have double ropes, you will not be able to make the rappel, which is the safest descent route (nobody tells you about this, so I am). Also, take double ice axes.
  • Are You Ready? Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

  • Tips Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    They are all in the description.
  • Parameters Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    Base Camp Elevation: 4 300 m / 14 108 ft
    Summit Camp Elevation: 4 900 m / 16 076 ft
    Accommodation in Base Camp: Tents only
    Accommodation above Base Camp: Tents only
    Number of Camps: Please update
    Avg. Cost: 20 130 USD
    Age Restrictions: At least 21 years old
    Soloing: No, at least 2 people
    Avg. Descent Time: Please update
  • Key Points Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

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Last update: Ivan Loredo-Vidal (27 Jun 2017) • History
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