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Normal Route, Aconcagua (6 962 m / 22 831 ft)
| Mountain: | Aconcagua (6 962 m / 22 831 ft) |
| Activity type: | Mountaineering |
| Activity level: | Challenging |
| Elevation: | 6 000 m / 19 685 ft |
| Duration: | 17 Day(s) |
| Expenses: | from$ 3 500 |
Credit: www.7summits-club.com
Overview
| Route Name: |
Normal Route, Ruta Normal, routa normale, Northwest Ridge, Северо-Западное Ребро, Стандартный Маршрут |
| Activity type: |
Mountaineering |
| Activity level: |
Challenging |
| Type of Climb: |
Snow & Ice & Rock |
| Location: |
South America, Argentina: (Mendoza) |
| Starting Point: | |
| Parent Range: | |
| Mountain: | |
| First Ascent: |
14/1/1897 Matthias Zurbriggen (Switzerland) |
| Duration: |
17 Day(s) |
| Max. Elevation: |
6 000m / 19 685 ft |
| Vertical Gain: |
2 712m / 8 898 ft |
| Length: |
108km / 67 miles |
| Climbing Season(s): |
15 Nov-29 Feb; |
| Nearst Airport(s): |
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| Convenience Center(s): | |
| National Park(s): |
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Your Chance To Edit • Add / Share you knowledge with mates
Ascent to Aconcagua is an unique opportunity for those who do not have high-altitude mountaineering skills to taste and smell the air up to 7 000 meters above sea level. For example, to find yourself on the same altitude somewhere in the Himalayas, Karakoram and Pamir, you will need several years of training and a special high-altitude equipment. Well, in addition to the above, it is an opportunity to climb one of the 7 Summits, which rightfully occupies first place in the ratings of several heights - it is the highest mountain in the whole of the Americas, the highest point in the Western Hemisphere and the highest mountain in the Southern Hemisphere. -
Description Edit • Add / Share you knowledge with mates
"Normal Route" is one of the most popular route to the summit of the highest point of South America. It has well-developed infrastructure and every year attract thousandth of tourists. Up to base camp Plaza de Mulas all carry loads are done by mules. Above base camp climbers to carry their loads themselves or involve porters. Keep in mind that the number of porters on the mountain is limited so you have to negotiate with them at least two or three days prior the ascent. The Base Camp Plaza de Mulas is one of the most comfortable place in the world which can be found at this altitude. For a small fee you can take a hot shower, use the services of two or three Internet-cafes, have a meal in one of the tent-restaurants and even make a sip of beer at the Refuge "Hotel" bar. Do not drink unboiled water even if it's water from the glacial stream. Always use boiled, bottled or purified water. Above the base camp the most part of the climbing goes on scree. There are no permanent snow fields on the Normal Route, but crampons and ice axe could be very required in some sections. If you are lucky then the last 300 meters (1 000 feet) of vertical gain will be covered by ice and snow - cramponing up is much easier than scrambling on a loose scree after a dry winter. -
Getting There Edit • Add / Share you knowledge with mates
Flight to Mendoza International Airport (Argentina). Take a car or bus to Puente del Inca or Penitentes. The entrance to the Aconcagua Provincial Park where Normal Route begins is at Puenta del Inca. -
Red Tape Edit • Add / Share you knowledge with mates
You must go to Mendoza (Argentina) to get your climbing permit and fill all necessary forms in person. Permits are sold at SUBSECRETARÍA DE TURISMO only. Address in Mendoza is på San Martín 1143. It's pretty close to the to Plaza Independencia. The permits can not be bought either at Puente de Inca or Punta de Vacas. Anywhere inside the park, the permit or the receipt may be required to be shown. -
Are You Ready? Edit • Add / Share you knowledge with mates
You will need to build a high degree of strength endurance, high-altitude tolerance, and strong cardiovascular conditioning. Just because you exercise regularly (four to six times per week) does not mean you have the conditioning needed to reach the summit of Aconcagua. Plenty of people who have the endurance to run a marathon or compete in triathlons fail to summit high-altitude peaks. Pure cardiovascular fitness is simply not enough. Focus on building the physical conditioning necessary to ascend 1 000 meters (3 500 feet) of vertical elevation gain on successive days carrying 20-25 kg (45-50 pounds). This trip includes a 30-mile approach trek over 3 days involving mule support, so you can enjoy the trek without extreme loads, and double carries, to keep pack weight down to allow for better acclimatization. -
Tips Edit • Add / Share you knowledge with mates
Cellular Network: No (Guided Tours)
The route conditions very varies from year to year - sometimes climbers have to struggle with deep snow starting from the Plaza de Mulas. If the winter was dry you probably even wouldn't take your crampons out from your backpack. But anyway you have to be ready for the most unpleasant situation - even during the warmest month (February) a huge snowfalls and hurricane winds can happen. There were times when climbers could not leave their tents for several days because of the wind and were waiting for the end of the storm somewhere in camp at the altitude of 5 200 meters. In 99 cases out of 100, you will need crampons to approach from the summit camp to the summit. Be very careful when passing couloir "La Caneleta" - sometimes it could be so icy that local guides even were forced to fix some ropes there.
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Parameters Edit • Add / Share you knowledge with mates
Base Camp Elevation: 4 250 m / 13 944 ft Summit Camp Elevation: Please update Accommodation in Base Camp: Tents only Accommodation above Base Camp: Please update Number of Camps: 3 Avg. Cost: 3 500 USD Age Restrictions: 18 Soloing: Yes Descent Route: Another Route -Please update Specify descent time: 2 Day(s) -
Key Points Edit • Add / Share you knowledge with mates
Name (Elevation) Description Penitentes
2 700 m / 8 858 tfSmall city near the entrance to the Aconcagua Provincial Park. As a rule climbers have an overnight at Penitentens' hotels before crossing the border of the park. Horcones
2 950 m / 9 678 tfRanger's Station at the entrance of the Aconcagua Provincial Park. Here your climbing permit will be checked by rangers. Confluencia
3 368 m / 11 050 tfIntermediate Camp located above national park entrance. It has a volley-ball court, tent-cafe and shower. Usually climbers spend a couple of nights here to acclimatize before approaching the Base Camp. Plaza Francia
4 200 m / 13 780 tfBase Camp for those who are going to climb Aconcagua South Face. Plaza de Mulas
4 250 m / 13 944 tfPlaza de Mulas is the biggest base camp in Aconcagua Park. It has some tent-restaurants, Internet-cafes, hot shower service and even a bar that situated by 20 minutes walk in the Refuge "Hotel". Canada
4 900 m / 16 076 tfThe camp situated above base camp Plaza de Mulas. Doesn't have any infrastructure. Nido de Condores
5 400 m / 17 717 tfThe camp situated above Camp Canada on a huge plateau. Sometimes it may be snow covered. Berlin
5 900 m / 19 357 tfThe alternative high camp situated above Nido de Condores and below Camp Colera. Usually there are less windy than at Colera but the summit push from Berlin takes about 1 hour more than from Colera. Colera (High Camp)
6 000 m / 19 685 tfThe main high camp situated above Nido de Condores and Berlin. It's located at the narrow field on the small col of the North Ridge. Sometimes may be covered by snow. Independencia Refuge
6 500 m / 21 326 tfA tiny wooden cabin situated above the High Camp. In general it's used as a shelter. Caneleta
6 700 m / 21 982 tfSteep scree couloir that leads to the summit ridge. Sometimes may be icy or snow covered. -
Agencies Edit • Add / Share you knowledge with mates
Guided Tours -
GPS-Tracks
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Did You Know Edit • Add / Share you knowledge with mates
The most common question which newbies ask themselves after summiting Mount Kilimanjaro is "What's next?". Aconcagua has the answer in the form of climbing the Normal Route. It's believed that this is the ideal way to refine your high-altitude climbing skills. -
References Edit • Add / Share you knowledge with mates
Last update:
(05 Jul 2018) • History
56 years, Kyrgyzstan
Guide
12000
Mountaineering, Hiking, Rock Climbing, Ice Climbing, Backcountry Skiing
Day 1
From the Horcones Park Entrance, where you will get your permits checked at the Ranger station. Here your personal equipment will be picked up by the mules. They will transport it to base camp Plaza de Mulas. Carrying only a day pack you head off to Camp Confluencia by walking 4 or 5 hours. Overnight in Confluencia.
Day 2
Acclimatization trekking to Plaza Francia. The trek takes about 5 hours until you arrive to Plaza Francia, base camp of the impressive Aconcagua South Wall. This is one of the nicest points of the expedition. Then way back to Camp Confluencia for overnight.
Day 3
Approach from Confluencia to Plaza de Mulas. After 8-9 hours hiking across “Playa Ancha” and climbing up through a very steep path, you reach Plaza de Mulas, the biggest base camp in Aconcagua Park. In the end of the day most of the climbers will feel the altitude.
Day 4
Rest day at Plaza de Mulas. The first day in Base Camp is always a rest day and a good occasion to take a bath and explore the local terrain.
Day 5
Ascent to Mount Bonete (5 074 meters). This climbing will give you the chance to acclimatize better to the main summit. Also you’ll enjoy a spectacular view of the west face of Aconcagua.
Day 6
Rest day at Plaza de Mulas. During the rest day you can pack all your loads (gear, fuel and food) to carry to the high camps.
Day 7
Move from Base Camp with all loads to Camp Canada. Hiking takes about 4-5 hours. Overnight in Camp Canada.
Day 8
Move from Camp Canada to Camp Nido de Condores. Nido (meaning Condor Nest) is located in a high pass at 5 400 meters and provides a spectacular view of the surrounding mountains. Crampons might be recuired. Overnight in Nido de Condores.
Day 9
Return to the Plaza de Mulas for the rest. It would be smart to keep some of your gear in cache at Nido. Overnight in Plaza de Mulas.
Day 10
Rest day at Plaza de Mulas and a good occasion to take a bath and walk to the Refuge "Hotel".
Day 11
Ascent from Plaza de Mulas to Nido de Condores. Overnight in Nido.
Day 12
A 4 hours hike from Nido de Condores to Camp Colera. Overnight in Camp Colera.
Day 13
The summit day. It is the most demanding day of the expedition. You'll start between 4 and 6 o'clock in the morning, depending on the current weather conditions. It's going to be cold. Hopefully, the wind will stay calm this day. Following the well visible path, passing the white stones, you'll soon reach the ascent line of the normal route. Once you've reached the small wood cabin (Independencia) at about 6 500 meters, you will stop for a break. Then you will ascent through the “Portezuelo del Viento” , climb “La Canaleta”, and the “Filo del Guanaco”, that lead you to the summit. At the end of this experience, you will descend and have overnight in Camp Colera.
Day 14
Return to the Plaza de Mulas. Overnight in Plaza de Mulas.
Day 15
Return to the Horcones Park Entrance. All your personal equipment will be picked up by the mules. They will transport it down to Horcones.
Day 16
Spare day in case of bad weather.
Day 17
Spare day in case of bad weather.
Gear
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Gear list for Aconcagua Normal Route (45 items)
Route: Normal Route, Aconcagua (6 962 m / 22 831 ft)
Last update: 22 Jun 2016
Mountain Planet
250 GuideDuring your climb you will have to a couple of overnights at the high camp Nido de Condores. So you probably could decide to remain some of your belongings and loads in the high camp. In this case it would be smart to have two sleeping bags - one will be always remained at the base camp and another one you can safely leave in the cache at the Nido de Condores. In this case you will not need to carry your sleeping bag a few times back and forth. Keep in mind that up to the Plaza de Mulas all your stuff will be delivered by mules so you will never be forced to carry both of your sleeping bags in your backpack..
Climbing Equipment
4 elements
Put all your efforts to ensure that all of your climbing equipment have been checked before you arrive in Mendoza. Crampons must be adjusted to the boots, a backpack should be reliable and convenient, and the length of your ice-axe must be proper.
Read moreIce Axes and Tools - 1 item(s)
General mountaineering tool. Sizing is important: under 5'7" use a 60 cm tool; 5'7"- 6'1" use a 65 cm tool; over 6'1" use a 70 cm tool (too short is preferable to too long). No rubberized grips-they are heavy and do not plunge well into the snow. Make sure that you have a leash that is designed for use on a glacier axe or a leash that you make from 9/16 webbing.
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Trekking Poles - 1 item(s)
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Footwear
6 elements
It's always risky to use the new boots on long expeditions. Therefore if you didn't have a chance to try your new boots in previous treks put them on and walk for a couple of kilometres. Be sure that they don't damage your feet and you feel comfortable wearing them. Pay attention to the size of your boots, they don't have to be tight even if you put 2-3 pairs of socks on. There always should be a gap between your toes and the boots of approx. 0.7 - 1 cm.
Read moreMountaineering Boots - 1 item(s)
A double-boot with high-altitude liners is required for this climb. Plastic shells with a high-altitude liner will suffice. Non-plastic high-altitude double-boots, while more expensive, can be warmer and more comfortable than plastic boots.
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Overboots and Gaiters - 1 item(s)
Required. Not needed with the Single Boot System.
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reccommended
Outdoor Research Rocky Mountain High Gaiters - Men's Outdoor ResearchQuantity: 1 item(s)
Approach Shoes - 1 item(s)
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Hiking and Trekking Boots - 1 item(s)
A sturdy boots in which you can wear a light synthetic sock under a heavy sock comfortably, either wool or synthetic. Shoes should be very Water Proof and very Warm. The ideal option is with Gore-Tex membrane.
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Hiking Socks - 2 item(s)
A heavyweight socks to be worn over the liner socks (if liners are used). When layering socks, check fit over feet and inside boots.
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reccommended
Bridgedale Wool Fusion Summit Crew Heavyweight Hiking Sock BridgedaleQuantity: 2 item(s)
Technical Clothing
10 elements
All clothing can be divided into several layers - light underwear, mid weight underwear, soft shell layer, hard shell layer and down layer. Be ensured that your clothes have no "gaps" in the layers.
Read moreUnderpants - 3 item(s)
NON-Cotton short style underwear. (boxers, briefs, panties, bras etc.). Amount based on personal preference.
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Long Underwear Bottoms - 2 item(s)
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Long Underwear Tops - 2 item(s)
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Long Underwear Bottoms - 1 item(s)
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Fleece Jackets - 1 item(s)
Top- zip-neck style is recommended for venting and versatility. Capilene, synthetic, or wool- any non-cotton fabric.
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Mountain Hardwear Microchill Fleece Zip T Pullover - Men's Mountain HardwearQuantity: 1 item(s)
Fleece Jackets - 1 item(s)
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Soft-Shell Pants - 1 item(s)
Choose Powerstretch. You will most likely wear these everyday during the trip as they are very versatile and durable.
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Technical Shells - 1 item(s)
A waterproof breathable shell material with full front zipper, underarm zips, and no insulation. This outer layer protects against wind and rain. Must has a hood.
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Technical Pant Shells - 1 item(s)
Waterproof, breatheable. Full length side zippers preferred because it allows easy removal of pants, 7/8th zippers allowed but is more difficult to remove pants.
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Down Jackets - 1 item(s)
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Headwear
8 elements
It would be very smart if your group have one or two spare pair of sunglasses and torches. These items are very fragile and could be damaged easily.
Read moreSport Sunglasses - 1 item(s)
Regular sunglasses are usually not sufficient. 100% UV, IR, high quality optical lenses designed for mountain use, must have side covers and leashes. No more than 10% light transmission. If you wear contact lenses it would be sufficient to bring a spare pair of glasses - it is a good idea to have these with "photo-gray" or equivalent light-sensitive material so they can double as emergency sunglasses. If you wear glasses it would be sufficient to bring a prescription glacier glasses (gray or amber).
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Handwear
3 elements
Despite the fact that the insulation characteristics of synthetic materials are unlikely to ever be able to overcome the natural down, choose your expedition mittens with insulation made of synthetics. Natural down unlike synthetics very easily crushed and so during the cold days when you will hold an ice-axe or rope your hands in down mittens will freeze more than in synthetic.
Read morePersonal Equipment
7 elements
When choosing a sunscreen and lipscreen be guided by their ease of use, because they always should be close during walking. Try to find practical options that are combined in a single tube both sunscreen and lipstick.
Read moreDay Hiking Backpacks - 1 item(s)
A day pack big enough to carry water bottles, camera, lunch and extra clothing. 50-liters maximum size. Rain covers are optional, but can be nice to have for wetter days.
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Backpacking Packs - 1 item(s)
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Packing Solutions - 3 item(s)
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Sun & Skin Protection - 1 item(s)
SPF 40 or better, 2 small tubes. Keep in mind that sunscreen older than 6 months loses half of its SPF rating, make sure that you have new sunscreen.
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Water Bottles & Hydration Solutions - 2 item(s)
Wide mouth bottles with minimum 1 Liter capacity per bottle. No water bag or bladder systems, they freeze or are hard to fill.
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Knives & Tools - 1 item(s)
You never know when a good knife may come in handy. Multi-tool option is better than just a simple knife.
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Camping Equipment
3 elements
If you are going to use a tour-agency service then you will be provided with mules and guide support as well as camping equipment (tents, stoves and cooking set). Otherwise you will have to take care of it by yourself.
Read moreExtreme (-40 to 4 Degree) Down Sleeping Bags - 1 item(s)
Expedition quality rated to at least -20°F. Goose down preferred over synthetic for bulk & weight. If well-cared-for a down bag will last much longer than a synthetic bag. Your bag needs to be long enough that your feet are not pressing out the foot box which will make you colder. It should be roomy enough for comfortable sleeping but snug enough for efficient heat retention.
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Sleeping Pads - 1 item(s)
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Other
4 elements
It will be smart to keep one extra set of travel clothes for travelling back to home. There is a permanent medical tent with up to four doctors at base camp. Their services are free. The doctors are required to check your blood pressure, pulse and oxygen levels. If you are not comply to you will not be allowed to travel higher. There are helicopter visits at Plaza de Mulas usually in the morning. It improves safety and helps to quick transport out for people suffering from altitude sickness . If the doctor send you out in an emergency the helicopter will be free of charge. Otherwise you will face costs in full. As a rule your travel agency is in charge of all meal service. But anyway you can bring some power bars and gels that will support you during long approaches as well as during the summit push. Please note that some kind of products (especially meat and fruit) are not allowed to bring to the South America.
Read moreDuffel Bags - 1 item(s)
One small additional duffel bag is recommended for storing unneeded items at the hotel during the trek.
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Duffel Bags - 1 item(s)
Large Duffel Bag with travel lock for transporting and storing gear. Total volume is up to 10 000 cu. in. Heavy Cordura or similar.
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Toiletry Kits - 1 item(s)
Include toothpaste and brush, toilet paper, soap, a small towel, wet wipes (1-2 per day), and 2 bottles of hand sanitizer (one 8oz and one 2oz).
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First Aid Kits - 1 item(s)
(Simple and Light) Aspirin (Extra Strength Excedrin is best), Antibiotic ointment, Moleskin, molefoam, waterproof first-aid tape, athletic tape, Band-Aids, personal prescriptions, etc.
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