unpublished

Climbing Khan-Tengri 7010m

Activity type:	Mountaineering
Activity level:	Challenging
Availability:	8 Aug 2020 - 28 Aug 2020
Duration:	21 Day(s) / Tour with fixed start dates
Price:	from $3990

Full description

The ascent to Khan-Tengri (7010m) is a serious expedition to the northernmost seven-thousand-peak of the planet! The way to the summit is not easy and requires from the climbers a solid climbing experience and excellent physical training. The journey begins in Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. Then we will go to the village of Karkala, from where the helicopter will take us to the base camp at an altitude of 4000m. The ascent to the top will begin here. For better acclimatisation, we will spend four nights in high-altitude camps. Then for rest we will go down to the base camp.

Khan-Tengri is the second highest peak in Central Tien-Shan. The marble pyramid, almost perfect in shape, adorns this one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.

The name Khan-Tengri in Turkic means "Lord of the sky". The existence of the top with this name was mentioned by ancient travelers. In the worldview of ancient peoples Khan-Tengri is the supreme deity or residence of the supreme deity.

The first ascent to the top was made in 1931 by an expedition led by Mikhail Pogrebetsky. The climbers went along the Southern Inylchek glacier to Chapaev peak, then to the western shoulder of Khan-Tengri and further up the southwestern slope. On September 11 Mikhail Pogrebetsky, Boris Tyurin and Franz Zauber reached the summit.

Our way of climbing begins on the Northern Inylchek glacier. This route was passed in 1974 by expedition under the direction of V. Solomatov.

* * *

Key points:

- Climb one of the most beautiful peaks in the world

- Test yourself on a challenging high-altitude climb

- Climb to the northernmost 7000th of the planet

- Visit Tien-Shan, one of the highest mountain systems in the world

Get experience of high-altitude expeditions

Price includes

Certified mountain or alpine guide;
Helicopter flight to/from Base Camp "Northern Inylchek" with unlimited luggage;
All transfers under the program (from/to the airport and Karkara);
Accommodation in a hotel in Bishkek (2 nights with breakfast);
Accommodation in tents in Karkara with full biard (breakfast, lunch, dinner);
Accommodation in tents in the base camp "Northern Inylchek" with full biard (breakfast, lunch, dinner);
Meals on the way to/from Karkara;
All necessary permits and registrations for Kyrgyzstan, including for staying in the frontier zone, as well as the environmental fee for living in the base camp;
Tents for accommodation in Hight Camps;
Kitchen equipment for Hight Camps ;
Meals in Hight Camps - dinner and breakfast, as well as lunch package (snack);
Team mountaineering equipment;
First aid and consultations with a doctor in the Base Camp "Northern Inylchek";
Use of hot showers, saunas, toilets and storage facilities in the Base Camp "North Inylchek";

Not included in price

Personal mountaineering equipment;
International flight to Bishkek and back;
Lunches and dinners in Bishkek;
Registration of Kyrgyz visa (if necessary);
Mountaineering insurance covering the cost of rescue work in the mountains;
Tips for guides and service personnel;

Guide

Maxim Foygel

43 years, Russia

Guide

7300

Mountaineering, Backcountry Skiing, Hiking, Rock Climbing, Ice Climbing

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To be honest, I ended up in the mountains by accident. A friend of mine literally brought me to a climbing club. But I guess, it was my destiny. The mountains had turned my life upside down.

Of course, at first, I was inspired by something adventure, like climbing a difficult route or even making the first ascent. But over time, I realized that this was not the main reason why the mountains were so attractive to me. I was at home, in the mountains, or in other words, the mountains became my home.

I started from alpinism during my very first visit in the Caucasus (Russia). A bit later I fell in love with rock climbing. It was attracted me so much, that in addition to my usual climbing activity, I started to explore some unknown crags with my friends. Thus, almost from scratch, at the Mount Induk (Caucasus, Russia) there was established a new wonderful climbing area (climbinduk.org).

In the middle of 2000s I realized that it was not enough for me to have only a sports component in the mountains. I wanted something more that would have captured me with new strength. Already then, I did not perceive the mountains as a place for rest or vacation, but as something completely different, where I can be at home, not as a visitor. Therefore, it is obvious that the mountain guide, as a profession, has become a logical development of my sport career.

While working as alpine guide I got acquainted with ski-touring. Sincerely speaking, for a long time, skiing remained a purely applied sport for me. But over time, I became involved in skiing and freeriding. It allowed me to look at the mountains from a completely different perspective.

Nowadays, I have more than 20 years of experience in the mountains. During this time, I have made more than 300 ascents to the tops of the Caucasus, the Alps, the Pamirs, the Tien-Shan and the Himalayas. I participated in several winter expeditions and climbed high-altitude mountains, furthermore I made some first ascents in the Caucasus and the Alps. I feel comfortable in any terrain and I like to combine different climbing styles and activities in the mountains.