Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
5 years ago
Denis Urubko Climbs New Route on Gasherbrum II
This article first appeared on http://explorersweb.com. The original can be read here.
Denis Urubko travelled to Pakistan this year to open a new route on Gasherbrum II. Originally, he hoped to climb with partner María Cardell, but she suffered a back injury during the trek up the Baltoro Glacier. Cardell tried to acclimatize on the normal route, but couldn’t get further than Camp 2. In spite of the pain, she remained in Base Camp while Urubko prepared for his new line by summiting the mountain via its normal route on July 18. Sticking to solo, alpine-style climbing rules, he was not supposed to step on the route before the single, definitive summit push.
Urubko hoped to rest up for his big effort, but events on the ountain did not allow. Instead, he lead three different rescues in three days, helped mainly by Don Bowie and (on the last two) by Sergi Mingote.
Back home, some praised a true mountain hero, while others wondered why he sacrificed his own chances by exhausting himself helping others. A Twitter comment from RussianClimb cogently explained the matter: “He has been raised and trained in the old Soviet school of mountaineering –- he helps because this is what you have to do.”
Meanwhile, everyone but Bowie, his climbing partner Lotta Hintsa and Matthew James from Climbing for Casualties had deserted Gasherbrum. Less than a day after he helped rescue a seriously ill porter, Urubko accompanied the threesome to Camp 1 on the glacier, at the foot of 8,035m Gasherbrum II. That day, he turned 46 years old.
Conditions were far from perfect. Slush and open crevasses increased the danger on the glacier, while unstable snow guarded the upper flanks of the peak. Huge avalanches made Bowie, Hintsa and James delay and finally abort their summit bids via the normal route.
Urubko checked conditions on his planned route and decided to go for it. On July 31, at 7pm local time, Urubko set off into the fading light, determined not to stop until he reached the top and returned to meet the group back at Camp 1.
What followed was a nerve-wracking silence lasting 42 hours. Urubko left with no satphone or radio, no tracking device and of course, no oxygen. His route was mostly out of sight from Camp 1. The climbers there were only able to spot Urubko on Aug. 1 at noon, somewhere above 7,000m.
Then the day finished, night fell and nothing stirred on Gasherbrum II. Hintsa remarked how dangerous the conditions were: extraordinarily mild temperatures during the night prevented the snow from freezing and thus firming up. Concern grew among the climbing community, although not a single voice expressed it aloud. Urubko is not any other climber, they said. He’s Denis — the one who rescues others, never the one in need.
Finally, James broke the news to his home team in the United States, and they passed the information to ExplorersWeb: ““Denis Urubko is back in Camp 1, he summited!”
Details will have to wait, since Maria Cardell reports that Urubko will proceed to BC tonight and leave for Skaru tomorrow. There is no hurry, though, now that we know the happy ending. For once, spoilers were more than welcome.
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K2 Summit Push Aborted
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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On K2, 120 Climbers Make Their Move
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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Winter K2 Preview: Between Mountain Excellence and Commercialization
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American Climber Dies from HAPE on Mt Ama Dablam
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Search called off for missing Himalayan climbers
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China Just Closed the North Side of Mount Everest
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Nanda Devi: Helicopters Join Search For Eight Missing Climbers
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Gone but Not Forgotten: Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard
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Everest: Wind Forces Delay
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Dodging Avalanches, Simone Moro Abandons Manaslu
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Melting Mount Everest glaciers reveal dead climbers' bodies: report
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Bodies of 5 Missing Mountaineers Spotted Near Avalanche-hit Nanda Devi Peak
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Top mountain climber Andrew Vine missing for two days after avalanche
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Mountaineering’s Drug Problem
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Jared Leto recalls 'nearly' dying while rock climbing
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After Deadly Jam on Everest, Nepal Delays New Safety Rules
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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95 Years Ago, Everest Was Just as Deadly but Much Less Crowded
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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Swiss Climbers Slammed for Landing Plane Near Top of Mont Blanc
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Avalanche Strands 4 Italians, 3 Local Climbers in Pakistan
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Everest 2019: New Route Attempt
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Winter K2 Wins Again: It’s Over for Pivtsov’s Team
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Mount Everest summit attempt in winter to be first in 27 years if successful
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Scientists Find Warm Ice in World’s Highest Glacier
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Louis Vuitton Sells $1,590 Chalk Bag
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Sixty Years Later, Russia Is Still Trying to Figure Out What Killed These Hikers
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Breaking: Simone Moro Expedition Ends in Near-Fatal Crevasse Fall
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The Volcanic Seven Summits
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Bodies of Nardi and Ballard found on Pakistan's "Killer Mountain"
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Mount Everest mystery solved? Mallory’s oxygen tank ‘broken’ before summit climb
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Three Indian Climbers Make Fake Everest Summit Claim?
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Behind the scenes of the rescue of the last solo climber on Mount Logan
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4 Climbers Stranded on Treacherous Mount Rainier Route
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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