Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
5 years ago
Reinhold Messner - Standing on the Shoulders of Giants
Ash Routen discusses with Reinhold Messner, arguably the greatest high altitude climber of all time, success versus failure, the difference between suffering and fun, and the powerful sense of history that has underpinned his mountaineering philosophy.
As I dial the number, I draw a sharp intake of breath. I'm hoping to make sense, and I'm keen to make the best of this opportunity. I doubt it will come again. A moment later I'm chatting with Reinhold Messner - the first to climb all of the world's 14 highest peaks, and the first to stand atop Everest without Oxygen. Don't forget the crossing of Antarctica, the Gobi desert, and the walk across Tibet too. Remarkable. But that's not what he tells me "I don't think that I am a special man and I don't think I'm the most adapted person for doing high-altitude or great adventures".
Mountaineer Legend Reinhold Messner on 25 October 1993 in Nepal | usage worldwide. PHOTO: Udo Bernhart
I set up this call with Messner to get a sense of his philosophy on adventure and expeditions, and how he prepared for them. It's part of a longer-term project where I'm talking to people who have excelled across Polar, Ocean, Desert, and Mountain environments.
As we begin Messner chirps "I think the mental approach is more important than the physical approach, especially for these extreme adventures". So I press a little more on the topic of mental preparation before an expedition.
"All of us are identifying more and more with our challenges, so we look at the pictures, we study the history, we go into the monsoon situation, maybe there is a monsoon in the period and we are there. If I am not able, in advance, to imagine everything that can happen, where I'm going and where the difficulties are I'm not well prepared for an expedition. It's clear that, physically, you can run up mountains, like Peter Habeler and I did, we are running uphill, very steep mountains at home for training the muscles and, also, naturally, the heart and the lungs, and so on. But, the identification with what we tried to do, with what our plan was, was much more important."
Photo: Reinhold Messner Collection
Like many successful alpinists it's clear that Messner approached his climbs with an eye for detail and planning, but he seemed to allude to going much further, reaching back into the history books to find clues from the past.
"All my dreams, all the expeditions I did, all the climbs I did, and everything else, they were built on everything that happened before. Before crossing Antarctica, I studied all Shackleton's trips, but also Amundsen, Scott and so on, so I had a very strong possibility to be there before going there."
Understanding and 'living' the expeditions of the past as preparation is one thing, but I wondered how Messner managed to put his plans into action in extreme and uncontrollable environments. Many of his high altitude contemporaries died in their prime. Did he develop specific mental skills?
"I don't think that I am a special man and I don't think I'm the most adapted person for doing high-altitude or great adventures. But I was really lucky. I only understood it much later, that between my fifth and fifteenth year of life I did many middle-class, easy climbs, so an instinct came up, an instinct with nature and with wilderness. I was not the best climber, but I was very strong in feeling where I should go, where the route was, what is the weight of the wind, where are the loose rocks and where are the good rocks? All these instincts are in my being without a concrete learning. I got it also in the decades later when I did different activities, like high-altitude climbing and desert crossings."
East Rombuk Glacier, Everest north side, 1980
© Reinhold Messner Collection
This heightened awareness, whether learned or innate, was to serve Messner well throughout his climbing career.
"I think that it was also this instinct which gave me the signs to say, "Now it's time to go back, to quit. It's too dangerous, too difficult, maybe something is not perfectly organised in our own plan or own expedition." The decision to go further or to go back came quite quickly in my expeditions, not calculating, not thinking, "This is going well, this is going wrong," so in the end, I go further, or I go back. It was instinctive."
And of course with an instinct to preserve one's safety comes the inevitable requirement to face up to aborted or failed expeditions, something which Messner seems not shy away from.
"At least in one-third of my plans I failed, I have failed many times. People always say I had so many successes, but I had a lot of failures. I failed on the North Pole when I tried to cross it, from Siberia to Canada. I failed 13 times on the 8000 metre peaks. I have failed many times. I am the mountaineer or the adventurer with the most failures in his life."
Everest summit, solo, 1980
© Reinhold Messner Collection
Whilst failure is an inevitable and painful part of performance for any elite athlete, what of that other uncomfortable side to the games climbers play – physical suffering? Over the past twelve months I've talked to Himalayan first ascentionists, polar record breakers, ultra marathoners and desert pioneers. A common theme that always seems to crop up is suffering. For some folks it's part of the attraction to their sport, and part of an identity. For others like Messner, it seems physical suffering is an unfortunate byproduct to be endured.
"I was not driven by pains, but pains are part of the game, especially if you're going to high altitude. The lungs are hurting, the head is pained, the muscles are in pain... I am not searching for it but starting I just know it's happening. I had my experiences in the Dolomites and in the Alps, and afterwards in the Andes, and the higher I went the more I knew about the pain. It is difficult to support, but if I cannot support it I cannot do these things. So, I learnt, slowly, to cope with it and to accept it, but I did not go to high places to have these pains. I was willing to go to high places and I had to accept the fact that it's painful."
"If the young people are saying this is all fun I don't believe it. It's only a word they use because everybody uses this word today and everything has to be fun. It's not fun putting your hand in a crack and making a fist to pull you up. It's not fun in forty-below-zero, near Everest's summit without an oxygen mask and to have this cold air directly in your lungs. It's not fun having snow up to your knees, and going on your knees and elbows up a steep mountain."
Nanga Parbat solo, 1978
© Reinhold Messner Collection
I began to wonder if this relationship with pain changed over time for Messner. Had his ability to suffer diminished?
"High-class mountaineering is a game of pain, and the older I got the less and less I was able to support these pains. In the young years I lost my power for rock climbing. In my young years I lost my agility for rock climbing, because I lost my toes, so I didn't especially do rock climbing and training for it. For a long time, I had the good physical ability to go far for big results, with only a little bit of food. I could withstand the cold, I could endure everything... It's not nice in Antarctica, going in a tent after a whole day of hiking and pulling a sledge, eating half-cold food, but anyway..."
"As I got older, the last thing I lost was my the ability to support pain, like in middle-old age. At 45 I was able to support more of the pain, better than at 20. But now I prefer to go to the bathroom like a man and not an animal."
If high altitude mountaineering involves physical struggle and high risk, why bother? Dare I ask the most cliché of questions – why? Thankfully I'm spared the need. Messner opens up with a riff on his philosophy for the mountains and their magnetism.
"I see, in my activity, a cultural expression or a cultural issue, and not a sporting issue. So, a history and a philosophy of Mummery, Mallory, Shipton... I speak about a few British adventurers, they give me the base to invent my challenges. I based my whole thing on what happened before, on their philosophy... My style in the mountains is following a certain tradition, and I think that tradition and mountaineering is nothing else, there are no rules, there is no right and wrong, it is only based on philosophy and history. Some of the history and some of the philosophy is what has given us the right direction for doing traditional alpinism, or traditional adventures."
"You know, the whole thing now is breaking away because 90% of the climbers go into the climbing hall and they do sport, this has nothing to do with alpinism. It's a great sport, they do competitions, it will be in the Olympics games, this climbing on the artificial holds and plastic holds."
"What is happening on Everest is pure tourism. The mountain is prepared for tourists and they pay a lot of money for using the infrastructure, made by the Sherpas, to be brought to the summit. This is also okay, tourism is okay, we alpine people live because there is a lot of tourism, and the Sherpas now, and the Sherpa families, they can make a living from this kind of tourism too."
In the Firmian Messner Mountain Museum
© Georg Tappeiner
This was not entirely unexpected, as Messner's views on the purity of 'traditional adventure' have been described in many of his works such as the 1971 Mountain Magazine manifesto on alpinism The Murder of the Impossible.
Further, his keen appreciation of mountaineering and adventure history is not surprising given that he has created and funded a series of six mountain museums across northern Italy. This appreciation is something that Messner later goes on to tell me was a driving factor for all of his expeditions.
"But, if somebody likes to do some traditional activity they are out of these pistes, which they build on the 8,000 metre peaks, Mont Blanc, on Aconcagua, and so on… If you are out of it you have to base your activities on something, maybe on feeling you are the greatest, I never had this feeling, and I built it up on the ideas that were born long before me, on the philosophy, which is a sombre philosophy, which people evolved for approaching the mountains through the 17th and during the 18th century, and so on, and afterwards the whole history. I am still enthusiastic now about the whole mountaineering and adventure history."
Now well into his Seventh decade, Messner must make do with living vicariously through adventures of the past.
"I bought a book about Frank Wild, who was the right hand of Shackleton in the dramatic endurance expedition in Antarctica. What I think about this, is that for me it's quite like going on this expedition; I sit at home but in my mental pictures I am in Antarctica, speaking with Frank Wild and knowing him. I can know him because, for me, this history, the old stories, are at least as important as doing it by myself."
From a few minutes of conversation, I had learned a great deal about Messner's preparation, mental capacity, mountain instinct, ability to suffer, and reverence for the early pioneers. But it was this latter point that he spoke about with the most passion. The narratives created by those that have gone before are what drew this man towards the extreme regions of our planet to undertake serious and exploratory adventure - something that Messner conveyed a number of times.
Leo Dickinson, the director of Everest Unmasked, a documentary about the first oxygenless ascent of Everest once quipped "Messner is the most driven human being I've ever seen on the planet". Perhaps the essence of what drove Reinhold Messner to great heights and extreme latitudes was at least in part a deep appreciation for the historical context of adventure.
"All my activities, especially things I do with new routes and new styles in the high mountains, they are based on history. So, I have in me the whole narrative and out of the narrative of what happened in the centuries before my active time came my new plans, the ambitions, and the challenges that I tried to fulfil."
Messner's detractors often accuse him of unnecessary hubris, but his is a philosophy I can identify with. To stand on the Shoulders of Giants.
This article first appeared on http://www.ukclimbing.com.The original can be read here.
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Open, Opening or Closed: Adventure Destinations in the Summer of COVID
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Winter 8,000’ers: Everybody in Base Camp
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A 12-Year-Old Girl Will Try to Climb Broad Peak
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Sherpa siblings become first Nepali team to reach South Pole
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Watch 2 Athletes Climb K2 Without Supplemental Oxygen
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China Just Closed the North Side of Mount Everest
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Nepali Sherpas wait, grow potatoes as Himalayas remain closed due to coronavirus
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Mount Fuji to be closed during this summer climbing season
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Nepal Closes All Mountains, Including Everest
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Alleged Everest Faker Set to Receive The Highest Indian Adventure Sports Honor
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2020 season climbing permits for Denali and Mount Foraker suspended
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Mystery on Everest: did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit in 1924?
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One Man’s Attempt to Solve a Mystery at the Top of Mount Everest
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British climber didn’t know world was on lockdown until getting to Everest base camp
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Search and Rescue Groups Urge People to Stop Climbing Cabinetry During Pandemic
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As Himalayas Warm, Nepal’s Climate Migrants Struggle to Survive
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Video: retreating Mer de Glace, Mont Blanc’s largest glacier
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Left out to freeze on K2 and forgotten
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Himalayas seen for first time in decades from 125 miles away after pollution drop
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First Summit of 2020 in Nepal, Death and Rescue in Pakistan
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Govt refuses Everest clean-up amid pandemic calm
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Pakistan's Ali Sadpara: The climber who never came back from K2
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Everest: Ice Fall Doctors Begin Work as Winter Officially Ends in Nepal
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Annapurna Summit Push Begins
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Hundreds of trekkers stranded on Nepal's mountain trails after coronavirus lockdown
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48 noted polar explorers declare support for National Geographic criticism of Portlander Colin O’Brady
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Great Survival Stories
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Remembering Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley
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Crieff boy, 11, youngest to climb the Matterhorn
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Everest: A new chapter in the search for British climber Sandy Irvine
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Nepal records season's first summit of 8000-metre peak as climbers scale Mt Annapurna
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Woman climber Tsang Yin Hung sets world record for fastest Everest climb
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Will corona pandemic also stop Karakoram climbing season?
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Everest: The Final, Massive Summit Push Begins
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In Nepal, Sherpas are losing vital tourism income, but 'stopping the virus is more important than our jobs'
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Record-breaking Sherpa says mountain goddess warned him from 26th Everest ascent
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Ed Jackson: The quadriplegic climber scaling Everest in his parents’ house
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Jared Leto recalls 'nearly' dying while rock climbing
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‘Green Boots’: The Most Famous Body on Mt Everest
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Mountaineering’s Drug Problem
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Nanga Parbat: New Avalanche on Mummery Spur; Weather Hampers Rescue Effort
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Everest 2019: New Route Attempt
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Avalanche Strands 4 Italians, 3 Local Climbers in Pakistan
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Swiss Climbers Slammed for Landing Plane Near Top of Mont Blanc
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95 Years Ago, Everest Was Just as Deadly but Much Less Crowded
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Search called off for missing Himalayan climbers
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Bodies of Seven Missing Climbers Recovered From the Himalayas
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Thousands raised for missing climbers
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Breaking: Wrecked Tent and Avalanche Debris Spotted on Nanga Parbat
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Bodies of Nardi and Ballard found on Pakistan's "Killer Mountain"
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Tom Ballard and Daniel Nardi Missing on Nanga Parbat; Rescue Operation Underway
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Updated: K2 and Nanga Parbat Action is On!
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Freesoloist Austin Howell Dies in Fall
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Breaking: Weather Forecast Changes for the Worse on K2
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Experienced Scots Climber Named Among Those Killed in Avalanche in the Himalayas
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Karakorum: Great Weather, Early Successes
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Hurricane Heading for Winter K2
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Winter K2 Wins Again: It’s Over for Pivtsov’s Team
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Scientists Find Warm Ice in World’s Highest Glacier
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K2 Summit Push Aborted
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Bielecki and Berg Call Off Annapurna
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Malaysian climber missing on Mt Annapurna
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Three killed, three injured in Lukla crash
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Malaysian Climber, Who Was Rescued Alive from Mt Annapurna, Dies in Singapore
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Under Cyclone Fani Impact, 20 Tents Blown Off At Everest Camp
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Peruvian Climber Dies on Nepal's Mt Makalu
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Two Dead on Kangchenjunga
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Argentine Authorities Find Body Believed to be Spanish Climber Missing for 30 Years
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Irish Professor Seamus Lawless Missing Near Balcony Area on Mt Everest
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Louis Vuitton Sells $1,590 Chalk Bag
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Melting Mount Everest glaciers reveal dead climbers' bodies: report
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Nanda Devi: Helicopters Join Search For Eight Missing Climbers
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Gone but Not Forgotten: Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard
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Bodies of 5 Missing Mountaineers Spotted Near Avalanche-hit Nanda Devi Peak
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Sixty Years Later, Russia Is Still Trying to Figure Out What Killed These Hikers
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4 Climbers Stranded on Treacherous Mount Rainier Route
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Three Indian Climbers Make Fake Everest Summit Claim?
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On K2, 120 Climbers Make Their Move
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Tributes to 'Incredible Mountaineer' Who Died During Ben Hope Climb
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Top mountain climber Andrew Vine missing for two days after avalanche
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Behind the scenes of the rescue of the last solo climber on Mount Logan
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Brad Gobright: Free solo climber falls to his death
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American Climber Dies from HAPE on Mt Ama Dablam
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Mount Everest summit attempt in winter to be first in 27 years if successful
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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Breaking: Simone Moro Expedition Ends in Near-Fatal Crevasse Fall
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The Volcanic Seven Summits
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Mount Everest mystery solved? Mallory’s oxygen tank ‘broken’ before summit climb
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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Sister of tragic Scots climber makes heartbreaking pilgrimage to Himalayan peak where he died
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Everest: Wind Forces Delay
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Climber Emily Harrington rescued by ‘Free Solo’ star Alex Honnold after fall
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Season’s First Casualty on Manaslu
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Mountaineers find Soviet-era climber’s belongings at Mount Elbrus
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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Climber Rescued After Breaking Leg in Avalanche on Mount Snowdon
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'Too dangerous': Calls for Switzerland’s Matterhorn to be closed to climbers
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Dodging Avalanches, Simone Moro Abandons Manaslu
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Rock climbers killed in suspected cliff fall in Flinders Ranges
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Everest climbers to face stricter rules after deadly season
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Romanian elite climber killed in Fagaras Mountains
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Running, at Age 72, from England to Nepal
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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Bodies of three mountain climbers recovered after last week's Banff avalanche
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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Winter K2 Preview: Between Mountain Excellence and Commercialization
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Slovenian who skied down Everest dies cutting wood
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Carlos Soria leaves for Dhaulagiri; Sanu Sherpa to complete all 14 peaks
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The Climbers Who Survived a Week Stuck on Mount Rainier
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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