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Overview Edit

Mountain Name(s): Lobuche, Lobuje, Лобуче     Geology: Tectonic
Elevation: 6145 m / 20160.7 ft     Snow line: 5000 m / 16404 ft
Summit(s): Far East Summit; (6 119 m /20 076 feet)
East Summit; (6 145 m /20 161 feet)
    Prominence: 499 m/873 ft
Location: Nepal(Eastern Region);     Isolation: 4 km/2 miles
Latitude/Longitude: 27°57'23.893''N
86°47'35.58''E
;
    Climbing Season(s): 01 Sep - 15 Nov;
01 Apr - 15 Jun;
Parent Range: Himalaya     Nearest Airport(s): Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM);
Range: Mahalangur Himal     Convenience Center(s): Namche Bazar; Lukla;
First Ascent: 25/4/1984 Ang Gyalzen (Nepal), Laurence Nielson     National Park(s): The Sagarmāthā National Park;

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Classic climbing route on relatively low for the Himalayas, but

high by world standards, peak. Interesting to those who have

climbing skills (walking in crampons, rope work, ascender and

figure eight), and wants to make the ascent of medium

difficulty in Himalayas. Naturally there are fabulous views to be seen from the summit

over the Manang Valley and the Annapurna Range.

Description Edit

The Lobuje East is a trekking mountain, which stands on the

way from Namche-Bazar to Everest Base Camp. It also located

close to Lobuje West – they are connected by the ridge with a

sharp drop and a considerable distance between them

attempting to get from one mountain to another impossible.

Many aspiring Everest teams climb Lobuje for acclimatisation as

the summit is the same altitude as Camp 1 and it saves making

at least one dangerous trip through the Khumbu Icefall.

There are two main peaks, Lobuche Far East and Lobuche East 

Among the trekking peaks in Nepal, Lob
uche East is considered

one of the most technical peaks for climbing. It is classed as

Grade PD+ (Peu Difficile+) although it is rated as one of the

more technical climbs within this group of peaks. Despite

its altitude of 6,000+ meters, climbing the peak requires a

climbing guide, along with the experience of using Ice Axe and

crampons.

Teams, most commonly, climb only to a false summit on the

summit ridge (after which it becomes progressively narrower

and more difficult) but the views from here are anyway already

stupendous.

Lobuje East Peak expedtion can be combined with others like

Island Peak, Phokalde or Kongma Tse. The trekking route can

include crossing the Chola pass into the Gokyo valley.

Certainly it is more technical than it’s more commonly climbed

neighbours, Island Peak, Pokalde and Mera Peak. There are two

summits to Lobuche East, a “true” and a “false” with an

expedition peak Lobuche West adjoining. 

There are a number of similar routes to the summit and this

page describes the South East Ridge route. The first recorded

ascent of this peak is surprisingly as late as 1984 by Laurence

Neilson and Ang Gyalzen Sherpa. The main photo shows the

general line of the south east ridge route as viewed from

Pheriche. The Lobuje West is a trekking mountain, which stands on the

way from Namche-Bazar to Everest Base Camp. It also located

close to Lobuje East – they are connected by the ridge with a

sharp drop and a considerable distance between them

attempting to get from one mountain to another impossible.

Lobuje West was first attempted and climbed in 1955 via the

South Shoulder. Since then the mountain has been climbed

several times usually approaching from the east.

Lobuje West is also taller and far more challenging & technical

than Lobuje East. The sharp ridged & snow areas of the

mountain require the climbers to be roped and use crampons

and ice axe.
... Read more

Location Edit

Lobuche lies close to the Khumbu Glacier near Lobuche

village (4915 m), 13 km away from Everest.

Getting there Edit

By far the majority of climbers heading into the Khumbu region

take the short flight from Kathmandu to Lukla and hike in from

there to Namche-Bazar.

Red Tape Edit

There are permits required. These can be arranged by yourself

or the firm that you hire to support your team. There is also an

entry visa to Nepal.
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DID YOU KNOW (1) Edit Add

• “Trekking Peaks” first came into existence in 1978 when Nepal

Mountaineering Association was formed. Eighteen new peaks

were opened to foreign climbers with a significantly simpler

permit system compared to that required for climbing one of

the 104 expedition peaks.

All peaks are under 6,500
m, lie close to popular and accessible

trekking routes and some amazing climbs of several days can

easily be incorporated into any of the wonderful treks in these

areas.

And so the name Trekking Peaks came about. However, the

peaks listed hereafter span a full range from excellent

introductions to Himalayan mountaineering like Mera

Peak, Island Peak and the Chulu Peaks, to some extremely

challenging climbs, for instance on the north face of Phari

Lapcha or Cholatse, which attract the world’s very best

climbers.
... Read more

 

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