Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
6 years ago
Eiger: Roger Schaeli Completes New Route to Famous North Face
40-year-old Swiss alpinist Roger Schaeli has completed a new route up the North Face of the Eiger. Schaeli established Airplane Mode ground-up in the summers 2017 and 2018, with Dimitri Vogt, Bernd Rathmayr and Mayan Smith-Gobat.
Schaeli told planetmountain.com "the route climbs a line to the right of Deep Blue Sea along the eye-catching sun and shadow arête on the Geneva Pillar. Straight thought the huge bulge, where the climbing is absolutely awesome."
Photo credit: Robert Bösch
The 300 meter route offers "a good mix of trad & bolts… with the 40m crux pitch sports only two bolts, all the rest on relatively thin gear." Difficulties check in at around 8a+ and Schaeli plans to return in spring for the first one-day redpoint ascent.
Airplane Mode is Schaeli’s third addition to the North Face of the Eiger. In 2007 he completed Magic Mushroom together with Christoph Hainz, while in 2015 he teamed up with Robert Jasper e Simon Gietl to complete Odyssee.
This article first appeared on www.planetmountain.com. The original can be read here.
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Climber Emily Harrington rescued by ‘Free Solo’ star Alex Honnold after fall
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Season’s First Casualty on Manaslu
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Tributes to 'Incredible Mountaineer' Who Died During Ben Hope Climb
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Running, at Age 72, from England to Nepal
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Mountaineers find Soviet-era climber’s belongings at Mount Elbrus
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Climber Rescued After Breaking Leg in Avalanche on Mount Snowdon
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'Too dangerous': Calls for Switzerland’s Matterhorn to be closed to climbers
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Dodging Avalanches, Simone Moro Abandons Manaslu
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Rock climbers killed in suspected cliff fall in Flinders Ranges
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Everest climbers to face stricter rules after deadly season
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Romanian elite climber killed in Fagaras Mountains
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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The Climbers Who Survived a Week Stuck on Mount Rainier
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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Winter K2 Preview: Between Mountain Excellence and Commercialization
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Slovenian who skied down Everest dies cutting wood
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Carlos Soria leaves for Dhaulagiri; Sanu Sherpa to complete all 14 peaks
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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