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West Buttress, Denali (6 195 m / 20 325 ft)

Mountain: Denali (6 195 m / 20 325 ft)
Activity type: Mountaineering
Activity level: Tough/ Extreme
Elevation: 6 195 m / 20 325 ft
Duration: 21 Day(s)
Expenses: from$ 5 000
Image of West Buttress, Denali (6 195 m / 20 325 ft)
Credit: Dmitry Sidorov

Overview

Route Name: West Buttress, По западному контрфорсу, Normal Route
Activity type: Mountaineering
Activity level: Tough/ Extreme
Type of Climb: Snow & Ice
Location: North America, United States (USA): (Alaska)
Starting Point: 62°57'57.961''N
-151°-6'-55.93''W
Parent Range: Alaska Range
Mountain: Denali (6 195 m / 20 325 ft)
First Ascent: ??/??/1951 Bradford Washburn (USA)
Duration: 21 Day(s)
Max. Elevation: 6 195m / 20 325 ft
Vertical Gain: 4 100m / 13 451 ft
Length: 22km / 14 miles
Climbing Season(s): 15 Apr-31 Jul;
Nearst
Airport(s):
Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport (ANC)
Convenience Center(s): Talkeetna
National
Park(s):
Denali National Park and Preserve

Location

North America, United States (USA): (Alaska)
  • Your Chance To Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    Mount Denali is the highest peak of North American continent and ascent to it is a quite memorable experience of being in the world of ice and snow, polar sun, communication with climbers from different countries united by common goal. The conditions are tough - tents are placed on a glacier surrounded by lot of crevasses, the temperature can plummet to minus 35 degrees Celsius. However, on the other hand - it is the polar day, an acquaintance with an American approach to all the details and nuances that can seriously affect the success of your expedition. In addition, only Denali so organically combines high-altitude expedition style and excellent infrastructure of the National Park.
  • Description Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    The easiest option to get to Base Camp - is to use the air taxi services. There is a number of companies that are based at the airport in Talkeetna. Round-trip ticket will cost you approximately 400-500 dollars. Plus additional 140-180 dollars for a transfer from Anchorage to Talkeetna and back.
  • Getting There Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    West Buttress is considered the least technical way to get to the summit. Difficulty is a hard thing to quantify in climbing, especially when it comes to expedition climbing and routes. For a mountain like Denali, difficulty needs to be thought of in terms of 1) technical difficulty, 2) weather and conditions, 3) objective hazards, and 4) the environment. In terms of the technical difficulty of the climb, the West Buttress route involves extensive and highly crevassed glacier travel as well as snow and ice climbing to about 40 degrees in steepness. The steepest part of the route -- the headwall above the 14,200-foot camp -- is protected by fixed lines. Conditions on the 'Autobahn', which is the snow and ice slope leading from High Camp at 17,200-feet to Denali Pass at 18,200-feet, can vary from deep snow (avalanche danger) to hard ice. Climbers should be prepared to place their own protection as needed on the upper mountain (i.e. the Autobahn, just below Zebra Rocks, Pig Hill and the summit ridge).The Autobahn has been the scene of more fatalities on Denali than any other part of the mountain.
  • Red Tape Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    All climbers attempting Mount Denali must register with Denali National Park and Preserve at least 60 days in advance of the climb, as well as pay the Mountaineering Special Use Fee. The fee can be paid by credit card via official website of the Denali National Park and Preserve. Registration and mountaineering ranger staff are available year-round at the Walter Harper Talkeetna Ranger Station to answer your questions.
  • Are You Ready? Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    Climbers should train to carry a heavy (40-70 lb) backpack while pulling a heavy (60-80 lb) sled on mostly moderate terrain for 6 to 8 hours at a time. In addition to the climbing and carrying of heavy loads, there is a lot of work involved with building camps on Denali. Focusing on general fitness in addition to uphill and downhill fitness will be a big benefit. Most climbers benefit more from training for endurance and longevity rather than for peak performance. It is fair to say that the best training for walking uphill with a heavy backpack on is, well… walking uphill with a heavy backpack!
  • Tips Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

  • Parameters Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    Base Camp Elevation: 2 225 m / 7 300 ft
    Summit Camp Elevation: 5 273 m / 17 300 ft
    Accommodation in Base Camp: Tents only
    Accommodation above Base Camp: Tents only
    Number of Camps: 6
    Avg. Cost: 5 000 USD
    Age Restrictions: At least 21 years old
    Soloing: Yes
    Avg. Descent Time: Please update
  • Key Points Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    Name (Elevation) Description
    Pig Hill
    5 800 m / 19 029 tf
    Summit Ridge
    6 000 m / 19 685 tf
    A narrow snow ridge from the top of Pig Hill right to the summit. Sometimes it is so narrow that could be called a "snow knife". In busy days climbers even have to stay in a queue to pass the most narrow parts one-by-one.
    Base Camp
    2 225 m / 7 300 tf
    Camp I
    2 377 m / 7 800 tf
    Ski Hill
    2 896 m / 9 500 tf
    Camp II
    2 987 m / 9 800 tf
    Camp III (Camp Eleven)
    3 414 m / 11 200 tf
    Motorcycle Hill
    3 475 m / 11 400 tf
    Squirrel Hill
    3 658 m / 12 000 tf
    Windy Corner
    4 115 m / 13 500 tf
    Camp IV (Medical Camp)
    4 328 m / 14 200 tf
    Headwall
    4 877 m / 16 000 tf
    Washburn's Tower
    5 090 m / 16 700 tf
    Rescue Gully
    5 212 m / 17 100 tf
    Camp V (High Camp)
    5 243 m / 17 200 tf
    Autobahn
    5 400 m / 17 717 tf
    Denali Pass
    5 547 m / 18 200 tf
    Zebra Rocks
    5 639 m / 18 500 tf
    Archdeacons Tower
    5 791 m / 19 000 tf
    Football Field
    5 913 m / 19 400 tf
  • Agencies Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

  • GPS-Tracks

    West_Buttress.gpx
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    Mountain Planet
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  • Did You Know Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

    Warmer temperatures have led to dramatic thawing of permafrost. Thaw releases carbon, as once-frozen materials decompose, but allows increased plant growth. Researchers in Denali are studying whether thawing permafrost will increase or decrease world-wide carbon emissions.

     

  • References Edit •  Add / Share you knowledge with mates

Last update: Mountain Planet (13 Apr 2016) • History
Dmitry Sidorov

 Dmitry Sidorov 

50 years, United States (USA)

Guide

8000

Mountaineering, Hiking, Rock Climbing, Backcountry Skiing
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