Passu Peak 7478m Pakistan

There are about 4/5 Passu Peaks in that range but two of them are above 7000 meters. Passu 1 is 7478m & Passu II is 7285m. The difference in heights is less than 200m so there is no difference is climbing timings and high camps.

Once out of Islamabad we will drive straight 12 hours on the Karakoram highway to Chilas. From Chilas we’ll drive to Upper Hunza Valley and stay in Gulmit. Gulmit is an hour’s drive from Karimabad. At Gulmit we will leave our van and board on 4x4 jeeps to move towards are base camp. Our jeeps will drop us a Borit Lake, which is half an hour’s drive from Gulmit. Borit Lake will be our trek head. Here we will take our packs and start walking towards the first camping site Passu Ghar. The first days trek is easy with marvelous views of Passu glacier. After 4 hours walk we will be at Passu Ghar. It is a sandy, green place at Southern lateral moraine of Passu glacier. It is basically a summer pasture so we might find sheep, goats & yaks here.

From Passu Ghar we will walk up on the moraine and cross Passu glacier to reach Lazdur. The glacier crossing is easy as it is a regular route for the local shepherds. At Lazdur we will stop for lunch which will be a good opportunity before the steep ascend to reach Patundas. In total it is 5/6 hours walk/climb from Passu Ghar to Patundas. Patundas is a high place at 4200 meters. It is also a very good panoramic view point for all the peaks in Hunza, upper Hunza & Shimshal valley.

Next morning we will descend down for ¾ hours to reach our base camp (3900m). There is also a seasonal mountain lake. This is an ideal green place for the base camp before the big white snow field of the Passu Peaks. This place is also one of the base camps of Shispar 7611m.

After spending appropriate time here for acclimatization we will start establishing advance base camp on the snow. First half an hour walk from the base camp is again on the moraine. After that we will be on the glacier. On the glacier it depends on the latest snow conditions that we will find ice or snow. If there is fresh snowfall then we have to walk on soft snow otherwise on the permanent settled glacier. Now for the advance base camp there is no fixed place. It depends on the speed and mutual under standing of the expedition members. Water will be available here and we don’t need to melt snow. Approx. height here will be about 4000m.

Now the real climb starts. Route between advance base camp to camp 1 is quite difficult, technical and full of crevasses and seracs. We may need to use ladders on some portions here so please try to bring mountain ladders with the other climbing equipment. Also we need to fix rope on few places to cross the crevasses and on some traverses. As it is not a regular mountain like Spantik or G2 so we have to make our route our selves on many places. Which makes these peaks a bit harder than the known seven thousanders. Overall the climb is not very difficult but negotiating with crevasses and deep soft snow are the major hurdles on the mountain. Once the route is fixed by the high altitude porters and climbing leader it will take 4/5 hours to members to reach camp 1 from advance base camp. Height here will be round 4900 meters.

Route from camp 1 to camp 2 is not technical. Again HA porters and climbing leader will make the route first in deep snow and dump all the required equipment at camp 2. After that it will be max. 6/7 hours walk for the members. First two hours walk is on flat white snow field after that there is an ascend of 4 hours. There is no need to fix any rope in between camp 1 and camp 2 except one point of 25/30 meters. Arrive camp 2 at 5700m. It is a flat place on deep snow.

Camp three is a big white snow field and it will take the party about 6/7 hours, once the route is broken by the leaders. Climb to Camp 3 is gradual with occasional possibilities of hidden crevasses. No need of rope fixing any where. Approx. height at camp 3 is 6600m.

From camp 3, it is 7/8 hours climb to reach the summit of Passu 2 (7285m). The route is safe and non technical but in deep snow. For Passu 1 (7478m) we need to establish camp 4 on the way because it is not possible from camp 3 to reach the summit of Passu 1 and come back to camp 3 in one day. The route is same like as for the Passu 2. Soft deep snow and no crevasses but there is a steep ascend of about 200+ meters before the summit of Passu 1 (7478m). Camp 4 will be at 6900 meters just in the start of the last ascend.