Mountain Kyajo Ri (6 148 m / 20 171 ft)

Classic climbing route on relatively low for the Himalayas, but high by world standards, peak. Interesting to those who have climbing skills (walking in crampons, rope work, ascender and figure eight), and wants to make the ascent of medium difficulty in Himalayas. Kyajo Ri is shorter, steeper, and more challenging to climb than either Island Peak or Lobuje East, although it is technically easier than Ama Dablam. Though the technical challenges are there, it is less complicated compared to other higher expedition and cheaper when it comes to climbing permits because Kyajo Ri has been classified as a "Trekking Peak". It requires multiple camps above base camp, rather than being a simple one day ascent to the summit from a high camp like other peaks. If you want a taste of a more challenging mountaineering experience than some of the popular 'trekking' peaks offer, you should consider Kyajo Ri. You will have to climb 'Expedition Style' using fixed ropes.

The Kyajo Ri peak was officially opened to climbing by the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism in 2002. The first ascent was made that year by a French/British team. It is a difficult expedition among the listed trekking peaks by Nepal mountaineers Association. There is significant technical climbing at high altitude. This is a classic trekking peak, seldom climbed, with a wonderfully isolated base camp. It’s technically pleasing for experienced climbers and the summit day’s climbing has been compared to that of Ama Dablam, though at only 6,186 m it requires much less acclimatization (and therefore time to do). The good route to climb the Kyajo Ri peak is from Mende, (the village in Thame side from Namche) and the other route is from Machhermo side, in the Gokyo valley. The normal route is south-facing, catching the sun, and has few objective hazards such as rockfall or avalanche. The mountain has a fine steep sweep of rock, 1000m high, on it's E face, the one most easily seen from Machhermo village, in the Gokyo Valley. The SE ridge is protected by steep towers, with good rock initially, though the rock seems to deteriorate further up. The NE face would be a hard but fine route to try, though access to the hanging glacier below the face is exposed to serac fall. The S face is just rotten rock and piles of stones. The 'Normal' route (SW ridge) is accessed via the SE col (two steep mixed sections required to get there from Machhermo) and a descent to the Kyajo glacier below. Mostly 55°-60° snow and ice, some serac exposure, with some steeper mixed ground near the summit. Excellent view of the whole Khumbu (the summit is the highest point on the massif that divides the Gokyo and Thame valleys, N of Nanche Bazaar). With good altitude preparation, possible in two long days from Machhermo.

Kyazo Ri (6,186 m) is situated in the Khumbu Himal just north of Namche Bazaar. It is the highest summit of a long line of peaks that separate the Thame Valley to the west and Gokyo Valley to the east and run all the way to Cho Oyu on the Nepal- Tibet border.

The Kyajo Ri expedition starts with a flight to Lukla from Kathmandu. Then you will trek up the Gokyo valley on a ridgeline north of Namche Bazaar to the Renjo La pass.

There are permits required. These can be arranged by yourself or the firm that you hire to support your team.

Kyajo Ri Peak was opened to climbing by the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism, in 2002 and the first (official) ascent was made that year by a Franco/British team.

 

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Accomodation

• Hotel Yak & Yeti

Guided Tours

• Royal Mountain Travel
• Asian Trekking
• 7 Summits

• Technical details. http://www.peakbagger.com/range.aspx?rid=4834
• Other sources http://www.summitpost.org/kyajo-ri/151426
• Other sources. http://www.islandpeakclimbingnepal.com/climbing-nepal/kyajo-ri-expedition.html