Classic climbing route on relatively low for the Himalayas, but
high by world standards, peak.
Interesting to those who have climbing skills (walking in
crampons, rope work, ascender and figure eight), and wants to
make the ascent of medium difficulty in Himalayas.
Kyajo Ri is shorter, steeper, and more challenging to climb than
either Island Peak or Lobuje East, although it is technically
easier than Ama Dablam. Though the technical challenges are
there, it is less complicated compared to other higher
expedition and cheaper when it comes to climbing permits
because Kyajo Ri has been classified as a "Trekking Peak".
It requires multiple camps above base camp, rather than being
a simple one day ascent to the summit from a high camp like
other peaks. If you want a taste of a more challenging
mountaineering experience than some of the popular 'trekking'
peaks offer, you should consider Kyajo Ri. You will have to climb
'Expedition Style' using fixed ropes.... Read more
The Kyajo Ri peak was officially opened to climbing by the
Nepalese Ministry of Tourism in 2002. The first ascent was
made that year by a French/British team.
It is a difficult expedition among the listed trekking peaks by
Nepal mountaineers Association. There is significant technical
climbing at high altitude.
This is a classic trekking peak, seldom climbed, with a
wonderfully isolated base camp. It’s technically pleasing for
experienced climbers and the summit day’s climbing has been
compared to that of Ama Dablam, though at only 6,186 m it
requires much less acclimatization (and therefore time to do).
The good route to climb the Kyajo Ri peak is from Mende, (the
village in Thame side from Namche) and the other route is from
Machhermo side, in the Gokyo valley. The normal route is
south-facing, catching the sun, and has few objective hazards
such as rockfall or avalanche.
The mountain has a fine steep sweep of rock, 1000m high, on
it's E face, the one most easily seen from Machhermo village, in
the Gokyo Valley. The SE ridge is protected by steep towers,
with good rock initially, though the rock seems to deteriorate
further up. The NE face would be a hard but fine route to try,
though access to the hanging glacier below the face is exposed
to serac fall. The S face is just rotten rock and piles of stones.
The 'Normal' route (SW ridge) is accessed via the SE col (two
steep mixed sections required to get there from Machhermo)
and a descent to the Kyajo glacier below. Mostly 55°-60° snow
and ice, some serac exposure, with some steeper mixed ground
near the summit. Excellent view of the whole Khumbu (the
summit is the highest point on the massif that divides the
Gokyo and Thame valleys, N of Nanche Bazaar). With good
altitude preparation, possible in two long days from
Machhermo.... Read more
Kyazo Ri (6,186 m) is situated in the Khumbu Himal just north
of Namche Bazaar. It is the highest summit of a long line of
peaks that separate the Thame Valley to the west and Gokyo
Valley to the east and run all the way to Cho Oyu on the Nepal-