Created: Eric Albino Lliuya...
Last update: 05 Dec 2017
Activity type: | Mountaineering |
Activity level: | Challenging |
Availability: |
20 May 2020 - 1 Sep 2020 |
Duration: | 6 Day(s) / Tour with flexible start dates |
Price: | from $900 / Negotiable |
About Huascarán Peak: Huascarán is the highest peak in Peru. This mountain has two summits: Huascarán North (6655 m) and the main summit, Huascarán South (6768 m). Many climbers dream of reaching the high summit of 6768 meters. Huascarán offers multiple routes to arrive at the highest point in Peru. Technically, the climb is not difficult, nevertheless, due to its elevation and risk of avalanches, it is a serious endeavor.
Observation: Huascarán South Summit (6,768 m)
The conditions on all mountains change every year; Huascarán is no exception. The glacier between the first and second camps is receding, and as such, some years it is a challenge to get from high camp 1 to high camp 2 due to the crevasses and the large avalanches that may fall in the primary chute. Nevertheless, an ascent of Huascarán is, without a doubt, one of the highlights of mountaineering in the Andes.
Eric Albino Lliuya Peru Expeditions
29 years, Peru
Guide
0
Biography About Eric Albino Lliuya a Mountain Guide from Peru
Eric Albino Lliuya
Professional guide by: AGOMP
E-mail: office@peru-expeditions.org
WhatsApp Eric Albino Lliuya 0051 943081066 - | LinkedIn |
He speaks: Spanish, Quechua, English, and some French. Currently he is learning German also.
General Sales Manager, mountaineer, tour organizer and mountain guide of Peru Expeditions Tours EIRL
Eric was born in 1984 in Unchus viallge - Huaraz, Peru. Very early he was inspired by the mountains from trips taken with his father and grandfather. At 18, he began working as a trekking and mountain guide and support his father Juventino with tourism. Juventino is a Mountain Guide AGMP-UIAGM from Huaraz, Peru.
Eric is responsible and organized groups trekking and mountaineering in the area of logistics and security in the Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Huayhuash and South America.
| CV = Curriculum vitae
Details:
• Born 01. July . 1984
• Lives in Huaraz, Ancash - Peru
Education:
High School 2002 Jorge Basadre Grohmann in Huaraz
Education/studied Centro de Estudios de Alta Montaña (CEAM), School of Mountain Guides from 2006 to 2008
Languages:
• English language course intermediate VII (2006 to 2008), from Monday to Friday from 08:00 Hrs to 9:30 Hrs in the Casa de Guias - School of Mountain Guides, Parque Ginebra 28G - Huaraz city, Ancash - Perú
• German language course Module 1 to 4 (from 17 October 2011 to 26 March 2012), from Monday to Thursday from 08:15 Hrs to 12:15 Hrs in the VHS-Bildungszentrum school, Schlossergasse 8-10 Frankenthal city - Germany
Associacions:
• Member of DAV Summit Club - Deutsche Alpenverein since 2016, application area worldwide, especially expeditions, expedition-like things and training courses
• 'Since 2013 member of the Official Peruvian Mountain Guides Association and instructor of the mountain courses (AGOMP) in Peru
• On 15th. October 2016, take the first aid training course in Schladming - Austria with the Berg- und Schiführer Steiermark - IVBV - UIAGM - IFMGA
Working Experience:
• 2005 - 2016 mountain guide and tour leader of "Peru Expeditions Tours" and different
• A tour leader by BergSpechte Mr. Edi Koblmüller travel agency from Austria (2005-2017)
• A tour leader by Suedamerika Tours Mr. Thomas Wilken travel agency from Germany (2009-2017)
• A tour leader by 7 Summits Club 7 Summits Club Mrs. Lubmila and Mr. Alexander travel agency from Russia (2015-2017)
• A tour leader by AndeanVenture Mr. Christian Schöttle travel agency from Germany (2014-2017)
• A tour leader by Explore-Share Mr. Nicolas Vandepaer community platform from Belgium/Argentina (2013-2017)
• A tour leader by AlcostaRica Mr. Armin Liedl travel agency from Costa Rica(2006-2017)
• A tour leader by Mountaineering Association of Vojvodina Mr. Milivoj Erdeljan Association from Serbia (2013-2017)
• A tour leader by Eco Field trips Mr. Ronen Raz travel agency from Israel (2005-2017)
• A tour leader by BergHorizonte Mr. Christian Schubert travel agency from Germany (2016-2017)
• A tour leader by ProjectCordillera Mr. Sam Williams travel agency from England (2016-2017)
Projects:
• Peaks 150 Team: Mammut-Project/Huascarán - Successful expedition year 2012 Huascaran North Summit
• Rescue organization recovery of bodies September,2, 2015 Huandoy Sur, Peru. Alexander Ruchkin and Vjacheslav Ivanov died on the descent on Huandoy Sur South face
Journeys:
• Journey through the Andean countries of South America '2005 / 2017'
• Since 2005 to 2017 guiding tours-expeditions in Ecuador, Bolivia, Chile & Argentina
• On 2011 year first visit to Europe and experience in the Alps countries as Germany, Austria, Italy, Switzerland, etc. current location or visit is in Europe from 15th September to 13rd December 2016
General Sales Manager of: Peru Expeditons Tours
Mountaineering experience in his life
Expert Mountain Guide from Huaraz, Peru.
Eric is a guide as well sport climber, he is traveling often in South Americain and Alps of Europa for climbing and guiding and organizing trips-expedition mountaineering. He counts with more than 50 lead-expeditions to the comercial high altitude mountaineers and guidig in the Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Huayhuash and including other countries in South America as well in the alps. he led since 2005 the company Peru Expeditons Tours together with his father Juventino Martin Albino Caldua a mountain guide member of AGMP-UIAGM, in Peru his travel agency is leader in professionally managed expeditions in the Cordillera Banca and Huayhuash.
South America
Peru:
» Nevado Alpamayo (5947 m)
» Nevado Huascaran Sur (6768 m) normal route and route Escudo (direct and technical sign-route ), MAMMUT Project 150 years aniversary Huascaran North Peak (6655 m)
» Nevado Tocllaraju (6034 m) normal route & record Climbing west side in 2 days
» Nevado Ranrapalca (6162 m) new route south valley Cojub
» Nevado Urus central (5495 m) new direct route south
» Nevado Chopicalqui (6354 m)
» Nevado Palcaraju central (6264 m)
» Nevado Ishinca (5530 m)
» Nevado Vallunaraju (5686 m)
» Nevado Pisco (5752 m) normal route and direct route South Face
» Nevado Diablo Mudo (5300 m) in the Huayhuash
» Nevado Maparaju (5325 m)
» Nevado Andavite (5518 m)
Ecuador:
» Volcano Chimborazo (6310 m)
» Volcano Cotopaxi (5897 m)
» Volcano Cayambe (5790 m)
» Volcano Iliniza Norte (5126 m)
» Volcano Antisana (5758 m)
» Volcano Guagua Pichincha (4784 m)
» Volcano Rucupichincha (4698 m)
» Volcano Pasochoa (4199 m) and others.
Bolivia:
» Mountain Condoriri summit "Cabeza de Condor" Direct Route (5648m)
» Mountain Huayna Potosi normal route (6088 m)
» Volcano Sajama (6542 m)
» Volcano Acotango (6052 m)
» Volcano Parinacota (6348 m)
» Mountain Illimani (6462 m)
» Pequeño Alpamayo (5410 m) direct route
» Cerro Kinkillosa (5008 m)
» Cerro Austria (5321 m)
Chile:
» The highest volcano in the world Ojos del Salados (6893 m)
» San Pedro de Atacama - Exploring the city (2440 m)
» San Pedro de Atacama - Tour to Valle de Luna (2500 m)
» San Pedro de Atacama - Tour Exploring Guatin Canyon (3500 m)
» San Pedro de Atacama - Exploring Geyser "El Tatio" (4300 m). Highest geysers in the world
» San Pedro de Atacama - Climbing Lascar Volcano (5592 m)
» San Pedro de Atacama - Climbing Toco Volcano (5604 m)
» San Pedro de Atacama - Exploring Pukará de Quitor (2800 m) » City Copiapo - After breakfast bus transfer to Laguna Santa Rosa (3600 m)
» Laguna Santa Rosa - Transfer Laguna Verde (4400 m)
» Laguna Verde - Climbing Cerro San Francisco (6018 m)
» Laguna Verde - Transfer Refugio Atacama (5200 m) - Climbing Cerro Vicuñas (6067 m)
» Camp Atacama - Trekking up to Refugio Tejos (5820 m) - Return to Camp Atacama
» Camp Atacama - Trekking up to Refugio Tejos (5820 m)
» Region Putre - Cerro Surunche (3878 m)
» Region Putre - Hike to Lake Chungara (4600 m)
» Region Putre - Akklimatisierungstouren - Jurasi (4800 m)
» Region Putre - Cerro Guane Guane (5050 m)
» Region Putre - Village Guallatire Summit (5400 m)
Argentina:
» Aconcagua up to 6850M (not summit due to bad weather)
In the Alps / Europe
Italy:
» September / 2015 - Ortler via Hintergrat (3905 m), Südtirol
» 2015 / 2016 - Verschiedene Kletterrouten am Gardasee (Aprodite / Porci del Ai, Moonbears, Luna de argentea, Fiaba del Bosco, Il mercurio serpegiante, Il Scalette del Indria
» April / 2016 - Klettern Tannheimer - Via Anita
» April / 2016 - Klettern Gindlkante
Austria:
» April / 2012 - Schneeberg (1051 m)
» October / 2015 - Großes Wiesbachhorn via Kaindlgrat (3564 m)
» October / 2015 - Wildspitze über Breslauer Hütte (3770 m)
» May / 2016 - Skitour – Großglockner (3798 m)
» October / 2016 - Schönfeldspitze (2653 m)
Germany:
» April / 2012 - Zugspitze (2962 m)
» September / 2015 – Watzmannüberschreitung (2713 m)
Switzerland:
» October / 2015 - Versuch Matterhorn bis 4200 - Abbruch wegen Wetter
» September / 2016 - Cavadiras Südkante (2948 m)
Croatia:
» November / 2016 - National Park Paklenica: Rock Climbing different routes
Slovenia:
» November / 2016 - Triglav (2864 m), via Tomineksteig and Bambergerweg
| TRAVELED SO FAR FOLLOWING COUNTRIES FOR PHOTOGRAPHING, MOUNTAINEERING AND CLIMBING
Destinations:
Europe: Germany, Austria, Italy, France, Spain, Holland, Italy, Switzerland
Asia: Not yet visited this place
Africa: Not yet visited this place
America: Canada
South America: Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile, Argentina
Central America: Not yet visited this place
Oceania: Not yet visited this place
Antarctica: Not yet visited this place
More info: https://www.peru-expeditions.org/history-biography-about-eric-albino-lliuya.php
Peru, Ancash
Huaraz - Transfer to Musho - Trekking to Huascarán base camp
Now the last and best mountain - the highest mountain in Peru, Huascarán. Transfer from Huaraz through the Callejón de Huaylas, the central section of the valley formed by the Santa River between the Cordillera Blanca and the Cordillera Negra. We arrive at the village of Musho, and load our luggage onto burros. From Musho it is a 4-5 hour hike to Huascarán Base Camp (4,250 m), from which we have a beautiful view of the Cordillera Negra. Overnight Camp (-/L/D)
Huascarán Base Camp - Ascend to High Camp I (5350 m)
Today we‘ll climb to High Camp 1. Porters will help us carry our camping equipment and food . From this point, the southern and northern peaks of Huascarán seem close enough to touch. Dinner and lodging in tents on the glacier. At this altitude, the temperature at night falls to as low as -13°C. Overnight Camp (B/L/D)
High Camp I - Ascend to High Camp II (Garganta, 6000 m)
Very early this morning we continue to climb over the steep section of the glacier, with crevasses, avalanches in the chutes, and an area of icefall with 50° faces requiring ice climbing. We expect to find changes to the rugged glacier because every year with the retreat of the glacier, the conditions change with regard to crevasses, bridges or new avalanches. Our porters accompany us to Camp 2 in La Garganta (“The Throat“), the saddle between the North Summit (6655 m) and the South Summit (6768 m.) We sleep in tents on the glacier. Overnight Camp (B/L/D)
High Camp II (Garganta, 6000 m) - Ascend to Huascarán Summit
Summit day! We begin our ascent very early this morning to the South Summit (6768 m) The trail takes us abruptly up, continues through many crevasses and avalanche zones until we arrive at the flat summit ridge. From here you can see all of the Cordillera Blanca, including Alpamayo to the north. The unforgettable view from the summit makes us forget all our effort to get here! After enjoying the summit and taking photos, we begin our descent back to High Camp II. If everyone still feels fine, we can descend to Base Camp (weather permitting) or stay in High Camp II. Rest one hour and begin to go down to Base Camp. Dinner and lodging in Base Camp. Time required: the ascent: 6-7 hours; descent to High Camp II: 3-4 hours; descent from High Camp II to Base Camp: 3-4 hours. Overnight Campl (B/L/D)
Reserve day in case of bad weather/sleep in High Camp II
Extra day in case of bad weather, or to remain in High Camp II. Overnight Camp (B/L/D)
Base Camp - Trekking to Musho (3000 m) - Transfer to Huaraz
Our last expedition day. Early in the morning the mule/burro drivers arrive, and after the luggage is loaded, we descend to the village of Musho, a walk of 3-4 hours. From here our private transport will be waiting to take us to Huaraz, our final destination. Here we say goodbye to our local team; have a complimentary dinner at the home of Juventino Albino Caldua - a special dish called Pachamanca. Lodging in the hotel. Overnight Hotel (B/L/-)
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