Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
6 years ago
Grossglockner: new route climbed by Hans Zlöbl and Ulrich Mühlburger
Hans Zlöbl and Ulrich Mühlburger have made the first ascent of The Power of Love, a new climb up the SE Face of Großglockner, the highest mountain in Austria.
Between 28 and 30 September 2018, Austrian mountain guide Hans Zlöbl and Ulrich Mühlburger established a new climb up the SE Face of Großglockner, at 3798 meters the highest mountain in Austria. Called The Power of Love, the new is 750m long and breaches difficulties up to V11/A1.
Describing it as "the first modern alpine sports climb" on this mountain, Zlöbl explained "In order to meet modern safety standards, the belays are all bolted.Only a handful of bolts and pegs were placed on the 11 pitches. The rest was climbed clean and was protected with trad gear. The style of climbing is demanding, a competent alpinist will need a full set of wires and cams, as well as a 60m rope. The aim of those who repeat it will be, to free the short section we breached with the use of aid."
Power of Love is a serious undertaking and Zlöbl warned "Although the route leads through a very serious and extremely friable face, the rock is surprisingly easy to climb. Sophisticated route finding resulted in a climb that is rewarding for those who repeat it. However, extreme caution and prudence are required. Objective dangers, such as by falling rocks, are omnipresent and if there is melting snow or ice the route can be life-threatening! Good conditions are often found in late autumn, when the rock face is completely dry."
This is Zlöbl’s third new route on Grossglockner. In May this year he teamed up with Thomas Bubendorfer and Max Sparber to forge Das dritte Leben- The Third life - up the mountain’s South Face, while ten days ago he teamed up with Isidor Poppeller and Chris Gruber to complete Fascilides Direkt. This follows the famous Mayerlrampe and continues directly up a steep couloir where the Mayerlrampe traverses off left.
This article first appeared on www.planetmountain.com. The original can be read here.
Photo credit: http://www.mountainrevolution.at
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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Breaking: Simone Moro Expedition Ends in Near-Fatal Crevasse Fall
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The Volcanic Seven Summits
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Mount Everest mystery solved? Mallory’s oxygen tank ‘broken’ before summit climb
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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Sister of tragic Scots climber makes heartbreaking pilgrimage to Himalayan peak where he died
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Everest: Wind Forces Delay
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Climber Emily Harrington rescued by ‘Free Solo’ star Alex Honnold after fall
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Season’s First Casualty on Manaslu
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Mountaineers find Soviet-era climber’s belongings at Mount Elbrus
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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'Too dangerous': Calls for Switzerland’s Matterhorn to be closed to climbers
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Climber Rescued After Breaking Leg in Avalanche on Mount Snowdon
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Dodging Avalanches, Simone Moro Abandons Manaslu
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Rock climbers killed in suspected cliff fall in Flinders Ranges
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Everest climbers to face stricter rules after deadly season
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Romanian elite climber killed in Fagaras Mountains
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Running, at Age 72, from England to Nepal
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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Bodies of three mountain climbers recovered after last week's Banff avalanche
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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Winter K2 Preview: Between Mountain Excellence and Commercialization
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Slovenian who skied down Everest dies cutting wood
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Carlos Soria leaves for Dhaulagiri; Sanu Sherpa to complete all 14 peaks
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The Climbers Who Survived a Week Stuck on Mount Rainier
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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