Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
5 years ago
Nives Meroi and Romano Benet: A life in the death zone
Husband-and-wife mountaineering team Romano Benet and Nives Meroi were attempting a winter ascent of the world's fifth-highest mountain, Makalu, when things went badly wrong. It was the first of two serious challenges that could have brought their climbing careers, and even their lives, to an end.
The biggest problem on Makalu was the freezing wind.
Photo credit: Nives Meroi
Considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb, in early 2008 a relentless gale was making it almost impossible.
Two years before, French mountaineer Jean-Christophe Lafaillle had died trying to make a winter ascent. But Benet and Meroi, and their fellow Italian Luca Vuerich, had not yet given up hope of success.
"For a month the gusts knocked us from here to there, and we couldn't even sleep at night," Meroi remembers.
Despite everything, the trio reached 7,000m (22,966 ft) - about 1,500m below the summit - and decided to hang on, hoping that the wind would die down.
"Instead, the jet stream exploded in a furious crescendo," Meroi says.
"We were running for our lives, when a gust of wind picked me up.
"My feet lost their grip on the gravel, I slipped between two big boulders and I fell, with my body twisting on my trapped foot.
"The wind continued to howl while I heard the sharp sound of my bone snapping."
With a broken leg, she could not move unaided.
Luca Vuerich carrying Nives Meroi - he died in an avalanche in the Alps two years later
So for two days Benet and Vuerich took turns to carry her on their shoulders. They walked through fog and along a glacier to reach Camp Hillary at 4,860m (16,000ft) where a rescue helicopter was able to pick them up and fly them to Kathmandu.
"Despite 40 years of climbing we still fear the mountains," Meroi says.
Meroi and Benet first met at high school in Italy, and started hiking and climbing together after discovering their shared passion for the outdoors.
"Romano likes to say it was a matter of convenience," Meroi says. "It was easier to have a girlfriend who could also climb, so he didn't have to struggle to find a climbing partner every weekend."
Photo credit: Getty Images
The couple's marriage, in 1989, was actually triggered by their desire to go climbing in the Peruvian Andes, on the Cordillera Blanca range.
"It was a dream we had, but we had no money or leave days," Meroi says. "So we decided to get married because our employers would give us two weeks off, and we asked our friends and family to pay for the trip."
The year after the ill-fated Makalu trip, once Meroi's leg had healed, the couple to set out to climb Kangchenjunga, the world's third-highest mountain, which straddles India and Nepal. They were closing in on the 8,586m summit when Benet felt unwell.
"I was tired and slower than usual so I decided to stop, but I told Nives to continue," he says.
If Meroi had climbed the remaining few hundred metres to the summit, she would have stood a good chance of becoming the first woman to climb all of the world's 14 peaks above 8,000m (26,247ft). But she didn't think twice about turning round.
"When I realised there was something wrong with Romano I decided to descend as fast as we could," she says.
"I thought, 'What's the point of me going up there alone?' If Romano had waited in the tent at 7,600m while I was trying to climb to the top I might not have found him alive when I came back."
Benet was eventually diagnosed with aplastic anaemia, a very rare and potentially life-threatening condition in which your bone marrow fails to produce enough new blood cells.
The couple refer to this as their 15th eight-thousander, and the most difficult one.
"If it wasn't for the difficult situations that we had experienced in the mountains, I don't think I would be able to bear all this," Benet used to tell Meroi during the months of his illness.
He was to undergo nearly two years of treatment, including dozens of blood transfusions.
"Mountaineering is about facing one problem at a time, and about knowing that every step forward is a step we'll have to take coming back down," Meroi says.
"We like to think that climbing mountains gave us the skills to face the disease. It taught us to place one step after the other, to be patient, and to never give up."
But every therapy that the doctors tried on Benet failed. Their last hope was to give him a bone marrow transplant. Finally a matching donor was found and the transplant was carried out. But it didn't work.
"The doctors had run out of ideas," Meroi says. "But then they decided to experiment with something new - in mountaineering terms, to open a new route."
They thought a second bone marrow transplant from the same donor might just work, even though the first had failed.
"The person who had donated the bone marrow in the first place was asked to go through the entire process for a second time," Meroi says. "And, bless him, he agreed to do that."
Photo credit: GIACOMO MAESTRI
"That's what brought Romano back to life. To this day we don't know who this person is, but his silent and generous act really gives us hope in humanity."
It wasn't only the anonymous donor, Benet says, who helped him to overcome his illness.
"For two years Nives was the best partner I could imagine," he says. "She never left my side. We approached it as we always do, as a team, roped together."
A few years later, Benet and Meroi put on their backpacks again and returned to Kangchenjunga for another attempt.
"I was so thrilled to be back on the mountains - it was like unleashing a chained dog," Benet remembers.
But in their excitement to be back in the mountains the pair accidentally climbed up the wrong gorge.
"I think we are the first mountaineers in the history of the Himalayan ascents to get the wrong peak," Benet says. "But for me being there and knowing that I could still make it was enough."
In 2014 they returned to Kangchenjunga for a third time.
"That time we got the right mountain," Meroi says. "We were the first climbers of the season, so we had to open the route. It was just the two of us, but when we got to the top we realised we weren't alone - the anonymous donor was up there with us, the young man without a name who had chosen to give a stranger a chance of life. We wouldn't have made it without him."
Although Meroi missed out on being the first woman to climb all of the eight-thousanders, in May of 2017 she and Benet became the first couple to climb all 14 - an achievement all the more notable for their method of climbing without Sherpas or bottled oxygen.
This brings with it real dangers.
Beyond 2,400m, the human body becomes susceptible to altitude sickness, which can progress to life-threatening conditions including high-altitude pulmonary oedema (HAPE) or high altitude cerebral oedema (HACE), when blood vessels begin leaking fluid into the lungs or brain.
By the time you reach 8,000m you have entered the "death zone", where the air is so thin it is insufficient to sustain human life.
"The human body is not designed to live at those altitudes - even a tiny problem can escalate very quickly," Meroi says. "And it's not just a physical challenge - even thinking about your next move is tiring."
The couple often climb during the night so that they can arrive at a mountain's summit just after dawn, meaning they can make their descent - which technically can be more difficult and dangerous than the ascent - in daylight.
"When you climb at night you're guided by the light of the stars and sometimes it feels like you're actually above them," Meroi says.
"And when you get to the top the first thing you experience is a sense of elation," says Benet.
"The view from the top of an eight-thousander is something you'll never forget because from up there you can actually see the Earth curving at the horizon."
For Meroi, reaching the summit of one of the world's highest mountains gives her a different perspective on life.
"You really get a sense of how fragile human life is and how small it is compared to the power of nature, and you realise that the ambitions that drive us mad at sea level are completely irrelevant up there," she says.
"I feel like I am at peace with nature and that's probably what makes me want to keep climbing, to find that feeling again."
by Sarah McDermott
This article first appeared on http://www.bbc.com in 2017. The original can be read here.
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Watch 2 Athletes Climb K2 Without Supplemental Oxygen
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Annapurna Summit Push Begins
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One Man’s Attempt to Solve a Mystery at the Top of Mount Everest
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Ed Jackson: The quadriplegic climber scaling Everest in his parents’ house
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Remembering Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley
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Everest: The Final, Massive Summit Push Begins
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Great Survival Stories
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Govt refuses Everest clean-up amid pandemic calm
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Alleged Everest Faker Set to Receive The Highest Indian Adventure Sports Honor
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Nepal records season's first summit of 8000-metre peak as climbers scale Mt Annapurna
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Mystery on Everest: did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit in 1924?
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Woman climber Tsang Yin Hung sets world record for fastest Everest climb
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Himalayas seen for first time in decades from 125 miles away after pollution drop
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Malaysian climber missing on Mt Annapurna
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As Himalayas Warm, Nepal’s Climate Migrants Struggle to Survive
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Bodies of three mountain climbers recovered after last week's Banff avalanche
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Open, Opening or Closed: Adventure Destinations in the Summer of COVID
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'Too dangerous': Calls for Switzerland’s Matterhorn to be closed to climbers
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Nepal Closes All Mountains, Including Everest
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Updated: K2 and Nanga Parbat Action is On!
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Karakorum: Great Weather, Early Successes
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‘Green Boots’: The Most Famous Body on Mt Everest
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Experienced Scots Climber Named Among Those Killed in Avalanche in the Himalayas
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Breaking: Weather Forecast Changes for the Worse on K2
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Season’s First Casualty on Manaslu
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Freesoloist Austin Howell Dies in Fall
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Sister of tragic Scots climber makes heartbreaking pilgrimage to Himalayan peak where he died
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Hurricane Heading for Winter K2
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Climber Emily Harrington rescued by ‘Free Solo’ star Alex Honnold after fall
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Tom Ballard and Daniel Nardi Missing on Nanga Parbat; Rescue Operation Underway
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Breaking: Wrecked Tent and Avalanche Debris Spotted on Nanga Parbat
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Brad Gobright: Free solo climber falls to his death
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Nanga Parbat: New Avalanche on Mummery Spur; Weather Hampers Rescue Effort
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Thousands raised for missing climbers
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The Climbers Who Survived a Week Stuck on Mount Rainier
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Carlos Soria leaves for Dhaulagiri; Sanu Sherpa to complete all 14 peaks
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Bodies of Seven Missing Climbers Recovered From the Himalayas
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Tributes to 'Incredible Mountaineer' Who Died During Ben Hope Climb
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Climber Rescued After Breaking Leg in Avalanche on Mount Snowdon
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Mountaineers find Soviet-era climber’s belongings at Mount Elbrus
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Rock climbers killed in suspected cliff fall in Flinders Ranges
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Everest climbers to face stricter rules after deadly season
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Romanian elite climber killed in Fagaras Mountains
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Running, at Age 72, from England to Nepal
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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Slovenian who skied down Everest dies cutting wood
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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K2 Summit Push Aborted
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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On K2, 120 Climbers Make Their Move
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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Winter K2 Preview: Between Mountain Excellence and Commercialization
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American Climber Dies from HAPE on Mt Ama Dablam
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Search called off for missing Himalayan climbers
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China Just Closed the North Side of Mount Everest
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Gone but Not Forgotten: Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard
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Nanda Devi: Helicopters Join Search For Eight Missing Climbers
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Everest: Wind Forces Delay
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Dodging Avalanches, Simone Moro Abandons Manaslu
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Melting Mount Everest glaciers reveal dead climbers' bodies: report
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Top mountain climber Andrew Vine missing for two days after avalanche
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Mountaineering’s Drug Problem
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Jared Leto recalls 'nearly' dying while rock climbing
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After Deadly Jam on Everest, Nepal Delays New Safety Rules
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Bodies of 5 Missing Mountaineers Spotted Near Avalanche-hit Nanda Devi Peak
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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95 Years Ago, Everest Was Just as Deadly but Much Less Crowded
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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Swiss Climbers Slammed for Landing Plane Near Top of Mont Blanc
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Avalanche Strands 4 Italians, 3 Local Climbers in Pakistan
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Everest 2019: New Route Attempt
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Winter K2 Wins Again: It’s Over for Pivtsov’s Team
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Mount Everest summit attempt in winter to be first in 27 years if successful
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Bodies of Nardi and Ballard found on Pakistan's "Killer Mountain"
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Scientists Find Warm Ice in World’s Highest Glacier
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Sixty Years Later, Russia Is Still Trying to Figure Out What Killed These Hikers
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Breaking: Simone Moro Expedition Ends in Near-Fatal Crevasse Fall
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The Volcanic Seven Summits
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Louis Vuitton Sells $1,590 Chalk Bag
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Mount Everest mystery solved? Mallory’s oxygen tank ‘broken’ before summit climb
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Three Indian Climbers Make Fake Everest Summit Claim?
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Behind the scenes of the rescue of the last solo climber on Mount Logan
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4 Climbers Stranded on Treacherous Mount Rainier Route
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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