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Your Chance To
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Classic climbing route on relatively low for the Himalayas, but
high by world standards, peak. Interesting to those who have
climbing skills (walking in crampons, rope work, ascender and
figure eight), and wants to make the ascent of medium
difficulty in Himalayas. Naturally there are fabulous views to be seen from the summit
over the Manang Valley and the Annapurna Range.
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Description
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The Lobuje East is a trekking mountain, which stands on the
way from Namche-Bazar to Everest Base Camp. It also located
close to Lobuje West – they are connected by the ridge with a
sharp drop and a considerable distance between them
attempting to get from one mountain to another impossible.
Many aspiring Everest teams climb Lobuje for acclimatisation as
the summit is the same altitude as Camp 1 and it saves making
at least one dangerous trip through the Khumbu Icefall.
There are two main peaks, Lobuche Far East and Lobuche East
Among the trekking peaks in Nepal, Lobuche East is considered
one of the most technical peaks for climbing. It is classed as
Grade PD+ (Peu Difficile+) although it is rated as one of the
more technical climbs within this group of peaks. Despite
its altitude of 6,000+ meters, climbing the peak requires a
climbing guide, along with the experience of using Ice Axe and
crampons.
Teams, most commonly, climb only to a false summit on the
summit ridge (after which it becomes progressively narrower
and more difficult) but the views from here are anyway already
stupendous.
Lobuje East Peak expedtion can be combined with others like
Island Peak, Phokalde or Kongma Tse. The trekking route can
include crossing the Chola pass into the Gokyo valley.
Certainly it is more technical than it’s more commonly climbed
neighbours, Island Peak, Pokalde and Mera Peak. There are two
summits to Lobuche East, a “true” and a “false” with an
expedition peak Lobuche West adjoining.
There are a number of similar routes to the summit and this
page describes the South East Ridge route. The first recorded
ascent of this peak is surprisingly as late as 1984 by Laurence
Neilson and Ang Gyalzen Sherpa. The main photo shows the
general line of the south east ridge route as viewed from
Pheriche. The Lobuje West is a trekking mountain, which stands on the
way from Namche-Bazar to Everest Base Camp. It also located
close to Lobuje East – they are connected by the ridge with a
sharp drop and a considerable distance between them
attempting to get from one mountain to another impossible.
Lobuje West was first attempted and climbed in 1955 via the
South Shoulder. Since then the mountain has been climbed
several times usually approaching from the east.
Lobuje West is also taller and far more challenging & technical
than Lobuje East. The sharp ridged & snow areas of the
mountain require the climbers to be roped and use crampons
and ice axe.
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Listing
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Location
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Lobuche lies close to the Khumbu Glacier near Lobuche
village (4915 m), 13 km away from Everest.
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Getting There
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By far the majority of climbers heading into the Khumbu region
take the short flight from Kathmandu to Lukla and hike in from
there to Namche-Bazar.
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Red Tape
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There are permits required. These can be arranged by yourself
or the firm that you hire to support your team. There is also an
entry visa to Nepal.
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Did You Know
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“Trekking Peaks” first came into existence in 1978 when Nepal
Mountaineering Association was formed. Eighteen new peaks
were opened to foreign climbers with a significantly simpler
permit system compared to that required for climbing one of
the 104 expedition peaks.
All peaks are under 6,500 m, lie close to popular and accessible
trekking routes and some amazing climbs of several days can
easily be incorporated into any of the wonderful treks in these
areas.
And so the name Trekking Peaks came about. However, the
peaks listed hereafter span a full range from excellent
introductions to Himalayan mountaineering like Mera
Peak, Island Peak and the Chulu Peaks, to some extremely
challenging climbs, for instance on the north face of Phari
Lapcha or Cholatse, which attract the world’s very best
climbers.
... Read more
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References
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