Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
6 years ago
Polish mountaineers announce second winter attempt on K2 for 2019-20
The Poles have learned a lot from their first attempt to climb the ‘Savage Mountain’ and will apply all their experience and knowledge to the next expedition.
A heroic team of Polish climbers decided to launch a second attempt to climb K2 in winter, Michał Leksinski told the SCMP .
The second expedition would take place in the winter of 2019-20, said Leksinski, head of PR for the expedition.
They considered 2018-19, but decided there was not enough time.
“One of the conclusions from the last expedition was that we need to be in base camp earlier,” he said. “The climbers need to be there by December 20, not mid-January. And we need to get cargo and supplies there in the summer before.”
Pakistan’s K2 is the world’s second tallest mountain and is the only 8,000-metre peak left unclimbed in winter. It has a mortality rate of almost one in four compared to 4 per cent on Everest.
The previous expedition to K2 in winter was called off in early March, after winter had officially ended, but it captured the world’s attention.
High drama began when the Poles ditched their attempt and rushed to Nanga Parbat to save two climbers who were stuck at altitude in a storm.
The Poles climbed through the night in one of the most epic feats of mountaineering, but were only able to save Frenchwoman Elisabeth Revol.
Her partner Tomasz Mackiewicz’s condition had deteriorated so Revol was forced to leave him higher up the mountain unable to help.
They returned to K2, but there were more twists to come.
When expedition leader Krzysztof Wielicki pushed back the summit attempt date so it technically fell outside winter, Denis Urubko left his tent and tried to climb K2 by himself.
The attention generated put pressure on the climbers, Leksinski said. So in 2019, the expedition is considering limiting Wi-fi in base camp.
“If you have Wi-fi, it is better because you can talk to friends and family,” Leksinski said. “But after [the coverage] exploded there were various comments [online]. Some were positive, but some were negative.”
“Guys saw the negative feedback and weren’t prepared for it as no one was expecting how big the coverage would be.”
The next expedition will include a training climb in autumn on another 8,000-metre peak.
The team members would change as well, but no moves had been made to select climbers, Leksinski said.
“It will be a smaller team than 12 or 13 people, just six or seven,” he said. “There is an idea to look for younger people who are technical climbers. Of course, we will look for the strongest climbers in Poland.”
Source: http://www.scmp.com
Photo credit: Polski Himalaizm Zimowy
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K2 Summit Push Aborted
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Top mountain climber Andrew Vine missing for two days after avalanche
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Behind the scenes of the rescue of the last solo climber on Mount Logan
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Brad Gobright: Free solo climber falls to his death
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American Climber Dies from HAPE on Mt Ama Dablam
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Mount Everest summit attempt in winter to be first in 27 years if successful
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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Breaking: Simone Moro Expedition Ends in Near-Fatal Crevasse Fall
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The Volcanic Seven Summits
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Mount Everest mystery solved? Mallory’s oxygen tank ‘broken’ before summit climb
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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Sister of tragic Scots climber makes heartbreaking pilgrimage to Himalayan peak where he died
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Everest: Wind Forces Delay
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Climber Emily Harrington rescued by ‘Free Solo’ star Alex Honnold after fall
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Season’s First Casualty on Manaslu
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Tributes to 'Incredible Mountaineer' Who Died During Ben Hope Climb
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Running, at Age 72, from England to Nepal
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Mountaineers find Soviet-era climber’s belongings at Mount Elbrus
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Climber Rescued After Breaking Leg in Avalanche on Mount Snowdon
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'Too dangerous': Calls for Switzerland’s Matterhorn to be closed to climbers
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Dodging Avalanches, Simone Moro Abandons Manaslu
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Rock climbers killed in suspected cliff fall in Flinders Ranges
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Everest climbers to face stricter rules after deadly season
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Romanian elite climber killed in Fagaras Mountains
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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The Climbers Who Survived a Week Stuck on Mount Rainier
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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Winter K2 Preview: Between Mountain Excellence and Commercialization
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Slovenian who skied down Everest dies cutting wood
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Carlos Soria leaves for Dhaulagiri; Sanu Sherpa to complete all 14 peaks
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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