Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
4 years ago
The Everest Dilemma: North or South?
This article first appeared on http://explorersweb.com. The original can be read here.
Everest, by north or by south? More than ever, that dilemma vexes climbers who dream of setting foot on the top of the world. In the coming years, though, the question might change to, which side can you afford?
The queue of South side summiters on Everest last spring. Photo: Lukas Furtenbach/Furtenbach Adventures
In the last two decades, the Tibetan option has often seemed less appealing, promising a nightmare of red tape, restricted movement within the country, unpredictable edicts from Chinese authorities –- not to mention the fierce winds sweeping the Tibetan plateau. Why would anyone climb Everest from the north?
Until recently, there were two reasons: First, a more lax attitude toward age and disability. Nepal has banned kids under 16 from climbing Everest, and in 2017, it refused permits for both the visually impaired and double amputees. The second reason was money: Climbing fees on the North side cost less. But neither reason is true anymore.
Last year, China imposed a new set of regulations clearly aimed to better control foreign climbers and to increase the profits from summit-hunters. Although the number of permits was lower than in previous years, higher penalty deposits were required to ensure that no trash remained and that the climbers (or their insurance companies) bore all rescue costs.
Restrictions on Nepali outfitters were also announced, although later softened. The climbing fee per person on Everest’s North side increased to $9,950 plus a $1,500 trash deposit — virtually the same as Nepal’s $11,000 per person. (all US dollars)
For extra suspense, right before the climbing season began, China closed the mountain to foreigners while they conducted a clean-up operation. Companies were finally allowed in (and enjoyed the freshly paved road to Base Camp and non-polluting vehicles), but the uncertainty discouraged some teams that had not yet made up their minds.
Everest’s North side Base Camp, at the head of the Rongbuk Valley, Tibet. Photo: Furtenbach Adventures
The result: Everest’s South side became more crowded than ever, with nearly 400 permits — a record — issued just to foreign climbers, including significant numbers of newbies. Some cut-rate outfitting companies offered cheaper-than-ever rates. A short summit window did the rest. The impressive summit figures were shadowed by the worldwide scandal over the chaos on summit day, with hundreds of climbers waiting in line. Some froze to death, others ran out of oxygen. Eleven died, some allegedly due to delays and crowding.
The bad publicity prompted Nepal to create an advisory panel. In August, it came up with a set of recommendations, requiring future Everest climbers to prove previous experience on a 6,500m peak or higher within Nepal and to show that they had spent at least $35,000 on their expedition.
The panel also directed outfitters to provide personnel with previous 8,000m experience and hinted at environmentally-friendly requirements to come. A corresponding increase in climbing fees was rumored, although no confirmation as yet. Nepal’s parliament will apparently debate the recommendations sometime before spring 2020, probably not in time to enforce them this year.
Last week, it was China’s turn to move on the Everest chessboard. Its China Tibet Mountaineering Association announced steeply increased fees, especially for individual climbers and Nepali nationals, from BC staff to Sherpa guides. Foreign teams must stay at assigned hotels and are driven to Base Camp in government-managed vehicles, in either “standard” or “luxury” style.
For “standard” climbers, the overall fee (climbing permit plus garbage deposit, which totaled $11,450 in 2019) increases to $15,800 in 2020. Four-person groups may choose an $18,000 “luxury” option, which includes five-star hotels in Lhasa and four-star accommodation along the drive to BC in 4×4 vehicles. In this last case, the fee has actually lessened a bit compared to 2019. Tibet’s other two 8,000’ers, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma, have seen similar increases.
Fees for Nepali staff also increase significantly, which affects both Nepali outfitters and companies hiring Nepali porters and guides. Nepal nationals on Everest will be charged $4,500, compared to last year’s $3,300, while their fees on Cho Oyu and Shishapangma will total $4,000.
With Nepal’s Everest fees still at $11,000, Tibet has become for the first time more expensive. But the cost might be worth it, and not just to avoid the crowds, according to Everest guide and outfitter Lukas Furtenbach.
“This minor price increase comes with increased safety and comfort,” he told ExplorersWeb. “Electricity and 4G network in Base Camp, a real working garbage and waste-water management system and a Sherpa rescue team based at ABC during the summit push.” For the the last several years, he added, the North side has been significantly safer and more successful than the South.
Indeed, according to the Himalayan Database, the summit/death ratio on Everest between 2008 and 2018 is as follows: On the South side, we have 3,865 summits and 65 deaths (1.6%). The North side had 1,652 summits and 13 deaths (0.7%).
As for success rates, the South side had 6,847 attempts and 3,865 summits (56% success) while on the North, out of 2,723 attempts, 1,652 reached the top (60% success).
While the stats slightly favor the North, Nepal’s indirect advantages include more acclimatization peaks and treks, an easygoing country with friendly locals, freedom to move about without Big Brother and the tourist draw of colourful Kathmandu. Some may even prefer to acclimatize in Nepal, then head for the Tibet side of Everest.
Lukas Furtenbach, whose company is guiding both sides of Everest for the first time next spring, admits that some of his clients are unsure which to choose. “In the next few years, I can see the North becoming the premium side,” he suggests, “with only certified, strictly monitored companies and higher quality (more experienced) clients.”
In the short term, we might find that those able to pay more head for Tibet, while climbers on tight budget come to Nepal, hoping for long summit windows but prepared to endure the crowds.
What about the other Tibetan 8,000’ers?
China’s swelling fees definitely come as bad news for those eyeing Shishapangma or Cho Oyu. Because these peaks offer relatively straightforward normal routes (at least until Shisha’s central summit and Cho Oyu’s summit plateau), they have traditionally been popular as first 8,000’er experiences. They used to host expeditions in both spring and fall, which also drew collectors hoping to notch several 8,000m peaks in one year, or those seeking to avoid the post-monsoon crowds on Manaslu.
The increased cost on these two lesser Chinese peaks makes Nirmal Purja’s recent offer to open a new commercial route on Cho Oyu from the Nepal side more appealing. Purja is looking for clients to tackle the 8,210m summit without entering China. A first glimpse of the proposed route suggests its one downside as a commercial alternative: There seem to be no easy line up that ragged, steep face.
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Malaysian climber missing on Mt Annapurna
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Open, Opening or Closed: Adventure Destinations in the Summer of COVID
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Dodging Avalanches, Simone Moro Abandons Manaslu
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Nepal Closes All Mountains, Including Everest
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Updated: K2 and Nanga Parbat Action is On!
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The Climbers Who Survived a Week Stuck on Mount Rainier
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‘Green Boots’: The Most Famous Body on Mt Everest
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Experienced Scots Climber Named Among Those Killed in Avalanche in the Himalayas
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Breaking: Weather Forecast Changes for the Worse on K2
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Freesoloist Austin Howell Dies in Fall
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Season’s First Casualty on Manaslu
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Tom Ballard and Daniel Nardi Missing on Nanga Parbat; Rescue Operation Underway
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Carlos Soria leaves for Dhaulagiri; Sanu Sherpa to complete all 14 peaks
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Sister of tragic Scots climber makes heartbreaking pilgrimage to Himalayan peak where he died
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Climber Emily Harrington rescued by ‘Free Solo’ star Alex Honnold after fall
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Breaking: Wrecked Tent and Avalanche Debris Spotted on Nanga Parbat
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Nanga Parbat: New Avalanche on Mummery Spur; Weather Hampers Rescue Effort
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Brad Gobright: Free solo climber falls to his death
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Bodies of Seven Missing Climbers Recovered From the Himalayas
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Hurricane Heading for Winter K2
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Slovenian who skied down Everest dies cutting wood
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Thousands raised for missing climbers
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Tributes to 'Incredible Mountaineer' Who Died During Ben Hope Climb
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Climber Rescued After Breaking Leg in Avalanche on Mount Snowdon
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Mountaineers find Soviet-era climber’s belongings at Mount Elbrus
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Rock climbers killed in suspected cliff fall in Flinders Ranges
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Everest climbers to face stricter rules after deadly season
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Romanian elite climber killed in Fagaras Mountains
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Running, at Age 72, from England to Nepal
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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Winter K2 Preview: Between Mountain Excellence and Commercialization
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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K2 Summit Push Aborted
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On K2, 120 Climbers Make Their Move
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Karakorum: Great Weather, Early Successes
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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American Climber Dies from HAPE on Mt Ama Dablam
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Search called off for missing Himalayan climbers
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China Just Closed the North Side of Mount Everest
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Nanda Devi: Helicopters Join Search For Eight Missing Climbers
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Gone but Not Forgotten: Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard
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Everest: Wind Forces Delay
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'Too dangerous': Calls for Switzerland’s Matterhorn to be closed to climbers
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Melting Mount Everest glaciers reveal dead climbers' bodies: report
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Bodies of 5 Missing Mountaineers Spotted Near Avalanche-hit Nanda Devi Peak
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Top mountain climber Andrew Vine missing for two days after avalanche
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Mountaineering’s Drug Problem
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Jared Leto recalls 'nearly' dying while rock climbing
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After Deadly Jam on Everest, Nepal Delays New Safety Rules
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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95 Years Ago, Everest Was Just as Deadly but Much Less Crowded
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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Swiss Climbers Slammed for Landing Plane Near Top of Mont Blanc
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Avalanche Strands 4 Italians, 3 Local Climbers in Pakistan
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Everest 2019: New Route Attempt
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Winter K2 Wins Again: It’s Over for Pivtsov’s Team
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Mount Everest summit attempt in winter to be first in 27 years if successful
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Scientists Find Warm Ice in World’s Highest Glacier
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Louis Vuitton Sells $1,590 Chalk Bag
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Sixty Years Later, Russia Is Still Trying to Figure Out What Killed These Hikers
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Breaking: Simone Moro Expedition Ends in Near-Fatal Crevasse Fall
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The Volcanic Seven Summits
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Bodies of Nardi and Ballard found on Pakistan's "Killer Mountain"
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Mount Everest mystery solved? Mallory’s oxygen tank ‘broken’ before summit climb
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Three Indian Climbers Make Fake Everest Summit Claim?
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Behind the scenes of the rescue of the last solo climber on Mount Logan
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4 Climbers Stranded on Treacherous Mount Rainier Route
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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