41 years, Australia

Daily Mountain

41 years, Australia

6 days ago

Karakorum Today: Hidden Peak, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum

Hidden Peak is the latest 8000’er summited this season, but things are also moving fast on neighbouring Gasherbrum II and on K2. On Nanga Parbat, meanwhile, the job is done, and it’s time to head home. 

Karakorum Today: Hidden Peak, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum
Marco Confortola (left) with Maria Cardell and Denis Urubko in Gasherbrum Base Camp. Urubko and Cardell are acclimatizing on GII's normal route before attempting a new line

Besides the giants, some meritorious climbs have taken place on slightly smaller peaks, such as the new route on Rakaposhi South Face and Simon Messner’s solo of Toshe III.

Action on the Gasherbrums

A Korean team led by Kim Hongbin bagged the season’s first climb of Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I) yesterday. Fellow summiters included Cho Cheol Hee, Cheong Ha Young, Pechhumbe Sherpa from Nepal and Pakistani climber Muhammad.

Karakorum Today: Hidden Peak, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum
Alex Gavan fixing rope on Gasherbrum II’s Banana Couloir. Photo: Samu Sherpa

On neighboring Gasherbrum II, a number of strong climbers seem to be enjoying themselves: “What a feeling of freedom, what a feeling of joy,” exclaimed Romanian Alex Gavan.

Gavan is climbing with Canadian Don Bowie (who summited Annapurna this spring). Also poised to move up is Marco Confortola: If successful, GII would mark the Italian veteran’s 11th 8000’er.

He and partner Ali Durani are in Camp 2 for the night. Tomorrow, they will continue to C3 and plan to sleep at least two nights at altitude.

Karakorum Today: Hidden Peak, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum
Marco Confortola negotiates the steep serac just below Camp 1. “It looks a bit nasty,” reports Don Bowie, “but in reality, it’s pretty easy terrain, especially with the fixed rope in place.” Photo: Don Bowie

Nanga Parbat

Sergi Mingote summited Nanga Parbat last week and has hopped over to the Gasherbrums. Armed with a double permit, he hopes to add numbers 6 and 7 to his list of 8000’ers this year. His brief stopover in Skardu last Friday gave the Catalan climber some high-speed wifi, which he used to upload the very cool video below.

Mingote summited with no HA porters or supplemental O2. His partner, Moesses Fiamoncini, earned the first Brazilian ascent of Nanga Parbat. “Nanga was a beautiful yet tough mountain, and there were no fixed ropes between Camp 4 and the summit,” Mingote wrote. “We chose to take the Sadpara Variation, which goes up the right side of a snow couloir … [to] a ridge of demanding mixed terrain.”

Mingote highlighted the teamwork on the mountain. “We were less than 15 climbers in Base Camp, but we all collaborated to make our dream come true.”

He assesses the climb as one of the two hardest he’s done, along with his descent from K2 last year. He dedicated the summit to Lhotse-Everest mate Juan Pablo Mohr, who couldn’t attend because of family reasons, as well as fellow summiters Cala Cimenti (an old friend of Mingote’s) and Stefi Troguet, who “passed her first 8000’er exam with honours.”

Karakorum Today: Hidden Peak, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum
Stefi Troguet and Nirmal Purba (on the right) with their Sherpa team. Photo: Stefi Troguet

Flying uncharacteristically under the radar, Nirmal Purba also summited Nanga Parbat, but no details were then provided about whether he used O2, Sherpas, or when he arrived or reached the summit. Such details are not mandatory, but sort of expected from record seekers.

He might have remained anonymous, if he weren’t climbing with a social media expert like Stefi Troguet. She kept his secret almost till the end, but finally spilled the beans yesterday. She also revealed that Ali Sadpara called off his climb because of frostbite.

Finally, Purba himself posted on Twitter: “Mingma David Sherpa, Lakpa Dendi Sherpa, Walung Dorje Sherpa, Galjen Sherpa and Stefi Troguet, the team that stood at the top of Nanga Parbat, seventh of 14 mountains.” He alluded to a new route they opened — perhaps referring to the Sadpara Variation? — although no one else, including Troguet, mentions a new route.

Meanwhile, French media confirmed that guide Boris Langenstein climbed Nanga Parbat on July 2 and skied down from 50 metres below the summit. Langestein says that he kept his skis on the whole time, but he had to cling to fixed ropes on a steep, icy section right below Camp 3.

His partner, Tiphaine Duperier, stopped climbing at 7,800m, but she waited for him, and the pair skied down together. They had recently summited 7,027m Spantik together. Taking advantage of their acclimatization, they were airlifted to Nanga’s BC.  Their quick summit push took them a total of four nights, including a failed first summit attempt from C4.

Last but not least, on K2…

K2 summits might come sooner than expected, since rope fixing has gone remarkably fast — the bright side of so many teams on the mountain. Seven Summit Treks reports that rope is fixed as far as Camp 4.

High-quality alpinism on lesser peaks

One of the most remarkable climbs of the season has just taken place on the difficult Rakaposhi (which misses 8000’er status by just 212 metres). Here, Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima of Japan opened a bold new route on the south side, alpine style. They reached the summit on July 2 and made it safely back to Base Camp. Further details and pictures are expected.

Karakorum Today: Hidden Peak, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum
Rakaposhi at sunset. Photo: Fawad Malik

Finally, PlanetMountain has posted some details of Simon Messner’s ascent of Toshe III (locally known as Geshot Peak). The 29-year old climber completed his ascent solo, after his mates — Günther Göberl, Robert Neumeyer and his legendary father Reinhold — called off their attempt because of the difficult conditions. “Simon ascended to ABC, located at about 4,600m, on his own, then set off early on 29 June, requiring 5.5 hours to reach the summit,” the Italian portal reported.

by Angela Benavides

This article first appeared on http://explorersweb.com. The original can be read here.

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Sir Richard Branson 'seconds from death' on charity Mont Blanc climb
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Over 200 climbers scale Mt Manaslu
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Carlos Soria abandons his expedition on Mt Dhaulagiri
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American climbers perform a record ski descent on Mt Lhotse
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Team of blind climbers summit Mt Kilimanjaro
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Climber Attacked With Crampon On Manaslu
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Dhaulagiri and Cho Oyu in one season
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Carlos Soria Returns to Dhaulagiri for One More Try
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France to impose daily cap of 214 climbers on Mont Blanc
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Foreign climbers stranded on Mt Manaslu
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200 foreigners to climb Mt Manaslu this autumn
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Kids Meet a Mountaineer
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Alex Honnold scales exterior of N.J.'s tallest apartment tower
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Freeride in Death Zone. Two Alpinist Will Ski From Annapurna
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Everest North Side Goes Green
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Irish boy sets 'world record' by climbing highest North African peak in Morocco
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David Lama Lunag Ri Solo Ascent Video
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First Ascent of Cerro Mangiafuoco
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Winter 8000’ers: K2 Teams Unite
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Simone Moro to Put up a Surprise on Mt Manaslu this Winter
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Crossing Antarctica: How the Confusion Began and Where Do We Go From Here
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Climber, 68, Rescued from Mount Hood after Whiteout
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Lonnie Dupre Aborts Mount Hunter Solo
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Sherpa Climbers Seek Social Security
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Climbers Shrug off Harsh Weather, Vow to Scale K2
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China To Cut Everest Climber Numbers To Clean Up World's Highest Peak
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Winter 2019: Simone Moro and Pemba Gyalje Sherpa Returned from 6400m
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Free Solo Nominated for Oscar!
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David Lama: the Valsertal Sagzahn - Verschneidung Video
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Climbers Resume Efforts to Scale K2, Nanga Parbat as Weather Improves
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Four Sherpa Climbers Evacuated from GHT High Route
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Great Motivation: First Indoor Climb at 99!
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Yuichiro Miura, 86, Aborts Climb of Mt. Aconcagua
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Indigenous Bolivian Women Summit Aconcagua
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Rising Temperatures Could Melt Most Himalayan Glaciers by 2100
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Mountaineer Mingma Gyabu Sherpa Feted with Piolets d’Or Asia Awards
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Two Climbers Quit Nanga Parbat
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Paralysis Can’t Stop This Climber’s Reach
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Experience: I Climbed 61 Mountains in a Year
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2011: First Winter Ascent of Gasherbrum II
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Indian Woman Makes History With Her Climb Up Sacred Mountain
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Annapurna, Thank You for Being Alive
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China Closes Everest Base Camp to Tourists Until Further Notice to Tackle Mountain of Rubbish
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Man Who Strangled Mountain Lion Makes First Public Appearance
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Pou Brothers Put Up New Route in Patagonia
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Big New Dolomites Winter Climb
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Fingerless S. Korean Climber Has Reached the Summit of Gasherbrum I
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Tom Ballard Reaches Camp 1 on Nanga Parbat
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Fabian Buhl, Alexander Huber Climb Choktoi Ri in Karakorum, Pakistan
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Incredible ‘Mountain Ghost’ Caught on Film Lurking at the Top of Irish Mountain
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'Warm' Ice in World's Highest Glacier
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Yuichiro Miura, 86, to ‘hang on to the last’ in summit attempt of Mt Aconcagua
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Latok I: Impossible Is Not Forever
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Never-Seen Images from the First Ski Descent of Lhotse
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Adelaide Woman Could Become First in History to Complete Explorers' Grand Slam
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Dueling Teams Ready to Attempt K2 in Winter
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Eight Climbs at 80 Years Old for Fundraising
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Interview: David Lama on His Lunag Ri Solo
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Coedpoeth Mountaineer Leads Team to Summit of Himalayan Peak that Has Never Been Scaled Before
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Polish Climber to Join K2 Expedition
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Maria Tolokonina and Nikolai Kuzovlev Win Combined Worlds in Moscow
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Lonnie Dupre to Attempt First Solo Winter Ascent of Begguya (Mt. Hunter), Alaska
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Bodies of climbers found in Himalayas 30 years after they disappeared
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Nepali Climbers Scale Highest Peak in South America
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Sherpa Widows to Climb Everest to Inspire Single Women
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Colin O’Brady Becomes First Person to Cross Antarctica Solo
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Mountaineers Carving New Route to Climb Nanga Parbat
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Urubko and Barnasse Target New Routes in Patagonia
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Zabardast: Incredible Freeride Skiing in the Heart of the Karakorum
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Malaysian climber missing on Mt Annapurna
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Tributes to 'Incredible Mountaineer' Who Died During Ben Hope Climb
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Bodies of Seven Missing Climbers Recovered From the Himalayas
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Thousands raised for missing climbers
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Two Dead on Kangchenjunga
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Nanga Parbat: New Avalanche on Mummery Spur; Weather Hampers Rescue Effort
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Breaking: Wrecked Tent and Avalanche Debris Spotted on Nanga Parbat
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Tom Ballard and Daniel Nardi Missing on Nanga Parbat; Rescue Operation Underway
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Bodies of three mountain climbers recovered after last week's Banff avalanche
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Updated: K2 and Nanga Parbat Action is On!
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Swiss Climbers Slammed for Landing Plane Near Top of Mont Blanc
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Freesoloist Austin Howell Dies in Fall
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Three killed, three injured in Lukla crash
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‘Green Boots’: The Most Famous Body on Mt Everest
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Breaking: Weather Forecast Changes for the Worse on K2
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Experienced Scots Climber Named Among Those Killed in Avalanche in the Himalayas
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Mount Everest Weather Forecast Updates
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Karakorum: Great Weather, Early Successes
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Peruvian Climber Dies on Nepal's Mt Makalu
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95 Years Ago, Everest Was Just as Deadly but Much Less Crowded
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Avalanche Strands 4 Italians, 3 Local Climbers in Pakistan
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Search called off for missing Himalayan climbers
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4 Climbers Stranded on Treacherous Mount Rainier Route
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Malaysian Climber, Who Was Rescued Alive from Mt Annapurna, Dies in Singapore
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Under Cyclone Fani Impact, 20 Tents Blown Off At Everest Camp
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Gone but Not Forgotten: Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard
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Nanda Devi: Helicopters Join Search For Eight Missing Climbers
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Dodging Avalanches, Simone Moro Abandons Manaslu
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Bodies of 5 Missing Mountaineers Spotted Near Avalanche-hit Nanda Devi Peak
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Sixty Years Later, Russia Is Still Trying to Figure Out What Killed These Hikers
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Climber Rescued After Breaking Leg in Avalanche on Mount Snowdon
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Irish Professor Seamus Lawless Missing Near Balcony Area on Mt Everest
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American Climber Dies from HAPE on Mt Ama Dablam
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Hurricane Heading for Winter K2
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Bielecki and Berg Call Off Annapurna
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Three Indian Climbers Make Fake Everest Summit Claim?
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Bodies of Nardi and Ballard found on Pakistan's "Killer Mountain"
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Louis Vuitton Sells $1,590 Chalk Bag
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Scientists Find Warm Ice in World’s Highest Glacier
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Winter K2 Wins Again: It’s Over for Pivtsov’s Team
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Everest 2019: New Route Attempt
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Argentine Authorities Find Body Believed to be Spanish Climber Missing for 30 Years
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Melting Mount Everest glaciers reveal dead climbers' bodies: report
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