Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
4 years ago
Himalaya, Karakorum: When Will We Climb Next?
This article first appeared on http://explorersweb.com. The original can be read here.
So far, 2020 has been a year to forget in mountaineering. After the failed attempts on winter Everest, the mountain recorded only spring 50 summits from the one Chinese expedition. With that team now back at home — and Everest wrapped in silence again — it’s time to wonder whether the next climbing season will be summer, fall or winter.
In normal years, climbers would now be en route to their Karakorum base camps. But the only Karakorum news these days speaks of cancellations and postponements. Pakistan’s government is trying to facilitate the bureaucracy for those still willing to go (online applications, open borders, low prices, etc.), but cases of infection are soaring in that country — 90,602 confirmed as of June 5. However, Prime Minister Imran Khan believes that, “the country cannot afford to return to lockdown.”
Lonely K2 awaits. Photo: Alex Txikon
Steffi Troguet from Andorra is postponing her expedition to Gasherbrum II until next year, she announced this week. Sergi Mingote, aiming for Gasherbrum I on his No-O2 14×8000 record quest, told ExplorersWeb that he has 99% given up by now. “All my climbing mates have dropped out, and I am waiting until the very last possible moment to step back, but my hopes are really scarce,” Mingote said.
The absence of climbers and trekkers will hit tourism-dependent Gilgit-Baltistan hardest. Some international climbers suggest that this is the time for a major clean-up operation. “The Karakorum needs it badly, and the locals could really use the money,” Alex Txikon said during an interview with ExplorersWeb.
The only hope for climbing lies in late summer-early autumn expeditions: Though not realistic for the Karakorum, it is doable for westernmost Nanga Parbat. Mingma G of Imagine Nepal, who climbed the mountain in October 2017, announced a new autumn attempt on Nanga, although he has already cancelled K2 and Broad Peak for 2020.
September-October marks the end of the monsoon rains, which usually signals open season on Nepal’s 8,000’ers. This year, everything depends on the COVID-19 situation in Nepal. Currently, numbers are on the rise, with 2,912 cases and 13 fatalities as of June 5. Although not great, it’s not as bad as Pakistan’s figures, and Nepal still has time to flatten the curve before the climbing season starts.
“We are planning to launch teams on Everest, Manaslu, Dhaulagiri and Cho-Oyu, if the situation allows,” Tashi Lakpa of Seven Summit Treks told ExplorersWeb. Meanwhile, the company is focusing its efforts on bringing local communities food and supplies by truck and distributing them to those in need. “We are using our own business funds, but if anyone wants to support the expedition workers collective of Nepal during this pandemic, we will be happy to help them get in touch with the families most in need,” Lakpa said.
Tashi Lakpa at work distributing aid supplies. Photo: Seven Summit Treks
Sergi Mingote is ready to hop on a plane to Nepal at the last minute, if a chance arises: “I’d like to climb Makalu and Cho Oyu,” he told ExplorersWeb.
Indoors during the lockdown and outside when allowed, Sergi Mingote has not missed a day of training.
International outfitters, also primed for a last-minute move, are currently helping the Sherpa community, either through donations or by continuing to pay their fees as if there had been a climbing season.
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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K2 Summit Push Aborted
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On K2, 120 Climbers Make Their Move
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Karakorum: Great Weather, Early Successes
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Bodies of Seven Missing Climbers Recovered From the Himalayas
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Thousands raised for missing climbers
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Irish Professor Seamus Lawless Missing Near Balcony Area on Mt Everest
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Nanda Devi: Helicopters Join Search For Eight Missing Climbers
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Gone but Not Forgotten: Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard
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'Too dangerous': Calls for Switzerland’s Matterhorn to be closed to climbers
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Melting Mount Everest glaciers reveal dead climbers' bodies: report
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Bodies of 5 Missing Mountaineers Spotted Near Avalanche-hit Nanda Devi Peak
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Top mountain climber Andrew Vine missing for two days after avalanche
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Mountaineering’s Drug Problem
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Jared Leto recalls 'nearly' dying while rock climbing
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After Deadly Jam on Everest, Nepal Delays New Safety Rules
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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Sixty Years Later, Russia Is Still Trying to Figure Out What Killed These Hikers
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Search called off for missing Himalayan climbers
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Mount Everest summit attempt in winter to be first in 27 years if successful
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95 Years Ago, Everest Was Just as Deadly but Much Less Crowded
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Swiss Climbers Slammed for Landing Plane Near Top of Mont Blanc
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Avalanche Strands 4 Italians, 3 Local Climbers in Pakistan
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Everest 2019: New Route Attempt
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Winter K2 Wins Again: It’s Over for Pivtsov’s Team
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Scientists Find Warm Ice in World’s Highest Glacier
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Louis Vuitton Sells $1,590 Chalk Bag
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4 Climbers Stranded on Treacherous Mount Rainier Route
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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Bodies of Nardi and Ballard found on Pakistan's "Killer Mountain"
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Breaking: Simone Moro Expedition Ends in Near-Fatal Crevasse Fall
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The Volcanic Seven Summits
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Three Indian Climbers Make Fake Everest Summit Claim?
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Mount Everest mystery solved? Mallory’s oxygen tank ‘broken’ before summit climb
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Behind the scenes of the rescue of the last solo climber on Mount Logan
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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