This is a stub page. Please improve this page by contributing your knowledgem. Learn how to improve
x

Overview Edit

Mountain Name(s): Kyajo Ri, Kyazo Ri, Къяйо Ри, Кьязо Ри     Geology: Tectonic
Elevation: 6148 m / 20170.6 ft     Snow line: 5000 m / 16404 ft
Summit(s): Main Summit; (6 501 m /21 329 feet)
    Prominence: Please update
Location: Nepal(Eastern Region);     Isolation: Please update
Latitude/Longitude: 27°54'25.41''N
86°38'17.461''E
;
    Climbing Season(s): 01 Apr - 31 May;
01 Oct - 30 Nov;
Parent Range: Himalaya     Nearest Airport(s): Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM);
Range: Mahalangur Himal     Convenience Center(s): Lukla; Namche Bazar;
First Ascent: ??/??/2002     National Park(s): Sagarmatha National Park;

Your Chance To Edit

Classic climbing route on relatively low for the Himalayas, but

high by world standards, peak.

Interesting to those who have climbing skills (walking in

crampons, rope work, ascender and figure eight), and wants to

make the ascent of medium difficulty in Himalayas.

Kyajo Ri is shorter, steeper, and more challenging to climb than

either Island Peak or Lobuje East, although it is technically

easier than Ama Dablam. Though the technical challenges are

there, it is less complicated compared to other higher

expedition and cheaper when it comes to climbing permits

becaus
e Kyajo Ri has been classified as a "Trekking Peak".

It requires multiple camps above base camp, rather than being

a simple one day ascent to the summit from a high camp like

other peaks. If you want a taste of a more challenging

mountaineering experience than some of the popular 'trekking'

peaks offer, you should consider Kyajo Ri. You will have to climb

'Expedition Style' using fixed ropes.
... Read more

Description Edit

The Kyajo Ri peak was officially opened to climbing by the

Nepalese Ministry of Tourism in 2002. The first ascent was

made that year by a French/British team.

It is a difficult expedition among the listed trekking peaks by

Nepal mountaineers Association. There is significant technical

climbing at high altitude.

This is a classic trekking peak, seldom climbed, with a

wonderfully isolated base camp. It’s technically pleasing for

experienced climbers and the summit day’s climbing has been

compared to that of Ama Dablam, though at only 6,186 m it

requires much less acc
limatization (and therefore time to do).

The good route to climb the Kyajo Ri peak is from Mende, (the

village in Thame side from Namche) and the other route is from

Machhermo side, in the Gokyo valley. The normal route is

south-facing, catching the sun, and has few objective hazards

such as rockfall or avalanche.

The mountain has a fine steep sweep of rock, 1000m high, on

it's E face, the one most easily seen from Machhermo village, in

the Gokyo Valley. The SE ridge is protected by steep towers,

with good rock initially, though the rock seems to deteriorate

further up. The NE face would be a hard but fine route to try,

though access to the hanging glacier below the face is exposed

to serac fall. The S face is just rotten rock and piles of stones.

The 'Normal' route (SW ridge) is accessed via the SE col (two

steep mixed sections required to get there from Machhermo)

and a descent to the Kyajo glacier below. Mostly 55°-60° snow

and ice, some serac exposure, with some steeper mixed ground

near the summit. Excellent view of the whole Khumbu (the

summit is the highest point on the massif that divides the

Gokyo and Thame valleys, N of Nanche Bazaar). With good

altitude preparation, possible in two long days from

Machhermo.
... Read more

Location Edit

Kyazo Ri (6,186 m) is situated in the Khumbu Himal just north

of Namche Bazaar. It is the highest summit of a long line of

peaks that separate the Thame Valley to the west and Gokyo

Valley to the east and run all the way to Cho Oyu on the Nepal-

Tibet border.

Getting there Edit

The Kyajo Ri expedition starts with a flight to Lukla from

Kathmandu. Then you will trek up the Gokyo valley on a

ridgeline north of Namche Bazaar to the Renjo La pass.

Red Tape Edit

There are permits required. These can be arranged by yourself

or the firm that you hire to support your team.
Report
Report
Report

DID YOU KNOW (1) Edit Add

• Kyajo Ri Peak was opened to climbing by the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism, in 2002 and the first (official) ascent was made that year by a Franco/British team.

 

Agencies Edit Add

Join the growing Alpine Community now.