Daily Mountain
47 years, Australia
5 years ago
Overcrowded and More Dangerous, Mont Blanc Faces a Crisis
This article first appeared on http://www.nytimes.com. The original can be read here.
On Western Europe’s highest mountain, the number of inexperienced climbers is growing and climate change is taking a toll. Are new safety measures enough?
Every summer at least 20,000 people attempt the 15,776-foot summit of Mont Blanc. The majority spend a night in the Goûter Refuge on the French side. Credit: Nicolas Blandin for The New York Times
The Goûter Refuge — a futuristic structure that clings to a cliff at 12,516 feet — is, for many people, the final stop en route to the top of Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in Western Europe, straddling the border between France and Italy.
Every summer at least 20,000 people attempt the 15,776-foot summit. The majority spend a night in the Goûter Refuge, on the French side, which welcomes climbers from late May through September. Local officials and guides say the number is growing, and that today’s climbers are less experienced, even as warmer temperatures are increasing the risk of rockfall and transforming once-snowy ridges into treacherous sheets of ice. A small number of climbers also appear to be unwilling to respect the rules — or even pay for their accommodation.
“People would say, ‘You have to let us stay for free. We don’t have to pay because you’re a mountain hut,’” said Antoine Rattin, 46, a guide and the manager of Goûter Refuge, recalling a few encounters last summer.
In the high, wild landscape around the Refuge, turning people out for the night could mean death, so Mr. Rattin had no choice but to abide their presence — even if that meant accepting their refusal to pay the €65.80 (about $74) fee for a bed, and exceeding the hut’s official capacity of 120 people.
Mr. Rattin’s challenges are emblematic of the mountain’s more fundamental problem, a challenge that is also afflicting Mount Everest: overcrowding, which is exacerbating the dangers posed by climate change and inexperienced climbers. This summer, local authorities are tackling these issues, and their efforts are leading to some changes for visitors.
Nicolas Blandin for The New York Times
The roof of Western Europe
For more than 200 years, Mont Blanc has been luring climbers. The first to reach the mountain’s white, windblown summit were Jacques Balmat, a hunter and crystal collector, and Gabriel-Michel Paccard, a doctor and botanist. The two men, both locals, made it to the top early on the evening of Aug. 8, 1786, a moment that manyhave cited as the birth of modern mountaineering.
Over the next few decades, a small but growing number of mountaineers and explorer-scientists followed in their footsteps. As Mont Blanc grew in fame, so too did the valley below. Hotels sprang up in Chamonix, the village at the mountain’s base, and a parade of famous visitors — Alexandre Dumas, Napoleon III, Victor Hugo, Goethe — raised the area’s profile even further. By the end of the 19th century, tourism was driving the economy.
Today, the narrow Chamonix valley attracts 4.3 million visitors a year. People come in winter to ski and snowshoe, in summer to rock climb, hike and mountain bike, or at any time of year just to wander through town and admire the views of the jagged, ice-crusted peaks. But for many visitors, getting to the top of Mont Blanc is the most powerful draw.
“Clients tend to be obsessed with this mountain, and every experienced mountaineer wants to climb it as well,” said Blaise Agresti, an independent mountain guide and the former head of the PGHM of Chamonix, the security and rescue service that responds to emergencies on Mont Blanc and the surrounding peaks. “Today, many people who come to the mountain go up, come back down and then never go back for the rest of their lives,” he said. “We’ve been marketing Mont Blanc for two centuries. We’ve sold it as this beautiful, symbolic dream. So today, this is the situation we inherit.”
Routes and risks
But the dream comes with its own set of dangers. More than half a dozen routes lead to Mont Blanc’s summit, but just two — the Three Mountains Route, which starts from Chamonix, and the Normal Route, which starts from the neighboring community of Saint-Gervais — are accessible to climbers with only a moderate amount of experience. While the majority return from the summit unscathed, both itineraries entail risk.
The Normal Route — chosen by about three quarters of the climbers aiming for the summit — goes across the Grand Couloir, a steep, narrow gully that acts as a sort of bowling alley for falling rocks. Near the top, the path leads onto a narrow ridge of snow and ice, about 100 yards long and just a couple of feet wide, that’s flanked by steep drops. If you stumble there, you can fall to your death.
Alternatively, the Three Mountains Route, a more technical itinerary that accounts for most of the remaining quarter of climbers, goes below a series of towering ice cliffs that occasionally — and very unpredictably — slough off enormous quantities of snow and ice onto the path below. Both routes are threatened with avalanches, and both cross glaciers laced with crevasses: yawning gaps in the ice that can swallow climbers whole.
“I did it once but I would never, ever do it again,” said Rachel McKee, 41, an Irishwoman living in France who climbed Mont Blanc six years ago. She was completely exhausted by the climb, despite her thorough training, and she had to sprint across the Grand Couloir as rocks fell around her. “It was a fantastic experience, but you’re playing with death,” she said.
An analysis of accidents along the lower portion of the Normal Route found that, between 1990 and 2017, 102 people had died between the Tête Rousse Hut and the Goûter Hut, a stretch that takes most people about three hours to hike. The biggest causes of death were falls, being hit by a falling rock, and “stranding” — getting lost or caught in bad weather. Of the 387 accident victims who needed emergency services, 84 percent were amateurs unaccompanied by a professional guide.
“If you add up the accidents on the two itineraries, you find that half of all mountaineering accidents in France happen on Mont Blanc,” Mr. Agresti wrote in a book on mountain rescue. More than half of those accidents occur on the climb to the Goûter Hut, a stretch of trail that Mr. Agresti called “one of the black spots in the Alps.”
To reduce their risk, guides say, climbers need specific skills: In addition to being fit enough to endure hours of tough hiking at high altitudes, Mont Blanc aspirants should also be confident walking in crampons. (A number of fatal falls have resulted from people tripping while wearing their just-purchased crampons.) They should also know how to walk roped together with other climbers; how to get out of a crevasse; how to interpret a mountain weather forecast; and how to gauge snow and rock conditions.
Nicolas Blandin for The New York Times
Anyone short on these skills should hire a professional guide; the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix, the official association of Chamonix’s professional mountain guides, is a good place to start. Visitors will pay between €900 and €1,500 for a guided trip for two people to the summit, in addition to the cost of gear, hut accommodation and a ride in the train or cable car to the start of the route.
Crumbling mountains
As warmer temperatures take their toll on the fragile alpine environment, some of the dangers are growing more serious. The average temperature in Chamonix rose by more than 3.6 degrees Fahrenheit over the course of the 20th century (more than double the global rate), said Ludovic Ravanel, a geomorphologist with France’s National Center for Scientific Research and a specialist in the evolution of alpine environments.
“Everybody’s talking about how the glaciers are retreating, but other things are happening that are less well known,” Mr. Ravanel said after a day spent taking ice samples high in the Mont Blanc massif. The last few decades have seen an “explosion” in the number of rocky landslides in the peaks around Mont Blanc, he explained, as warmer temperatures have begun to melt the permafrost that has long cemented the mountains together.
The warming of the mountains has affected — and in some cases obliterated — nearly all of the most popular mountaineering routes in the Mont Blanc area, said Mr. Ravanel, who is also a qualified high mountain guide. The Three Mountains Route has become steeper and icier, while rockfall in the Grand Couloir on the Normal Route is becoming more frequent and voluminous, especially in the afternoon. The Petzl Foundation once proposed building a small tunnel to protect people crossing the gully, but the suggestion was opposed by many guides and local authorities. This is a wild landscape, not an amusement park, opponents said. Signs have been erected along the route to warn people of the risk, but many still choose to cross the gully at the most dangerous time of day.
“What we’re seeing is that the peak time for rockfall is also the peak time for people crossing the couloir,” Mr. Ravanel said. “We have these two factors that overlap. We have to try to separate them.”
New controls
But it’s not always easy to convince climbers, many of them go-it-alone amateurs with little knowledge of the routes, on how to protect themselves.
“Today, we have passed from a generation of mountaineers to a generation of tourists who come for one shot, just to take a selfie on the top of Mont Blanc,” said Jean-Marc Peillex, the mayor of Saint-Gervais.
For more than a decade, Mr. Peillex has been arguing for stricter controls. And following the summer of 2018 — when French media published a string of stories describing overcrowding, litter, fist fights and other bad behavior on Mont Blanc — he has achieved his goal.
Starting with the 2019 climbing season, which opened on May 24, anyone hiking the Normal Route must carry identification and proof of a reservation in one of the huts. There has also been a clamp down on free camping. Scores of tents used to cluster outside the Goûter Refuge during the summer, and Mr. Peillex said that people would leave behind trash and feces. But no longer: climbers caught setting up their own tents could now face a fine of €300,000 (about $338,000) and two years in prison.
Yet another restriction was recently introduced after a hot day in June, when about 150 paraglider pilots rode powerful thermal winds to the top of Mont Blanc. A prohibition on landing on the summit was announced the following day.
The new controls have stopped short, however, of requiring a climbing permit or otherwise attempting to impose a limit on the number of people on Mont Blanc. Such an approach would violate the principle, firmly held in France, that the high mountains are a place of liberty that should not be subjected to draconian controls.
But the new measures, which were announced in April by the prefecture of Haute Savoie, are meant to restore respect for the mountain, while also ensuring a safe and smooth flow of climbers. The rules are enforced by PGHM officers and security officials from Saint-Gervais, who patrol the Normal Route around the clock. Still, some have questioned just how much of an impact the new controls will have.
David Ravanel, the president of the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix, said he hoped the measures would improve people’s experience. “But I don’t think they will decrease the risk of accidents, because they still won’t prevent complete amateurs from climbing the mountain. That’s the biggest challenge we have today.”
Mr. Peillex acknowledged that the new measures alone are not enough; a shift in the public’s attitude is needed, he said. So Mr. Peillex has launched a public information campaign, in the hopes of raising awareness among climbers before they even arrive.
“The point is to make people understand that climbing Mont Blanc isn’t like going out to the movies,” Mr. Peillex said at the news conference in which the new measures were announced.
The 2019 climbing season is well underway and Mr. Rattin is back at his perch at the Goûter Refuge. “Things are better. We’ve managed to find some peace,” he said by phone, noting that so far no one had arrived without a reservation, and that the enforcement officers seemed to be effective. “So far, so good,” he said, “but the season isn’t over yet.”
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Record-breaking Sherpa says mountain goddess warned him from 26th Everest ascent
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Dozens of people with COVID-19 were likely on Mount Everest this climbing season
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Crieff boy, 11, youngest to climb the Matterhorn
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A 12-Year-Old Girl Will Try to Climb Broad Peak
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Hundreds of trekkers stranded on Nepal's mountain trails after coronavirus lockdown
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Bodies of three mountain climbers recovered after last week's Banff avalanche
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Two Dead on Kangchenjunga
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Video: retreating Mer de Glace, Mont Blanc’s largest glacier
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Winter 8,000’ers: Everybody in Base Camp
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Sherpa siblings become first Nepali team to reach South Pole
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Everest: The Final, Massive Summit Push Begins
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Will corona pandemic also stop Karakoram climbing season?
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In Nepal, Sherpas are losing vital tourism income, but 'stopping the virus is more important than our jobs'
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2020 season climbing permits for Denali and Mount Foraker suspended
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Nepali Sherpas wait, grow potatoes as Himalayas remain closed due to coronavirus
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48 noted polar explorers declare support for National Geographic criticism of Portlander Colin O’Brady
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Three killed, three injured in Lukla crash
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Argentine Authorities Find Body Believed to be Spanish Climber Missing for 30 Years
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Bielecki and Berg Call Off Annapurna
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Andrzej Bargiel’s K2 ski descent / The revolutionary use of drones in High Altitude Mountaineering?
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Everest: A new chapter in the search for British climber Sandy Irvine
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Left out to freeze on K2 and forgotten
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Mount Fuji to be closed during this summer climbing season
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Govt refuses Everest clean-up amid pandemic calm
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Under Cyclone Fani Impact, 20 Tents Blown Off At Everest Camp
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Everest: Ice Fall Doctors Begin Work as Winter Officially Ends in Nepal
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Annapurna Summit Push Begins
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Ed Jackson: The quadriplegic climber scaling Everest in his parents’ house
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Pakistan's Ali Sadpara: The climber who never came back from K2
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Remembering Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley
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Great Survival Stories
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Peruvian Climber Dies on Nepal's Mt Makalu
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One Man’s Attempt to Solve a Mystery at the Top of Mount Everest
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Irish Professor Seamus Lawless Missing Near Balcony Area on Mt Everest
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British climber didn’t know world was on lockdown until getting to Everest base camp
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Alleged Everest Faker Set to Receive The Highest Indian Adventure Sports Honor
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Nepal records season's first summit of 8000-metre peak as climbers scale Mt Annapurna
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Himalayas seen for first time in decades from 125 miles away after pollution drop
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Mystery on Everest: did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit in 1924?
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Woman climber Tsang Yin Hung sets world record for fastest Everest climb
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As Himalayas Warm, Nepal’s Climate Migrants Struggle to Survive
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Search and Rescue Groups Urge People to Stop Climbing Cabinetry During Pandemic
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First Summit of 2020 in Nepal, Death and Rescue in Pakistan
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Malaysian climber missing on Mt Annapurna
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Open, Opening or Closed: Adventure Destinations in the Summer of COVID
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'Too dangerous': Calls for Switzerland’s Matterhorn to be closed to climbers
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Nepal Closes All Mountains, Including Everest
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Updated: K2 and Nanga Parbat Action is On!
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Hurricane Heading for Winter K2
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‘Green Boots’: The Most Famous Body on Mt Everest
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Experienced Scots Climber Named Among Those Killed in Avalanche in the Himalayas
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Breaking: Weather Forecast Changes for the Worse on K2
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Season’s First Casualty on Manaslu
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Freesoloist Austin Howell Dies in Fall
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Sister of tragic Scots climber makes heartbreaking pilgrimage to Himalayan peak where he died
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Karakorum: Great Weather, Early Successes
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Climber Emily Harrington rescued by ‘Free Solo’ star Alex Honnold after fall
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Tom Ballard and Daniel Nardi Missing on Nanga Parbat; Rescue Operation Underway
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Breaking: Wrecked Tent and Avalanche Debris Spotted on Nanga Parbat
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Brad Gobright: Free solo climber falls to his death
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Nanga Parbat: New Avalanche on Mummery Spur; Weather Hampers Rescue Effort
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Bodies of Seven Missing Climbers Recovered From the Himalayas
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The Climbers Who Survived a Week Stuck on Mount Rainier
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Carlos Soria leaves for Dhaulagiri; Sanu Sherpa to complete all 14 peaks
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Thousands raised for missing climbers
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Tributes to 'Incredible Mountaineer' Who Died During Ben Hope Climb
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Climber Rescued After Breaking Leg in Avalanche on Mount Snowdon
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Mountaineers find Soviet-era climber’s belongings at Mount Elbrus
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Rock climbers killed in suspected cliff fall in Flinders Ranges
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Everest climbers to face stricter rules after deadly season
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Romanian elite climber killed in Fagaras Mountains
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Running, at Age 72, from England to Nepal
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Tatra mountains: Five dead after lightning strike in Poland and Slovakia
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Slovenian who skied down Everest dies cutting wood
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Stone on Mt. Fuji became the cause of climber's death
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K2 Summit Push Aborted
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Sergi Mingote to Climb All 8000’ers Without O2 in 1,000 Days
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On K2, 120 Climbers Make Their Move
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Missing French Alps climber found 43 years later
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Global warming has made iconic Andean peak unrecognizable
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Winter K2 Preview: Between Mountain Excellence and Commercialization
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American Climber Dies from HAPE on Mt Ama Dablam
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Search called off for missing Himalayan climbers
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China Just Closed the North Side of Mount Everest
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Mount Fuji plans to start charging compulsory fee to climbers
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Nanda Devi: Helicopters Join Search For Eight Missing Climbers
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Gone but Not Forgotten: Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard
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Everest: Wind Forces Delay
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Dodging Avalanches, Simone Moro Abandons Manaslu
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Melting Mount Everest glaciers reveal dead climbers' bodies: report
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Denis Urubko Back in Base Camp After Surviving Avalanche
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Snowstorm Kills Five Korean and Four Nepali Climbers
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Bodies of 5 Missing Mountaineers Spotted Near Avalanche-hit Nanda Devi Peak
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Coronavirus fear rattles Everest climbing season
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Winter ends on Everest without an ascent
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Top mountain climber Andrew Vine missing for two days after avalanche
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Mountaineering’s Drug Problem
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Jared Leto recalls 'nearly' dying while rock climbing
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After Deadly Jam on Everest, Nepal Delays New Safety Rules
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Death toll upped to 38 as avalanche in Turkey wipes out rescue team
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Expedition aborts Broad Peak ascent at 7,650 metres
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95 Years Ago, Everest Was Just as Deadly but Much Less Crowded
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Six trekkers including 4 Koreans missing in avalanche in Annapurna region
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Swiss Climbers Slammed for Landing Plane Near Top of Mont Blanc
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Avalanche Strands 4 Italians, 3 Local Climbers in Pakistan
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Everest 2019: New Route Attempt
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Winter K2 Wins Again: It’s Over for Pivtsov’s Team
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Mount Everest summit attempt in winter to be first in 27 years if successful
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Scientists Find Warm Ice in World’s Highest Glacier
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Louis Vuitton Sells $1,590 Chalk Bag
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Sixty Years Later, Russia Is Still Trying to Figure Out What Killed These Hikers
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Breaking: Simone Moro Expedition Ends in Near-Fatal Crevasse Fall
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The Volcanic Seven Summits
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Bodies of Nardi and Ballard found on Pakistan's "Killer Mountain"
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Mount Everest mystery solved? Mallory’s oxygen tank ‘broken’ before summit climb
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Three Indian Climbers Make Fake Everest Summit Claim?
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Behind the scenes of the rescue of the last solo climber on Mount Logan
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4 Climbers Stranded on Treacherous Mount Rainier Route
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Jost Kobusch Waits Patiently for a Solid Window on Winter Everest
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