Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
6 years ago
Alex Honnold scales exterior of N.J.'s tallest apartment tower
Alex Honnold, the greatest free-solo climber in history, scales a luxury apartment building in Jersey City known as the Urby.
At twelve-forty-five, unable to sleep, the climber Alex Honnold got out of bed, picked up his backpack, and walked across the street from his hotel in Jersey City, New Jersey, to a sixty-nine-floor luxury apartment building called the Urby. Honnold hid his Candlewood Suites room key and his flip-flops under a fence. “Hope no one takes them,” he said, shrugging. He ate some dark chocolate, “to get amped.” Then he grabbed hold of a grate at the base of the building and, with no fanfare or dramatic final words, began heading up the building’s “northeast ridge,” as he called it, without a harness or rope.
A boyish thirty-three-year-old Berkeley dropout who often sleeps in a Sprinter van, Honnold had donned brand-new climbing shoes and applied chalk to his large hands. It had rained a few hours before, and the forecast was only getting, in his words, “more grim.” He added, “If it starts to rain again, I’ll just knock on a window, you know, and get the resident to call somebody.” Rappelling back down wouldn’t be an option. Climbing this way, without safety gear, is called free soloing. Honnold is the greatest climber of this kind in history. He earned that title last summer, when he free-solo climbed the three-thousand vertical feet of El Capitan, perhaps the most famous and beautiful rock face in the world, in less than four hours. (The first team to ascend the route, in the nineteen-fifties, took forty-seven days.) The Times called it “one of the great athletic feats of any kind, ever.” Afterward, Honnold hiked back down a trail and executed a few rounds of finger pull-ups in his van. (A National Geographicfilm about the climb, “Free Solo,” premières this weekend, at the Toronto Film Festival.)
On Thursday night, Honnold took his time, enjoying the nocturnal view of the city as he ascended the Urby’s first nine floors. The building, constructed two years ago, is a cantilevered tower that resembles a series of hastily stacked blocks. His initial route traversed the perforated metal enclosure of the building’s parking garage—its walls were full of “nice, secure holds,” Honnold said—up to an elevated terrace where, he later told me, “I fully hung out, took my shirt off to get cool.” He spent ten minutes there, watched people smoking below, and further assessed the building. It wasn’t the climbing that worried Honnold, at this point, but the windows above, where he could see lights turned on.
He wasn’t the only one with this concern. A few hours earlier, he’d discussed his plan with David Barry, the building’s developer, who had agreed to let Honnold use the Urby last month. (Barry’s lawyers finally signed off on the plan on Wednesday, after Honnold signed a waiver, lease, and indemnification agreement.) Barry had expressed mild concern about alarming his tenants, whom he’d decided not to notify ahead of time—per Honnold’s request—in order to avoid a scene. “I’ll be quiet and discreet,” Honnold assured Barry, “as long as they don’t punch through the window.” He added, “I’m not worried about people compared to stuff I deal with in nature—like when a bird comes down your arm. Or mice, or scorpions.”
Still, Barry’s team had a contingency plan. Alexander Waxman, Urby’s creative director, explained to me what would happen if a resident were to “freak out” as Honnold climbed past a window. “We’ll tell them, ‘Everything is fine. We’re aware of it. We’ll follow up with more information later.’ ”
Many who free solo at the highest level—John Bachar, Dwight Bishop, Ueli Steck—eventually fall to their deaths. Others have managed to hold on: Alain Robert, a skyscraper-obsessed Frenchman, whom Lauren Collins wrote about in 2009, is now in his mid-fifties. Honnold has voluntarily had his brain examined, curious whether his ability to hold himself together perched thousands of feet off the ground on marble-size nubs and flakes of rock, is indicative of some neurological abnormality. His emotion-processing amygdala is intact, it seems. However, an MRI scan, conducted a few years ago, showed that it was less active in conventionally frightening settings than the typical amygdala is.
Honnold can seem introverted, and describes himself as “not very warm,” but he insists that he does not have a “death wish.” Most of his climbing is roped. His free-solo attempts at El Capitan and Moonlight Buttress—a twelve-hundred-foot rock face in Zion National Park—were undertaken only after careful planning and study. (In the case of El Capitan, he practiced with safety gear for more than a year, memorizing each move.) I recently wrote about the first scouting trip that Honnold took to the Urby, a few weeks ago, during which Jersey City’s mayor, Steven Fulop, watched Honnold practice part of his route. Mayor Fulop confessed to me that he’d been drunk when he first suggested that Honnold climb his friend Barry’s apartment building, after the two of them happened to meet at the exclusive Yellowstone Club, in Montana. “But I’m still on board,” Fulop said.
“I differentiate between risk and consequence,” Honnold told me. “Sure, falling from this building is high consequence, but, for me, it’s low risk.” Then he shrugged.
Once Honnold left the building’s ninth-floor terrace, the route became more difficult: he pulled himself up by windowsills and frames, and perched on ledges the width of a fork, trying not to stare into the blinding accent lights below or dislodge the occasional security camera. He moved at what he called a “casual” pace, taking a few minutes per floor. The ledges were wetter than he’d expected. He re-chalked his hands with a pouch tied to his waist and kept moving. “It was weird,” he said later. “There were lots of people still awake at, like, one-thirty in the morning on a Thursday night.” He climbed laterally more than he’d expected, to avoid them. “I didn’t want to be encroaching on peoples’ scene,” he said. His foot slipped at one point. “I was, like, ‘This is kind of dumb,’ but there’s no real better time to do it.”
He passed people sleeping a few feet from him and tried not to bang his feet against their windows. He quickly scurried past a man who might have been undressed. He saw people watching television, staring at their computers, and doing other mundane things. “One dude took a selfie with me at one of the windows on the twenty-first floor,” he said. “I gave him the thumbs up. It was kind of a weird deal. His girlfriend seemed deeply uncomfortable.”
Honnold stopped at the twenty-fourth floor, about an hour into the climb, where a balcony jutted out far enough to give him room to recline. “There was no way to go any higher without navigating over someone’s living room, and they still had lights on,” he said. “I decided that I was done feeling like a Peeping Tom.” So he took out his phone and texted Barry to ask if someone would let him inside whenever convenient. He removed his shoes. Then he called his girlfriend, on the West Coast. He tried to stay out of sporadic rain for the next three hours. He caught up on news. “I read the Kavanaugh-confirmation stuff,” he said. “And that Times Op-Ed. What a shit show, this Administration.” Lightning struck in the distance. “It was kind of epic,” he said. To stay warm, he huddled near the exhaust coming out of an air-conditioning vent. “I also did my daily core workout,” he went on. It was the most time he’d ever spent staring at a city. He doesn’t spend much time in urban environments. “It’s kind of crazy how much light there is in the middle of the night,” he said.
Honnold compared the climb to his alpine adventures. In at least one respect, his urban free-solo adventure was more hardcore. “That’s the closest I’ve ever come to just laying out all night exposed to the elements, just waiting until the dawn.”
At ten minutes before five on Friday morning, Sandro Braga, a maintenance man at the Urby, took the elevator up to a vacant unit on the twenty-fourth floor, went inside, and flipped on a light. Braga usually responds to toilet clogs, fire alarms, and leaks of various kinds. When Honnold saw the light go on, he stood up on the other side of the unit’s north-facing window. He appeared “very casual,” Braga said, a few hours later. Braga had unscrewed the window to let Honnold in. “He seemed, you know, normal, for a guy camped out halfway up a building,” he said.
“What a night!” Honnold exclaimed, before heading back to his hotel to get some rest. “I feel good about the decision I made,” he added. Then he paused. “It’s slightly arbitrary to summit a building, anyway,” he continued. “Either way, you take the elevator back down.” After a nap, he headed into Manhattan to buy a suit for the “Free Solo” première. He had no idea where to go. “Is J. Crew a good store?” he asked.
This article first appeared on The New Yorker. The original can be read here.
by Charles Bethea
Photo credit: Kathryn Palmieri
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Govt refuses Everest clean-up amid pandemic calm
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Annapurna Summit Push Begins
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Hundreds of trekkers stranded on Nepal's mountain trails after coronavirus lockdown
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48 noted polar explorers declare support for National Geographic criticism of Portlander Colin O’Brady
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Great Survival Stories
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Remembering Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley
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Crieff boy, 11, youngest to climb the Matterhorn
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Everest: A new chapter in the search for British climber Sandy Irvine
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Nepal records season's first summit of 8000-metre peak as climbers scale Mt Annapurna
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Will corona pandemic also stop Karakoram climbing season?
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Woman climber Tsang Yin Hung sets world record for fastest Everest climb
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In Nepal, Sherpas are losing vital tourism income, but 'stopping the virus is more important than our jobs'
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Everest: The Final, Massive Summit Push Begins
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Record-breaking Sherpa says mountain goddess warned him from 26th Everest ascent
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Mystery on Everest: did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit in 1924?
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After Deadly Jam on Everest, Nepal Delays New Safety Rules
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‘Green Boots’: The Most Famous Body on Mt Everest
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Nanga Parbat: New Avalanche on Mummery Spur; Weather Hampers Rescue Effort
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Avalanche Strands 4 Italians, 3 Local Climbers in Pakistan
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Swiss Climbers Slammed for Landing Plane Near Top of Mont Blanc
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95 Years Ago, Everest Was Just as Deadly but Much Less Crowded
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Everest 2019: New Route Attempt
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Search called off for missing Himalayan climbers
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Bodies of Seven Missing Climbers Recovered From the Himalayas
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Thousands raised for missing climbers
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Breaking: Wrecked Tent and Avalanche Debris Spotted on Nanga Parbat
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Bodies of Nardi and Ballard found on Pakistan's "Killer Mountain"
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Tom Ballard and Daniel Nardi Missing on Nanga Parbat; Rescue Operation Underway
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Updated: K2 and Nanga Parbat Action is On!
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Freesoloist Austin Howell Dies in Fall
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Experienced Scots Climber Named Among Those Killed in Avalanche in the Himalayas
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Breaking: Weather Forecast Changes for the Worse on K2
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Karakorum: Great Weather, Early Successes
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Hurricane Heading for Winter K2
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Winter K2 Wins Again: It’s Over for Pivtsov’s Team
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Scientists Find Warm Ice in World’s Highest Glacier
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K2 Summit Push Aborted
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Bielecki and Berg Call Off Annapurna
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Malaysian climber missing on Mt Annapurna
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Three killed, three injured in Lukla crash
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Malaysian Climber, Who Was Rescued Alive from Mt Annapurna, Dies in Singapore
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Under Cyclone Fani Impact, 20 Tents Blown Off At Everest Camp
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Peruvian Climber Dies on Nepal's Mt Makalu
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Two Dead on Kangchenjunga
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Argentine Authorities Find Body Believed to be Spanish Climber Missing for 30 Years
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Irish Professor Seamus Lawless Missing Near Balcony Area on Mt Everest
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Louis Vuitton Sells $1,590 Chalk Bag
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Melting Mount Everest glaciers reveal dead climbers' bodies: report
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Nanda Devi: Helicopters Join Search For Eight Missing Climbers
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Bodies of 5 Missing Mountaineers Spotted Near Avalanche-hit Nanda Devi Peak
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Gone but Not Forgotten: Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard
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4 Climbers Stranded on Treacherous Mount Rainier Route
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Sixty Years Later, Russia Is Still Trying to Figure Out What Killed These Hikers
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Three Indian Climbers Make Fake Everest Summit Claim?
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On K2, 120 Climbers Make Their Move
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Tributes to 'Incredible Mountaineer' Who Died During Ben Hope Climb
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Mountaineering’s Drug Problem
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Behind the scenes of the rescue of the last solo climber on Mount Logan
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Brad Gobright: Free solo climber falls to his death
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American Climber Dies from HAPE on Mt Ama Dablam
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Mount Everest summit attempt in winter to be first in 27 years if successful
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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Breaking: Simone Moro Expedition Ends in Near-Fatal Crevasse Fall
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The Volcanic Seven Summits
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Mount Everest mystery solved? Mallory’s oxygen tank ‘broken’ before summit climb
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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Sister of tragic Scots climber makes heartbreaking pilgrimage to Himalayan peak where he died
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Everest: Wind Forces Delay
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Top mountain climber Andrew Vine missing for two days after avalanche
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Climber Emily Harrington rescued by ‘Free Solo’ star Alex Honnold after fall
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Season’s First Casualty on Manaslu
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Mountaineers find Soviet-era climber’s belongings at Mount Elbrus
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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'Too dangerous': Calls for Switzerland’s Matterhorn to be closed to climbers
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Climber Rescued After Breaking Leg in Avalanche on Mount Snowdon
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Dodging Avalanches, Simone Moro Abandons Manaslu
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Rock climbers killed in suspected cliff fall in Flinders Ranges
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Everest climbers to face stricter rules after deadly season
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Romanian elite climber killed in Fagaras Mountains
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Running, at Age 72, from England to Nepal
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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Bodies of three mountain climbers recovered after last week's Banff avalanche
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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Winter K2 Preview: Between Mountain Excellence and Commercialization
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Slovenian who skied down Everest dies cutting wood
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Carlos Soria leaves for Dhaulagiri; Sanu Sherpa to complete all 14 peaks
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The Climbers Who Survived a Week Stuck on Mount Rainier
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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