Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
6 years ago
Changabang North Face alpine style by French trio
Climbing alpine style from 11 - 13 May, French alpinists Leo Billon, Sebastien Moatti and Sebastien Ratel belonging to Group Militaire de haute montagne (CMHM) have repeated the impressive North Face of Changabang (6864 m) in the Garhwal Himalaya in India.
Three days only. This is the astounding speed with which French trio climbed the spectacular summit.
First ascended on 4 June 1974 by a British expedition led by Sir Chris Bonnington vie the SE Face and subsequently the East ridge, the difficult North Face had long been described as one of the last major challenges in the Greater Ranges. It was finally resolved in 1997 by Andy Cave and Brendan Murphy who, climbing in alpine style for 10 days through prohibitive conditions, reached the summit on June 1 while their expedition companions Mick Fowler and Steve Sustad reached the summit ridge and Julia-Anne Clyma and Roger Payne stopped further down.
While this ascent crowned the attempt carried out by Murphy and Perkins the previous year with Clyma and Payne, unfortunately the 1997 summit success was marred by a terrible tragedy. Having climbed the steep north face Steve Sustad fell from the ridge, down the south face, and although he stopped miraculously after about 100 meters he was injured in the fall.
His climbing partners reached him and together they began the descent down the Normal route on the South Face of Changabang, but while 33-year-old Murphy was preparing an abseil at 6000 meters he was swept away by an avalanche and died. He was considered one of the best British alpinists of the 1990’s.
From 11 - 13 May 2018 the French Groupe Militaire de haute montagne mountaineers ascended a combination of the routes climbed in 1996 and 1997, tackling the 1200m climb and about 40 pitches with two bivouacs. According to their report, the trio stopped on North pre-summit before dealing with the "long and laborious" descent down to Pierre Sancier and Benoit Ginon at the foot of the immense rock and ice face.
The GMHM ascent comes in the wake of numerous importante climbs in the Greater Ranges. Standout climbs include the new route on Pangbuk North in Nepal in 2017 and the new route on Latok II in the Karakorum in 2012.
Source: http://www.planetmountain.com
Photo credit: Groupe militaire de haute montagne Chamonix
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Mount Everest summit attempt in winter to be first in 27 years if successful
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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Breaking: Simone Moro Expedition Ends in Near-Fatal Crevasse Fall
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The Volcanic Seven Summits
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Mount Everest mystery solved? Mallory’s oxygen tank ‘broken’ before summit climb
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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Sister of tragic Scots climber makes heartbreaking pilgrimage to Himalayan peak where he died
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Everest: Wind Forces Delay
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Climber Emily Harrington rescued by ‘Free Solo’ star Alex Honnold after fall
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Season’s First Casualty on Manaslu
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Tributes to 'Incredible Mountaineer' Who Died During Ben Hope Climb
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Running, at Age 72, from England to Nepal
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Mountaineers find Soviet-era climber’s belongings at Mount Elbrus
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Climber Rescued After Breaking Leg in Avalanche on Mount Snowdon
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'Too dangerous': Calls for Switzerland’s Matterhorn to be closed to climbers
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Dodging Avalanches, Simone Moro Abandons Manaslu
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Rock climbers killed in suspected cliff fall in Flinders Ranges
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Everest climbers to face stricter rules after deadly season
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Romanian elite climber killed in Fagaras Mountains
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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The Climbers Who Survived a Week Stuck on Mount Rainier
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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Winter K2 Preview: Between Mountain Excellence and Commercialization
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Slovenian who skied down Everest dies cutting wood
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Carlos Soria leaves for Dhaulagiri; Sanu Sherpa to complete all 14 peaks
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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