Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
6 years ago
Colin Haley dashes up Denali Cassin Ridge in record-breaking 8 hours 7 minutes
Interview with American alpinist Colin Haley after his record-breaking ascent of the Cassin Ridge on Denali (McKinley) in Alaska in 8 hours 7 minutes on 5 June 2018
After what Colin Haley himself describes as at least a decade of scheming and daydreaming, and three unsuccessful attempts (2010, 2011, 2012), on 5 June 2018 the American alpinist set a new speed record on the famous Cassin Ridge up Denali in Alaska, climbing the elegant and challenging outing first ascended from 6 - 19 July 1961 by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition in a mere 8 hours and 7 minutes from the Bergschrund to summit. Ascents of one of the most coveted alpine routes in the world usually take between 3 - 7 days and after his race upwards Haley commented that he was “happy and proud” of this achievement. Understandably.
Colin, let’s start with the route. Can you briefly describe this climb?
The Cassin Ridge is considered one of the all-time classics of alpine climbing in North America, and I personally think it is well-deserving of that status. First off, it is on North America's only 6,000m peak, which is cool. Second, it is on the sunny side of Denali, which, at those far northern latitude, is a big plus in terms of enjoyment of experience. It is a very big route (it gains about 2,500m of elevation from bergschrund to summit). The climbing is varied, including an ice couloir, mixed pitches, and a corniced arête, and the technical climbing is nice, on high-quality, solid granite.
The talk is about a new record. Can you provide us with some background info to previous fast ascents?
Technically speaking the previous record was set by myself and Bjørn-Eivind Årtun of Norway in 2010, when we climbed from the Bergschrund to the summit in 17 hours. Realistically though there were two faster times, but both were tricky to consider records as in both cases the climbers didn't make it all the way to the summit. The following times are to the summit ridge, which is pretty close to the summit: Mugs Stump in 15 hours in 1991, and Will Sim and Jon Griffith in 14:40 in 2011.
How well did you know the route?
I had climbed the Cassin once completely in 2010, and I climbed about 65% of the route in 2011 with another Norwegian friend, Nils Nielsen. So, I'd say I knew the route pretty well, but since my last time on the technical portions was 7 years ago I didn't remember the route-finding very well.
What were conditions like?
I ALMOST had the incredible fortune of tracks up the entire route, but unfortunately it snowed a few centimeters the night before, which combined with wind and spindrift filled in tracks quite a bit. So, on the lower portion of the route I had filled-in tracks, that in places were quite helpful, and in other places were so filled in that I couldn't find the track at all. Starting at 5,000m there was a track that had been made earlier the same day, and therefore wasn't filled with snow, and was extremely helpful. So, all in all, conditions were quite good for moving fast. If it hadn't snowed the night beforehand I think I probably could've done about an hour faster, which is an indication of how conditions-dependent this sort of speed climbing is.
Those 8 hours… a physical and mental test? And how did you train for the ascent?
The crux was getting off-route near the top of the second rock band, and accidentally climbing a more difficult variation. I'd say that many solos are very mentally taxing for me, especially things like Torre Egger, but since the technical climbing on the Cassin is pretty easy for me, it was more of an athletic challenge than a mental one. For training, I spent 6 weeks in Chamonix beforehand, just doing a lot of alpine climbing and ski mountaineering.
How alone were you? Did you have a backup team following progress or was this just something for you?
I definitely did not have any sort of backup team! However, I wouldn't say that I was very "alone" either... I passed three other parties on the route, and another just before the summit!
Ritual question: what gear did you take with you?
A pair of ice axes (Quark), a pair of monopoint crampons (Dart), one lightweight helmet, ultralight collapsing ski poles, ice axe umbilicals, 3.5 liters of water, 13 energy gels, 2 energy bars, 2 pairs of gloves, extra puff pants and puff jacket, an mp3 player! I didn't have a rope or a harness.
No rope or harness..
The obvious reason to leave them behind is to save weight. Of course you have to be confident that you can free-solo up, down, or across whatever terrain necessary to get yourself to safety if the weather were to change or something like that. Without a rope, your safety is completely dependent upon your ability to climb well, which is why I still choose to carry ice axe umbilicals, as dropping an ice axe would be a pretty terrible mistake.
There’s always talk about the ascent. What about the descent?
The descent on Denali is so easy that it is essentially a non-factor. So many people climb the standard West Buttress route that the way is very easy to follow, and the one steep section (55-degree ice for about 100 meters) has fixed ropes. It is a very big contrast from neighbouring Sultana, where arriving on the summit from the Infinite Spur, you really are only half-way done with your journey, the "normal" route is very complex to descend.
In the past the Cassin Ridge was considered the toughest route on Denali
Yes, but nowadays there are several routes on the southwest face and south face that are more difficult. The most technically demanding routes on Denali are the Denali Diamond, Light Traveller, and the Slovak Direct. None of those routes have been climbed solo, or climbed in a day for that matter.
Last question: how on earth did you get the pizza to Denali Basecamp?
One arrives to Denali basecamp by skiplane from the town of Talkeetna. If one is coming down to BC for a day, and you happen to have a friend in Talkeetna, then you can ask him/her to buy a pizza and put it on a plane that is bringing climbers to basecamp. So yes, I ate mine before skiing up the East Fork of the Kahiltna, just before attempting the Cassin.
CASSIN RIDGE, DENALI
First ascended from 6 - 19 July 1961 by the Italian Ragni di Lecco members Luigino Airoldi, Gigi Alippi, Jack Canali, Riccardo Cassin, Romano Perego and Annibale Zucchi, the elegant and challenging line is one of the most famous and sought-after alpine routes in the world. After the ascent Cassin was congratulated via telegram by the President of the United States of America, John Kennedy. The route is graded Alaska Grade 5, 65°, 5.8 AI4, 9,000 feet and usually takes anywhere between 3 - 7 days.
Source: http://www.planetmountain.com/
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The Ice City
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Nepal Invites Russian Defense Ministry to Climb Mount Everest
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Sherpa climbers eye record speed winter ascent on Everest
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She climbed Everest nine times and set a world record – so why doesn’t she have sponsors?
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Fabian Buhl, Alexander Huber Climb Choktoi Ri in Karakorum, Pakistan
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France to impose daily cap of 214 climbers on Mont Blanc
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Indigenous Bolivian Women Summit Aconcagua
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Team of blind climbers summit Mt Kilimanjaro
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406 mountaineers receive permits to climb 15 peaks in Nepal Himalayas this spring
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Avalanche Strands 4 Italians, 3 Local Climbers in Pakistan
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Swiss Climbers Slammed for Landing Plane Near Top of Mont Blanc
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95 Years Ago, Everest Was Just as Deadly but Much Less Crowded
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Search called off for missing Himalayan climbers
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Bodies of Seven Missing Climbers Recovered From the Himalayas
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Nanga Parbat: New Avalanche on Mummery Spur; Weather Hampers Rescue Effort
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Scientists Find Warm Ice in World’s Highest Glacier
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Breaking: Wrecked Tent and Avalanche Debris Spotted on Nanga Parbat
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Tom Ballard and Daniel Nardi Missing on Nanga Parbat; Rescue Operation Underway
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Updated: K2 and Nanga Parbat Action is On!
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Freesoloist Austin Howell Dies in Fall
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Breaking: Weather Forecast Changes for the Worse on K2
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Experienced Scots Climber Named Among Those Killed in Avalanche in the Himalayas
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Karakorum: Great Weather, Early Successes
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Bodies of Nardi and Ballard found on Pakistan's "Killer Mountain"
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Louis Vuitton Sells $1,590 Chalk Bag
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On K2, 120 Climbers Make Their Move
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Argentine Authorities Find Body Believed to be Spanish Climber Missing for 30 Years
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Bodies of three mountain climbers recovered after last week's Banff avalanche
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Malaysian climber missing on Mt Annapurna
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Three killed, three injured in Lukla crash
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Malaysian Climber, Who Was Rescued Alive from Mt Annapurna, Dies in Singapore
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Under Cyclone Fani Impact, 20 Tents Blown Off At Everest Camp
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Peruvian Climber Dies on Nepal's Mt Makalu
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Two Dead on Kangchenjunga
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Bielecki and Berg Call Off Annapurna
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Three Indian Climbers Make Fake Everest Summit Claim?
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Irish Professor Seamus Lawless Missing Near Balcony Area on Mt Everest
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Melting Mount Everest glaciers reveal dead climbers' bodies: report
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Nanda Devi: Helicopters Join Search For Eight Missing Climbers
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Gone but Not Forgotten: Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard
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Bodies of 5 Missing Mountaineers Spotted Near Avalanche-hit Nanda Devi Peak
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Sixty Years Later, Russia Is Still Trying to Figure Out What Killed These Hikers
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4 Climbers Stranded on Treacherous Mount Rainier Route
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Hurricane Heading for Winter K2
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K2 Summit Push Aborted
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Top mountain climber Andrew Vine missing for two days after avalanche
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Behind the scenes of the rescue of the last solo climber on Mount Logan
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Brad Gobright: Free solo climber falls to his death
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American Climber Dies from HAPE on Mt Ama Dablam
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Mount Everest summit attempt in winter to be first in 27 years if successful
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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Breaking: Simone Moro Expedition Ends in Near-Fatal Crevasse Fall
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The Volcanic Seven Summits
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Mount Everest mystery solved? Mallory’s oxygen tank ‘broken’ before summit climb
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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Sister of tragic Scots climber makes heartbreaking pilgrimage to Himalayan peak where he died
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Everest: Wind Forces Delay
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Climber Emily Harrington rescued by ‘Free Solo’ star Alex Honnold after fall
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Season’s First Casualty on Manaslu
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Tributes to 'Incredible Mountaineer' Who Died During Ben Hope Climb
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Running, at Age 72, from England to Nepal
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Mountaineers find Soviet-era climber’s belongings at Mount Elbrus
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Climber Rescued After Breaking Leg in Avalanche on Mount Snowdon
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'Too dangerous': Calls for Switzerland’s Matterhorn to be closed to climbers
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Dodging Avalanches, Simone Moro Abandons Manaslu
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Rock climbers killed in suspected cliff fall in Flinders Ranges
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Everest climbers to face stricter rules after deadly season
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Romanian elite climber killed in Fagaras Mountains
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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The Climbers Who Survived a Week Stuck on Mount Rainier
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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Winter K2 Preview: Between Mountain Excellence and Commercialization
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Slovenian who skied down Everest dies cutting wood
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Carlos Soria leaves for Dhaulagiri; Sanu Sherpa to complete all 14 peaks
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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