Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
4 years ago
There’s Still Hope for Karakorum Climbing in 2020
This article first appeared on http://explorersweb.com. The original can be read here.
As some countries start to see light at the end of the COVID tunnel and authorities struggle to balance safety and the economy, a few signals hint that hope is not lost for the summer climbing season in Pakistan.
Baltoro glacier from the air, Photo by Guilhem Vellut on wikimedia Commons
Like every other country in the world, Pakistan is suffering from the pandemic. Tourism had already started to decline in February, following the first whispers of the coronavirus, and the escalating crisis and lockdowns turned hotel bookings from a healthy 95 percent in January to 40 percent by early March. Presumably the decline is much, much lower now.
However, earlier this week, the government allowed some industries to reopen, mainly construction and e-commerce. While public gatherings are still banned and schools and non-essential businesses remain closed until at least April 30, the government is trying to save the lucrative climbing season.
Currently, the country’s borders are not entirely closed. The Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation has announced that those foreigners wishing to visit the country must show negative results from a PCR test taken within 24 hours of departure. The measure, which started on March 29, would allow climbers from countries with fewer restrictions and where the disease is under control to enter Pakistan by the time the Karakorum season starts. Some teams have already confirmed their willingness to come if some sort of normalcy resumes.
Ali Saltoro of Alpine Adventure Guides confirmed to ExplorersWeb that the Ministry of Tourism is determined to issue permits for summer mountaineers, as long as the pandemic is in check by the end of May. Considering Pakistan’s low fatality rates — currently 128 deaths, according to Johns Hopkins University’s running tally — this scenario is not unlikely.
“Right now, in Skardu, only five people are sick with coronavirus, all of them coming from Iran,” Saltoro said. “So far, we have confirmed expeditions for Gasherbrum 1,2, K2, Broad Peak and K6. Others [have expressed interest] in climbing 8,000’ers from the end of June, or rock climbing in July-August, if the situation is stable.”
Meanwhile, European and U.S. operators still have not made any decisions, although reservations and paperwork would require them to make up their minds within the next couple of weeks. This is also true for a number of Nepali operators and guides for whom Pakistan now offers their only chance for some 2020 income, after Nepal’s own season was a bust.
Right now, climbers’ main concern is not getting to Pakistan, but exiting their own countries, especially in the U.S. and Europe, COVID-19’s current hotspots. In Spain, with almost 20,000 dead, the situation remains dire. Sergi Mingote, who still hopes to break the record for the fastest 14×8,000 without O2, is trying to keep his spirits up and his weight down. “I am training every day, as if I was leaving for the mountains tomorrow,” he told ExplorersWeb. “I have actually lost two kilos since the lockdown. I have a plane ticket booked for June 14, and I guess I could delay leaving for another two weeks if necessary.”
Mingote hopes that the warm temperatures will slow the virus’s spread in Pakistan. However, he is aware that the weather patterns for the Baltoro gaints — including Gasherbrum I, his goal — require that they are climbed before conditions worsen at the end of August.
An open road to heaven — or, at least, to stunning Nanga Parbat. Photo: Alpine Adventure Guides
The exception — and thus an interesting option — is Nanga Parbat. “The monsoon affects Nanga Parbat differently,” Mingote explained. “It has its own climate, and that’s why it’s typically climbed first in the season, in June. But it may also have good conditions in late August or September, even though there’s less snow.” Considering this, outfitters such as Mingma G’s Imagine Nepal have already announced a Nanga Parbat climb for late summer-fall.
Like all local outfitters, Alpine Adventure Guides hopes that the upcoming season an be salvaged, both for themselves and for the local communities, especially Gilgit-Baltistan. Equally, at ExplorersWeb, there is nothing we would like more than reporting again on the expeditions setting off from the Skardu plains to the ragged peaks of the Karakorum and the mighty Baltoro. It may still happen.
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Tributes to 'Incredible Mountaineer' Who Died During Ben Hope Climb
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Climber Rescued After Breaking Leg in Avalanche on Mount Snowdon
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Mountaineers find Soviet-era climber’s belongings at Mount Elbrus
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Rock climbers killed in suspected cliff fall in Flinders Ranges
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Everest climbers to face stricter rules after deadly season
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Romanian elite climber killed in Fagaras Mountains
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Running, at Age 72, from England to Nepal
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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K2 Summit Push Aborted
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On K2, 120 Climbers Make Their Move
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Karakorum: Great Weather, Early Successes
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Bodies of Seven Missing Climbers Recovered From the Himalayas
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Thousands raised for missing climbers
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Irish Professor Seamus Lawless Missing Near Balcony Area on Mt Everest
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Nanda Devi: Helicopters Join Search For Eight Missing Climbers
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Gone but Not Forgotten: Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard
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'Too dangerous': Calls for Switzerland’s Matterhorn to be closed to climbers
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Melting Mount Everest glaciers reveal dead climbers' bodies: report
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Bodies of 5 Missing Mountaineers Spotted Near Avalanche-hit Nanda Devi Peak
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Top mountain climber Andrew Vine missing for two days after avalanche
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Mountaineering’s Drug Problem
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Jared Leto recalls 'nearly' dying while rock climbing
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After Deadly Jam on Everest, Nepal Delays New Safety Rules
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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Sixty Years Later, Russia Is Still Trying to Figure Out What Killed These Hikers
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Search called off for missing Himalayan climbers
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Mount Everest summit attempt in winter to be first in 27 years if successful
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95 Years Ago, Everest Was Just as Deadly but Much Less Crowded
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Swiss Climbers Slammed for Landing Plane Near Top of Mont Blanc
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Avalanche Strands 4 Italians, 3 Local Climbers in Pakistan
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Everest 2019: New Route Attempt
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Winter K2 Wins Again: It’s Over for Pivtsov’s Team
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Scientists Find Warm Ice in World’s Highest Glacier
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Louis Vuitton Sells $1,590 Chalk Bag
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4 Climbers Stranded on Treacherous Mount Rainier Route
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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Bodies of Nardi and Ballard found on Pakistan's "Killer Mountain"
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Breaking: Simone Moro Expedition Ends in Near-Fatal Crevasse Fall
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The Volcanic Seven Summits
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Three Indian Climbers Make Fake Everest Summit Claim?
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Mount Everest mystery solved? Mallory’s oxygen tank ‘broken’ before summit climb
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Behind the scenes of the rescue of the last solo climber on Mount Logan
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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