Mountain SPANTIK (7027 m) - (Pakistan (7 027 m / 23 055 ft)

Spantik Peak is known by various names of its beauty and grandeur. The northwestern face on the Nagar side with its bright red color of golden pillar is called "Ghenish Chhish", which in Brushaski (local language) means Golden Mountain. Ghinesh in Broshaski also means Queen. The peak is so majestic and beautiful that the local people call it Queen Mountain. Conway named it as Golden Parri, which means Golden Fairy and some call it Pyramid Mountain too. The peak is located in the Rakaposhi and Haramosh massif near Barpu and Garumbar glaciers. The first attempt to climb the peak was made in 1903 AD via the Southeast ridge by Dr. and Mrs. Workman. They ascended up to 330 meters of the summit. The same route was used by five German climbers headed by Kramer when they made the first ascent in 1955. Some teams have used snowshoes to cross the flat and titanic plateau higher up. British climbers Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders climbed the Northwest golden pillar of Spantik in 1987, but they returned via the imminent Southwest spur. Most recently Spantik 7027 has been a favorite for climbers to training themselves for higher elevation. Lying to the south of the great Hispar glacier and standing above upper Chogolungma, Spantik offers an charming climb. The approach path to the beautiful campsites along the Chogolungma Glacier offers vistas of mountain scenery with innumerable high peaks. The climb along the Southeast ridge is easily achievable amongst 7000m summits in the Karakorum. The ridge rises 2700m over its 8-km length affording the several safe campsites. It is a straight ascent with a gradient of 30º to 45º with a mixture of some hard and easy patches. The Southwest route also goes along a snow ridge of moderate angularity. The summit on clear days presents grand views of neighboring Rakaposhi, Diran, Malubiting, Ultars, Battura Group, Haramosh, the entire Shimshal Mountains, and K2 far beyond and many more. The scene is absolutely breathtaking. Although technically easy but Spantik is for mountaineers who have the experience of climbing as independent roped parties on snow and glaciers and at least have been on some smaller peaks of AD level. High altitude experience and an exorbitant physical condition as well as regular practice are needed to be on this expedition.

Spantik Peak is known by various names of its beauty and grandeur. The northwestern face on the Nagar side with its bright red color of golden pillar is called "Ghenish Chhish", which in Brushaski (local language) means Golden Mountain. Ghinesh in Broshaski also means Queen. The peak is so majestic and beautiful that the local people call it Queen Mountain. Conway named it as Golden Parri, which means Golden Fairy and some call it Pyramid Mountain too. The peak is located in the Rakaposhi and Haramosh massif near Barpu and Garumbar glaciers. The first attempt to climb the peak was made in 1903 AD via the Southeast ridge by Dr. and Mrs. Workman. They ascended up to 330 meters of the summit. The same route was used by five German climbers headed by Kramer when they made the first ascent in 1955. Some teams have used snowshoes to cross the flat and titanic plateau higher up. British climbers Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders climbed the Northwest golden pillar of Spantik in 1987, but they returned via the imminent Southwest spur.

skardu Balistan Pakistan

Trip Itinerary:Day 01 Islamabad Arrive Islamabad. Transfer to hotel for overnight. Day 02 Islamabad Welcome reception (briefing) at Alpine Club of Pakistan. Overnight at hotel. Day 03 Skardu/Chilas Fly to Skardu at 0930 hrs. Upon arrival transfer to hotel for overnight. Sightseeing around Skardu. The 55 minutes flight to Skardu is a very thrilling and unique experience of flying between the towering icy peaks of the mighty Himalayan and rugged Karakorum ranges with extra-ordinary and unforgettable aerial views of clusters of mountains, and Glaciers. While flying don't miss to see the most spectacular views of Nanga Parbat (8124m) and K2 (8611m) from the cockpit. These two mountains tower over all the others. In case of cancellation of flight (12 – 14 hrs) drive by coach to Chilas (480km) on Karakorum Highway. Overnight at hotel. Driving on the KKH is no less exciting. The KKH is one of the most spectacular roads and the world's highest metalled border crossing. It connects Pakistan and China stretching over a distance of 1300 km between Islamabad and Kashgar winding through three mountain ranges and following the ancient Silk route along the Indus valley to the Chinese border at Khunjerab pass. Day 04 Chilas/Skardu 1. Day free at Skardu. 2. If you are driving, complete road journey (07 – 08 hrs) to Skardu (275 km). Enroute stop on a viewpoint near Thalichi to take a view of Nanga Parbat. From this face it was climbed on 3rd July 1953 by Austrian climber Hermann Bhul. It is a nice spot to take picture in combination with Indus and the Nanga Parbat in the background. We cross the Alam Bridge over Gilgit River to continue our journey towards Skardu and drive on Skardu Road along the Right Bank of the Indus River. En-route we will have the close views of Nanga Parbat, confluence of the Indus and Gilgit Rivers, junctions of the three mightiest ranges of Himalayas, Karakoram and Hindu Kush as well as the rapids and falls of Indus River. The town of Skardu (2234m) is situated along the south side of the Indus River. It is a broad Valley about 40km long and 10km wide. Skardu is now the administrative center of the District and also transportation and commercial center of Baltistan region. Day 05 Skardu to Arandu It is a long day journey so start early. The road to Shigar Valley bridges the Indus from Thorego some (10km) east of Skardu. The road then runs through the sand dunes before climbing over a shoulder of mountain from where a majestic view of the entire Shigar Valley can be seen upto the junction of Braldu and Basha Rivers. The road then descends to the Shigar village (32km). From Shigar the jeep trek goes up the West Bank of the river. Enroute at Chu Tron we can see hot sulpher springs with separate bathing huts for men and women. The jeep track goes up the valley to the beautiful village of Doko (20km) from where we trek to Arandu the last village at the snout of the wonderful (38km) Chogo Lungma Glacier. The trail starts through walnut groves and then goes up and down the hillside with beautiful view of cultivated fields and villages on the other side of the river. It is an easy walk upto Sesko beyond which it becomes stony and slippery due to landslides. After Bulcho the valley opens up and after trekking about (5hrs) from Doko we reach Arandu. Overnight at camp above the village at about 2950 meters. Day 06 From Arandu to Bukhum It takes about (8 hrs) to reach Bukhum, which is a summer settlement. The trail follows the Basha River upto the snout of the Chogo Lungma Glacier. After crossing the glacier follow the northern lateral moraine to Bukhum. Overnight at camp. Day 07 Bukhum to Khurumal It is (5 – 8 hrs) trekking. Watching the miracle views of the pyramid of Spantik, passing through Manchikera, which is a summer settlement we reach another summer settlement of Khurumal. Overnight at camp. Day 08 Khurumal to Bolucho It is relatively short stage, which takes (4 –5 hrs). Passing through the summer settlement of Gharincho and a small lake and enjoying the excellent views of Spantik and Laila Peaks we reach Bolucho, which is situated at the base of the Bolucho Glacier. Overnight at camp at about (3,900 meters) on a green ground with water. Day 09 – 23 From Bolucho to Base Camp (For acclimatization and climbing 15 days) We will establish three high altitude camps to climb Spantik. Going and returning between these camps will help acclimatize the team, which is key to success. Certain parts of the route between different camps will be equipped with fixed cords for safety and going and coming without any hassles. We will climb about (8km) up to the origin of Chogo Lungma Glacier to set up camp I at 4550 meters. Camp 2 and camp 3 are installed at mini summits of southeastern ridge with a view of 360º. The route from Camp I upto (5100m) altitude consists of many ice pitches with many crevasses requiring 8 ropes fix line. Beyond this point upto camp 2 no rope is required. The climbing from camp 2 at (5500m) to Camp 3 at (6550m) comprises ice with some dangerous steep crevasses requiring 6 ropes to fix on this section. From Camp 3 to summit two ropes will be enough as safety rope. Day 24 Return to Bolucho. Overnight at camp. Day 25 Return to Chogo Brangsa. Overnight at camp. Day 26 Return to Arandu. Overnight at camp. Day 27 Return to Skardu. Drive by jeep to Skardu. Overnight at hotel. Day 28 Islamabad/Chilas 1. Fly to Islamabad at 1120 hrs (subject to weather conditions). Overnight at hotel. 2. In case of flight cancellation drive to Chilas. Overnight at hotel. Day 29 Islamabad 1. Leisure day at ISB. Overnight at hotel. 2. In case of driving, complete road journey from Chilas to Islamabad. Overnight at hotel. Day 30 Islamabad Morning farewell meeting (de–briefing) at Alpine Club of Pakistan. In the evening transfer to airport for your homebound flight.

  ... Read more