Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
5 years ago
Karakorum Today: Hidden Peak, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum
Hidden Peak is the latest 8000’er summited this season, but things are also moving fast on neighbouring Gasherbrum II and on K2. On Nanga Parbat, meanwhile, the job is done, and it’s time to head home.
Marco Confortola (left) with Maria Cardell and Denis Urubko in Gasherbrum Base Camp. Urubko and Cardell are acclimatizing on GII's normal route before attempting a new line
Besides the giants, some meritorious climbs have taken place on slightly smaller peaks, such as the new route on Rakaposhi South Face and Simon Messner’s solo of Toshe III.
Action on the Gasherbrums
A Korean team led by Kim Hongbin bagged the season’s first climb of Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I) yesterday. Fellow summiters included Cho Cheol Hee, Cheong Ha Young, Pechhumbe Sherpa from Nepal and Pakistani climber Muhammad.
Alex Gavan fixing rope on Gasherbrum II’s Banana Couloir. Photo: Samu Sherpa
On neighboring Gasherbrum II, a number of strong climbers seem to be enjoying themselves: “What a feeling of freedom, what a feeling of joy,” exclaimed Romanian Alex Gavan.
Gavan is climbing with Canadian Don Bowie (who summited Annapurna this spring). Also poised to move up is Marco Confortola: If successful, GII would mark the Italian veteran’s 11th 8000’er.
He and partner Ali Durani are in Camp 2 for the night. Tomorrow, they will continue to C3 and plan to sleep at least two nights at altitude.
Marco Confortola negotiates the steep serac just below Camp 1. “It looks a bit nasty,” reports Don Bowie, “but in reality, it’s pretty easy terrain, especially with the fixed rope in place.” Photo: Don Bowie
Nanga Parbat
Sergi Mingote summited Nanga Parbat last week and has hopped over to the Gasherbrums. Armed with a double permit, he hopes to add numbers 6 and 7 to his list of 8000’ers this year. His brief stopover in Skardu last Friday gave the Catalan climber some high-speed wifi, which he used to upload the very cool video below.
Mingote summited with no HA porters or supplemental O2. His partner, Moesses Fiamoncini, earned the first Brazilian ascent of Nanga Parbat. “Nanga was a beautiful yet tough mountain, and there were no fixed ropes between Camp 4 and the summit,” Mingote wrote. “We chose to take the Sadpara Variation, which goes up the right side of a snow couloir … [to] a ridge of demanding mixed terrain.”
Mingote highlighted the teamwork on the mountain. “We were less than 15 climbers in Base Camp, but we all collaborated to make our dream come true.”
He assesses the climb as one of the two hardest he’s done, along with his descent from K2 last year. He dedicated the summit to Lhotse-Everest mate Juan Pablo Mohr, who couldn’t attend because of family reasons, as well as fellow summiters Cala Cimenti (an old friend of Mingote’s) and Stefi Troguet, who “passed her first 8000’er exam with honours.”
Stefi Troguet and Nirmal Purba (on the right) with their Sherpa team. Photo: Stefi Troguet
Flying uncharacteristically under the radar, Nirmal Purba also summited Nanga Parbat, but no details were then provided about whether he used O2, Sherpas, or when he arrived or reached the summit. Such details are not mandatory, but sort of expected from record seekers.
He might have remained anonymous, if he weren’t climbing with a social media expert like Stefi Troguet. She kept his secret almost till the end, but finally spilled the beans yesterday. She also revealed that Ali Sadpara called off his climb because of frostbite.
Finally, Purba himself posted on Twitter: “Mingma David Sherpa, Lakpa Dendi Sherpa, Walung Dorje Sherpa, Galjen Sherpa and Stefi Troguet, the team that stood at the top of Nanga Parbat, seventh of 14 mountains.” He alluded to a new route they opened — perhaps referring to the Sadpara Variation? — although no one else, including Troguet, mentions a new route.
Meanwhile, French media confirmed that guide Boris Langenstein climbed Nanga Parbat on July 2 and skied down from 50 metres below the summit. Langestein says that he kept his skis on the whole time, but he had to cling to fixed ropes on a steep, icy section right below Camp 3.
His partner, Tiphaine Duperier, stopped climbing at 7,800m, but she waited for him, and the pair skied down together. They had recently summited 7,027m Spantik together. Taking advantage of their acclimatization, they were airlifted to Nanga’s BC. Their quick summit push took them a total of four nights, including a failed first summit attempt from C4.
Last but not least, on K2…
K2 summits might come sooner than expected, since rope fixing has gone remarkably fast — the bright side of so many teams on the mountain. Seven Summit Treks reports that rope is fixed as far as Camp 4.
High-quality alpinism on lesser peaks
One of the most remarkable climbs of the season has just taken place on the difficult Rakaposhi (which misses 8000’er status by just 212 metres). Here, Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima of Japan opened a bold new route on the south side, alpine style. They reached the summit on July 2 and made it safely back to Base Camp. Further details and pictures are expected.
Rakaposhi at sunset. Photo: Fawad Malik
Finally, PlanetMountain has posted some details of Simon Messner’s ascent of Toshe III (locally known as Geshot Peak). The 29-year old climber completed his ascent solo, after his mates — Günther Göberl, Robert Neumeyer and his legendary father Reinhold — called off their attempt because of the difficult conditions. “Simon ascended to ABC, located at about 4,600m, on his own, then set off early on 29 June, requiring 5.5 hours to reach the summit,” the Italian portal reported.
This article first appeared on http://explorersweb.com. The original can be read here.
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Five-year-old boy set to achieve new world record after climbing equivalent of Everest in six months
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Julien Herry, Yannick Boissenot score new new descent on Aiguille du Peigne in Mont Blanc massif
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Two Turkish climbers trapped in Everest rescued
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The Ice City
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Stefano Ghisolfi: stay at home, it’s time to climb and let your imagination soar
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Icefall doctors leave for base camp to open Everest route
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Virtual reality Everest VR docuseries takes you up the world’s tallest mountain at home
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Nepal Invites Russian Defense Ministry to Climb Mount Everest
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Matterhorn mountain is lit up with 'stay home' message
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How a tiny pooch taught her human to climb mountains
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Sherpa climbers eye record speed winter ascent on Everest
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Man who lost leg in motorbike crash will attempt a gruelling trek to Everest Base Camp
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Acclaimed Polish-Russian mountaineer, Denis Urubko retires
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Tourists rescued in Ben Nevis blizzard
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Breaking: Urubko Changes His Mind, Makes for Broad Peak Summit NOW
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Idaho brothers scale 9 peaks over 12,000 feet
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South Africa’s first all-women team sets out to climb Mount Everest
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12-year-old Mumbai girl becomes youngest in the world to summit Mt. Aconcagua
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Don Bowie among 2 rescued from Pakistan's Broad Peak
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Love and Lhotse
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Lydia Bradey, first woman to climb Everest without supplementary oxygen
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There’s Still Hope for Karakorum Climbing in 2020
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Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer summit Black Tooth in Karakorum
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Latok I, Lunag Ri, Lupghar Sar West ascents awarded with Piolets d'Or 2019
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Kilian Jornet among 10 climbers to scale Mt Everest in autumn; Andrzej Bargiel eyes record ski descent
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Everest region bans single-use plastic to reduce waste
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Japanese Duo Scorches New Line on Rakaposhi
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French politician accused of doctoring photo of Alpine climb
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Everest Summits!
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230 permitted to climb six mountains this autumn
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First ascent of Link Sar
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Polish skier Andrzej Bargiel to climb and ski down Everest this fall
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Video: female accomplishments in climbing and skiing from the past 20 years
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Her goal is to become the first transgender person to scale the Seven Summits
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Peter Hillary: My father would have sighed
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China opens Everest for its nationals in spring season
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Climbers Flock to Uluru Before a Ban, Straining a Sacred Site
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Roger Schaeli climbs the Eiger 50 times
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Risht Peak first ascent in Pakistan's unexplored Yarkhun valley
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Chinese Install 5G and Live Webcam Coverage on Everest
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China to allow Nirmal ‘Nims’ Purja to climb Shishapangma
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Chinese Team to Measure Everest (Again)
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Chinese survey team plans to summit deserted Everest
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Moro and Lunger Aim For Gasherbrum Traverse
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She climbed Everest nine times and set a world record – so why doesn’t she have sponsors?
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Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher free climb The Nose on El Capitan
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Nirmal ‘Nims’ Purja sets world record scaling 13 peaks in five months
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First Israeli woman, French survivor of Nanga Parbat among 100 climbers who scale Mt Manaslu
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Nirmal ‘Nims’ Purja scales Cho Oyu; China still unresponsive to Shishapangma permit plea
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Sherpas fix rope upto Camp III on Mt Manaslu
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Never-Seen Images from the First Ski Descent of Lhotse
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406 mountaineers receive permits to climb 15 peaks in Nepal Himalayas this spring
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‘Green Boots’: The Most Famous Body on Mt Everest
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Experienced Scots Climber Named Among Those Killed in Avalanche in the Himalayas
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Breaking: Weather Forecast Changes for the Worse on K2
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Season’s First Casualty on Manaslu
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Freesoloist Austin Howell Dies in Fall
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Sister of tragic Scots climber makes heartbreaking pilgrimage to Himalayan peak where he died
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Hurricane Heading for Winter K2
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Climber Emily Harrington rescued by ‘Free Solo’ star Alex Honnold after fall
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Tom Ballard and Daniel Nardi Missing on Nanga Parbat; Rescue Operation Underway
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Breaking: Wrecked Tent and Avalanche Debris Spotted on Nanga Parbat
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Brad Gobright: Free solo climber falls to his death
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Nanga Parbat: New Avalanche on Mummery Spur; Weather Hampers Rescue Effort
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Bodies of Seven Missing Climbers Recovered From the Himalayas
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The Climbers Who Survived a Week Stuck on Mount Rainier
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Carlos Soria leaves for Dhaulagiri; Sanu Sherpa to complete all 14 peaks
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Thousands raised for missing climbers
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Tributes to 'Incredible Mountaineer' Who Died During Ben Hope Climb
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Climber Rescued After Breaking Leg in Avalanche on Mount Snowdon
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Mountaineers find Soviet-era climber’s belongings at Mount Elbrus
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Rock climbers killed in suspected cliff fall in Flinders Ranges
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Everest climbers to face stricter rules after deadly season
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Romanian elite climber killed in Fagaras Mountains
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Running, at Age 72, from England to Nepal
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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Slovenian who skied down Everest dies cutting wood
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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K2 Summit Push Aborted
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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On K2, 120 Climbers Make Their Move
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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Winter K2 Preview: Between Mountain Excellence and Commercialization
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American Climber Dies from HAPE on Mt Ama Dablam
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Search called off for missing Himalayan climbers
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China Just Closed the North Side of Mount Everest
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Nanda Devi: Helicopters Join Search For Eight Missing Climbers
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Gone but Not Forgotten: Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard
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Everest: Wind Forces Delay
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Dodging Avalanches, Simone Moro Abandons Manaslu
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Melting Mount Everest glaciers reveal dead climbers' bodies: report
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Bodies of 5 Missing Mountaineers Spotted Near Avalanche-hit Nanda Devi Peak
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Top mountain climber Andrew Vine missing for two days after avalanche
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Mountaineering’s Drug Problem
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Jared Leto recalls 'nearly' dying while rock climbing
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After Deadly Jam on Everest, Nepal Delays New Safety Rules
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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95 Years Ago, Everest Was Just as Deadly but Much Less Crowded
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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Swiss Climbers Slammed for Landing Plane Near Top of Mont Blanc
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Avalanche Strands 4 Italians, 3 Local Climbers in Pakistan
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Everest 2019: New Route Attempt
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Winter K2 Wins Again: It’s Over for Pivtsov’s Team
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Mount Everest summit attempt in winter to be first in 27 years if successful
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Scientists Find Warm Ice in World’s Highest Glacier
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Louis Vuitton Sells $1,590 Chalk Bag
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Sixty Years Later, Russia Is Still Trying to Figure Out What Killed These Hikers
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Breaking: Simone Moro Expedition Ends in Near-Fatal Crevasse Fall
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The Volcanic Seven Summits
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Bodies of Nardi and Ballard found on Pakistan's "Killer Mountain"
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Mount Everest mystery solved? Mallory’s oxygen tank ‘broken’ before summit climb
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Three Indian Climbers Make Fake Everest Summit Claim?
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Behind the scenes of the rescue of the last solo climber on Mount Logan
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4 Climbers Stranded on Treacherous Mount Rainier Route
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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