Daily Mountain
49 years, Australia
7 years ago
Latok I: Impossible Is Not Forever
Alexander Gukov shares his experience of surviving alone for a week at 6200 m on Latok I (7145m) after his partner Sergey Glazunov fell to his death on the descent with most of their equipment.
[This story first appeared in Alpinist 64, which is now available on newsstands and in our online store. The issue also features other stories about Latok I by Tom Livingstone and Jim Donini. Only a small fraction of our many long-form stories from the print edition are ever uploaded to Alpinist.com. Be sure to pick up Alpinist 64 for more.—Ed.]
The pair had been trying to be the first to climb the northwest ridge of Latok I but one fell to his death, while Alexander Gukov, right, was left stranded. Photo credit: https://www.thetimes.co.uk
"Sanya, I have a proposition for you that you can't refuse," Oleg Koltunov called to tell me. "The North Ridge of Latok I." It did turn out to be really hard to refuse. The mountain looked tremendous in the photos. It was spring 2013. Our team would consist of four Russian climbers: Oleg Koltunov, Vyacheslav Ivanov, Alexander Ruchkin and me. But that summer, a group of terrorists killed eleven climbers at a base camp below Nanga Parbat, and we didn't go to Pakistan. And now I'm the only one of the four still alive. Oleg fell to his death during the Russian Mountaineering Championship in May 2015. Alexander and Vyacheslav died during the descent from Nevado Huandoy Sur three months later.
Since then, the North Ridge became my idee fixe. Alpinists had been trying to complete that route for forty years, to no avail. In 2017 I aimed to climb it with Anton Kashevnik and Valery Shamalo. Our attempt showed me that impossible is not forever. It was realistic to climb that ridge.
Three tough climbers with an ambitious goal, minimum equipment and maximum effort—that's what we needed. The North Ridge of Latok I isn't a mountain route on which you can spend two or three days and you're done. It's at least seven days from base camp to the top—that is, at today's level of alpinism. And even then, you need three things to happen at the same time: good weather, maximum acclimatization—and the best lucky streak of your lives.
Most of the past expeditions, if you take a look at them, lacked good weather, if nothing else. The North Ridge isn't just a ridge that from base camp, at first glance, merely looks long and technically uncomplicated. No. It's impossible to walk simply on the crest itself. There are numerous snowy seracs that alternate with granite walls. Last time, it took Anton, Valery and me three hours to dig a fifty-meter horizontal path across the ridge from our bivouac to the rocky part with a shovel. It was brutal. So you have to climb to the right of the ridge, on the west wall. And the more the angle of the crest lessens, the more you must traverse, following its contour. It sounds strange, but that's the way it is. Moreover, the wall itself is cut by many small, vertical snow crests, and each of these must be climbed, one after the other. And if the last person on the rope doesn't have an ice axe, and they just jumar, that means lots of leaping from one anchor to the next. I'll tell you, it's not much fun.
But back to the preparation of this year's expedition.... Three tough climbers. Whom should I call? The Glazunov brothers, ambitious young guys, known for their speedy ascents. Gukov and the Glazunovs: we'd be a force to be reckoned with, I thought.
Sergey Glazunov on the final pitch that he climbed on the North Ridge of Latok I. "He was reaching for freedom; his mode of life was unsophisticated," Glazunov's wife, Nina, wrote to Alpinist. Photo credit: Alexander Gukov
Although they'd never climbed with me before, the brothers immediately agreed to my proposal. I believed we'd definitely succeed. I launched a crowdfunding campaign to raise money to make a film. I contracted with companies to sponsor us with equipment. Everything was going well.
But a couple of weeks before our departure for Pakistan, Yevgeny Glazunov began to have doubts. I got his final No the day before we were leaving, on my birthday.
Fuck fuck fuck. Where was I going tofind a third man? We were leaving the next day. Then thoughts began to creep in my mind: It's not worth climbing as just a pair; it's dangerous; it's difficult. But mountains are always dangerous and difficult. Who can predict how accurate your misgivings will turn out to be? Maybe they're all just cowardice?
"So, Sergey, should we go as a pair?" I asked.
"I'm ready," Sergey said.
"Then let's go. Five of us will start on the mountain together, at least."
At base camp, we met up with three guys from another Russian expedition—Victor Koval, Konstantin Markevich and Alexander Parfenov—who'd arrived five days earlier.They planned a direct climb of Latok I via the North Face. It looked like an amazing, but very, very serious route. Its lower third was blue-grey ice; the middle third was snow; and the highest third was a rock wall. If they climbed it, their success would create a sensation.
But, as they drew nearer, they realized that the unbelievably warm air had melted the ice that sealed loose rocks to the face, and the entire wall was being bombarded with falling stones. They were forced to retreat.
Meanwhile, for two days, Sergey and I went over our gear—again and again—reducing it as far as was reasonable. There was an anxious feeling I couldn't shake. Oh, if only there were three of us! To our surprise, the weather stayed fine: blue skies with only a few, high clouds. All the summits around were uncovered. But at the same time, the heat was causing more and more of the mountain to crumble off: we could see the avalanches from camp, but not the rockfalls—they were still far away. From the start of the route, we looked around and didn't notice anything unusual.We planned our departure for the next day.
On the lower part, moving up the snow couloir, we tried to keep ourselves below the upper rocks to shelter from wet avalanches that rushed past. By the evening of the first day, we'd reached the spot where my partners and I had spent our second night the year before. Once we moved to the west side of the crest, however, the climbing got much harder. We knew that we'd violated the second condition for a successful ascent—maximum acclimatization. But there was no other way: either squander the good weather or finish the climb because of extraordinary health.
Yes, it was difficult, but damn it, it's Latok I. It's supposed to be difficult. Along the entire route, until we reached 6700 meters, we observed traces of past expeditions: pieces of ropes, slings, old-school pitons. The last thing we encountered was a small, dark blue haulbag, frozen into the ice. At that height, only the Jeff Lowe expedition could have left it.
"What's there, Sergey?" I yelled. "Is there food?" Food was the main thing we didn't have enough of by that point.
"No, Sanya, only stuff," Sergey said. Man, how I wanted to snack on a bit of chocolate from that long-ago expedition.
On the seventh day of climbing, when we clambered onto a huge serac, the weather turned bad: dark-grey clouds covered the top of the mountain. It started snowing. What lay farther ahead, we didn't know. We remained in the tent waiting for a clearing in the clouds. I changed the points on my crampons and sharpened the ice tools and screws. There was only enough food left for two days, and we had to ration it, since we didn't know how much time we'd have to sit there. I really wanted to order a pizza on the satellite tracker-communicator, but I didn't know where to call.
We talked a lot. It turned out that Sergey and I had many of the same opinions: we both didn't like Putin and his corrupt power system; we both liked Navalny and his "wonderful Russian future"; we were both thinking about immigrating to other countries: me to the United States, Sergey to France, where his wife Nina came from. Sergey dreamed of going to mountain guide school and learning how to lead people on trips in the Alps. A great dream. But fate had other plans.
After two days, the weather improved, and we could see the final wall. "Sanya, tomorrow is the best day, you have to get this mountain and then get the fuck off it," my friend Anna Piunova, the editor-in-chief of Mountain.ru, texted me from Moscow.
But that day didn't work out to be the best day. As soon as we began to get closer to the wall, half of the serac—on which we had spent three very quiet nights—collapsed under me with a whooshing sound. I hung over the precipice and watched the remnants of the serac sweep down and away, bringing with them everything in their path. I hadn't experienced such a surge of fear-based adrenaline in a long time.
After that near miss, we fixed two ropes on the rock wall, and we spent the night in the place that the serac had vacated. Once we'd eaten our last breakfast, we set off in the dark, traveling light. I tried to convince Sergey to take a tent with us, or at least a mat. No luck.
After 10 a.m. snow fell again, and our speed dropped. For such a height, the terrain was very difficult: steep rocks covered by drifts. Indeed, we got pretty tired. At last,the rocks ended. Ahead, however, the snow became almost vertical. Seven o'clock in the evening. It will soon get dark. We need to go down, otherwise we will freeze here, I thought. But there, a little higher, it looks like that's it, like it's the end. It looks likeit's the summit. We have to climb there.
Ten to fifteen meters above me, Sergey shouted that there was nowhere farther to go: all he saw were steep, downward slopes and snow mushrooms. He could perceive nothing above him, he said. Below him, the otherside vanished into the whiteout. Snowflakes whirled in the air. He could not belay me up there: the snow was too friable. We decided that was the summit and that we shouldget the hell out of there. After all, four and a half hours earlier, the satellite tracker had indicated that the altitude was 6980 meters.
Then it was as if everything took place in a fog. I remember that we descended to our tent and that we slept there for a long time; I remember that in the early morning we discussed whether or not Sergey had actually reached the apex of the mountain. He thought he'd arrived on the main summit. I thought he'd only gotten to the top of the North Ridge. We kept going down. Sergey went first. I went second.
For me, the descent is always the most important part. Once I've used my last iota of strength, and I've stood on the highest point of a climb, there's a click—as if one battery in my body turns off. I know I must be extremely attentive to continue safely on what energy remains.
Early the next morning, I heard the pleasant sound of a helicopter.
Are they looking for us? I thought. Not likely. Maybe the guys from the second expedition called for help because of rockfall. But the pilots were looking for us. They dropped some provisions and gas, and they flew off. It would have been impossible to pick us up at such a height and on such steep ground.
Later, from an Abalakov anchor, Sergey descended a snowy slope.
"Sergey, use two ice screws for the anchors. I don't like to stay on just one," I told him several times.
"No Alex, we don't have time for this," he replied.
He stopped on the edge, looked around intently, and then disappeared beyond a bend in a field of rocks. I never saw him again.
What's taking so long? I thought.
"Sergey, what's happening with the rappel? Off belay?" I shouted for a long time. But there was no answer.
The ropes seemed to have slackened. This must mean everything is OK. The next belay is ready.
I rappelled to the bend, but Sergey wasn't there.
Fuck, fuck, fuck....
I rappelled to the next anchor. Both ropes were attached to a solitary piton hammered into the rock. Where is Seryoga? How did this happen? I told him to use two points for the anchors! I have absolutely nothing: nothing to make the descent, and nothing even to establish a reliable anchor here. Only one hammered piton and the ice axe on my belt. Fuck. These were only some of the thoughts that coursed through my head. Then the worst realization sunk in: Down there is the dizzying kilometer-and-a-half of void where your friend fell.
Alexander Gukov is detached from the helicopter sling at Base Camp
I kept shouting and looking, but neither Sergey nor any traces of his fall were anywhere to be seen. All that appeared was a snow slope that plunged, empty, into the far distance below.
For two days, my satellite tracker wouldn't turn on—it had only 2 percent left of its battery charge. But the SOS button should work. Then: Hallelujah. It turned on. I sent a message: "I need help. Evacuation required. Sergey fell. I'm hanging on, without any gear."
Anna Piunova replied: "The helicopters will be there soon, wait."
If someone had told me right away that I'd have to stay there a week, I probably wouldn't have survived. I rappelled to a small stone ledge with the 6 or 8mm cord, tied the tent to it without poles, climbed in and began to wait.
But the helicopters didn't reach me that day. A storm blew in, and avalanches rumbled from above. And so it went on for the next six days. Each morning, I dug myself out of new-fallen snow. Over and over, I received the same messages: The next day, there should be a weather window, and the helicopter should arrive.But the next day, nothing changed. If help never arrives at all, I wondered, what should I do? Maybe try to go down myself, draping a rope over rock features for anchors? Would I even find them?
Day and night merged. The hallucinations began. I kept seeing Sergey, sitting somewhere below, half-frozen in the snow. Once, I even thought that he'd been saved.
How did this happen? Such a young guy, and he died. Did he try to self-belay on a single piton, and he fell?
The hallucinations became more and more frequent.
What's going on? Where am I? I asked myself.
You're in Skardu. You've been saved. Climb on down, unknown people answered.
As soon as I opened my eyes, I realized that there wasn't anyone nearby. All around me was just snow. The silence was broken only by the avalanches falling on me. I found half a candy bar in my jacket pocket, but heating snow for water when you're sitting in a bivy and you're constantly in the path of avalanches is problematic—to say the least. I only managed to melt four or five ounces twice a day.
After three days, the tracker finally died, and I was without a link to the outside world. Yet I could still hear the sounds of helicopters making new attempts to reach me.
If I get out of here, I'm going to marry Julia, I promised the mountain. We already have two kids.
One night, the air got noticeably colder. The avalanches stopped.
It's got to clear up in the morning, I thought. If the helicopters didn't fly in the next day, then they'd never arrive. But they did fly in—and they rescued me. On the glacier, I saw the familiar faces of friends. They wrapped me with a sleeping bag and injected me with dexamethasone. My friends and the pilots were smiling and laughing. I felt well and calm. Impossible is not forever, I told myself. Even if you think there's no chance to survive, it can be possible. Believe me.
Then there was a helicopter, a military hospital in Pakistan, a plane, a surgical institute in Russian, and home.
And a month later I married Julia, as I'd promised.
Author's note: Thank you, thank you, everyone who arranged the rescue operation, who took part in it, who worried, believed and prayed. My sympathies are with Sergey's near and dear ones. His body was not found, but we will remember him forever.
—Translated from the Russian by Karen Freund
[The mission that extracted Gukov from the mountain was flown by Pakistani pilots Major Qazi Muhammad Mazhar-ud-Din, Major Abid Rafique, Lieutenant Colonel Muhammad Anjum Rafique and Major Fakhar-e-Abbas. Glazunov's wife Nina Glazunov-Neverov shared several photos and stories about her husband's life with Alpinist, which can be found here. This story by Alexander Gukov first appeared in Alpinist 64, which is now available on newsstands and in our online store. The issue also features other stories about Latok I by Tom Livingstone and Jim Donini.—Ed.]
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Wes Lang and his quest to climb Japan's top 100 mountains
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Vanishingly Rare: Cory Richards, Esteban “Topo” Mena To Attempt New Everest Route
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Day hikers are the most vulnerable in survival situations
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Ice climbing helped her out of addiction; now, she’s pulling others up
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Jason Momoa Talks about why he started climbing and why he wants to pass it on to his children
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The Cholita Climbers of Bolivia Scale Mountains in Skirts
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Oldest Woman to Summit Mount Aconcagua
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Chinese Double Amputee Xia Wins Laureus Sporting Moment Of the Year
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Mummified body of Russian climber found after 31 years on Mount Elbrus
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374 world climbers including 12 Nepalis obtained climbing permits for Mt Everest
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Everest Climbing Permit: Expedition handling agency faces action for forgery
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Rock Stars: A Day of Climbing With 'Free Solo' Star Alex Honnold and Jared Leto
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Man Who Strangled Mountain Lion Makes First Public Appearance
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China Closes Everest Base Camp to Tourists Until Further Notice to Tackle Mountain of Rubbish
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Annapurna, Thank You for Being Alive
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Indian Woman Makes History With Her Climb Up Sacred Mountain
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‘Free Solo’ wins the Oscar for best documentary feature
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Mick Fowler and Vic Saunders revive Himalaya climb plans after cancer diagnosis
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David Lama and Hansjörg Auer Missing After Avalanche in Canada
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North Ridge of Latok I Finally Climbed After 40 Years
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Famous Climber Adam Ondra Does Ballet (video)
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Summit route opens from Nepal side, 8 Sherpas scale Mt Everest
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Fingerless South Korean scales Mt Annapurna
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Meet The First All-Black US Group Set To Climb Mt Kilimanjaro
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103-year-old becomes Junior Ranger at Grand Canyon National Park
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A 10-year-old mountaineer scaled Mt Elbrus, Europe’s highest peak
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Eight-time Everest Summiter Pemba Sherpa Goes Missing in the Karakoram
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Daredevil adventure-seeker abseils into active volcano with molten lava before doing a handstand on the edge
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Amputee US woman left for the Mt Everest region
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Peter, Horia eye record ascent on Mt Dhaulagiri
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Meet the world’s only professional sea stack climber
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Elite climbing couple is tackling Everest and El Capitan while keeping romance alive
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Belongings recovered, Pemba Sherpa remains untraced
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Queen of Everest
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A 12-Year-Old Girl Will Try to Climb Broad Peak
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Andrzej Bargiel’s K2 ski descent / The revolutionary use of drones in High Altitude Mountaineering?
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After Deadly Jam on Everest, Nepal Delays New Safety Rules
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China Just Closed the North Side of Mount Everest
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Dozens of people with COVID-19 were likely on Mount Everest this climbing season
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Sherpa siblings become first Nepali team to reach South Pole
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48 noted polar explorers declare support for National Geographic criticism of Portlander Colin O’Brady
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Nepal Closes All Mountains, Including Everest
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Pakistan's Ali Sadpara: The climber who never came back from K2
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Record-breaking Sherpa says mountain goddess warned him from 26th Everest ascent
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As Himalayas Warm, Nepal’s Climate Migrants Struggle to Survive
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Nepali Sherpas wait, grow potatoes as Himalayas remain closed due to coronavirus
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Mount Fuji to be closed during this summer climbing season
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Watch 2 Athletes Climb K2 Without Supplemental Oxygen
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Open, Opening or Closed: Adventure Destinations in the Summer of COVID
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Mystery on Everest: did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit in 1924?
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Crieff boy, 11, youngest to climb the Matterhorn
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Great Survival Stories
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Govt refuses Everest clean-up amid pandemic calm
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Himalayas seen for first time in decades from 125 miles away after pollution drop
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Search and Rescue Groups Urge People to Stop Climbing Cabinetry During Pandemic
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2020 season climbing permits for Denali and Mount Foraker suspended
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Alleged Everest Faker Set to Receive The Highest Indian Adventure Sports Honor
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British climber didn’t know world was on lockdown until getting to Everest base camp
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Left out to freeze on K2 and forgotten
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First Summit of 2020 in Nepal, Death and Rescue in Pakistan
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Everest: Ice Fall Doctors Begin Work as Winter Officially Ends in Nepal
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Annapurna Summit Push Begins
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One Man’s Attempt to Solve a Mystery at the Top of Mount Everest
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Hundreds of trekkers stranded on Nepal's mountain trails after coronavirus lockdown
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Nepal records season's first summit of 8000-metre peak as climbers scale Mt Annapurna
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Woman climber Tsang Yin Hung sets world record for fastest Everest climb
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Will corona pandemic also stop Karakoram climbing season?
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Everest: The Final, Massive Summit Push Begins
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In Nepal, Sherpas are losing vital tourism income, but 'stopping the virus is more important than our jobs'
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Jared Leto recalls 'nearly' dying while rock climbing
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‘Green Boots’: The Most Famous Body on Mt Everest
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Mountaineering’s Drug Problem
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Nanga Parbat: New Avalanche on Mummery Spur; Weather Hampers Rescue Effort
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Avalanche Strands 4 Italians, 3 Local Climbers in Pakistan
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Swiss Climbers Slammed for Landing Plane Near Top of Mont Blanc
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95 Years Ago, Everest Was Just as Deadly but Much Less Crowded
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Everest 2019: New Route Attempt
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Search called off for missing Himalayan climbers
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Bodies of Seven Missing Climbers Recovered From the Himalayas
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Thousands raised for missing climbers
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Tom Ballard and Daniel Nardi Missing on Nanga Parbat; Rescue Operation Underway
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Updated: K2 and Nanga Parbat Action is On!
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K2 Summit Push Aborted
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Bielecki and Berg Call Off Annapurna
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Malaysian climber missing on Mt Annapurna
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Three killed, three injured in Lukla crash
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Under Cyclone Fani Impact, 20 Tents Blown Off At Everest Camp
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Peruvian Climber Dies on Nepal's Mt Makalu
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Two Dead on Kangchenjunga
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Argentine Authorities Find Body Believed to be Spanish Climber Missing for 30 Years
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Irish Professor Seamus Lawless Missing Near Balcony Area on Mt Everest
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Louis Vuitton Sells $1,590 Chalk Bag
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Melting Mount Everest glaciers reveal dead climbers' bodies: report
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4 Climbers Stranded on Treacherous Mount Rainier Route
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Sixty Years Later, Russia Is Still Trying to Figure Out What Killed These Hikers
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Three Indian Climbers Make Fake Everest Summit Claim?
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Top mountain climber Andrew Vine missing for two days after avalanche
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Behind the scenes of the rescue of the last solo climber on Mount Logan
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Brad Gobright: Free solo climber falls to his death
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American Climber Dies from HAPE on Mt Ama Dablam
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Mount Everest summit attempt in winter to be first in 27 years if successful
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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The Volcanic Seven Summits
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Mount Everest mystery solved? Mallory’s oxygen tank ‘broken’ before summit climb
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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Sister of tragic Scots climber makes heartbreaking pilgrimage to Himalayan peak where he died
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Everest: Wind Forces Delay
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Climber Emily Harrington rescued by ‘Free Solo’ star Alex Honnold after fall
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Mountaineers find Soviet-era climber’s belongings at Mount Elbrus
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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'Too dangerous': Calls for Switzerland’s Matterhorn to be closed to climbers
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Climber Rescued After Breaking Leg in Avalanche on Mount Snowdon
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Dodging Avalanches, Simone Moro Abandons Manaslu
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Rock climbers killed in suspected cliff fall in Flinders Ranges
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Everest climbers to face stricter rules after deadly season
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Romanian elite climber killed in Fagaras Mountains
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Running, at Age 72, from England to Nepal
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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Bodies of three mountain climbers recovered after last week's Banff avalanche
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Slovenian who skied down Everest dies cutting wood
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