Normal Route, Ojos del Salado (6 89...

Ascent to the Ojos del Salado - is a unique opportunity for beginners in high altitude mountaineering who want to find out whether they can tolerate the height. Except for the last 100 meters before the summit, the route is very ease to climb from the technical point of view. It mostly passes onto volcano slopes which at times compete in jeeps trying to beat another world record by achieving the most elevated point. In addition, this volcano tops the list of "7 Volcanoes" being the highest volcano on the Earth.

From the base camp "Refuge Atacama" route lies along a scree up to the high camp "Refuge Tejos." Then up to the summit block the route goes on the gentle slopes zig-zagging up to the crater rim. The trail is usually easy to find but in case of darkness or snowfall better carry a GPS with pre-loaded route track. There are several ways to reach the crater rim but all of them later join into one trail further up - so choose the one that seems to you the shortest. During the summer months the ice-axe and crampons are not required. Bring lots of water as there are no any water above high camp and even ice and snow are difficult to be find. For climbing a summit block are recommended to have a few carabiners, rope, harness, ascender and descender. Close to the top and after a small rock couloir you will have a choice between Chilean and Argentinian Summits. Most climbers go to the Chilean which is on your right after leaving the couloir.

From the Santiago international airport take the domestic flight to Copiapo (Chile) and then drive to the base camp "Refuge Atacama". Up to the Laguna Verde path runs along a good road. The last part to the base camp you have to deal with the gravel road. As a rule, the climbers reach base camp by 4x4 jeeps. Distance from Copiapo to the volcano can be covered in 6 hours but during your way you have to elevate more than 5 000 meters above sea level.

The climbing permit is required. There is a police station at the Laguna Verde where your permit has to be checked before you've been allowed to proceed further. A lot of local tour-agencies can help you to get the climbing permit.

The main challenge you have to overcome during the ascent to the Ojos del Salado is a permanent struggle with mountain sickness. Someone adapt to the high-altitude better than others but no doubt you definitely will have all its symptoms and consequences. As a rule the toughest day is the summit day - on this day you will take a vertical gain about a thousand meters. Usually the summit push and descent to the high camp takes up to 12-15 hours but this time can vary highly depending on your acclimatization. In any case, it would be extremely helpful if a couple of months before the expedition you'll put into your training schedule some strength and aerobic exercise, such as hiking with a backpack and cross running.

Ojos del Salado is considered an easy walk-up but the last 100 meters can be a bit tricky. The summit block has very loose, steep and rotten rock so the climbing can be a severe problem especially if you are tired of the long summit push. Usually you can find some old ropes there but never rely on it. Never climb alone and always bring a good rope and vital climbing and belay equipment in your backpack. Keep in mind the weather conditions what can be the strong wind and cold down to 30 degrees Celsius. Heavy storms can quickly cover the surrounding area with a few feet of snow even in summer.