Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
6 years ago
New Route and Fifth Ascent of Cerro Paine Grande in Patagonia
Climbers Cristobal Señoret and Max Didier ascended the southwest face of Cerro Paine Grande to make the first ascent of a new route on the peak. Cerro Paine Grande, at 2,884 meters (9,462 feet), is the tallest peak in the Cordillera Paine massif of Torres del Paine National Park, in Chilean Patagonia. The mountain group is well-known for its three Torres del Paine (Towers of Paine)—the South, Central and North Towers.
Cerro Paine Grande, however, has only seen five ascents to date. Previous ascents occurred in 1957, 2000, 2011 and 2016. The fourth ascent in 2016 was carried out by Señoret himself, along with his uncle Diego and fellow Chilean Nicolás Gutierrez. This year, he returned with Max Didier to summit the peak again, setting a new route in the process.
The team’s post on SuperTopo described the line as climbing “to the far left of the existing lines, to reach the heavily rimmed west ridge, which it follows to the summit.” The pair climbed difficulties to 90˚ and WI4.
“The idea of opening this new route came to us when we saw this beautiful wall with many possibilities for ice climbing,” Señoret wrote in an email exchange with Rock and Ice, “the truth is that we studied the place a lot, and we dedicated a lot of time to get some knowledge about this seldom visited mountain that is so special to Patagonia. So we have many lines and projects of this type in the area.”
The team reported relatively smooth sailing on the ascent, as far as first ascents of remote Patagonian peaks go. “We felt very comfortable,” Señoret wrote. “As we know the area, it was easier for us to make a good strategy. The first two days of approach the weather was very windy with some precipitation, so it allowed us to have a day of rest before the climb.” From base camp to base camp, the climbing took the pair a total of 13 hours. “The temperature and conditions were excellent while we climbed,” Señoret said, “the weather report was fulfilled as we expected.”
Their one reported snag was when Didier took a plunge into a crevasse, as the pair crossed the upper glacier. “The conditions were very windy and it was full of snow, so we found lots of crevasses that were hidden under the snow,” said Señoret. “Max fell into one and I made the stop, then I helped him to climb out, but he appeared at the surface without his sleeping bag. That left us quite scared. We lost a sleeping bag, but this was not an impediment to the climb.”
Sans sleeping bag, the pair continued on and made the summit, in just under half of a day.
Looking forward, Señoret said, “We have many projects in Patagonia. We wish to climb the Cerro Torre this winter, and to continue to make the first ascents and opening of virgin mountains. Our problem is in the resources, as we do not have enough to dedicate our lives to this.”
However, Señoret said, “We are very motivated. In a country as small as Chile it is very difficult to dedicate in a professional way to the sport as we would like, but this does not stop us from devoting most of our time to what we like the most! To climb technical mountains and, if possible, open new routes.”
Source: https://rockandice.com
Photo credit: Cristobal Señoret
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Bodies of 5 Missing Mountaineers Spotted Near Avalanche-hit Nanda Devi Peak
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Sixty Years Later, Russia Is Still Trying to Figure Out What Killed These Hikers
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4 Climbers Stranded on Treacherous Mount Rainier Route
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Hurricane Heading for Winter K2
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K2 Summit Push Aborted
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Top mountain climber Andrew Vine missing for two days after avalanche
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Behind the scenes of the rescue of the last solo climber on Mount Logan
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Brad Gobright: Free solo climber falls to his death
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American Climber Dies from HAPE on Mt Ama Dablam
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Mount Everest summit attempt in winter to be first in 27 years if successful
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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Breaking: Simone Moro Expedition Ends in Near-Fatal Crevasse Fall
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The Volcanic Seven Summits
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Mount Everest mystery solved? Mallory’s oxygen tank ‘broken’ before summit climb
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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Sister of tragic Scots climber makes heartbreaking pilgrimage to Himalayan peak where he died
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Everest: Wind Forces Delay
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Climber Emily Harrington rescued by ‘Free Solo’ star Alex Honnold after fall
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Season’s First Casualty on Manaslu
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Tributes to 'Incredible Mountaineer' Who Died During Ben Hope Climb
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Running, at Age 72, from England to Nepal
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Mountaineers find Soviet-era climber’s belongings at Mount Elbrus
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Climber Rescued After Breaking Leg in Avalanche on Mount Snowdon
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'Too dangerous': Calls for Switzerland’s Matterhorn to be closed to climbers
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Dodging Avalanches, Simone Moro Abandons Manaslu
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Rock climbers killed in suspected cliff fall in Flinders Ranges
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Everest climbers to face stricter rules after deadly season
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Romanian elite climber killed in Fagaras Mountains
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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The Climbers Who Survived a Week Stuck on Mount Rainier
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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Winter K2 Preview: Between Mountain Excellence and Commercialization
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Slovenian who skied down Everest dies cutting wood
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Carlos Soria leaves for Dhaulagiri; Sanu Sherpa to complete all 14 peaks
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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