Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
6 years ago
Honnold and Caldwell Break Nose Record (Again!), Blaze Up in 2:01:50!
Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell crushed their own previous Nose speed record of 2:10:15, set on May 30, after sending El Capitan’s iconic route in 2 hours 1 minute 50 seconds. Yeah, that’s right. 3,000 vertical feet in 2:01:50. They broke their previous record by 9 minutes 25 seconds. How’s that for an ego destroyer? You should just return that Black Diamond harness/ATC/chalkbag starter pack you bought at REI right now, because you’ll never catch these guys.
“Sadly, we got a rope stuck at the top [today] and Tommy had to rap a bit. Cost us a few minutes, I think. But good progress,” Honnold said.
The Nose used to be an epic, a voyage into the unknown. Climbers would be on the wall for four, five days. But the record has been falling fast in recent years, with Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama knocking it under three hours in 2002, and dudes like the Huber brothers bringing it further down. The all star team of Florine and Honnold teamed up in 2012 to set it at 2:23:46. It sat there for half a decade, until Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds clocked 2:19:45 last October, a time Honnold and Caldwell beat May 30 with their 2:10:15 summit. Now, these cats make the Nose seem like something you could swing on your lunch break.
A few days after their most recent record break of 2:10:15 on May 30, when asked if he thought they could push for a sub two hour time, Caldwell told R&I, “I mean we’re just going to see how it goes. I think that what we did a couple days ago wasn’t perfect. It felt safe enough too, so I think we’re both like, well, let’s just see what we can do.”
With regards to delays on their time of 2:10:15 and where he thought they could pick up the pace, Caldwell noted, “I think we can just do a little bit all over. It’s a matter of doing lots of pitches 15 seconds faster.” He noted, “I had to untie twice and pull my rope because it got stuck. … So there’s probably like two minutes worth of cluster in there that would be nice to avoid.”
Florine, the man most associated with setting and breaking the speed record over recent years, recently told Rock and Ice: “I do think they can take it under 2 hours. Neither Tommy nor Alex has trained for an ‘all out 2 hour effort’ in the past and every time they go at it their body is learning that exertion feeling. They are of course learning little secrets on the route here and there. If they can afford to stick with it for a couple more goes, I believe they’ll get it.”
2:01:50! Here’s the kind of stuff commonly done in about 2:01:50.
-Watching The Iron Giant (and crying at the end)
-Hangdogging up two 5.10s at that chossy crag behind your uncle’s barn
-Eating dinner at one of those Hibachi grill places
-Flying to Atlanta from Chicago and getting crammed in the window seat next to some dude who smells like onions and won’t stop talking about Bitcoins
If you’re me, you could spend 2:01:50 doing this shit. Or, if you’re Tommy and Alex, you could climb the Nose.
Recent Nose Speed Records
6/4/2018 – Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell – 2:01:50
5/30/2018 – Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell – 2:10:15
10/21/2017 – Jim Reynolds, Brad Gobright – 2:19:44
6/17/2012 – Hans Florine, Alex Honnold – 2:23:46
11/6/2010 – Dean Potter, Sean Leary – 2:36:45
10/12/2008 – Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama – 2:37:05
7/2/2008 – Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama – 2:43:33
10/8/2007 – Alexander and Thomas Huber – 2:45:45
Source: http://rockandice.com
Photo credit: http://www.planetmountain.com
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Peruvian Climber Dies on Nepal's Mt Makalu
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Two Dead on Kangchenjunga
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Bielecki and Berg Call Off Annapurna
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Three Indian Climbers Make Fake Everest Summit Claim?
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Irish Professor Seamus Lawless Missing Near Balcony Area on Mt Everest
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Melting Mount Everest glaciers reveal dead climbers' bodies: report
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Nanda Devi: Helicopters Join Search For Eight Missing Climbers
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Gone but Not Forgotten: Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard
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Bodies of 5 Missing Mountaineers Spotted Near Avalanche-hit Nanda Devi Peak
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Sixty Years Later, Russia Is Still Trying to Figure Out What Killed These Hikers
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4 Climbers Stranded on Treacherous Mount Rainier Route
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Hurricane Heading for Winter K2
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K2 Summit Push Aborted
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Top mountain climber Andrew Vine missing for two days after avalanche
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Behind the scenes of the rescue of the last solo climber on Mount Logan
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Brad Gobright: Free solo climber falls to his death
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American Climber Dies from HAPE on Mt Ama Dablam
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Mount Everest summit attempt in winter to be first in 27 years if successful
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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Breaking: Simone Moro Expedition Ends in Near-Fatal Crevasse Fall
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The Volcanic Seven Summits
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Mount Everest mystery solved? Mallory’s oxygen tank ‘broken’ before summit climb
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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Sister of tragic Scots climber makes heartbreaking pilgrimage to Himalayan peak where he died
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Everest: Wind Forces Delay
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Climber Emily Harrington rescued by ‘Free Solo’ star Alex Honnold after fall
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Season’s First Casualty on Manaslu
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Tributes to 'Incredible Mountaineer' Who Died During Ben Hope Climb
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Running, at Age 72, from England to Nepal
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Mountaineers find Soviet-era climber’s belongings at Mount Elbrus
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Climber Rescued After Breaking Leg in Avalanche on Mount Snowdon
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'Too dangerous': Calls for Switzerland’s Matterhorn to be closed to climbers
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Dodging Avalanches, Simone Moro Abandons Manaslu
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Rock climbers killed in suspected cliff fall in Flinders Ranges
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Everest climbers to face stricter rules after deadly season
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Romanian elite climber killed in Fagaras Mountains
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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The Climbers Who Survived a Week Stuck on Mount Rainier
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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Winter K2 Preview: Between Mountain Excellence and Commercialization
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Slovenian who skied down Everest dies cutting wood
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Carlos Soria leaves for Dhaulagiri; Sanu Sherpa to complete all 14 peaks
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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