Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
5 years ago
2011: First Winter Ascent of Gasherbrum II
This article first appeared on Explorersweb.com. The original can be read here.
Normal people, smart people, wouldn’t even go outside in weather like this — Cory Richards
Simone Moro gave up on Manaslu recently, and other 8,000’er hopefuls continue to struggle with deep snow and high winds, but climbing in the winter Himalaya has not always been impossible. Back in 2011, Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards made the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (8,035m).
With a 36-hour weather window promised by legendary meteorologist Karl Gabl, the trio set off in a storm. They battled through poor conditions until the clouds parted and they climbed precariously to the summit.
Cory Richards, Simone Moro and Denis Urubko after the climb. Photo credit: The North Face
But as Richard’s prophetically notes, “Getting up is only half way.” They descended into worsening weather, and 14 hours after leaving their high camp, they arrived back at their tent with “burnt lungs and cold feet”. They had hoped to return to Base Camp the next day, but had to make do with a night in Camp 1 instead. The following day featured the worst weather of the entire expedition, and even this vastly experienced team were lucky to make it down alive.
There can’t be many more arduous and dangerous expeditions than a winter 8000’er. Perhaps a full North Pole trip in the Dark Season? Regardless, this short eight-minute film gives a taste of what it’s like to take on this most difficult of mountaineering objective.
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Sister of tragic Scots climber makes heartbreaking pilgrimage to Himalayan peak where he died
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Everest: Wind Forces Delay
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Climber Emily Harrington rescued by ‘Free Solo’ star Alex Honnold after fall
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Season’s First Casualty on Manaslu
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Mountaineers find Soviet-era climber’s belongings at Mount Elbrus
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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Climber Rescued After Breaking Leg in Avalanche on Mount Snowdon
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'Too dangerous': Calls for Switzerland’s Matterhorn to be closed to climbers
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Dodging Avalanches, Simone Moro Abandons Manaslu
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Rock climbers killed in suspected cliff fall in Flinders Ranges
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Everest climbers to face stricter rules after deadly season
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Romanian elite climber killed in Fagaras Mountains
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Running, at Age 72, from England to Nepal
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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Bodies of three mountain climbers recovered after last week's Banff avalanche
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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Winter K2 Preview: Between Mountain Excellence and Commercialization
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Slovenian who skied down Everest dies cutting wood
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Carlos Soria leaves for Dhaulagiri; Sanu Sherpa to complete all 14 peaks
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The Climbers Who Survived a Week Stuck on Mount Rainier
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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