Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
6 years ago
Interview: David Lama on His Lunag Ri Solo
Gazing up from base camp in 2015, David Lama and Conrad Anker repeatedly contemplated if that bare, rocky protrusion near the top of Lunag Ri could possibly be the true summit. It looked too improbable, too perfect.
But what if it was?
They failed to find out in 2015, turning around at 300 meters shy of the 6,895-meter summit. On a second attempt in 2016, things went haywire: Conrad Anker suffered a heart-attack around 5,800 meters. The pair rappelled to their advanced base camp, where Anker would be evacuated by helicopter to Kathmandu.
While they were waiting for the chopper at advanced base camp, Lama remembers Anker telling him, “Well, it’s on you now David.”
David Lama reaching the summit of Lunag Ri on October 25, 2018. Photo: Sean Haverstock / Red Bull Content Pool
In the following days, after he learned that Anker had had surgery and was stable, Lama decided to try Lunag Ri by himself. Again, the mountain turned him away.
Upon his return home to Austria, Lama spoke to Anker. He told the older American alpinist that if he ever wanted to return to Lunag Ri, to say so; that he wouldn’t go back until Anker made a decision one way or the other; that he should take his time. It was a project the two had started together, and Lama respected that above any summit.
In spring 2018, Anker came with a reply. He couldn’t justify the risk posed by a third attempt on Lunag Ri. His wife and kids were too important.
And so Lama decided to return solo. In the fall of 2018, on his third expedition to Lunag Ri, an unclimbed mountain straddling the border between Tibet and Nepal, Lama spent three-days weaving along the west ridge to reach the mysterious summit.
And what he found? Those glimpses and guesses from base camp a few years were correct: the jaw-dropping summit was as beautiful as they come.
David Lama during acclimatization at Fox Peak on October 15, 2018. Lunag Ri is in the background. Photo: David Lama/Red Bull Content Pool
Rock and Ice caught up with Lama to hear about his climb. He was in the car on the way to the airport to catch a flight to the U.S., where he will be giving The North Face feedback on some of the specially-designed equipment they furnished him with to use on Lunag Ri.
Q&A with David Lama
So how does it feel now that you’ve wrapped up your Lunag Ri story?
Well it feels good, to be honest! You know, it’s been four years. When Conrad told me last spring that he wasn’t going to go back to Lunag Ri, that’s when I started thinking about this project again and really focusing on it.
There were a bunch of people—Colin Haley, also Jess Roskelley—who said that they’d be happy to join me. But I told them that I’d prefer to go back alone and give it another try by myself.
The reason was just that it was the most beautiful way to finish the project for both Conrad and I. So I’m super glad that it worked out that way.
I wish Conrad could have been up there on that summit with me, but in the end I was super happy that it was just me by myself if he couldn’t have been with me.
David Lama climbing up a the west ridge on October 24, 2018, during his solo first ascent of Lunag Ri, Himalayas . Photo: Martin Hanslmayr/Red Bull Content Pool
After the 2016 expedition, when Conrad had his heart attack and you tried solo, did you ever think, ‘That’s it, I’m not coming back?’ Or did you always know you would return?
I always knew I was going to go back. Over the past four years since our first attempt, I’ve felt more and more connected to the mountain in some ways. It was something that I wanted to bring full circle. Even if Lunag Ri had been climbed in the meantime, I would have still gone back and given it another try.
Everything that happened, it just brought up this connection within me to the mountain. I felt like I needed to do it.
When I decided that I would go back by myself, from then on my full attention has been on Lunag Ri. I focused on it and trained for it the entire summer. I just really wanted it.
How did you first hear of Lunag Ri? What makes it so special?
I first heard about it in 2013 when I was in Alaska and climbed the Moose’s Tooth. At base camp there was an American team and one of those guys— Chris Wright—he told me about Lunag Ri, that he’d been to the region. He showed me some photos. That was the first time that I heard of this peak.
I knew it wasn’t just some random unclimbed peak; it was a mountain that was going to be difficult to ascend. And with my background in hard sport climbing, technical difficulty is obviously something I’m interested in. So yea, I felt the need to go there and attempt the mountain myself
What is it about solo climbing that appeals to you?
When you’re climbing in a team with partners, we all have those moments where we question things: Is this the right decision? We have doubts. So when you’re by yourself the amount of confidence that you need is totally different.
David Lama on October 23 in the first bivy during his solo first ascent of Lunag Ri. Photo: David Lama/Red Bull Content Pool
And the intensity of the confidence is also very different—you have to convince yourself during the whole expedition that your plan makes sense; that it’s worth the risk, the suffering, and all the things that come with mountain climbing.
That’s kind of a unique thing. In a team of two, anytime you have a small doubt, even if you don’t talk to your partner about it, just the fact that he is there, or pushing beside you, or doesn’t react to the same doubts—it is all a support system that makes it easier. By yourself you can’t rely on that.
So the ascent itself. Let’s hear it!
I was up there three days. I started on October 23, sometime between midnight and 2:00 a.m. I started that early because the lower part of the face is threatened by rock and icefall, so I wanted to avoid the sun hitting the face while I was on it.
At first I had some moonlight, then the moon disappeared, which made it quite tricky. The lower 1,000 meters of climbing this year was not covered in snow and ice. I really had to find the right connections between features—knew that would be one of the cruxes of the first day. But I ended up never dead-ending. I made my way through the lower part of the face exactly like I had imagined.
I got up onto the higher snow slopes and continued all the way to my first bivy. I spent about 24 hours there. The first day had really strong winds. They were predicted to be about 80 kilometers-per-hour, and it was minus 30 celsius. So I immediately put up my tent when I got to the bivy spot.
I woke up at 4:00 a.m. the next morning, and started climbing at 6:00 a.m. I stayed an hour longer than I had planned because the winds were so strong. The winds started to die down a bit then. I climbed the entire second day sometimes on the Tibetan side [of the west ridge], sometimes the Nepal side, but on the same basic line Conrad and I had done in 2015, and by myself in 2016.
Then climbed beyond our 2015 highpoint and put up my tent at a second bivy spot at about 6,800 meters. It was pretty high up on the mountain, just below the head wall. It was about 50 or 100 meters higher than our old high point.
From there, the third day was the big question mark. The headwall is this buttress; you can’t see the left side of it from anywhere on the route or from the lower camps. So there were some uncertainties about the line that I would pick. I knew it would have to be on left, Tibetan side, because the Nepalese side was far too steep.
I started day three at 6:00 a.m., traversed the ridge and even descended a bit. I left all my bivy gear behind and climbed as light as possible. I traversed some vertical ice slabs until I reached a system of gullies and ice slabs that I imagined would be climbable, but didn’t know if they would lead me all the way to the summit ridge.
I committed to the line I had imagined. Somewhere midway up those slabs I really had a bad feeling about my toes. I couldn’t feel my toes the entire third day. That’s where I really slowed down. I lost the confidence in my foot placements. It was very cold again. The winds weren’t as strong as the first day, probably about 30 kilometers-per-hour, so that made the cold a bit more manageable.
I tried to get feeling back in my toes and sometimes I could feel them again, but I had problems moving them around. At some point I got a bit of feeling back before it disappeared again, so I thought, ‘Well, if it came back once it’ll probably come back twice.’ So I decided to just keep going.
I moved up slowly even though the climbing was not too technically difficult. A a certain point I could see sun on the summit ridge. I could see how the terrain was getting less steep, and that’s when I was sure I was going to make it up. The terrain got a lot easier and at 10:00 a.m. I was on the summit. Spent a couple minutes up there and then started rappelling.
I rapped straight to my second bivy, picked up my gear, and continued immediately all the way to my first bivy. I stayed there for a couple hours, put up my tent again, brewed some water, and when the sun disappeared started my descent form the first bivy all the way to advanced base camp, which I reached a little before midnight .
You said elsewhere that you came close to your limit up there? What does that feel like?
I was worried about my toes getting frostbite. Friends of mine lost their toes. Peter Ortner, in particular. He lost his toes on Denali. He said he had started having problems moving his toes and they went from being ok to all of a sudden turning black. It happened quickly. So I knew that I was pretty close to the limit that I could stand.
Is it scary to think about how close to the edge you were?
It’s always good to see that line, but it’s always hard to see it until you cross. Since I didn’t cross it, it’s great, but it feels like I was really close.
It’s something that you just simply have to accept to a certain degree. It’s not like you press a button and you’re in a different world sitting in a hot tub where your feet get warm instantly. You’ll still have to get off the mountain when you decide to descend.
In mountaineering, it’s all about making decisions and looking far ahead, so the looking far ahead part—I committed to getting cold feet, to the shoes I wore, to the sock system I used, and to all the consequences that came with those things. My feet were really cold, but I’m really happy that I didn’t get any frostbite and I came back with all my toes!
That summit—what a summit! Pretty special, yea?
The summit is just a place where you can kind of relax for a brief moment. You reorganize yourself for the descent, so you have a brief moment to suck up all the views and just stand up there and enjoy it for a brief moment. And then after a little while you start preparing for your descent. So you don’t spend long up there. But it certainly was a special moment.
How technically challenging was the climbing?
In 2016 it was certainly really difficult climbing on the ridge. This year it was easier terrain a bit. Some of the slabs that in 2016 were covered in snow and ice, so I could work my way up.
But the headwall definitely had some technical difficulties. At one particular spot I was below a little roof. I placed a cam there and climbed over the roof. That was already a moment where I could see the summit ridge and knew I was super close. So I was desperately moving forward not knowing what was still ahead.
These days you focus more on alpinism than sport climbing. What factors into that?
Alpine climbing just seems more exciting to me these days. It’s the place where my heart is at this moment and where I see my future.
I really love the combination of ice, rock and snow in mountaineering and alpinism. I think it’s incredibly challenging to always decide which line and what route and what conditions and how are you going to make the best of what the mountain gives you.
It’s just a bigger and more complex challenge overall. It’s something that really inspires me right now.
What’s next for you?
I have a couple of winter ascents back home in Austria that I’d love to do. Big expedition plans for next year are not really concrete at this very moment, but I have a bunch of ideas. I’m not sure exactly where it will take me. But I’m super excited.
By Michael Levy
This article first appeared on https://rockandice.com. The original can be read here.
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Peter, Horia eye record ascent on Mt Dhaulagiri
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Meet the world’s only professional sea stack climber
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Elite climbing couple is tackling Everest and El Capitan while keeping romance alive
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Belongings recovered, Pemba Sherpa remains untraced
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Queen of Everest
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A 12-Year-Old Girl Will Try to Climb Broad Peak
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Winter 8,000’ers: Everybody in Base Camp
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Andrzej Bargiel’s K2 ski descent / The revolutionary use of drones in High Altitude Mountaineering?
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After Deadly Jam on Everest, Nepal Delays New Safety Rules
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China Just Closed the North Side of Mount Everest
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Dozens of people with COVID-19 were likely on Mount Everest this climbing season
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Sherpa siblings become first Nepali team to reach South Pole
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48 noted polar explorers declare support for National Geographic criticism of Portlander Colin O’Brady
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Nepal Closes All Mountains, Including Everest
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Pakistan's Ali Sadpara: The climber who never came back from K2
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Record-breaking Sherpa says mountain goddess warned him from 26th Everest ascent
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As Himalayas Warm, Nepal’s Climate Migrants Struggle to Survive
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Nepali Sherpas wait, grow potatoes as Himalayas remain closed due to coronavirus
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Mount Fuji to be closed during this summer climbing season
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Watch 2 Athletes Climb K2 Without Supplemental Oxygen
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Open, Opening or Closed: Adventure Destinations in the Summer of COVID
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Mystery on Everest: did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit in 1924?
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Ed Jackson: The quadriplegic climber scaling Everest in his parents’ house
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Everest: A new chapter in the search for British climber Sandy Irvine
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Crieff boy, 11, youngest to climb the Matterhorn
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Remembering Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley
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Great Survival Stories
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Govt refuses Everest clean-up amid pandemic calm
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Video: retreating Mer de Glace, Mont Blanc’s largest glacier
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Himalayas seen for first time in decades from 125 miles away after pollution drop
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Search and Rescue Groups Urge People to Stop Climbing Cabinetry During Pandemic
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2020 season climbing permits for Denali and Mount Foraker suspended
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Alleged Everest Faker Set to Receive The Highest Indian Adventure Sports Honor
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British climber didn’t know world was on lockdown until getting to Everest base camp
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Left out to freeze on K2 and forgotten
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First Summit of 2020 in Nepal, Death and Rescue in Pakistan
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Everest: Ice Fall Doctors Begin Work as Winter Officially Ends in Nepal
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Annapurna Summit Push Begins
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One Man’s Attempt to Solve a Mystery at the Top of Mount Everest
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Hundreds of trekkers stranded on Nepal's mountain trails after coronavirus lockdown
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Nepal records season's first summit of 8000-metre peak as climbers scale Mt Annapurna
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Woman climber Tsang Yin Hung sets world record for fastest Everest climb
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Will corona pandemic also stop Karakoram climbing season?
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Everest: The Final, Massive Summit Push Begins
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In Nepal, Sherpas are losing vital tourism income, but 'stopping the virus is more important than our jobs'
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Jared Leto recalls 'nearly' dying while rock climbing
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‘Green Boots’: The Most Famous Body on Mt Everest
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Mountaineering’s Drug Problem
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Nanga Parbat: New Avalanche on Mummery Spur; Weather Hampers Rescue Effort
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Avalanche Strands 4 Italians, 3 Local Climbers in Pakistan
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Swiss Climbers Slammed for Landing Plane Near Top of Mont Blanc
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95 Years Ago, Everest Was Just as Deadly but Much Less Crowded
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Everest 2019: New Route Attempt
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Search called off for missing Himalayan climbers
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Bodies of Seven Missing Climbers Recovered From the Himalayas
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Thousands raised for missing climbers
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Breaking: Wrecked Tent and Avalanche Debris Spotted on Nanga Parbat
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Bodies of Nardi and Ballard found on Pakistan's "Killer Mountain"
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Tom Ballard and Daniel Nardi Missing on Nanga Parbat; Rescue Operation Underway
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Updated: K2 and Nanga Parbat Action is On!
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Freesoloist Austin Howell Dies in Fall
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Experienced Scots Climber Named Among Those Killed in Avalanche in the Himalayas
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Breaking: Weather Forecast Changes for the Worse on K2
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Karakorum: Great Weather, Early Successes
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Hurricane Heading for Winter K2
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Winter K2 Wins Again: It’s Over for Pivtsov’s Team
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Scientists Find Warm Ice in World’s Highest Glacier
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K2 Summit Push Aborted
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Bielecki and Berg Call Off Annapurna
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Malaysian climber missing on Mt Annapurna
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Three killed, three injured in Lukla crash
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Malaysian Climber, Who Was Rescued Alive from Mt Annapurna, Dies in Singapore
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Under Cyclone Fani Impact, 20 Tents Blown Off At Everest Camp
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Peruvian Climber Dies on Nepal's Mt Makalu
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Two Dead on Kangchenjunga
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Argentine Authorities Find Body Believed to be Spanish Climber Missing for 30 Years
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Irish Professor Seamus Lawless Missing Near Balcony Area on Mt Everest
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Louis Vuitton Sells $1,590 Chalk Bag
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Melting Mount Everest glaciers reveal dead climbers' bodies: report
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Nanda Devi: Helicopters Join Search For Eight Missing Climbers
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Bodies of 5 Missing Mountaineers Spotted Near Avalanche-hit Nanda Devi Peak
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Gone but Not Forgotten: Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard
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4 Climbers Stranded on Treacherous Mount Rainier Route
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Sixty Years Later, Russia Is Still Trying to Figure Out What Killed These Hikers
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Three Indian Climbers Make Fake Everest Summit Claim?
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On K2, 120 Climbers Make Their Move
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Tributes to 'Incredible Mountaineer' Who Died During Ben Hope Climb
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Top mountain climber Andrew Vine missing for two days after avalanche
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Behind the scenes of the rescue of the last solo climber on Mount Logan
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Brad Gobright: Free solo climber falls to his death
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American Climber Dies from HAPE on Mt Ama Dablam
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Mount Everest summit attempt in winter to be first in 27 years if successful
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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Breaking: Simone Moro Expedition Ends in Near-Fatal Crevasse Fall
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The Volcanic Seven Summits
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Mount Everest mystery solved? Mallory’s oxygen tank ‘broken’ before summit climb
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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Sister of tragic Scots climber makes heartbreaking pilgrimage to Himalayan peak where he died
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Everest: Wind Forces Delay
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Climber Emily Harrington rescued by ‘Free Solo’ star Alex Honnold after fall
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Season’s First Casualty on Manaslu
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Mountaineers find Soviet-era climber’s belongings at Mount Elbrus
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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'Too dangerous': Calls for Switzerland’s Matterhorn to be closed to climbers
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Climber Rescued After Breaking Leg in Avalanche on Mount Snowdon
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Dodging Avalanches, Simone Moro Abandons Manaslu
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Rock climbers killed in suspected cliff fall in Flinders Ranges
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Everest climbers to face stricter rules after deadly season
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Romanian elite climber killed in Fagaras Mountains
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Running, at Age 72, from England to Nepal
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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Bodies of three mountain climbers recovered after last week's Banff avalanche
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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Winter K2 Preview: Between Mountain Excellence and Commercialization
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Slovenian who skied down Everest dies cutting wood
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Carlos Soria leaves for Dhaulagiri; Sanu Sherpa to complete all 14 peaks
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The Climbers Who Survived a Week Stuck on Mount Rainier
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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