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Daily Mountain

47 years, Australia

5 years ago

Nirmal Purja Heads to Dhaulagiri for No-O2 Summit; Camp IV Set up on Mt Kanchenjunga

A former Gurkha soldier, who is on his mission to complete all 14 peaks above 8,000 metres in just seven months, today left for Mt Dhaulagiri to attempt to climb the 8,167-metre peak.

Talking to THT, UK’s former special forces soldier Nirmal ‘Nims’ Purja, 34, said that he would attempt Mt Dhaulagiri without using supplemental oxygen. Purja has already climbed Mt Annapurna, the first of 14 mountains, last week. Purja said that Mt Dhaulagiri would be the second mountain he was going to attempt as part of the ‘Project Possible’. 

Nirmal Purja Heads to Dhaulagiri for No-O2 Summit; Camp IV Set up on Mt Kanchenjunga
Climbers acclimatisation rotation on Mt Kanchenjunga. Photo Courtesy: Hernan Leal
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Purja would be leading a five-member Nepali team comprising Mingma David Sherpa, Lakpa Dendi Sherpa, Tenzing Sherpa and Ramesh Gurung as other members of the expedition, Thaneswor Guragai, an official at Seven Summit Treks, said.

“As the only Nepali team attempting to climb Mt Dhaulagiri from its normal route this spring season, I will try to make it to the top without using supplemental oxygen,” Purja said, claiming that he used to carry oxygen tanks while climbing peaks to support other climbers in need. Purja recounted that he had offered his oxygen to an Indian climber to save her life in the Mt Everest death zone last spring season.

During the first phase, Purja plans to climb the first six peaks including Mt Everest by June 1 while he will then attempt to climb five other mountains including Mt K2 in the second phase by August 1. Then, his final attempt will begin in September with plans to climb the remaining three peaks by November 1.

According to the Department of Tourism, Purja-led expedition is the only team that obtained a permit to climb Mt Dhaulagiri via its normal route this spring season. Three alpinists – Slovakian climber Peter Hámor, 53, Romanian alpinists Horia Dan Colibasanu, 42 and 52-year-old Marius Gane – have already set up the base camp of Mt Dhaulagiri to attempt to climb the mountain via the still unclimbed Northwest Ridge.

Nirmal Purja Heads to Dhaulagiri for No-O2 Summit; Camp IV Set up on Mt Kanchenjunga
Nirmal Purja and Mingma David at the Annapurna summit. Photo: Hakon Asvang/Facebook

Meanwhile, at least eight climbing Sherpas deployed by Peak Promotion Pvt Ltd, have successfully opened a climbing route from the base camp to Camp IV on Mt Kanchenjunga.

Babu Sherpa, Managing Director at Peak Promotion Pvt Ltd, who is now at Kanchenjunga base camp, told THT that the team would try to open the route to the summit point in a next few days. “If the weather allows, we plan to make the summit attempt before May 10,” Sherpa said.

According to him, there are 17 Indian climbers attempting to climb the world’s third highest peak this season. “This is the largest ever civilian expedition of Indian climbers on Mt Kanchenjunga,” he said, adding that Umesh Zirpe-led team would also be the first civil team from Maharashtra to scale the peak.

DoT’s record shows that at least 34 climbers representing six different teams have obtained climbing permits for Mt Kanchenjunga this season.

This article first appeared on http://thehimalayantimes.com. The original can be read here.

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British climber summits remote Antarctic mountain only 10 people have ever seen
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Day hikers are the most vulnerable in survival situations
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Ben Tibbetts Becomes Second Brit to Summit All 4,000m UIAA Alpine Peaks
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Never-Seen Images from the First Ski Descent of Lhotse
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David Lama Lunag Ri Solo Ascent Video
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15-Year-Old Connor Herson Frees the Nose!
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Keita Kurakami Makes First All-Free Rope-Solo Ascent of the Nose
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Winter K2: Now or Never
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The Man Who Ran up Everest Twice in a Week
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A Marine Vet Who Lost a Leg in a Helicopter Crash is About to Scale Everest
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First Ascent in Patagonia
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Free Solo Nominated for Oscar!
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Big New Dolomites Winter Climb
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Dueling Teams Ready to Attempt K2 in Winter
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Zabardast: Incredible Freeride Skiing in the Heart of the Karakorum
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Colin O’Brady Becomes First Person to Cross Antarctica Solo
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Sherpa Widows to Climb Everest to Inspire Single Women
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Mountaineers Carving New Route to Climb Nanga Parbat
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Fabian Buhl, Alexander Huber Climb Choktoi Ri in Karakorum, Pakistan
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Maria Tolokonina and Nikolai Kuzovlev Win Combined Worlds in Moscow
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New Documentary About Everest
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First Ascent of Cerro Mangiafuoco
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Alex Honnold scales exterior of N.J.'s tallest apartment tower
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Eiger’s Hardest Repeated by Zangerl and Larcher
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Mummified body of Russian climber found after 31 years on Mount Elbrus
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The Cholita Climbers of Bolivia Scale Mountains in Skirts
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Belongings recovered, Pemba Sherpa remains untraced
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Dhaulagiri and Cho Oyu in one season
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North Ridge of Latok I Finally Climbed After 40 Years
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Eight-time Everest Summiter Pemba Sherpa Goes Missing in the Karakoram
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Fingerless South Korean scales Mt Annapurna
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7-Year-Old Becomes Youngest Girl to Hike Mount Kilimanjaro
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Kim Hong-bin: without fingers onto Annapurna
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France to impose daily cap of 214 climbers on Mont Blanc
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Bold Attempt to Ski the Lhotse Couloir
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Yuichiro Miura to Climb Mount Aconcagua at the Age of 86
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Sir Edmund Hillary's granddaughter to scale Everest in 2020
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Memorial Plaque in the name of Valeriy Rozov Opened in Moscow
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Newly-discovered pictures of George Mallory's first bid to climb Everest
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Japanese climbers complete a new route on Cerro Kishtwar's northeast face
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273 Irish Mountains in Two Months
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Route to Mt Ama Dablam Summit Opens
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Four Chinese climbers complete all 14 peaks above 8,000m this autumn
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Foreign climbers to scale K2 in winter
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Over 200 climbers scale Mt Manaslu
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American climbers perform a record ski descent on Mt Lhotse
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Team of blind climbers summit Mt Kilimanjaro
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406 mountaineers receive permits to climb 15 peaks in Nepal Himalayas this spring
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Bielecki: Why I’m Going Back to Annapurna
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NatGeo explorer Sung-Taek Hong to attempt Lhotse South Face yet again
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Vanishingly Rare: Cory Richards, Esteban “Topo” Mena To Attempt New Everest Route
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‘Free Solo’ wins the Oscar for best documentary feature
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‘The stars aligned’: Ice climbers make first-ever ascent of Canada’s tallest waterfall
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Baker Perry to lead NatGeo team on Mt Everest; John All returns for climate research
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18-year-old Malavath Poorna scales Indonesia’s Cartensz Pyramid
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Ben Nevis avalanche: Three climbers die on UK's highest mountain
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Jannu Climbers: Safe at Last
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Climbers make 1st winter ascent of Yukon's Mount Wood
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Lifelong secret of Everest pioneer: I discovered Mallory's body in 1936
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Amputee US woman left for the Mt Everest region
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Prince Harry's Hero Amputee to Climb Everest
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This Yosemite Climber Free Soloed Fitz Roy in Patagonia
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Txikon’s Last Chance for Winter K2
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What’s next for Las Vegas climbing couple after Oscar gold?
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Famous Climber Adam Ondra Does Ballet (video)
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Weary Climbers Continue Down Jannu
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Jason Momoa Talks about why he started climbing and why he wants to pass it on to his children
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Rock Stars: A Day of Climbing With 'Free Solo' Star Alex Honnold and Jared Leto
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Four Sherpa Climbers Evacuated from GHT High Route
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Yuichiro Miura, 86, Aborts Climb of Mt. Aconcagua
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Indigenous Bolivian Women Summit Aconcagua
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Rising Temperatures Could Melt Most Himalayan Glaciers by 2100
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Mountaineer Mingma Gyabu Sherpa Feted with Piolets d’Or Asia Awards
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Two Climbers Quit Nanga Parbat
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2011: First Winter Ascent of Gasherbrum II
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Peter, Horia eye record ascent on Mt Dhaulagiri
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China Closes Everest Base Camp to Tourists Until Further Notice to Tackle Mountain of Rubbish
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Annapurna, Thank You for Being Alive
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374 world climbers including 12 Nepalis obtained climbing permits for Mt Everest
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David Lama and Hansjörg Auer Missing After Avalanche in Canada
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Chinese Double Amputee Xia Wins Laureus Sporting Moment Of the Year
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Irish Professor Seamus Lawless Missing Near Balcony Area on Mt Everest
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Everest: A new chapter in the search for British climber Sandy Irvine
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Andrzej Bargiel’s K2 ski descent / The revolutionary use of drones in High Altitude Mountaineering?
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Dozens of people with COVID-19 were likely on Mount Everest this climbing season
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Crieff boy, 11, youngest to climb the Matterhorn
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A 12-Year-Old Girl Will Try to Climb Broad Peak
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Two Dead on Kangchenjunga
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Bielecki and Berg Call Off Annapurna
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48 noted polar explorers declare support for National Geographic criticism of Portlander Colin O’Brady
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In Nepal, Sherpas are losing vital tourism income, but 'stopping the virus is more important than our jobs'
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2020 season climbing permits for Denali and Mount Foraker suspended
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Argentine Authorities Find Body Believed to be Spanish Climber Missing for 30 Years
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First Summit of 2020 in Nepal, Death and Rescue in Pakistan
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Search and Rescue Groups Urge People to Stop Climbing Cabinetry During Pandemic
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British climber didn’t know world was on lockdown until getting to Everest base camp
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Peruvian Climber Dies on Nepal's Mt Makalu
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Malaysian Climber, Who Was Rescued Alive from Mt Annapurna, Dies in Singapore
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Everest: Ice Fall Doctors Begin Work as Winter Officially Ends in Nepal
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Under Cyclone Fani Impact, 20 Tents Blown Off At Everest Camp
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Mount Fuji to be closed during this summer climbing season
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Annapurna Summit Push Begins
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Ed Jackson: The quadriplegic climber scaling Everest in his parents’ house
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Great Survival Stories
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Bodies of three mountain climbers recovered after last week's Banff avalanche
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Govt refuses Everest clean-up amid pandemic calm
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Alleged Everest Faker Set to Receive The Highest Indian Adventure Sports Honor
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Nepal records season's first summit of 8000-metre peak as climbers scale Mt Annapurna
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Mystery on Everest: did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit in 1924?
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Woman climber Tsang Yin Hung sets world record for fastest Everest climb
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As Himalayas Warm, Nepal’s Climate Migrants Struggle to Survive
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Malaysian climber missing on Mt Annapurna
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Open, Opening or Closed: Adventure Destinations in the Summer of COVID
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'Too dangerous': Calls for Switzerland’s Matterhorn to be closed to climbers
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Nepal Closes All Mountains, Including Everest
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Updated: K2 and Nanga Parbat Action is On!
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‘Green Boots’: The Most Famous Body on Mt Everest
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Experienced Scots Climber Named Among Those Killed in Avalanche in the Himalayas
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Freesoloist Austin Howell Dies in Fall
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Climber Emily Harrington rescued by ‘Free Solo’ star Alex Honnold after fall
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Brad Gobright: Free solo climber falls to his death
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Thousands raised for missing climbers
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Carlos Soria leaves for Dhaulagiri; Sanu Sherpa to complete all 14 peaks
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Bodies of Seven Missing Climbers Recovered From the Himalayas
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Climber Rescued After Breaking Leg in Avalanche on Mount Snowdon
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Mountaineers find Soviet-era climber’s belongings at Mount Elbrus
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Rock climbers killed in suspected cliff fall in Flinders Ranges
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Everest climbers to face stricter rules after deadly season
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Romanian elite climber killed in Fagaras Mountains
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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Slovenian who skied down Everest dies cutting wood
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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K2 Summit Push Aborted
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On K2, 120 Climbers Make Their Move
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American Climber Dies from HAPE on Mt Ama Dablam
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China Just Closed the North Side of Mount Everest
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Nanda Devi: Helicopters Join Search For Eight Missing Climbers
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Top mountain climber Andrew Vine missing for two days after avalanche
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Mountaineering’s Drug Problem
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After Deadly Jam on Everest, Nepal Delays New Safety Rules
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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95 Years Ago, Everest Was Just as Deadly but Much Less Crowded
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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Swiss Climbers Slammed for Landing Plane Near Top of Mont Blanc
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Avalanche Strands 4 Italians, 3 Local Climbers in Pakistan
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Everest 2019: New Route Attempt
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Winter K2 Wins Again: It’s Over for Pivtsov’s Team
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Mount Everest summit attempt in winter to be first in 27 years if successful
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Bodies of Nardi and Ballard found on Pakistan's "Killer Mountain"
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Scientists Find Warm Ice in World’s Highest Glacier
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Sixty Years Later, Russia Is Still Trying to Figure Out What Killed These Hikers
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Breaking: Simone Moro Expedition Ends in Near-Fatal Crevasse Fall
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Three Indian Climbers Make Fake Everest Summit Claim?
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