Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
5 years ago
Karakorum: Great Weather, Early Successes
This article first appeared on http://explorersweb.com. The original can be read here.
Five more climbers summited Broad Peak yesterday afternoon. The Imagine Nepal team included Phur Galjen Sherpa, Pemba Tshering Sherpa (both Nepal), Tobias Schwab (Germany), Hari Thomas Mix (USA) and Sirbaz Khan (Pakistan).
None too shabby: Base Camp of the Gasherbrums. Photo: Denis Urubko
On Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak, 8,068m), three teams left on a summit push via the Japanese Couloir. Sophie Lavaud of Switzerland Sand Dawa Sangay of Nepal (both with Seven Summit Treks) topped out, along with a multinational potpourri of climbers from Turkey, China, Hungary, Nepal and Pakistan. For Tunc Findic of Turkey, it was his 12th successful 8000’er.
Intriguing news from Nirmal Purba, currently in Gasherbrum Base Camp: Although reticent about his recent climb of Nanga Parbat — “for security reasons,” he says cryptically — he has boldly announced on Facebook that he intends to climb GI, GII and K2 within a week.
Gasherbrum I summiters Dawa Sangay and Sophie Lavaud. Photo: Seven Summit Treks
The elusive Gasherbrum VI
Meanwhile, Jerzy Natkański is leading fellow Poles Jacek Paweł Czech, Jarosław Botor and Dominik Malirz on an attempt to complete the first ascent of Gasherbrum VI. Organized by the Jerzy Kukuczka Foundation, the expedition will set Base Camp in the middle of the Gasherbrum circus (among the commercial teams targeting the “bigger” Gasherbrums), in order to climb from the peak’s south side.
They have not yet publicly shared their line, but the most obvious route goes up the Southeast Wall, which has been attempted several times but never completed. A 1993 try by Walter Hölzler and partners failed because of high avalanche risk. This inherent danger in the line showed its teeth five years later, when a slide at 6,900m caught a French party, killing one member. In 2016, Nancy Hansen and Ralf Dujmovits couldn’t find a safe route to the top.
The formidable and unclimbed Gasherbrum VI. Photo: J.Carlos Garranzo
Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo of Portugal went a little further in 2009 via the east side. The climbing couple retreated shortly before the summit ridge. “The obvious route is up the south side, which rises next to Gasherbrum Base Camp,” Teixeira told ExplorersWeb. “It looks great, but conditions must be checked carefully. Although the face is very steep, it tends to accumulate snow, and the avalanche risk is very high.”
She added: “This is why we tried the east side. Our problem was rotten rock, and in the steep upper sections, powder and unstable snow where we could not place protection. Huge cornices hung from the ridge above.”
Given the sustained good weather so far this summer, expect further news from the Poles in the days to come.
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Sixty Years Later, Russia Is Still Trying to Figure Out What Killed These Hikers
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4 Climbers Stranded on Treacherous Mount Rainier Route
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Hurricane Heading for Winter K2
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K2 Summit Push Aborted
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Top mountain climber Andrew Vine missing for two days after avalanche
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Behind the scenes of the rescue of the last solo climber on Mount Logan
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Brad Gobright: Free solo climber falls to his death
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American Climber Dies from HAPE on Mt Ama Dablam
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Mount Everest summit attempt in winter to be first in 27 years if successful
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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Breaking: Simone Moro Expedition Ends in Near-Fatal Crevasse Fall
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The Volcanic Seven Summits
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Mount Everest mystery solved? Mallory’s oxygen tank ‘broken’ before summit climb
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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Sister of tragic Scots climber makes heartbreaking pilgrimage to Himalayan peak where he died
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Everest: Wind Forces Delay
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Climber Emily Harrington rescued by ‘Free Solo’ star Alex Honnold after fall
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Season’s First Casualty on Manaslu
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Tributes to 'Incredible Mountaineer' Who Died During Ben Hope Climb
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Running, at Age 72, from England to Nepal
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Mountaineers find Soviet-era climber’s belongings at Mount Elbrus
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Climber Rescued After Breaking Leg in Avalanche on Mount Snowdon
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'Too dangerous': Calls for Switzerland’s Matterhorn to be closed to climbers
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Dodging Avalanches, Simone Moro Abandons Manaslu
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Rock climbers killed in suspected cliff fall in Flinders Ranges
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Everest climbers to face stricter rules after deadly season
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Romanian elite climber killed in Fagaras Mountains
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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The Climbers Who Survived a Week Stuck on Mount Rainier
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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Winter K2 Preview: Between Mountain Excellence and Commercialization
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Slovenian who skied down Everest dies cutting wood
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Carlos Soria leaves for Dhaulagiri; Sanu Sherpa to complete all 14 peaks
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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