Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
5 years ago
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher free climb The Nose on El Capitan
On El Capitan in Yosemite Austria’s Barbara Zangerl and South Tyrol’s Jacopo Larcher have made a free ascent of The Nose, the most famous big wall in the world.
A few days after Belgian climber Sébastien Berthe, Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have now also made a free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan. The two completed their free ascent of the most famous big wall in the world after launching upwards six days ago, having climbed the route in their usual style, swinging leads on the easy pitches and then both leading on all the harder pitches.
Zangerl and Larcher made a first attempt in autumn 2018, but at the time the crux pitches were wet. After a brief period rappelling from the top to check out the crux pitches, this autumn everything went smoothly. The start went well and despite being slowed down slightly by other parties, they both managed to free the first crux, The Great Roof. After resting for a day they then tackled the hardest pitch of all, the complicated and beautiful Changing Corners, before topping out a few hours later.
In some respects their ascent might be considered a mere formality as they are now some of the most expert big wallers on El Capitan: together they free climbed El Niño in 2015, Zodiac in 2016 and Magic Mushroom in 2017. Zangerl followed this up with her free ascent of the Pre-Muir wallin June this year and she is now quite possibly the woman who has climbed most routes free on El Capitan.
That being said, climbing this monumental route established in 1958 by Warren Harding, Wayne Merry and George Whitmore after 47 days and freed by Lynn Hill in 1993 is never a foregone conclusion and Larcher's words underline the importance of their repeat: "It's such an historical route, that we both had always wanted to free climb. It’s such a good feeling when dreams come true ... and together is even better"
THE NOSE - a brief history of free ascents
Although The Nose is the most popular route in El Capitan, paradoxically, free ascents are extremely rare. After Lynn Hill made her ground-breaking first free ascent of The Nose over a four-day period in mid-September in 1993, in September 1994 she returned to make her era-defining sub 24-hour free ascent with Steve Sutton. Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden swung leads and free climbed The Nose in 2005, and Caldwell climbed the route free in just 11 hours a fortnight later during his Nose + Freerider 24-hour double. In November 2014 Dutchman Jorg Verhoeven climbed The Nose free in three days, while Keita Kurakami required five days for his rope solo free ascent and 15-year-old Connor Herson required three with his father Jim Herson in 2018. Sébastien Berthe checked in with his 8-day ascent in autumn 2019, followed a few days later by Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher. For the record, in 1998 America’s Scott Burke free climbed all the route except for the crux pitch, The Great Roof, which he was forced to climb on toprope as it was wet at the time. It is worth noting that until now, no one has climbed The Nose ground-up free in a single push, ie. without ever trying the pitches beforehand and climbing the entire route free without returning to the ground. This single-push ground-up free ascent must be regarded as the new frontier.
Link: FB Jacopo Larcher, jacopo-larcher.com, FB Barbara Zangerl, barbara-zangerl.at, La Sportiva, The North Face, Black Diamond
This article first appeared on http://www.planetmountain.com. The original can be read here.
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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Winter K2 Preview: Between Mountain Excellence and Commercialization
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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K2 Summit Push Aborted
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On K2, 120 Climbers Make Their Move
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Karakorum: Great Weather, Early Successes
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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American Climber Dies from HAPE on Mt Ama Dablam
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Search called off for missing Himalayan climbers
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China Just Closed the North Side of Mount Everest
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Nanda Devi: Helicopters Join Search For Eight Missing Climbers
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Gone but Not Forgotten: Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard
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Everest: Wind Forces Delay
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'Too dangerous': Calls for Switzerland’s Matterhorn to be closed to climbers
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Melting Mount Everest glaciers reveal dead climbers' bodies: report
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Bodies of 5 Missing Mountaineers Spotted Near Avalanche-hit Nanda Devi Peak
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Top mountain climber Andrew Vine missing for two days after avalanche
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Mountaineering’s Drug Problem
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Jared Leto recalls 'nearly' dying while rock climbing
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After Deadly Jam on Everest, Nepal Delays New Safety Rules
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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95 Years Ago, Everest Was Just as Deadly but Much Less Crowded
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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Swiss Climbers Slammed for Landing Plane Near Top of Mont Blanc
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Avalanche Strands 4 Italians, 3 Local Climbers in Pakistan
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Everest 2019: New Route Attempt
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Winter K2 Wins Again: It’s Over for Pivtsov’s Team
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Mount Everest summit attempt in winter to be first in 27 years if successful
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Scientists Find Warm Ice in World’s Highest Glacier
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Louis Vuitton Sells $1,590 Chalk Bag
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Sixty Years Later, Russia Is Still Trying to Figure Out What Killed These Hikers
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Breaking: Simone Moro Expedition Ends in Near-Fatal Crevasse Fall
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The Volcanic Seven Summits
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Bodies of Nardi and Ballard found on Pakistan's "Killer Mountain"
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Mount Everest mystery solved? Mallory’s oxygen tank ‘broken’ before summit climb
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Three Indian Climbers Make Fake Everest Summit Claim?
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Behind the scenes of the rescue of the last solo climber on Mount Logan
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4 Climbers Stranded on Treacherous Mount Rainier Route
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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